-
Posts
2,307 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Everything posted by Seaking
-
No worries, thanks for looking into it though.. Cheers
-
Stock exhaust modification
Seaking replied to daxim's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
they 'look' similar to the ones I had on before I put the Rineharts on.. if they are, you'll find them not overly loud but handsomely gruff sounding (hard to explain what a sound sounds like lol).. You'll need plate adapters available in the Classified section, $40 each and some coupling clamps if they are not available with the slipons. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=2199&title=yamaha-venture-exhaust-hd-conversion-mounting-plates&cat=7 VERY simple to install.. It only takes 20 minutes to swap pipes back and forth on this bike.. taking the saddle bags off makes a lot of difference.. -
Please do let us know if you discover anything.. Mine is out of warranty this month so I'm out of luck (US warranty bike in Canada).. I still have to have my front axle heli-coiled and the neck bearings replaced so I'm taking that opportunity to have the forks fully serviced. Its at that time I was thinking of having the Gold Emulators installed or Progressive springs. It makes for somewhat of a stiffer ride but a more sure-footed ride. I had Progressive springs installed on my V-Star and what a huge difference those made in the handling in corners and braking. Like night and day.. There are a lot of long sweeping curves around here that have humps and bumps in them and when you hit it the wrong way, you often wonder if you'll be tossed into the guard rails.. Its not something that will happen but it's that odd feeling you get when the front end does it's weird thing, ya know? Since the front end comes off for the neck bearings and axle fix, I might as well take that opportunity to improve my ride, no? But with which one, GE or PS? There are articles here of people doing both and enjoying either / or.. Cheers
-
Oddly enough I started noticing the same with my 06 but it might be contributed to the high heat we're experiencing lately. I'm having the front end serviced soon, and hope to install gold emulators which alleviate a lot of that dipping. I think the books recommends servicing the front shocks every two years... I doubt mine were ever done before I bought it in 08.. so it's due time to have it done.
-
clicking noise, 2nd gen.
Seaking replied to steamer's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Good question, but dollars to donuts is that they'll only 'guarantee' it if THEY install it at $70 an hour labour plus shop supplies..- 8 replies
-
- down.it
- electrical
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
clicking noise, 2nd gen.
Seaking replied to steamer's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Funny how a rear shock costs around the same price as a precision engineered pumpkin.. Someone's rolling in funny money.. at our expense- 8 replies
-
- down.it
- electrical
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Stock exhaust modification
Seaking replied to daxim's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
With the K&N and Rineharts I have a lot more low end torque than ever before.. quite noticeably so... -
Drilling Stock Mufflers
Seaking replied to Whitlow's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
bah, just get some $350 Rinehart slip ons and enjoy the sound.. -
Ahh the "Smoke" Theorem of Electricity test? If the smoke escapes, the device is broken and costs money to get all that smoke back into the device.. Usually the more smoke you allow to escape from an electrical or electronic device, the more it costs to get all that smoke back in there.. Usually it's cheaper to get a new device with it's smoke capacity still intact than trying to get all that smoke back into the faulty device.. Dunno why people carry on about voltage and amps and current when it's all about the smoke and trying to keep it from escaping from the devices.. Don't believe me? Try it out yourself..
-
Aww balls.. here's what I found after a lot of searching tonight.. (from the Barnett site) Q: How come my Barnett clutch plates did not come with specific installation instructions? A: It is not possible to include instructions for every motorcycle or ATV made and many clutch plates fit a wide variety of models. We strongly recommend that you refer to the factory service manual for assembly order and torque specs. In most applications, Barnett plates and springs are a direct replacement for the OEM plates and springs and will install in the same manner. In special applications, instructions will be included. So the Venture book says 5.8 ft / lbs and stoopid me did them up at 8 ft/lbs.. based on an article I found on here, for a V-Max.. New bolts for bonzo in the morning, if I can find them.. Thanks for the heads up Goose, coulda been catastrophic...
- 12 replies
-
- clutch
- configuration
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Ok now you're scaring me... I got the torque value from here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=491 Luckily I didn't go anywhere with the bike tonight.. the bolts are new from Barnett, not the stock bolts. 8 ft/lbs isn't a whole lot, I use 1/4" drive tool to avoid heavy handedness and when I bolted them up at first, even THAT was more than 8 ft / lbs torque, so I had to loosen them off and start over again with the torque wrench.. (big hands) I cannot find anywhere any proper torque values for the Barnett set up other than at one article.. and a couple of other references where others installed the kit and used the 8 lbs/ft torque value.. ergh.. Thanks for the heads up though
- 12 replies
-
- clutch
- configuration
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Ok.. so I just got back from a test ride on the bike after your helpful and insightful assistance, gents.. The reservoir fluid level was VERY low.. down to the bottom of the glass when the bike is on the kick stand and bars to the far left .. I topped it up with DOT4 fluid and put the cover back on.. pulled the lever a couple of times and well, it felt just a little better. I put the bike in neutral and started the bike.. aimed the bike out the door (just in case) and dropped it in first gear with the lever pulled in and wow, when I started to release the lever the clutch kicked in hard and tried to pull the bike away.. Previously on the PCW clutch mod, the friction zone was way out to the release end of the lever travel.. Now it back to the 'almost all pulled in end' of lever travel.. A little go and stop testing and looks like what ever was the problem is gone.. the lever is firm again, doesn't feel like it has air in it.. and a ride up and down the street up to 3rd gear certainly feels great.. the friction zone back to opposite to what it was with the PCW mod. I think I have everything back together properly, the plate is torqued in at 96 in/lbs (8 ft/lbs) which is the only torque I could find anywhere.. which isn't a lot..? Should these bolts be red lock tited in? I'll give it a ride tomorrow and see how it all feels in slow and 'drop the hammer time' mode.. Hopefully this will be the last time I have to play with my clutch and I can leave it well alone from now on.. Thanks to all those who were able to assist me with this again, I would still be out there pulling some hairs lol.. Cheers
- 12 replies
-
- clutch
- configuration
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hmmm the first time I pulled the clutch lever in is when I discovered I didn't have the plate on properly and had to unbolt and rotate the plate until it was properly seated.. I looked into the sigh glass and the level is way down to the bottom of the glass.. Now you said "Hopefully you did not depress the clutch lever while the clutch was apart" I did not but what happens if you do? Unfortunately, with the plate not properly seated there was a larger gap.. Air in the system?
- 12 replies
-
- clutch
- configuration
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Thanks Goose, yes, there is a hole for the two ends to go into and a slight grove for the wire to fit into.. the wire has to go in there otherwise the two ends won't meet up to go into the hole.. I got everything together and bam... a dead clutch lever.. ouch.. I took everything apart and made sure the barnett plate was on properly (has to be matched with some notches etc) and a proper stackup of discs and all.. but dang.. no pressure at the clutch lever. Am I correct to assume that the OEM stackup now requires more brake fluid in the clutch reservoir?
- 12 replies
-
- clutch
- configuration
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hey guys, when installing new clutch parts, the wire ring holding the half friction, half disc and half spring plate, how does this fit in or how is it installed? I took out these half parts when I had done the PCW mod and now reverting the bike back to the original configuration but now I can't remember how this is supposed to fit in? Anyone able to shed some light as to what or how this goes together again? Desperate to get info tonight! Thanks in advance!
- 12 replies
-
- clutch
- configuration
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Front and rear tire removal
Seaking replied to jeff2053's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Goose had shown me how to change a rear tire on my bike when I was down there visiting him in May/June this year.. I had never actually seen anyone do this 'manually' and yeah, HE makes it look simple enough if you have all the right tools which after 3 tire changes makes it cost effective.. however, I think that like you, I'll toss my extra into the economy and have them do it for me.. But Goose had taught me what to look for when having the shop do my tires to ensure it's done properly, like scraping the rim of old tire residue and such.. What I thought was really interesting was watching Goose 'hand balance' the tire.. I have to admit I was a little dubious of this being a precise method of doing it but the wheel felt fine during the trip home. I had to remove the wheel for something not too long after I got home and out of curiosity took the wheel to the local shop I deal with and asked them to check the balance.. just out of curiosity.. and how about that.. no changes required.. Dang, that guy is good And the tire has been doing fine ever since Texas. Thanks again Goose! -
I'm starting to wonder if changing out the half disk to a full disc might actually contribute to some of the problems I had with the PCW setup. I'm currently the Barnett with full disc and just being lazy about changing it back to the half disc set up again.. when looking at the parts, I'm wondering if that small spring plate actually does more for the stack up than be funny looking, ya know? I don't think I'd risk another burnt out clutch with another course, as I did the last two times but as long as it keeps pulling, no worries.
-
yeah once you get that slip feeling it sucks.. I almost bought the farm when I did or 'tried' to do an emergency evasive move by dropping the hammer to get out of harms way (or slam on the brakes and be part of the pile up) Luckily for me the car behind me had better brakes than I had clutch and was able to avoid hitting me when the clutch failed. scary I started with the PCW and full discs, and now to the Barnett springs and soon back to the half discs which should bring my lever movement back to where it was before.. (longer friction zone) Nothing wrong with the PCW set up as far as I can tell.. but after burning out two clutches it's now time to try the other guy.. and so far so good.
-
Many thanks! a picture is worth 1,000 words The springs shown replace the spring plate on other version.. Should be simple enough.. Thanks again
-
How do I identify a bad ignition coil?
Seaking replied to Tartan Terror's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
They look a lot like the connectors on the HID light systems installed on the bike.. Cool. -
I found a major source of frame and bar buzz on my bike which turned out to be the passenger floorboards. When the boards are in the upright stowed position, you can move them side to side freely before hitting the spring stops.. "loose" is quite accurate. I jammed some soft wood between the mounts and the pivot end of the floorboards to seize them up while in the upright position and yep.. what a huge difference. I took one apart to confirm that yes, the ball and spring were present and reassembled it but its very loose.. Is there a more permanent / proper way to tighten these up other than jamming a stick of wood like i have? You can't see the wood, I seldom ride with passengers.. but would like to sort this out somehow.. Anyone else experience something similar?
- 2 replies
-
- floorboards
- loose
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
Thanks M8.. I checked the Barnett site and they have instructions but no pictures.. I'm the kind of guy that likes to 'see' what to expect lol. But everything else is familiar to me. I'll let you know how it goes..
-
Another bad fuel pump?
Seaking replied to sldunker's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
They might 'look' fine when they are not.. I change mine out on spec each year.. After what all *I* went through last summer, I have no probs changing it often lol if nothing more than the peace of mind. -
Before I pull the clutch cover off my bike to redo the clutch plates, I've misplaced the instruction sheets for the Barnett spring kit that the shop installed for me after the last clutch burn out.. I haven't seen one of these before on a bike, so not sure what to expect and of course would like to avoid as much down time as possible.. Is it another big plate held down by 6 bolts with an 8 lbs torque? Or is there a little more to it than that? Thanks in advance.. hoping to get this done today whilst it's raining..