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Seaking

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Everything posted by Seaking

  1. Seaking
    Well basically what Jack said.. I took the course twice and burnt the clutch out twice.. I've heard of similar stories from other RSV riders, but then again I hear stories of others doing the "Ride Like A Pro" course itself without any ill effects. There is nothing wrong with the bike.. first time I had Rotella oil in the bike, the second time I had Yamalube. And the clutch system is fine, nothing wrong with it. It doesn't like the abuse of slow riding for extended periods of time. face it, it's a 900 lbs bike with a lot of rider on top doing to the bike what it really isn't designed to do. I just find it funny when I teach the course and get to the part of explaining the clutch and friction zone how you 'cant burn out a wet clutch on a motorcycle'.. kinda ironic.
  2. Seaking
    When you look at the parts listing, it shows it as you describe, but when you look at the servicing manual, it's not quite 'right' as you describe it.. the servicing manual seems to be missing the thin disc before the spring plate.. Thanks for the heads up
  3. Seaking
    I've done that before.. I've actually had to ask my buddy to bring HIS bike over to use as a reference guide.. to take apart and put back together again lol.. egads.. I hate when THAT happens.. lol
  4. Seaking
    I've had my Rineharts on for a little while now and the tips are starting to show a different colour than the original black.. I don't think it looks 'bad' but they probably haven't finished changing colour yet lol..
  5. Seaking
    hi guys, after the problems I've had with my clutch (twice this year I burnt it out during Advanced Rider courses), I've decided to go back to stock configuration and dropping the PCW mod I had in it since last year. I have a Barnett Spring kit in it now, but with still the full disc stack up as per the PCW mod only because I could not find my original half discs. So I ordered new ones.. But I can't seem to figure out how this goes back together. Once I pull off each plate (friction and steel) its the set up for the half plates I'm not seeing properly in the diagrams for some reason.. I believe I have all the correct parts now.. and some spares.. I have these parts 26H-1632101 (half size friction plate) 26H-16384-00 (small steel disc) 1Fk-16383-00 (small steel spring plate..) and the small spring clip, 26h-16385-00 From what I can see in the parts diagram, the flat plate goes in first then the spring plate, the friction plate fits OVER these (as it is larger in circumference) and the plates get held in by the spring clip. But which way does the spring plate go in? does the larger edge go against the back of the basket or towards the front? I'm not sure on this one or if it makes a difference.. Luckily, i ended up with three extra clutch cover gaskets =) Thanks in advance! ADDENDUM: Oops, MY BAD, it actually says on the spring plate OUT SIDE, to show which side of the plate should face the clutch cover.. silly me.. Cheers
  6. Seaking
    "L A C" slipons.. the look a likes to the Rineharts? Friend of mine has them on his RSV and they sound nice.. I have the black ceramic coated Rineharts on mine.. sounds great
  7. Seaking
    gees, I was there in May and June this summer.. and you call them 'rough'?! We thought those were darn decent roads lol.. You should try ours up here in Nova Scotia.. Thanks for the info.. I'll be checking them out.. Cheers
  8. Seaking
    well, it sounds similar to what I had problems with in the pump last summer.. Here's something to look at as well.. (this is what happened to me, hard lesson learned) My fuel filter was soooo badly clogged that it would starve the engine when the fuel level got down to a certain amount, felt like I had reached reserve but there was more than that amount of fuel in the tank. The bike would stumble like it had reach reserve and then die. But if I added more fuel to the tank it would run properly again.. SO ODD to say the least.. Well, by the time I got to the fuel filter, we figured out that the 'head pressure' of a lot of fuel in the tank was assisting the fuel pump in sucking fuel past that dirty fuel filter but only after until it reached that critical level where head pressure would no longer help the pump. A new clean fuel filter fixed that problem. Unfortunately, it also weakened my fuel pump so badly that a month or two later, while 5,000 miles away from home, the fuel pump up and died.. But it was dying a little at a time the week before we left but couldn't figure out the what who or why the bike was dying. All diagnostic checks saw the pump as 'fine' but that's because it would heat up enough to lose electrical contacts and the pump would shut off while it was hot. The dirty fuel filter over-worked the fuel pump so badly that it prematurely caused it to die.. Luckily for me I had a good friend help me out while in PA, (thanks SkyDoc) and the shop, try as they may after 5 days, could not find the fix but I ended up with over $3000 worth of free parts changed on the bike.. Then we took the bike to another city and the tech there found the problem within 30 minutes. The pump hadn't completely died at the first shop so it tested fine with them.. So strange a problem.. But now I change my fuel filter once a year.. There is a quick way to check if your fuel pump has failed, as the clicking noise isn't always heard even when the pump is 100% serviceable. best of luck.. dunno if anything I said pertains to what ails your bike.. but ya never know..
  9. Seaking
    Hi guys, I got the problem sorted out today and a many thanks to those with many great recommended troubleshooting.. As some suspected, it was the battery connection that was loose.. And not by much! I took the bike out yesterday and today and had the problem duplicate itself a couple of times.. Nice hot dry day and yep, the bike would balk out on a start... So last night I took a lot of panels off and checked more carefully for arcing, burnt wires, anything that might suggest something being amiss.. Wasn't till I was putting the seat back on that I gave the battery leads one more tug and voila.. one of the cables was loose enough to swing it side to side.. You wouldn't think it would cause so much trouble and it only took a little minute about of turn on the screw driver to seat the screw back down tight. Today, again a nice day, more humid.. and not one balked start or hiccup. Impressive.. So if this doesn't happen again, I will have to say it was that slightly loose wire. And a BONUS is that because I was hunting down for loose or broken stuff on the bike, I did find a major cause to hand buzz and was able to fix that as well.. Goes to show that a once in a while fine tooth combing does go a loooong way lol My Passenger floorboards are very loose in their mounts for some reason and by jamming a small piece of wood at the pivot point secures them enough to smooth out a lot of the left over vibes on the bike.. I'll have to find a way how to secure them up better.. Or take them off and stuff them in the bags.. (I ride solo so much)
  10. Seaking
    Nice, thanks for the additional info.. where's the best price spot to purchase these from? Are the roads rough and choppy where you are or are they mostly nice smooth slabs or decent pavement?
  11. Seaking
    Ahh sweet to hear.. I have to get my forks serviced this fall at the same time as re-doing the axle threads (previous article mentioned that someone munged the axle threads on the fork requiring to have it heli coiled. So at the same time I might as well have the forks serviced.. and add some fun to them Cheers
  12. Seaking
    I recall wanting to do the gol emulators on my VStar and many had recommended not to use them on a cruiser / touring bike as you would find them to be harsher on the bumps than stock.. I know, sounds counter intuitive to what they are supposed to do.. I did end up putting Progressive Springs in the VStar and that alone made a wold of difference.. However, I'd love to hear how these work out on our large bikes, though..
  13. Seaking
    Using the rear brakes on this big bike, especially when slow maneuvering is essential.. I do a lot of rear brake dragging when negotiating slow speed areas and such.. much easier to handle the bike..
  14. Seaking
    I swapped my pads to HH Sintered (sp) and they are lasting a heck of a lot longer than I had expected. I do roughly 30,000 miles (48,000 kms) a year on the bike and I'm at around 25,000 miles on the pads now. I recently did a road trip and crawled under / over the bike to have a proper look at the pads and I was surprised to see that the rear pads were wearing evenly.. As we all know, the inside pad typically wears down much sooner than the outside pad but not in this case. I still have a lot of brake pads left in front and back. I'm not shy about using the brakes on this big bike.. so these HH sintered pads are getting a good work out, and they are lasting a nice long time.
  15. Seaking
    Hmm I spent $300 on my Rinehart pipes, I might need to spend that much more to get nicer tunes from the radio lol..
  16. Seaking
    Hmmm "sounds" interesting.. wonders how much cost?
  17. Seaking
    Thanks Beav, I remember that posting.. but I couldn't jog my memory as to what it was etc.. I'll have a look at those items tomorrow.. Sweeet
  18. Seaking
    Ahh very interesting all of this.. I'll pull the seat and have a boo under there at the battery and see what's what.. I suspected water had a lot to do with the initial problem as the bike got a good drenching sitting in the driveway during the rain, but the next morning the roads were dry and it was sunny out.. Thanks guys
  19. Seaking
    now this was scary this morning.. I had been away visiting family yesterday and had to leave the bike out in the heavy rains overnight.. because I have a dodgy ignition key slot cover, I put electrical tape over the hole where the key goes in to prevent it from flooding.. This morning, I go to the bike and go to start it: Key goes in, turn key, electricals come on as normal and with the bike in neutral, I hit the starter and the engine turns once to what feels like to a full compression then stops.. Another press of the starter button and the bike starts normally, runs normally and all is good. That 'stop at compression' thing happens every once in a while, not sure what causes it or what it means but it doesn't seem to cause any harm.. 10 minutes later I'm leaving and pull into a gas station for a fill up.. This time when I go to start the bike, I get that odd 'cranking over to full compression stop' but now all the electricals are out.. ooops!! Turn the key full to the right, red switch ON, no headlight, no radio, no instrumentation, nothing.. wow, its like the battery got disconnected.. no smell of arching or burnt wires, check the ignition fuse and it's good. huh? Nothing.. I move the bike out of the way of the pumps and try it again.. nothing.. nothing. No juice.. ouch.. I'm 500 km away from home and prolly 5000 kms from a decent Yamaha dealership that could help me out.. I cycle the kick stand a few times, remembering something in an article about this.. not sure though.. I wait 10 minutes while chatting with someone about how nice my 'harley' looks etc.. huh.. And then the bike starts as if nothing was wrong.. Mind you, the radio has to have it's channels reset and the trip odo went to full odo as if the bike had it's battery disconnected. So odd! The bike ran well and well, I decided I had better head for home. Luckily for me I had a spare key on the bike so when I had to do fuel stops, I left the ignition "on" with the key but killed the engine with the red switch, used the spare key to open the gas cap.. I was leery of wanting to turn off the ignition switch with the key in case I could no longer get juice through the system again like it did earlier this morning. When I got home, I shut the bike off via key and turned it back on.. every thing is back to normal as if nothing wrong ever happened this morning.. I've been back out several times this evening to see if I could duplicate the error but nothing.. it's all good.. (knock on wood).. So the question is "what happened this morning" ?? Will it happen again? I'm worried this is going to develop into an intermittent problem like my fuel pump did to me last summer.. it would fail every so often but never enough to be properly diagnosed until it finally died the big death.. I'm thinking I will soon need to replace the whole ignition switch (where the key goes in) since the spring loaded slot cover doesn't slide over anymore.. Does anyone have any ideas or comments on what happened or what I should do? $136 for a new switch..
  20. Seaking
    The problem I have with my stock bars is just the grip 'angle'.. I feel I need my hands turned outwards more.. will the RSTD bar do this for me or is it the same angle but a wider / longer bar?
  21. Seaking
    Hmm wondering if you could even use K&M Chubbies.. fully exposed filters, mind you but interesting all the same.. lol..
  22. Seaking
    You're welcome, them being a Canuck Company, easy to deal with.. =)
  23. Seaking
    Hi guys, silly question for you knowledgeable types out there.. Is the FireStick II CB antenna compatible with the mod on the bike? I can't find the reference but it's the one where you remove the OEM antennas and replace them with Firesticks.. On our recent road trip, I had been experiencing weird vibes on the bike, in the grips, floorboards etc... and poof, the vibes went away.. so did my CB antenna.. croid, the vibes were from the antenna coming loose in it's mount.. groan. While in the US, I picked up an inexpensive FireStick II CB antenna to plug the hole with.. This antenna is thicker and less flexible than the other ones and has a red cap vice a black one. Is this OK to use, or will it cause any probs? I don't use comms often on the bike, but would sometimes listen in on CB for reports and such.. I didn't get a chance to try out the new antenna yet.. Any ideas?
  24. Seaking
    A few people were asking me how I like the new black ceramic Rinehart pipes on my bike after a week or so, so I have a good report to shed some light on how they sound, etc. The pipes mentioned in http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51473 sound quite nice. I'm able to get out of the neighbourhood quietly enough without setting off alarms or waking up babies.. They have a nice rumble, the have a nice bark when you drop the hammer. And they cruise very well. My buddy and I did a 1300 mile trip to Mount Washington again, just for some video footage. We did the I95 doing highway speeds of 80+ mph (and we were being passed all the time.. wow) and some of the back roads from the I95 into NH and White Mountain range.. Very interesting results for performance and fuel mileage. Doing highway speeds, the noise is loud enough you'd want to wear earplugs. I wear then when highway traveling anyway to protect against wind noise so this isn't a big deal for me. The more load on the engine at highway speeds, as in head winds or hill climbing for example, the louder they will be. But when you're cruising nicely with little or no load, the pipes have this nice hum to them. As with most RSV, the faster you go, the more head winds you encounter, the worse your fuel mileage gets and compared to the trip we did in May-June with the other pipes, my highway mileage was about the same, very sucky lol. With speeds in the 80+ we got as bad as 35 mpg, which isn't bad considering, but averaged out around 38 mpg which is the norm for my bike. But it's when we hit the back roads doing 40, 50 and 60 mph that the mileage got interesting.. With the Rineharts on the bike, the bike feels to have a lot more torque than ever before. Whereas at higher gears and lower revs, you can open the throttle a little more and feel it pull more instead of having to open the throttle a whole lot before feeling any pull but you've dumped so much fuel for so little gain, your mileage would suck. However with the Rineharts, it actually pulls with little throttle applied. Very nice. On the flats I could cruise 50 mph in 5th around 2500 rpm, and when encountering a slight incline, a little more throttle would climb the hill and settle down nicely. If you've done the back roads between Maine and NH you'll appreciate how much nicer this was not having to shift down and up all the time. Again to emphasize, this is without lugging or chugging the engine.. Nice. The sound and noise level on the back roads is very tame and satisfying! A nice mellow deep tone which wasn't hard on the ears at all. I ride the back roads without ear plugs and the radio tunes coming out at volume 17.. typically at highway I would have it up to 21. When you climb hills and such, you get the barking of the pipes but it's not abrasive on the ears. Bottom line for "this" rider: Love the sound, love the performance.. the price was right, they look great on this bike, they sound smooth and mellow and give that satisfying bark when you drop the hammer.. I love it when someone comments "Now THAT's what a Harley should sound like" not realizing it's a Yamaha, and I reply.. "yes, you're right, this IS what a Harley should sound like, thanks!".. and ride away.. hehe (as a note, my buddy rode with my Larossa pipes on his bike and I could hear him behind me.. drowned out my tunes!! lol.. )
  25. Seaking
    I too like having a separate clock and not have to hit the toggle switch to swap displays on the panel, one more thing you don't have to take your eyes off the road for. I also gave up on my thermometer as well since I couldn't find a proper place to mount it that would give me a proper reading and not gain degrees from either the pipes, engine or what ever.. Mounted on the handlebars, you get engine heat coming up the between the tank and fairing.. For some odd reason no matter where I mount mine or what the outside air temp is, its always 80'F outside.. even though the darn thing calibrates correctly according to the manufacturer's guide.. So right now it's another shiny object on the bike..
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