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Condor

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Everything posted by Condor

  1. For narrow gapped slivers the Permatex should work just fine, but for filling big voids in the fairing I'd suggest using IPS #16 and glass matting to create a backing on the inside and then filling the void from the outside. The bottle in the pics is another IPS product called ABS Weld-on 2354 that's used to weld the spider cracks in ABS, and does a great job! They're basically the same thing, but the #16 is a heavier viscosity. Attached are a few pics of the job I had to do on the trunk of the '91. Just wet the surface out with the 16 and lay the glass over the hole, and then wet out the matting. #16 is designed to chemically melt the ABS and the matting will actually bond into the surface. To fill the void on the outside I used PC7 2-part epoxy. I wasn't to happy with the consistancy of the mix, tough to work with, so the permatex may be a better product. Anyway I failed to take pics of the end result, but the repair is very strong, and after sanding and shoting with Krylon Semi-flat Black, it's looks very nice even if it is on the underside of the trunk...
  2. I'll let you know Brad. However I'm not looking for a hot rod. The '91's a beast and set up to pull a trailer. With my butt in the saddle I thought it might be interesting to give it a little more low-end grunt. Besides the price was right....
  3. I've never had one of the AD's off to take a look at it, but it doesn't make sense that there's a weep hole without an 'O' ring seal between the surfaces to keep it from leaking. An air hole maybe, if it's got one of those accordian bladders internally that keep air and moisture away from the fluid like those in the master cylinder gaskets?? Like I said I've never been face to face with one.. Interesting.....
  4. The top of the engine is as dry as a bone, and clean as a whistle , and I took a look as best I can around the shift linkage shafts while I had the middle cover off, and they looked clean too. But.... the bottom of the pan is a mess. From the amount leakage, and the look of the pan, I'm wondering if the pan itself isn't leaking or maybe have a crack in it??? The only way I'll be able to tell is to pull the collector off and I'm not looking forward to it. Love that layered technology...
  5. Thanks for the offer Brian, but #1 you're on vacation, and #2 I'm still chasing that dang oil leak in the '91. Thought I'd found it, but no dice.... So until I find the source, the '91 will sit.
  6. I just picked up that V-Max final on Ebay. Thinking about installing it in the '91... once I get that oil leak plugged.... Should be interesting....
  7. Well guys, I had everything crossed including my eyes, and it's still leaking. Dang!! I guess the next step is to pull the collector and take a visual up there. I hope I can find the time to get it done before VWIV. Otherwise Old Faithful will have to come to the rescue again....
  8. The cure exists.... Use the switch every time you turn off the engine. Keeps the contacts clean and corrosion free. You know what they say. "Use it or Lose It"
  9. Wish you luck finding one. I see them show up on Ebay barefoot occassionally, but not very often. Mostly they come along for the ride with a controller. Actually that might be the best way to pick one up?? New they're $110 bucks. Buy one off Ebay and take the board off, turn around and relist the controller....
  10. '84's have a different CLASS panel then the '86's
  11. Robert, what weep hole??? Need more info....
  12. I agree Brad. With the price of fuel getting higher there are a lot more motorcycles on the road, and it's only gonna get worse. Unless a miracle occurs, and the prices fall back down to $1.50-$2.00 bucks per, 2 wheel transportation is going to be a very big part of our lifestyles in the future.
  13. I'd check the easy things first... the power and control plugs. Unplug and plug them several times and see if things clear up. If that doesn't work then like Bob says it's a resolder job. Not really that hard. The CLASS control can be disassembled very quickly. The points that need to be resoldered are the connections to the power wires and those between the PCboards.
  14. Now that's an age-ist remark if I ever heard it....... Some time lemme tell you about my 8 kids, 19 GK's, and 6GGK's...... when I can remember their names.....
  15. What's wrong with the one you have now?
  16. That'd be my guess too.... I had the same problem. Solved it by taking a small wire hook and lifted on the diaphragm. Don't know if I got it completely folded back up, but moved it enough that the sensor started...er.. maybe stoped... working....
  17. Are you getting any Error codes, or is it just a blank screen? Also, did it ever work or this a new2U bike?
  18. http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/bolts/roundcountersunkcollage.gif Material TypeSteelBolt TypeRound Countersunk Head (Plow) BoltsSystem of MeasurementInchSpecifications MetSociety of Automotive Engineers (SAE )SAE SpecificationSAE J429 http://www.mcmaster.com/ Under specialty bolts
  19. Heel up quick Boomer....
  20. OK Buddy...your trunk is built better than a Harley. There...feel better???
  21. Check with Lone Eagle about doing a Harley trunk. If I had a choice I'd do the Harley. A lot bigger than the OEM RSV. And better built.
  22. Gonna have to give that stuff a try.....
  23. How in the world did you do that?? I'd check and make sure there isn't more damaged than just the screw..... Maybe replace the whole assembly off a used set??? You can find 'ugly' carb sets on Ebay for $40-$50 bucks if it comes to that.
  24. Too bad you're stuck on the East Coast. It's gonna be tough excaping the humidity, winters, or heat. But if you do Prescott AZ might be a consideration. Mild winters, mild summers...yeah I know it's in Az, but it's up in the mountains..., and low humidity. Here's a weather read out. http://www.wrcc.dri.edu/cgi-bin/cliMAIN.pl?azpres
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