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mbrood

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Everything posted by mbrood

  1. mbrood
    After reviewing actual cables from other bikes, I'm satisfied that Yamaha uses the below pinout and will be revising my MP3 adapter drawing. The physical connections will still be the same but the pin number assignments will change to reflect the Yamaha cable. If anybody figures out what 1, 4 and 8 are for, please let me know. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/radio tray.jpg
  2. mbrood
    I believe you will find Clorox works as an excellent deicer... handy and priced right.
  3. mbrood
    Does anybody have their radio amp out so we can put to bed the correct pinout for the cassette cable? Pin orientation seems to vary, manufcturer to manufacturer and all we REALLY want to know is what Yamaha used and THAT pinout.
  4. mbrood
    There's a couple ways to inject audio, using the original cassette cable... The earlier schematic assumes no casstte and you can see that opening the jumper between pins 1 and 7 tells the amp to switch to "cassette" source. Or you can have both cassette and external source... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/audio.jpg
  5. mbrood
    There's a couple ways to inject audio, using the original cassette cable... The earlier schematic assumes no casstte and you can see that opening the jumper between pins 1 and 7 tells the amp to switch to "cassette" source. Or you can have both cassette and external source... http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/audio.jpg
  6. mbrood
    I was told that this orientation works fine... tight, but it fits... (note the pressure sensor also relocated). http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/tci.jpg
  7. mbrood
    I look at the back of my bike and see a state license plate... figure that entitles me to a spot. Plus, these aren't 250s that hide in a corner! If there's a designated bike area... ok. And being a smaller guy and not so friendly with spaces sloped down to the divider, so I have to struggle to back her out... I often opt for the back country where I can pull "through" and be pointing "out"... sooooo much easier! But that's just me... do the same with my Norton which isn't nearly so big. I know some non-bikers see "all that space" on either side of my bike and moan... but I also see those wide pickups and SUVs that eat up the territory and just figure "we all have to get along as best we can with each other".
  8. mbrood
    My 86 has a "slight rubbing" (the tire was resistive in spots) when I lifted and spun the front tire. Thinking it was a hanging brake, I pulled the calipers and tried again... same resistance. I pulled the axle and when rolled across the kitchen counter it showed it was bent! New axle, no rubbing. Just a thought.
  9. mbrood
    I did a write up for the tech section... [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54]Carb Overhaul on 1st Gen - VentureRider.Org[/ame] On a later set, I pullled everything off the carb bodies and took the carb bodies, the jet blocks and all of the jets to a local "auto speed shop" that sent them through an ultra-sonic acid bath for about $20... he threw my parts in with another "batch"... and they came back MUCH cleaner... and the ultra-sonic works at those small inner passages of the carb body better than anything else... I DID have to call around for pricing on the ultra-sonic service... most shops wanted $80-$120... then I tried some "speed shops"... wow, what a difference in price and attitude! With the current economy, call around!!!
  10. mbrood
    Although it's a bit tedious, it's best to kill the circuit breaker to the fan and remove the switch. If it's not hooked up with wire nuts, just cut the wires midway but MARK them if it's more than a simple on-off switch (most are 4 way... off-lo-med-hi... Then take it down to the hardware store and have them get you the replacement... along with the correct wire nuts if required. They are all 120v.
  11. mbrood
    Thanks Gary, that's a great "fix"... and thanks Randy for the "path"...
  12. mbrood
    There have been a few guys that experienced erratic performance of the pickup coils under heat. Replacement cured it for them but they did some extensive tests to track it down. Are you sure you're not running lean? That can produce the "gabbing" sensation and needs addressed immediately... although this effect would also be felt when holding the thottle steady. The coils are securely bolted to the left side cover, two assemblies... two pickups per. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/alternator.jpg
  13. mbrood

    Hot Muffler???

    mbrood replied to Evan's topic in Watering Hole

    With the collector, there should be equal distribution of exhaust to each pipe. I would feel at the right pipe to see if it's blocked (causing all exhaust out the left). Blueing of the muffler is a definite indication of problems. I would FIRST pull the plugs and see what they tell you about the individual cylinders! If possible, I always run a cylinder compression check to tell me what's the "baseline".
  14. mbrood
    While we think about friends and loved ones... please take a moment to give thanks to our veterans, active and past, that have helped us maintain this wonderful life. If you go to this web site, www.LetsSayThanks.com you can pick out a "thank you" card and Xerox will print it and it will be sent to a soldier that is currently serving overseas. You can't pick out who gets it, but it will go to a member of the armed services. How AMAZING it would be if we could get everyone we know to send one!!! This is a great site. Please send a card. It is FREE and it only takes a second.
  15. mbrood
    I use a remote... it velcor hooks where ever you want and the buttons are friendly... http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/pnmtraders/EB2007S004_026A.jpg Try ebay and search for airclick... these are discontinued from the manufacturer and you'll need to buy a new battery (about $3 @ WalMart) but it works like a champ.
  16. mbrood
    Yep, the two pin connector goes to the condensor mounted on the frame cross-rail where the carb overflow lines go.
  17. mbrood
    Starter brushes pass a LOT of current so the "electrical smell" is fairly normal. Have you checked the ground link inside the starter? Unless the magnets have baked or broke, most of these problems can be traced to the brushes, bushings or brush plate grounding problems. Have you checked the brush plate ground point? There were a couple mentions of this repair but I'll be darned if I find them easily... I still think the extra "capacity" of the car battery pointed to resistance in the starter system... brushes, bushings or brush plate grounding.
  18. mbrood
    First, put a jumper cable between the battery ground and the starter bolt (checks for bad ground... The starter has an internal ground on the brush plate that has been found to be faulty or frail and needed replaced. A "giant" car battery probably provides enough current to overcome this resistance. That's where "I" would look. A starter under no load means absolutely nothing... The starter clutch WILL only spin free in one direction...
  19. mbrood
    If you look under the cover for these fuses you will see a list of what they are for. From right to left: Hazard 15A Fan 10A Audio CB 5A Back up 5A
  20. mbrood
    Motel 6... not always the best in town but always pet friendly!
  21. mbrood
    My wife signed up for something like that... just "visit" a few sites and "you too" can get extreme discounts... her e-mail went from 10 or 11 a day to 250 or more... It convinced her to get a spam buster though... I prefer mailwasher...
  22. mbrood
    Shale oil is in pretty good abundance but it's only recent technology that figured out how to efficiently extract it (steam it out?) and Canada has a vast expanse of it just laying on the surface! Open surface mining is terribly easy. Rather see money go to Canada. But the USA also has vast deposits of shale oil and it's SLOWLY being developed.
  23. mbrood
    As these switches are rather sealed, you would have to spray around the plunger shaft and work it... but it's almost easier to just replace them. You can use an Ohm meter and see which ones don't show a short when depressed... and replace those. Most TV and radio repair shops will have handfulls of these switches, again, you want to match the plunger height.
  24. mbrood
    For the noise sensing mic cover, I glued in a thinned piece of wet suit material and it works fine... and still water resistant
  25. mbrood
    Also, be VERY careful with the allen bolts on the clutch slave unit... they are WAY recessed and the previous owner rounded out one of them... There was only one solution... an extractor that grabbed the outside of the head... http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952160000P?keyword=damaged+bolt+remover http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/9990000031818111?
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