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Showing results for tags 'water'.
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On a 2nd Gen RSV, how do you know if the water pump is circulating the coolant? Also, when should the radiator fan kick on?
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OK need some input here.... Being the only mechanic right now I'm kinda pushed to the limits working on Street - water - PD -FD - Comm.labor - sewer - meter reading vech...if you know what I mean:headache: Anyway 03 Ford E350 5.4L mtr A\C system..Front & rear air R\R A\C comp. Rec.dryer orfice tube expanison valve basic A\C kit... Flush system Pulled vacuum 1hr oil charge & Freon system full R\R radiator Clutch fan weak not pulling enough air Gauge reading low side reading - needle steady 50 - 60 high side reading 350- 450 even higher - needle jumping system running high on both sides? not cooling at all when having these high reading? getting plenty of air flow across the rad. system heat gun reading radiator 175-180F Condensioner 155-160F engine 196F when I run water across the rad. & con the system comes back down to these readings low 40-50 high 200-250 A\C system starts working fine for a short while and then climbs back up? So what am I over looking or missing here.. Input please........
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And it has me concerned. We went out for a day trip to Whistler, BC. Nice place if you've ever get the chance. Making a couple stops I noticed a wet spot after backing out of a parking spot. Not a little amount of clear liquid. I didn't examine it any more than to look at it from the back of the machine. But it looked like water. Kinda like when an air conditioner leaks under a car on hot days. It seems to have stopped now...but it has me worried! Should I be?
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It has been raining like I have never seen it rain. For over an hour it has been raining at 1 inch every 10 minutes, with 36 more hours of rain in the forecast. The sewer and drainage systems were not designed for this kind of rain. My basement has a river coming in. The basement does not leak, the water has overflowed the back door and is running down the steps. There is nothing that I can do to stop it. My house was built in the 1800s there is no floor drain. There is nothing of value on the floor other than the lathe and mill. I'll see how bad it is in the morning, maybe I'll have to skip work to start bailing, (remember no floor drain) the only way to get water out is to pick it up and move it. Oh poo. I guess I know what I am doing for the next couple of days. OK Whine over for now.
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I live in Fl so my washer and dryer are in my garage the other day I received a call from the sheriffs dept that water was coming out of my house, I got off work early and rushed home to find the hot water side of the washing machine hose split and sprayed water all throughout half the garage it tripped out the hot water heater and dryer plus all the outlets and had Sheetrock falling from the ceiling and walls. I was able to save the table saw and 1 router but lost my porter cable soft start router and dewalt cordless drill, so if you have a washer you do not shut the water off to I recommend buying the stainless braided hoses unless you want to spend money like me.
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Let me start off by saying I'm having a great time. The riding has been spectacular even today when I rode in 3 hours of rain. This being Independance Day long weekend, I have had my challeges getting a camping spot but it always worked out. Night two I was deperite after getting turned away from two camp sites. I saw a farm house that was storing trailers. So I did a door knock and introduced myself and asked if I could camp by the trailers. The man said sure and called his wife who said I could even use his shower outside in his workshop for $15. I thanked them very much and set up camp. I did have to clean the shower as I don't think it had been used in over 5 years. Cob webs and moths all over, but it worked great. So here is my story of my fourth night camping at a KOA in Goodland Kansas. Let me first say that this is a very clean and well kept facility. Well this is earlier then I would like to wake up without an alarm. Real bad storm. A few times I thought the wind was either going to lift the tent off the ground or break it into pieces. I was awake when I heard noises and people at 1am. I didn't know what they where doing. My pee jug was getting full from my second time. I cautiously open the tent a little to dump it out and the ground was covered in water. Only about an inch. The people that I heard where other tenters that got flooded or their tent torn apart. They got in their truck and spinning tires to get out. I laid in bed not able to go back to sleep. The rain was so hard but the tent was doing well. The wind was what concerned me. I was afraid the tent would get damaged and I wouldn't be able to close it. There goes the next 3.5 weeks I was thinking. My mind wasn't stopping should I cut my losses or tuff it out. A lull in the weather happened. *Good time to break camp I thought. Don't be a chicken I thought. So there I laid. The storm picked up again, eaqually as bad. I checked outside by unzipping the door a few inches. Now there was 2 inches of water all over the ground. It kept comming down and blowing so hard that I thought I may damage the tent trying to put it away. At 2:15am I checked outside and there was almost 3 inches of rain water on the ground. That was it, only an inch or two more and my changing area will be under water. I started to pack things up inside the trailer so when there was a lull in the weather I would be ready to spring into action. I made a mental list of what I needed to do outside to close the tent quickly and without damaging it. There I sat bed deflated belongings packed away and waiting. 2:30, the rain slowed right down and wind wasn't so strong and gusty. Like a lion saving their cubs I was out and moving. Lucky I had my boots the trailer skirting was all under water. The gravel road was covered. No hesitation I had to act to get this tent down and closed before another wind gust would come and rip it out of my hand. I kept seeing flash news reports of times past of bad things happening in trailer parks. Everything went smooth. The tent got put away safely. I put the cargo carrier on the picknic table as the water drains thru. What a relief. I may be a chicken and over reacted, but I kept thinking it could get worse and then where would I be. It's only sleep I'm missing out on by packing up. If the weather breaks in the morning I'll set it back up to dry and sleep. If I have to stay another night that's ok too. My tent us not broken. I'm a happy camper. I'll up date you all in the morning. Dave Sent from my iPhone
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I have a 1993 GMC 1500 that I am restoring my ? is I replaced the ac compressor and dryer with all new o-rings and it works great but I get a drip of water running on the passenger side floor any idea what is causing this?
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My wife had a triathlon today. I was out riding the bike course while the swim was going on and came across a 30 foot wide across both lanes except for a foot of what I thought was water. 99 out of 100 times I just would have ridden across, but something made me stop and get off and make sure it was water. Appears someone was angry about the race and dumped oil across both lanes of traffic. It completely covered the asphalt. The bikes were going to be coming in about 10 minutes with motorcycle escorts. Even worse it was on a curve. I'll spare you all the details of what happened but was able to keep any bikers or bicyles from going down though. Have to tell you, it had me shook. I consider myself to be a very safety conscious biker, wear full gear and always thinking safety, but this came out of nowhere. How do you prepare for this. Makes me wonder about being on the farm roads and coming across a truck failure that dumped a bunch of oil on the road. I have a hard time believing that I would have had a chance to keep the bike upright going across that oil. Don't think I could have done it even if it was straight. I get taking certain risk, but this was one I had not planned on that has me a little shook. Was curious if anybody has taken their bike across a serious oil stretch and what happened.
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So after a few years of riding with a nice bag that slides over a backrest, I now need something to fit nicely on the rack of the tourpak. I think something similar to a longer narrow type of duffel would work. Anyone got any good suggestions for a bag that is or can be made water proof?
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I was in the cafeteria at work today. I normally go there late so it is quiet and calm with not many people around. On the other side of the room I could overhear a conversation between one of the cafeteria managers and a customer. I was not paying close enough attention till I was snapped to attention by the comment "by the end of this year the oil in the gulf will have flowed up the Mississippi and be contaminating the shores in Wisconsin". Too which I could only think WTF!!! They then morphed the conversation to the FACT that rivers can only flow south. It is "impossible" for water to naturally flow North. On my way out the door after I finished my lunch I mentioned to the manager that water will always flow down hill regardless of which direction that is. Water does not know how to read a compass. At that same time as I mentioned this there was another customer that walked in and got all over me, because it is a FACT that water can only flow from north to south. At which point I had to RUN FOR MY LIFE. I did not post this in Jokes and Humor cuz it really did just happen!! I thought that I had a pretty good handle on this gravity thing and how it relates to water. Or am I all wet and therefore doomed to be headed south. I'm scared now. Hiding in my office with all of the lights off. OK flame suit on,,,,,,,,,or should I be wearing a wet suit.
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ok, so my water light keeps comming on. I've been reading back through the 1st gen forum and i've seen 3 different positions that the valve is said to need to be at. one person said that it should have off pointed at the 5 o'clock position. another pointed out 2 o'clock, and someone said off pointing to the 10 o'clock position .. anyone know for sure? i know i'm building pressure (although i don't have the tool to measure the specific amount) and my radiator is full, as well as the bottle in the fairing being over half full. so the only areas i'm not sure about are the tubes, and if the valve is letting water through. it's been cold enough that the thermostat gauge doesn't even move, so i can't tell that way.
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I started the bike this morning for the first time this season. For the first time ever, I had the battery plugged into a battery-minder through the winter. The battery remained in the bike throughout the winter. (I have a permanent charger-connector on the battery and am able to connect the charger to it via a cable whose end is available externally.) When I turned the key I got the usual run-through of alarms on the dispaly, but the low-electrolyte alarm stayed on. I removed the cover and the electrolyte level in the sensor's cell, as well as the rest, seemed OK to me, so I removed the sensor, dipped it in a glass of water and the alarm stayed on. I think that I might have a bad sensor, but I'm not sure about that. Anyway, after determining that the battery level was OK, I put things back together, started the bike and went out for a ride. The bike started and ran beautifully. I want to have a working sensor and NOT do the resistor "mod" to eliminate the alarm, so: 1. Do these battery sensors occasionally fail? 2. Is dipping the sensor in a glass of water an adequate way to test it, or is the electrolyte part of the circuit? If so, should I just add demin water regardless of the present level in that cell? Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks. -
Does any one use that stuff. Talked to people that use it and they like it. I would think it would just rub the dust into the paint and scratch it. I like to use water and rince the bike off. I still use small amount of mild dish soap to wash my bike.
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like a puddle of rusty water surrounding the base of your water heater with no obvious drips from the pipes, pressure relief valve, or the drain. I bet ya'll can guess what I will be doing tomorrow...
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I have my bike in my shop now and am in the process of giving it a good cleaning. I'm wondering what everyone uses to clean all of the parts that are hidden under the fairings/seat and side covers. There is a lot of dust and dirt in there. I blew out what I could with compressed air. I am reluctant to spray any water in these areas as it is mostly electrical stuff. Maybe I should just leave it alone. Ideas? Thanks JR -
Nothing like just jumping on the bike and taking off.....well.....once the water boils. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t93QlgBu4Is]YouTube- "Pete's Garage" - "1896 Steam Motorcycle"[/ame]
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Bought a pair of water bottle holders off ebay for $50 for the pair.. I kept one and gave my brother in-law the other one. I just got it installed today. Removed all of the original snaps, some cutting and trimming and installed the new snaps. Easy reach and it does not clutter up the handle bars being on the saddle bag guard. Now if the snow would just melt....................
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Went for a country road ride yesterday, on my Vulcan, ran about 120 miles or so, never more than40 miles from home at any given point, sort of a big semi-circle. Last leg of the ride i was on a road that 2 bicycles would have trouble passing each other on. I rounded a curve, came upon a low water crossing. I stopped before I even got to the edge of the water, could see easily see it was no more than a couple inches deep. I started across, being cautious, knowing it was likely somewhat slippery. I had no idea just how slippery though. 15 foot onto the crossing the rear went north, the front went south, and I landed on my side with the 800 on top of me, it happened so fast that I was still holding onto the handlebars and looking at water running in my helmet. I mean, it was literally a blink of the eye and I was down. I scurried out from under it and hit the kill button, I then reached down and picked it up with my left hand, sat it on the kickstand. I took my helmet off and sat it on my sissybar, it was then I noticed my bike was moving! Sideways! the current was pushing my bike sideways while it was on the sidestand. Water was only a couple inches deep, not even over my shoes. I jumped on and fired it back up, and surprisingly it fired easily, I was already still in first gear so I eased the clutch out, not giving any gas. It started spinning! Even more sideways now, almost pointing straight into the flow of the water. It started to move forward, idling, pointing at a 45ºangle to the flow/direction I wanted to go. Yep, I had to "drift" it across. When I got to the other side and stopped on dry pavement is when I noticed the pain. At least one broken rib, sticking out about 2" from my ribcage, and at least 5 or more ribs bruised badly. Not a scratch or a mark on my bike. Nothing. Not even a scratch on my windshield. In the blink of an eye, and going less than idle speed in first gear! Yea, wife wanted to see the spot that finally put me down. I've been riding since 1968 and that is my first down on a street bike, that is her in the Jeep crossing the crossing
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First off, Happy New Years everyone! Hope to get a chance to ride more this year with ya!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Been having an issue since Biketoberfest with slow leaks in both tires. Running Avon Venoms, maybe 8k on them. tires seem to be in ok shape and have bunches of tread on them. I'd like to think they have plenty of miles left. Went down, filled both to specs and sprayed some soapy water on them. Both of them are leaking badly on both sides of the rims???????????????? I've removed both and hope to get them to the stealer tomorrow to have them busted down and hopefuly resealed. Is this wishful thinking or do I need new tires or worse new rims??????????????????????????
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any one used this,have had to replace water pumps on three of my veh this last yr
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The fountain of youth...lol!!! http://www.flixxy.com/evian-roller-babies.htm
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I just recently bought a 1989 Venture Royale and a day ago I noticed a small wet spot under the bike about as far back as the highway pegs. It was so small, I really didn't take time to investigate. But after leaving my bike parked for two cold days at my G/F in Chicago (near freezing temperatures) I noticed that the spot was about 6-8 inches in dia. and appeared to be water... Anyone know where I may get down and look for the source? Water pump seal? Radiator Hose connection? I have no idea. Thank you in advance for your input. I need it. Sunrayman
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Every now and then I see someone mention about how to make your tires look good. Well, DO NOT use Armorall or anything resembling it, because that can cause major problems when leaning in a curve. Now, back in the OLD DAYS... We didn't have any of the fancy stuff they have now. What we used was 'sugar water'... Just mix a cup of sugar in a quart of warm water, stir ir until it disolves. Then take a rag and soak it with the water, ring it out slightly, and rub the tire with it. Your tire will look better than brand new after it dries. Now, I don't know how many bees it will attract, it depends on where you live....
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I thought I'd post a few comments for those who have not been through this before. It is not hard as long as you have the proper tools. T-handle allen wrenches are almost mandatory for me - they make turning out the many socket head screws fast and easy. In addition, if you follow the manual (Method #1 below), you really want a set of long ball-end 3/8" drive allen wrenches for use with your ratchet. If you follow the shop manual, the job is pretty straight forward, but you will have one frustrating surprise. I have detailed the full drain procedure first as Method #1, then two slightly modified procedures that some might prefer at the expense of not getting out quite as much of the old coolant. The first steps apply to all three methods: You start by removing the seat, tank, both lower fairings and all three battery covers. Don't forget to remove that top center #3 Philips screw on the middle cover; it is kind of hidden! The cover slips out to the left fairly easily, but you do need to watch down in the middle for hoses and wire bundles that will hang up on the corners. Now you are ready to begin draining the fluid. METHOD #1 - The Complete Drain: The radiator drain bolt is obvious on the bottom left, and getting the overflow tank out is pretty easy too. It is only held on by one bolt and a couple of lugs in rubber grommets. Just use your fingers to push that plastic shield above it up so you can pull the filler neck forward and out to the right side. Some folks prefer to siphon out the overflow tank instead of removing it, but I don't know why; taking it out is MUCH easier than messing with a siphon hose! (But you don't have to remove the center or left side battery covers if you are not going to remove the tank.) Note: If you remove the radiator cap before you take out the radiator drain bolt, the coolant will drain VERY fast with quite a bit of splashing; you may want to let it drain mostly on it's own before you take that cap off! Next you will want to pull the fake cylinder fins off and take out the rubber plugs; use an old spark plug to screw into the plug and pull it out. Each cylinder water jacket holds quite a bit of coolant - seemed like about 1/2 cup each but could have been less - and those fin covers pop off very quickly with a 5mm T-handle. Make sure you leave the right front cover off until you finish with the next step! The frustrating surprise will come when you try to drain the water pump. The drain plug is a 17mm plug angled forward in the bottom of the chrome water pump cover, right next to the bend in the header pipe. The service manual says absolutely nothing about this other than to just take out the plug. Good LUCK! Absolutely no way to get on it with normal tools unless you loosen the header pipe. The good news is that you don't have to actually remove the pipe, just loosen the clamp at the front of the Y joint and remove the two socket head nuts on the header clamp (this is where you will really appreciate the long ball-end allen wrenches for your ratchet!). Once the header pipe is loose enough to pull a bit to the outside near the floor board, it is easy to remove the drain plug with a normal 17mm socket and a wobble extension or u-joint. Now you are ready to put all the drain plugs back in and replace the fin covers (make sure to get that header pipe back in place before you put the right front cover on!). DO NOT over tighten the radiator drain plug - that is all plastic, and the torque spec is ONLY 22 inch pounds. Even with the proper torque wrench, that is so light you can't hardly tell it has clicked, so you could still easily over-tighten and damage it. To me, the right tightness seems to be about what you can do just with your hand on a long 3/8" extension WITHOUT the ratchet. That's it. Only thing left is to mix up 3.5 liters of 50/50 coolant and fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL line, then carefully fill the radiator to the top of the neck. Put the radiator cap back on and run the engine for a minute or so (plenty of fuel in the carbs to do this without the tank) to let the coolant settle, then top off the coolant at the radiator cap. Now put it all back together and take your bike out for a short ride to get the motor fully up to temperature and check for leaks. Then after it completely cools off, check the overflow tank and top up to the Full mark if necessary (if there were any air-pockets left when you filled the coolant, some of the fluid from the overflow tank will be sucked in as the engine cools). METHOD #2 - Skipping the Water Pump Drain (almost as good as #1): Several folks have said they prefer to just drain the radiator and try to flush the rest of the coolant out with distilled water (see posts below), so I include these corner-cutting options as Methods 2 & 3. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator. Now pull each of the fake fin covers and pop out that little rubber plug. You will notice that coolant that drains from each water jacket still seems bright green, showing the "flush" was incomplete (that's why you are still doing these plugs). With the radiator plug back in and the fin covers back on, it is time to refill with coolant. But this time you have left some distilled water or highly diluted coolant in the engine, so it is best to not use pre-mixed coolant. Add about 1.75 liters of straight coolant, some to the overflow tank (1/2 full) and the rest to the radiator. Now top up both with distilled water and run the engine for a minute to work out any air pockets, then re-top the radiator with distilled water. METHOD #3 - Short and Sweet and Hope For The Best: In this method you skip draining both the water pump AND the cylinder water jackets. You will be leaving some of the old coolant in there to mix with the new, but some folks find this OK. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator and flush it again just like above. After two flushes you probably noticed a much lighter green color to the water on the last drain, so it is time to add new coolant and button it all back up. But remember, not only are you leaving some water/coolant in the water pump, you are also leaving it in the water jackets too, so you need to use a lower amount of new coolant in the fill. My guess of the right mix would be to add only 1.25 liters of coolant and then top it all off with distilled water. That's it folks, all done for another couple of years! My personal choice is Method #1. Even with the need to loosen the header pipe, it really isn't that difficult, and it doesn't take any more time than adding the engine flushes on the other methods. But whichever method you use, it is certainly better than not changing it at all. So now that the maintenance is done, let's rack up some miles! Enjoy the ride! Goose
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Prevent Swine Flu - Good Advice Dr. Vinay Goyal is an MBBS,DRM,DNB (Intensivist and Thyroid specialist) having clinical experience of over 20 years. He has worked in institutions like Hinduja Hospital, Bombay Hospital, Saifee Hospital, Tata Memorial etc. Presently, he is heading our Nuclear Medicine Department and Thyroid clinic at Riddhivinayak Cardiac and Critical Centre, Malad (W). The following message given by him, I feel makes a lot of sense and is important for all to know. The only portals of entry are the nostrils and mouth/throat. In a global epidemic of this nature, it's almost impossible to avoid coming into contact with H1N1 in spite of all precautions. Contact with H1N1 is not so much of a problem as proliferation is. While you are still healthy and not showing any symptoms of H1N1 infection, in order to prevent proliferation, aggravation of symptoms and development of secondary infections, some very simple steps, not fully highlighted in most official communications, can be practiced (instead of focusing on how to stock N95 or Tamiflu): 1. Frequent hand-washing (well highlighted in all official communications). 2. "Hands-off-the-face" approach. Resist all temptations to touch any part of face (unless you want to eat, bathe or slap). 3. *Gargle twice a day with warm salt water (try to use sea salt, not idodized table salt - about 1 teaspoon in a large glass of warm water, or use Liserine). *H1N1 takes 2-3 days after initial infection in the throat/ nasal cavity to proliferate and show characteristic symptoms. Simple gargling prevents proliferation. In a way, gargling with salt water has the same effect on a healthy individual that Tamiflu has on an infected one. Don't underestimate this simple, inexpensive and powerful preventative method. 4. Similar to 3 above, *clean your nostrils at least once every day with warm salt water. *Not everybody may be good at Jala Neti or Sutra Neti (very good Yoga asanas to clean nasal cavities), but *blowing the nose hard once a day and swabbing both nostrils with cotton buds dipped in warm salt water is very effective in bringing down viral population.* 5. *Boost your natural immunity with foods that are rich in Vitamin C (Amla and other citrus fruits). *If you have to supplement with Vitamin C tablets, make sure that it also has Zinc to boost absorption. 6. *Drink as much of warm liquids (tea, coffee, etc.; especially WATER) as you can. *Drinking warm liquids has the same effect as gargling, but in the reverse direction. They wash off proliferating viruses from the throat into the stomach where they cannot survive, proliferate or do any harm. I suggest you pass this on to your entire e-list. You never know who might pay attention to it - and STAY ALIVE because of it. A 15 year-old near here died
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