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Showing results for tags 'valve'.
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Will 07 valve covers fit on a 1st Gen. Same gaskets aren't they?
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Alright, the valve adjustment on my 01RSV and the clutch upgrade, new friction plates and spring, all is well and working beautifully. The vave adjustment, replaced 14 of the 16 shims, they all were ultra tight, caught it just in time at 85,000 miles, anyone doing this be extra sure of the crankcase vent hose routing, mine was crimped, causing the cover gaskets to blow, after 4 tear downs and a lot of head scratching, finally found it, the clutch upgrade was a snap, less than 2 hours and works perfect, a great big thank you to SkyDoc for the kit and the invaluable help with everything especailly the quick shipment of parts and kits. Thanks to the knowledgeable help of the great site, and anyone looking to do clutch up grade I suggest you contack SkyDoc for the kit. On the Road Again, its good for another 85,000. JB:whistling: -
My venture max, now thinks it's a Yamadavidson, it has left it's mark on the floor of the shop here at work. (looks like the valve cover gasket, and I'll have to clean the floor) I should never have put the H/D tour pack on the back.
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just curious how many miles some of you have gone with no valve adjust... my 2005 with 35,000 miles is running better than ever and really hate to tear into it if i don't need to. i had an 2006 suzuki c50T and had valves adjusted twice and never really ran the same but cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ I'm a believer in don't fix it if it aint broke. -
Looking for a valve adjusting tool for my XVZ12, can anybody help!!
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74k on my ’06 RSV and running great, but time was long past due for the valve adjustment. I have done all maintenance work in the past but the valve adjustment with shims and special tools seemed a little much for me, and wow, did I guess that right. After reading a post a week or so ago and seeing Muffinman’s comments I decided to give him a call and make an appointment to take my RSV to his place in NC. He was great, ordered new plugs, gasket set, fuel filter and he had the shims we were likely to need. He said something about color tuning and I said ‘what’s that” I balance the carbs my self. He said we should do it. What a difference. Here is the story, my RSV for the first 50K or so always went to reserve tank at 200 miles, like clock work, almost never varied more than a mile or two, last 10K or so it was looking for the reserve tank around 175 miles. Fuel mileage, was always 42-44mpg for the first 50K the started dropping to 38-42 lately. Well we did the valves, one intake tight by .001 and two exhaust open by .004, not bad enough to cause any damage yet, nor would I think any effect on mileage. The carb balance was off a little but not too bad, but the color tuning really made a change. Here is what we have now, noticeably more power in 2nd,3rd &4th and get this, mileage very, very carefully checked and getting 46.8 mpg, ½ of the mileage check was with two up and the other ½ solo. Now the bike was looking to go to reserve an 214 miles instead of 200 miles as when new, 175 miles lately. We spent a solid 6 hours, and we both worked, I don’t believe any one could do the job in less than 8 hr, Muffinman did a fabulous job and although a lot work I had a good time working with him, and I would say that unless your really good it’s not a job to mess with by your self, there are some parts that I doubt one would ever figure out with help. Great job, thanks Jeff
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Well that time is upon me. I have rolled over 52k and want to go ahead and get this beast of a maintenance item out of the way. Not to mention the valve cover gaskets are starting to look cracked and stuff (obviously, from the outside) whether that means anything or not, I don't know. I do know that I am starting to get some seepage out of the back right cover (into the spark plug hole) and mileage wise I am a tad overdue. So I have some questions. First of all I am wondering if there is any interest in a valve adjustment day sometime in the next couple of weeks? I can host BUT I still need to order that fancy pants "J" tool and a shim kit. I am pretty sure I have the rest of the required tools (Torque wrenches, sockets, hex and torx socket attachments, etc). I also have a 2 car garage that should provide ample working space for a few bikes. That being said, I have no problem taking a little ride either if someone with more know-how and possibly the tools would be in a more convenient location (ie. NOT Lubbock) and willing to help out. While I could pay the local dealer ~$400 to have it done, I am pretty sure that I (personally) won't be happy unless I SEE it myself. I know that there are some honest mechanics out there but... well... That is how I am. So, anyone interested in a valve check get together? Anyone have the tool & shim kit and willing to let me borrow/rent it? Anyone have the know how and willing to sacrifice a day or two to help me out? If I end up hosting, I can provide food, beverages (as expected, I am sure), ice cream and ????. I have been over Goose's write up and while I am no master mechanic, I am quite confident that I should be able to git-r-done... provided I can procure the proper tools. Thanks for your consideration. Happy riding!! -
If anyone within 400 miles of Charlotte NC is planning to do a valve adjustment any time soon would you please let me know. I would like to come up and watch someone do one before I try to tackle it myself. Thanks all
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Any one near Philly Pa with a valve adjust tool I can have for a day, or where is a good place to get one on the web? thanks
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I made an appointment for 12,000 mile check because of upcoming cross country trip and possible oil leak around rear hub. The service guy said they recommend a valve adjustment. I thought it was too early but he insisted it was recommended. I thought it wasn't needed until 27,000 miles. Is this dealer trying to rip me off?
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So I picked up a 87 venture but turns out it has 40 lbs when hot in one cylinder, front right, put oil in spark plug hole and on re test reading went up to 60 lbs , the other three are good, yesterday I pulled the motor, put some oil down the spark plug hole and with the comp tester on hand turned the motor and the oil pushed out a valve on the exhaust side, so what do you thing ? chiped valve ? bent valve, bad rings ? I did not test any other cylinder with the oil I do have clearance between camshaft and shim. thanks Mike. -
As some of you my remember I had a rear shaft seal go out on my 2007 Midnight Venture and lost a lot of final drive grease before I noticed it. When I went in to investigate I found what looked like the upper pinion bearing gone. I was gonna change it myself but there were several special tools needed to get to that bearing. Plus the Warranty is still good till 2013. I called the dealer and tried to get them to let me bring the final drive but no...no they had the have the entire bike, so I put it back together and borrowed a trailer, then hauled it to the closest dealer. When I dropped it off they told me it would be about a month to fix it. I was sad but left it any way. The next couple of weeks they called and said I had an engine oil leak on the #! cylinder that they were gonna pull the engine to fix it. They said the base gasket was leading? They were gonna replace the drive seal coming out of the engine also. Warranty would cover everything. Ok that sounds good to me. Next week they call and say they waiting on the lower rear pinion bearings cause it came apartt when they removed the pinion to change the front pinion bearing. 4/20 I picked it up after almost 5 weeks at the dealership. Yah:big-grin-emoticon: I hauled it in a short enclosed trailer so I took my windshield off so it would go in it. I also left the rear bags off and after market exhaust (put the stock back on) to keep this stuff from rolloing around in the floor of the repair shop. I carried all the parts, since I was gonna ride it back home. I was putting my windshield back on when I started noticing stuff. Bad stuff.. I inspected the bike... 1. It had a fine coat of oil all over the engine and most of the rest of the bike. 2. The left lower wind vent was cracked. We had some words and they claim that did not happen while it was at the dealership cause they did not work on the brakes. (they pulled the engine and had to disconnect the clutch) I left after they had took some pictures of the "alleged" damage. I had to get out of there as I was heavly armed with lots of ammo and afraid there was gonna be a mass killing if I stayed there much longer. On the way home the bike did not have much power at all (seemed like it had a potato in the exhaust)...the the left floor board seemed to be titled to the left????? The rear end or something is howling..sounds like a 5 ton truck again. Lots of engine noise...maybe valve clicking under hard acceleration. After I got home after 95 miles of hard hard running. I am sick... I cannot not believe this is happening to me. I smell some oil burning some so I immediately get a infrared thermometer to read the temp of the rear end. I read 145 to 165 'F. The exhaust in that area is no more than 120. Oil smell I later learn is coming from the valve covers blowing oil on to the exhaust. I crank up to carry it to a local body shop to see what it is gonna take to get the paint fixed and when I put it into first gear, I notice the entire left floor board moves. I get off and see the bolts about the fall out. That is it...I am scared to ride it now. I inspected the bike again... 4. The left floor board bolts about the fall out. 5. Two bolts missing from the exhaust. 6. Valve cover gaskets leaking at all corners...on even spraying oil on exhaust and left battery cover. 7. Left battery cover got a to the metal scratch about 1 inch long. 8. Clutch seems to be grabbing. Maybe needs bleeding. 9. Chrome clutch over on the right side has a scratch in it like they drug the engine across concrete. . I was scared to ride it now due to all the loose bolts and no telling what else is loose. Pull it in to the shop and start tearing it down. Mainly to get these valve covers to stop leaking and look the timing. 10. The right air filter mounting bolts were finger tight and backed out. 11. Rubber clamp on the air flter housing was loose and spinning, along with the rubber hose that connects it to the intake...these were spinning also. 12. LEft air filter mounting screw was finger tight. 13. clamp on the left front carb missed the carb mount completely and there was a gap you could put your little finger in on the inside of the cab. 14. vaccum line ran through the radiator fan... 15. Found the timing on the rear cylinder off by one tooth front was perfect. I set the float levels in the carbs while I was in there also. I think they might have mixed up the valve shims causing the valve noise, so that is still going on. I did not think to check the valve clearance (since i did not have shims to fix it. and I thinking the timing off was causing the noise...but the valve noise it still there after the timing was corrected. Bike runs a lot better with power now, but still noisy as hell. I tore down the rear end last night and pulled all the exhaust off looking for exhaust leaks. I did the usually grease job on the rear end hoping to quiet it down some. Rear end feels fine and most of the bolts were tight on it... surprise...surprise...it had gear oil in it. Hope to get it back together today to see what the outcome of that is. The dealer wanted me to bring it back to them so they could fix it... and break some more stuff. I think the bike fell off the work stand to the left...left mirror was bad out of adjustment but not damaged. This would explain the broken wind vent and scratches on the edge of the front fairing along with the brake fluid damage. I do not like other folks working on my stuff anyway and I was debating to just swap out the rear end from a VMAX rear end when this happed any way. I may still have to do this to quiet it down anyway. The dealer has agreed to replace the bolts missing as well as the broken lower faring vents but I have not got them yet. What surprised me about all of this...all the mechanics in this shop have gray hair...no kids working back there. I am not sure I can trust this bike any more. I had a trip planned for Colorado but not so sure I can honestly feel secure with it on the road for a week. I believe I will worry about it the entire trip. I am just sick about the bike. So sick I might just sell it to get it out of my shop. I cannot stand to look at it. As you can see in my signature...heavily sedated for your protection, and a certain Yamaha dealer...
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I was going thru some old hard drives tonight. I knew that I had not removed my carbs when I did mine in 2007. Here's the trick, you have to remove one of the wire guides to get the back valve cover off and part of the plumbing to get the front one off. As you can see in the pics the carbs are still mounted on the bike. So for those of you who don't want to remove the carbs take a look at the photos. -
I have the cam covers off, and the gaskets need replacing. I read somewhere that the gaskets from a later model (RSV?) were better than the original VR versions. Does anyone know what part is best? The valve clearances themselves are just a fraction under the minimum clearances .... maybe .01 to .02mm all round. The engine has 56k on it. That's actually not bad, especially the very even wear aspect of it so I will leave them alone for the summer and check again in the Fall. By that time I can find out which shims I'll need, and won't mind waiting for them. In the meantime it will come to no harm. Thanks. -
I have had my bike down for an electrical problem that I thought was the TCI, but ended up being a terminal coming into the TCI. I also moved the TCI, which I put on the wall beside the radio. I also had my Corbin seat recovered and am still not real happy with it. I took it to someone that was recommended, but he has struggled with this seat, and with the changes I had made to it earlier, it made it worse. The biggest thing was my son Brian had my carbs off and had put them on his bike trying to eliminate some problems he is having. He has been thru his 85 carbs several times and still is not getting the proper fuel feed. But, at least mine is running good and feels good. After running it some, it felt real good to do a couple of 1st and 2nd gear runs up to 8,000rpm's. Now, I am getting a little more motivated to tear into the 30,000 mile motor I got with the 85 and put the 2nd gen Venture transmission in it with the V-max rearend in the bike. I am also going to put the solid motor mounts in I got from SGN (Steve) and do the valve clearance check. I really hate to take the valve covers off as they have had absolutely no leaks around them. It makes me wonder if these valve covers have ever been off the motor. It is supposed tyo be about 70 degrees here today with about a 30% chance of thunderstorms later on. RandyA
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My 1st gen was marking its spot in the garage. Did a little checking and the little coolant bypass valve was dribbling like an old man with severe prostrate issues. So I get on VentureRider to find out more. About the bypass valve, not the prostrate. Now is this a site or not. I discover it is a common issue, not serious, and no surprise, Sky Doc has an inexpensive fix for it. With good directions that even I might be able to fix. :shock3:Which is a disadvantage because I won't wind up in the Little Shop by the Creek at Sky Doc's place, with Jean wondering how two grown men can have so much fun. All of that without having to send out an SOS for a question already asked, answered, and a cheap fix available.
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OK after my success with installing new springs, with a lot of hand holding from Rick, I am feeling cocky enough to tackle a valve adjustmnet on my 05 RSTD. I have read V7Gooses's excellent write up and every other thread I could find regarding this procedure. My big question is why does this need to be done? What happens if it is not done? I know there are a few of you out there that think this is a big wasted effort. I would like to hear why? Not trying to start another war like over the Dyna Beads or over the car tires just would like some good feedback from everyone. 2nd part: Has anyone actually tried using the suzuki shim tool on their 2nd gen http://pitposse.com/povashto.html or [ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GTVOC8/ref=asc_df_B000GTVOC8956097/?tag=globa0a-20&creative=380333&creativeASIN=B000GTVOC8&linkCode=asn?tag=citofgamonlco-20]Amazon.com: MOTION PRO SUZ VALVE SHIM TOOL 08-0017: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31ljmdffXzL.@@AMEPARAM@@31ljmdffXzL[/ame] ? Found shims at $5.17 ea http://www.z1enterprises.com/catalog.aspx?pid=YPEN1B. Considering buying a few from 2.55 to 2.85. Anyone know a source with better pricing? Are the sizes about what can be expected to replace? Might just borrow the kit from RandyR or another and restock theirs. Just looking at my options! Last but not least I want to wish everyone at this fine site a Blessed Merry Christmas. I am thankful that God has put all of you in my life and I am truly humbled by his signs of Love starting with his son!
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Valve shims. I am about to undertake my first valve adjustment and I need to know if I need to buy a complete valve shim kit or individual shims. If individual, what thickness and how many? I know it's hard to tell without checking the old ones but what is the most common sizes? If I'm not mistaken it's possible I could need 16 new shims, not likely but possible. Where is the best place to get them? I need this info ASAP so I can get the shims on the way. Thanks for any help...
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Put the dyna beads in last week had to break the beads on the tires due to the TPS system not able to use the valve stem. The cost $65 not bad had 3000 miles on the tires hope to get better wear and mileage out of them. I am getting a better ride a lot less wobble at low speeds with no vibrations. I would recommend this on new tire installations to absorb the cost of re braking the beads, if you don't have TPS there easy to put in threw the valve stem. Next tire change i will be going to the darkside with beads.
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I have been working and playing a lot with my 86 Venture and a few things have come to mind and I have questions to ask all the real smart folk here. Cuz I know you know the answers. 1.) Can I install a brighter headlight .... like one of these super brights I see in cars. If so anyone know what matches up from the auto parts store? 2.) The "drain" valve on the cooling system under the radiator is leaking a bit. Is there an O ring seal in there I can replace or do I need to find a new valve? 3.) I need a new reflector strip that goes across the trunk lid because mine has a patched hole in it and the DMV will not give me collectors plates unless I replace it with an intact one. Does anyone have one they could sell me? 4.) I had my carbs adjusted and the guy doing the work said they were all within "1 inch" he got them within 1 cm. He said that the 1 inch was within specs but WOW what a difference an inch makes. Seem right? 5.) The odometer on my bike reads 30,000 Kilometers(18,640 mi). When I bought the bike about 3 years ago it had 10,000 on it. I know I need to ride more, but the guy doing the valves said he thought it unlikely from what he saw that the bike has 130,000 on it. Is it possible I found a bike that old with so few kilometers on it? I got it from a dealer that had bought the dealership including the bike and he had no knowledge of it's history. I will ask more questions later as I think of them if you do not mind. thanks everyone in advance. Kevin
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What are the symptoms of a stuck/cracked/burnt exhaust valve? Survey says.....?
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Yamaha and the after market 25mm valve shims by K&L and others seem to only be available in 0.05mm incremental thicknesses. It is possible to order Triumph 25mm valve shims in 0.025mm increments. I ordered a couple 2.625mm and 2.675mm shims from BikeBandit, and the order has shipped, so they do have them available. The Triumphs that use 25mm shims are the current Thunderbird and current Bonneville variants, as well as the older 900/1200cc Hinckley engines (like my 2001 Thunderbird). It did take Bikebandit 3 weeks to ship the order, so be cautious doing this if you have an engine torn down and waiting. And they are slightly more expensive than the K&L shims MiCarl has for sale.
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I work for Modine and I bought and installed one of their ceiling hung heaters that was on clearance. Installed it in Sept. and it worked perfect until last week when the weather cooled off drastically. It is hooked up to a 100 lb bottle that probably has a foot of liquid left in it. The pilot went out and I can't get it to light again. I assumed it was a pressure problem. Yesterday it got into the 50s and it worked again. I figured that confirmed what I thought. Today it cooled off again. I made a pressure gauge for inches of water column from plans on the internet. Hooked it up to the input side of the valve ( a Robertshaw 720-402) and it measured exactly 11 inches just like it was supposed to. Part of my problem is that the company sent instructions for an intermittent pilot valve and mine is a standing pilot. When I hooked the gauge up to the output side it shows no pressure and of course I can't get it to light again. What does an expert think?
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I read that one does not need to worry about valve adjustment on the 1300 venture engine until around 100,000 miles. My bike has about 18,000 miles on it, 2008 but I would like to know just went is the recommended time to go to that length in getting into the valves and shim replacement. Just a ballpark figure so as I know about when to perform the valve job. Thanks, DanC:dancefool:
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Has anyone machined valve shims (or had machined) to a new (thinner) thickness? How about has anyone used shims that have been machined? Any thoughts on the matter? I know that at least a couple of Triumph riders have had their 25mm valve shims machined which are the same shims used by our V4 Yamaha engines. I see one valve & heads tool maker makes tools specifically for doing this ($500 tools). What I'm thinking about is possibly buying some used automotive 25mm shims at a good price if machining them to usable sizes is possible. This would also allow me to fabricate shims of sizes that aren't normally commercially available. (they are normally only available in .05mm increments). Only one side of the shims would be machined and that side should be placed down in the bucket, allowing the cam to ride on a origonal side/surface. Last thought. How much would/should a machine shop charge for this service?
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