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Showing results for tags 'shock'.
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Hi all. Newbie needs help. Bought an 89 XVZ 1300. PO let me testride with "blown rear shock air line". I told him I'd buy bike if he fixed. I bought bike and I'm told it sits THREE INCHES TOO HIGH IN THE REAR!!! I know it ain't anywhere as smooth a ride as my old Wing... even with only 5psi in the rear shock. What's going on and did I screw up royale [PUN] I have an 89 parts bike in the shed (blown head gasket, broken clutch cylinder and other) but I really am not ready to do a shock swap if it's something simple. Ideas and opinions please... -
I just bought this from ebay. Is anyone familiar with it? I think it is from progressive suspension, but doesn't look like anything on their site. [ame=http://www.ebay.com/itm/330850145158?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_sacat%3D0%26_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3D330850145158%26_rdc%3D1]1987 Yamaha XVZ13 XVZ 13 Venture Rear Shock Absorber and Linkage | eBay[/ame]
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OK, i've read every post on the site regarding rear shocks, and they vary from 2005 to the present. Right now i'm looking for current info, based on opinion or actual experience--either will do...So of the three readily available aftermarket shocks, (not counting OEM, which is a piece of dog crap, no intent to insult dog crap) which is the best, and why? My research has revealed the following: Hagon. $469 YSS. $499 Works. $879 Figure $30 for shipping...OK, except for the obvious (hint, involves greenbacks) what breaks out one shock from the other? Why does the Works cost so damned much? Anyone have anything good or bad to say about any of these? Anyone know of any other shocks on the market? Thanks for the help, Fred -
I've had my Venture Royale a little over a month and a half now and have put about 1000 miles on it. I have to admit, of all the bikes I have owned or have ridden over the years, this is by far my favorite. When I bought the bike the CLASS system had been disabled. The previous owner did not like it for some reason. All parts are still on the bike and he assured me there was nothing wrong with the system he just did not like the way it adjusted the bike when he rode two up with his wife. The guy is local and a decent guy so I have no reason to believe this isn't the case. When he disabled the system he removed the fitting for the rear shock that connects to the compressor and added a valve to directly air up the shock. I can find the hoses online to replace this hose with the proper connection. I have noticed that when I had a passenger on the bike the back mudflap hits the ground when going over bumps and from the looks of it, it has been doing this for a while. I added air at the valve he placed in the line but it doesn't seem to do much to raise the rear of the bike. My question is this. I have looked into the Progressive front springs and also checked out a few aftermarket rear shocks (Hagon, etc). Is it worth my while to try to get this CLASS system back up and running or I should I just consider going the Progressive route with new rear shock? 99% of my riding is solo. I rarely have a passenger. When I ride the bike solo the suspension seems fine to me. I do feel like the back end sits a bit too low though. Sure, I would like to have the CLASS system working, but am I missing anything by not going that route? Seems to me that if I get it working I might just be asking for more problems down the road. Whereas if I do the Progressive and new rear shock I should not have to even think about anymore. I appreciate any opinions one way or the other. Thanks.
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The new replacement shock has a half inch vent tube on it. The old one didn't . So is there a place to route this vent tube ? It's about 10" long. I,'ve tried to include a picture so look at the whole post
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Just finished this morning replacing my rear shock. easier than I thought went through the right side did not remove tire. Not a bad 2 hours job.
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Could someone get the C/L spacing of the mount holes on a 2nd gen shock & post it?? Couple of pictures would be nice. Getting started on the Hybrid RSV and am exploring the possibility of putting a modified 1st gen shock on it. The milk crate is temporary till I get a lift stand from Carbon One. Gary -
I have a new rear shock on order and need to find someone who has replaced thiers to get tips and pointers on how to replace it. What to remove and what not to remove. Any help would be great. John
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Intereted in someone ho has triked their 2nd gen venture. My shoc has started dripping a little oil so i know it is not long before i need to replace it. If you have one let me know. Thanks
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Hi, 2005 Venture, picked up in March this year, advertised as needing a shock, and nearing 100k miles, but at a good price. Talked to the guy on the phone, big guy...maybe twice my size, so I figure maybe it's still rideable at my weight of 160. Sure enough, it appeared the shock was blown as even with me on it it rode like a '73 Buick with eight of your buddies in the seats and the rest in the trunk headed for the $2 a car drive-in. And the bottom of the shock had some semi wet residue on it. After reading a bunch of threads about shocks I recalled having read something about tilting the bike and allowing fluid to run out of the shock to quiet a 'groaning' seal. Well when I bought the bike I was told it had been laid down on the highway in traffic a couple years earlier, don't know how long it was laid over. So I got to thinking the other night...maybe most of the oil ran out of the shock. In haste without doing any digging as to what to put in it other than a note I had read about someone putting 20W shock oil and some Automatic Tranny fluid...I wound up with all I could find at a Pep Boys at 8pm...A quart of ATF. Figured I'd squirt an ounce or two into the shock, see how bad it leaked and go from there. It took the first couple and there was a noticeable 'feel' of a difference bouncing up and down while in the driveway. So I fed it a couple more shots, even better! Couple more and there was a real difference. All the time checking underneath expecting a puddle. Took it for a quick spin around the block and it was still a bit 'rocking horse' feeling if I tried to make it bounce. Had never checked the air in it, thinking if the oil leaked out how could it hold any air!? Put about 50# of air in it and it felt way to stiff, so I dropped it down to about 35#. That was Monday evening. Rode to work and back past couple of days, about 40 miles total, hitting every rough spot and little whoop ti do I normally avoid and not a single drop of oil has shown up under it. In addition to this my 'nose diving' at stops has been reduced by about 80% which is huge when you're short legged and that nose diving really screws up your stopping stability and confidence. I'll be putting some miles on it this weekend, going on a 600 mile round trip run to Vegas. So we'll see how it holds up. Any thoughts as to why it wouldn't be leaking now if it had in the past? Did the ATF just swell the seals and they'll rot away now? Should I take it off and drain it so I can get the correct measured amount of fluid put in? (Read somewhere, but only 1 post, that there's roughly 7.5 oz of fluid.) What is the proper fluid to put in it?
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My rear tire has worn out, no big deal there. However, on the edges beyond the almost bald center the remaining tread has a patter worn with the leading edge of the tread being higher than the trailing edge. I noticed that I was getting noise in cornering that got louder as the tire wore down. Overall, not a big deal but I am wondering if this is an indication that my rear shock is starting to misbehave. I see no signs of leakage and with 40 psi in the shock, the bike handles okay. Any advice would be appreciated. R. -
Trying to find a replacement air line that goes from the little hole behind the Front seat to the rear shock. Mine is missing and I have no way to check or add air to the rear shock. (without taking the rear tire off- my hands are too big to get in there). Looking on e-bay and parts places but no luck yet. Anyone have a idea where to look for one?- Thanx in advance oh for a second gen btw.
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Found the proverbial oil puddle under the shock. This will be the second shock I have replaced on this bike and haven't even hit 50,000 miles. Anyway, has anyone ever used a shock off a RSTD pre 1999? I see that these are not air shocks. Or, does anyone have one that came off an RSV and is in good working order that they would want to sell? Can't afford a new one or a Works shock. I have been watching ebay and the only one so far that comes up is used for $399. You can get a new one for another $60 including shipping. Thanks in advance for any help. Charles
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Just replaced my rear shock on a 99 RSV. I opted to go with a Hagon, great value for the money. $399 shipped to my house. I cannot get over how well the bike rides and sits. For the money I think they are the best deal out there. I will post after getting some more miles on it.
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The error codes on the compressor for a 86 , e4,e2, what do they mean? I heard the guys talking about how the rear shock could just be a regular shock and wondered where to look and what to read up on for anyone doing this? I think the computer is the issue with my loss of air.
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Went on a 50 mile ride with the wife today. I set the front at 7lbs (I have progressives) and 42 in the rear. On the highway, which was pretty bumpy, it felt like the rear shock was bottoming out. I have the damper set normally at position 3. Now the bags are on but basically empty. The wife & I weigh a total of 345 Lbs and I had a 1/2 a tank of gas. The system is holding pressure & not leaking. On flat ground I don't feel an issue only when I hit bumps & not massive potholes either. So is this a normal feel? Even though the shock has air could it be worn out? The bike oly has 15K miles -
Has anyone ever replaced the oil in the rear shock? Is it possible? I hope to improve the ride for the remainder of the year. My shock is getting tired and seems to be leaking air. Did the entire lead test and found no bubbles anywhere.
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I'm a member at the RoadStarClinic.com and they have a few guys that have successfully installed a hydraulically adjustable shock assembly from a GL1800 (Goldwing). There are a couple of minor mods to make it fit the RS like drilling another hole in a bracket on one end and changing bushings in the other but it works great. Without measurements I can't say it would work on the 2nd Gens but from what I see, it should. I've put 2 links below that go to 2 different threads that should have enough info between the two including the wiring how-to. I also posted a pic of the GL1800 shock and hydraulic actuator after the mods. What I find funny is that they talk about how expensive the GL1800 shock units have become to buy them used on ebay. When I went to look the highest price was $125. Anyway, this is just info in case someone wants to give it a try when their shock takes a dump on them. Link to thread Another thread http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s320x320/577896_3423724624406_1008938154_32461466_1097849736_n.jpg -
The rear shock finally died on my 99 Venture. So has anyone bought one recently and if you did I'd like some input on what to purchase and how much money I can expect to pay. Thanks.
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So Im replacing my swing arm shock mount on my 1990 I couldnt find a 90+ but I bought one from an 86 . I know there are differences with no zerk fittings on 86 but the shock mount is definitely different. The 90 has two set of bolt near the shock mount the 86 has one. Does anyone know if this will work? -
Two weeks commuting with a blown rear shock. Motion sickness pills............... $4.00 New shock with shipping......... $460.00 The new found ability to ride a mechanical bull.......... Priceless.
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After 2 years I found the saddlebags guard bars for the RS 97, and i got them. (Yes I paid at least 100$ over the price since it is not on the market anymore...). I finished to put it, and I didn't realize that one of the upper plates is not on the same positition regarding the saddlebag than the other one. After I runned the bike yesterday, it seems that my rear shock is not longer working now. Did somebody had been on the same situation any time? I'll correct that now, but I wonder if due to the lateral force the shock is not on perfect line and that is enough to stop working. Or when I put the lower plates, and release each one of the two bolts that holds the frame on each lower side (One at the time) that some way released the shock and now is totally loose, and this is the real reason for the shock not working anymore since it is loose. Thanks for any advise on this. :sick::sick::sick:
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OK, we all know that all of the model year Gen2 Ventures are pretty much the same. well, I'm fixin' to buy a new ignition switch and a new factory shock. Mine have both gone almost totally, splooey. Yes, I know there are probably better aftermarket units out there (Works, Hagon) but I feel that I need the adjustability that the factory air preload shock offers, so that's what I'm buying. Partshark has the lowest price that I've found, but. I'm finding two part numbers and two different prices. The Partshark diagram shows no vent hose before 2005. Those shocks show a price of $512.84. 2005 and after show the vent hose and a price of $434.50. Now to confuse things worse, one of the years showing the older part number, more expensive shock shows the newer part number at the higher price of the older part number shock. So, the question is....is there a difference between these two shocks and/or price. I don't think there is, and I'm thinking that Partshark has just listed the new updated part number with a wrong price. Why would the older non-vented style shock (if they even make that version any longer) be more expersive than the newer vented style?
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So I am pulling the rear wheel for a tire change and once the wheel is off I am checking the swing arm, shock etc. WHen I pick up on the swing arm, there is up and down slop where the bolt goes through the top shock mount. Bolt is tight, its like the mount hole in the shock is too large. I would figure this to be a near zero tolerance fit where the bolt passes through. Sufficient slop that you can make impact noise with it if you push up and down slightly on the swing arm. Amounts to about 1/8 inch movement up and down at the axle just from the slop in the bolt. Anyone else seen this before? OEM shock 22,000 miles. There is also oil on the bottom of the bellows. Still holds air and no excessive bouncing I can tell, but likely not long for this world. Thanks, RSTDdog
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It looks like the dreaded pogo effect has started. The rear shock will hold air but the damping is going. Unfortunately the warranty ended last October so I'm on my own. I hate to drop $600 on new one but I don't trust something used from eBay for something like this. Does anyone know of a viable alternative or am I pretty much stuck on this? Can't complain too much though, I have 90k on the bike so it's not like I didn't get any use out of it?
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