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Showing results for tags 'running'.
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I ordered the running lights from Yamaha and bought the mount from a venture rider member. Everything is fine except the bolt that runs from the light frame and screws into the piece that holds the turn signals is missing. The bolt has a hole through the middle to run the wire through. Can't find it anywhere and the parts dept. I ordered the lights from seem to think I will have to order a bunch of things I don't need just to get the two bolts. Any ideas or does anyone have them laying around that would be willing to sell to me. Thanks.
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Where can I get the Hannagan ground affect running boards?...Have checked with Hannagan site but there is no listings for them...HELP!!!!!!PLEASE......
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I looked but have not found a thread about this. My 04 RSV has started running rough at speed only, idles smooth, and rough is intermediate no all the time. I first noticed it at 11,000 miles, at 75 to 80 mph the bike begins to have a rough vibration. Thought it was tires at first, but then realized it was engine, ran bike up to 90 and pulled clutch in and bike was rolling smooth. Went home and parked bike, the wife said lets ride to Valdosta and eat, got back on and bike was as smooth as ever. On the way bike was rough again, but half way back it just smoothed out. I am going to change plugs tommorrow and put some sea foam in the tank. Any other suggestions Gregg
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After trying all searches I haven't come across an answer to my question so here goes. Since buying my 06 RSTD I've been running it with no air in the rear shock. We've ridden 2-up quite a bit on different roads and haven't bottomed out. The biggest advantage in running with 0 psi for me is that the bike is lower so my short little legs allow me to reach the ground easier. My biggest concern is that everybody seems to be running more than 20 lbs in the rear shock. I just re-read the manual which states: SPRING RATE: Minimum (soft): 0 psi Standard: 0 psi Maximum (hard): up to a max of 57 psi Does anybody run 0 psi in the rear??? Is there a negative other than bottoming out if running 0 psi??? Thanks Greg
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I was having a problem with keeping the bike running so I took it to the shop. They said they took the carbs off and that they were gummed up. Bike is an 07 with 37K. I did a 6000 mile ride out to Sturgis and back and didn't have any problems until the last day coming home. That morning it didn't want to stay running. I got it running and rode it back home with no more problems. The bike sat for maybe 4 days and I went to go ride and could not get the darn bike to stay running. I pulled the choke out and it would run full choke for a min or two and then cut off. I let it sit for a few hours and then went back out and pulled the choke and got the bike to run high ideal then pushed the choke in and it was running fine. Now the bike has sat for maybe 2 or 3 days and it is doing the same things. I can not keep the bike running with full choke or without choke. Does anyone have any ideas of what might be causeing this. The bike does have K&N filters been on for over a year now, road king pipes been on since 700 miles, AIS has been plugged then unplugged. I have replaced the fuel filter right before the cards got cleaned. I checked the fuel pump it is still pulling a sucktion. All fuel lines are conected and in good condition. I replaced the spark pulgs right before the cards got cleaned. I personal don't know what else could be the issue other than the cards wont tuned correct and the jets are back and not shemmed correct. I am by no means a mechanice but I do know how to do many things by reading our tech forums and the manuals. If anyone can help please speak up. Thanks so much in Advance. Robert 'TheKid'
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I have a good one for you electrically inclined... This may be long so bear with me. A few weeks ago I was on a trip to the Dragon and after a long day of riding we returned to our motel and my bike died. No power at all. First thought ignition switch, but after further investigation we determined my battery was shot. It was late on Saturday and I called a local bike shop and had them stay open until I got there to buy new battery. I put new battery in and bike fired right up. All was well, I thought. Sunday we started home and after a few hours on the road we stop to take a break and when we went to leave my new battery was dead. I had to push the bike off to get it started. I had installed the Stebel horn the week before so I thouoght that may have something to do with my battery being drained. At the suggestion of a fellow rider, at our next stop I unplugged what I thought was the wire going to the horn but instead it was the wires going to my tail/brake lights. He wanted to see if the battery would recharge itself after a few miles. It did. This tells me something in the wiring going to the rear of the bike has a short that may be pulling the battery down. No fuses were blown. After I got home I had my neighbor check everything that could be checked to see if he could find the problem. We checked the battery for proper voltage, both with the bike running and not running. We checked the wiring for broke wires or bare spots that could cause a short. We could not find anything wrong. With bike not running the draw on the battery was 0.04 volts/amps (?). With it running it was putting out 13.8 volts/amps. (I know nothing about this stuff so I don't know if it is volts or amps.) I have plugged my lights back up but I have not riden my bike for any extended length of time to see if I still have the problem. Just sitting in my garage the battery seems to be fine. It has started right up everytime. I plan on riding it for a few hours this weekend to see what happens. Does any one have any ideas? What would draw the battery's juice while the bike is running? The alternator seems to be working properly.
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Check out the Motorkote comments an tracking post. They are running specials for a few days.
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Recently I sealed a fuel leak on one carb. During testing I noticed one carb slide was lagging behind the others (bad diaphragm). For the moment I have repaired the diaphragm with silicone. The bike was running rough after the repair, leading me to believe the synch was probably off. My home-made synch tool verified that the carbs were off and I made adjustments. The bike did not seem to properly respond to these adjustments. I decided to pull the pilot screws caps and check the settings. It has been said that a general setting for the pilot screws would be 2.25 turns out. I found mine to be between 3.25 and 3.75! My thinking is that after 24 years and 63,000+ miles, these screws must have backed out on their own. I adjusted all of them to 2.5 turns out and took my wife to dinner (45 mile round-trip). The bike is running much smoother below 4k and seems to have better torque. Comments from the gallery?
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One thing that has always bugged me about this bike is that the 4 way flashers (hazard lights) will only work while the engine is running.. It's obvious so that you not run down the battery but shouldn't you be able to turn the bike off, and still have 4 way flashers alerting others while you're stopped somewhere? One case in point is when I go to the drive through bank teller machine on the bike, they prefer you turn off your vehicle (no idle zone).. but I don't want to sit there vulnerable to the next git on a cell phone or picking his nose.. I would love to be able to have the flashers on while on accessories.. So how long could you possibly run your 4 way flashers on acc before hurting the battery? Could they even be wired in such a fashion to make them available without the engine running? a local lad jumped off his bike to assist a pedestrian accident, left his bike running for the 4 way flashers to work and someone jumped on the bike and made off with it.. go figure eh?
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erhm are any of you gents and ladies electrically inclined to be able to help me out with this one? I've come to realize that my 4 way flashers no longer work, I am not able to find a clymer book to help me with the trouble shooting so I'm hoping one of you savvy individuals can assist me.. With the bike running or not, ignition switch on (bike not running), I have my turn signals working properly if the 4 way flasher switch is to "off" position. However, when the 4 way flasher switch is to the "on" position, the signal lights won't flash. Someone has told me that it's a simple 4 way relay change but don't know the part number or location or 'anything else' about it.. Anyone able to help me out with this one? Many thanks in advance! Cheers
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I am looking for a reasonably priced set of headlights (I call them running lights) for my bike; I had them on my previous bike and it did make a difference in people seeing me. I have a 2004 Yamaha Venture R/S. Thanks everyone.
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hi guys, I'm down in PA visiting friends and the bike broke down weird.. The other week I reported the bike shutting down for no reason but it would restart easily as if nothing had happened. Because of that, we decided to continue to head out on this road trip as the problem never reoccured after those two initial incidents. We rode the whole 2,000 miles down here in the heat, no probs what so ever, over hill, dale and high speeds, slow speeds, the bike was running flawless until after we got here.. oops. We did a fill up 100 miles before getting to destination. After an initital meet and greet we headed out for a local ride and after a 'spirited' run, the bike switched off once again as before.. I pulled over onto the side of the highway and waited a few minutes but could not get it started again. After perhaps 30 mins we pushed the bike down the road with me on it, just to get it off the highway and while coasting, I hit the start button and boom.. good to go! she fired up and stayed running, lots of power an as before, like nothing had happened. But when we get back to the house here, we decided to take it up to the local dealer in this small town to see if they could test the coils, as this was the one item everyone had been leaning on before. The first night they had the bike they tested the coils and couldn't find anything wrong with them so I decided to order new ones anyway to remove that 'maybe perhaps' issues out of the way for good.. But when I picked up the bike the following morning, it fired up AOK but after 5 minutes of idling getting ready to roll away for the day while waiting for the coils to arrive, the bike died and never started again.. Full choke or no choke, it would no longer catch and stay running. So I left the bike with them yesteday waiting for the new coils to arrive today and hope that this woudl finally resolve the problem. As a precaution I had them replace the fuel filter and spark plugs as well. New coils arrived, they installed them and fugh.. same thing..can't get the bike to fire up. The bike had run smoothly and perfectly on the way down here, 2000 miles in 2.5 days and no probs what so ever.. but that one run locally did something to the bike and no one knows what's what. The local dealer is a small one, and they are stumped. I'm sort of on a short schedule as it is now and with no resolution in sight as to what might be the problem I'm hoping someone here might have a glimmer of hope! Conditions: new plugs, new fuel filter, bike on premium gas. new air filter and new oil change before departure a few days ago. While rolling on the highway, engine shuts down. Lights still work. Bike restarted and ran fine for the rest of the ride. However no longer able to get the bike started. Cranks over ok but won't catch or stay running. One weird thing to point out and I don't know if this means anything but I noticed that when the bike shut down the first time here, I had the signal light on and the indicated blinked rather oddly but my ride buddy behind me said the rear signal lights appeared normal. I honestly don't know but I had the feeling this might had been a diagnostic code that the signal light blinked fast at first and then settled down normally. I don't think it's the kick stand switch or the ignition switch that has gone wonky as the bike will crank over but it's simply not catching.. So folks, if you have any sage words of advice to help us out.. please let me know. Cheers -
Hi, my left front turn signal works but the left running light doesn't. I have passing lamps. I've tried replacing the bulbs, no luck. Any suggestions?
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I bought a used 1990 Venture. I went on a trip to OH. I parked it at night, it was running fine. The next day it start skipping and popping. I worked on the kill switch and it seemed to fix the problem. Since I returned home, bike had been running good. I went for a short ride recently, parked it, and it has not started since. No spark! All other electronics work properly. Any and all ideas greatly appreciated.
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I am posting my motorcycle for sale here on the forum. I will take reasonable offers. I hate not being with a motorcycle but it's safer that way. Reasonable offers accepted. You can see it in the classified. It is a great running motorcycle.
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It always feels good when you have put off something and then finally get to it and get it done. Well, I had put off splitting the fairing even though I have done it at least 4 times before. I just did not want to do it. I had to figure out why my right front running light did not work. The turn signal worked, but no running light. The visor on the headlight also need to be fixed. Well I finally got around to it Saturday night. Split the fairing, and fixed the visor. That was the simple part. Took all the wiring apart that runs to the passing lamps and found a broken wire that made the running lights work. Put everything back together and it all works. Oh what a feeling to finally get it done. Just thought I would share. Have a great day if you want to.
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I rode my bike to work this morning. The fog was thick and about 3 or 4 inches up the center of the windshield the dew would not blow off. It was rolling off of it ever where else. I was running about 70 mph. Is there something to put on it so that it won't stay on the windshield? thanks tim
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i just installed six led lights on my saddle bags . lights have 3 led bulbs in each light. i will hook up to the running light wire off bake light. leds will be used as running lights not brake. do you see a problem here as far as having enough power to do so? thanks
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I just completed the muffler swap, Bub's to HD's, and the right side is popping now as soon as I decellerate. I was used to the Bub's crackling and popping during decel, but this is worse now, and almost exclusively on the right side. I am going to change the plugs, still running the factories @ 15k. I did notice the right side seemed to be running richer as there was some faint black smoke when I started it up and ran it after the muffler install. I did knock the plugs out of the HD's, but the Bub's were running with no packing in them. It doesn't "feel" like there is as much exhaust coming out of the HD's as there was the Bub's though. I even checked all the exhaust clamps just to be sure I didn't have any leaks. Just kind of stumped as to what has changed. My AIS is still operational too. Thanks in advance,,,,.
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OK folks, a couple of worry wart questions from the dirvers seat: I moved my TCI last weekend. The job was the expected PITA but its done now. I took the bike for its first ride to work since the relocate today. I find that the original problem, a misfire under load at 3k rpm's and above was still there but less frequent than I was used to before. The problem always did seem to be temperature related. It was much more apparent on cool mornings than warm afternoons. Today, the engine was rock solid when I set off from home but as she warmed up there was a short period where she would mis fire and then she seemed to get through it and ran flawlessly again. It was as though there was a troublesome tempreature band she went into and then out of as she warmed up. I have yet to open this TCI but I am prepared to do so if necessary. I suspect that I'll find an iffy solder joint somewhere inside that is sensitive to thermal expansion. Meanwhile I am trying to characterize the fault and the effects that the TCI move has had on the situation. While riding, I was wondering / worrying about the reasoning for Yam's engineers to put the TCI where they did. Do we know anything about their original thinking? Does the TCI actually require some cooling from the air flow in its stock location? If so am I damaging it by running it up top? What sort of miles have folks here got running bikes with relocated TCI's ? Is there any indication that the TCI's are more prone to fail after a relocation? Thanks, Brian H. -
I pulled my rear 2 plugs last night and looked at them just out of curiosity. They were white and looks like it is running lean. My question is, what causes this and how do I fix it? It's an '05 RSTD.
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Got the trike back Saturday. Apparently the drive shaft was aligned wrong and the rotors were bad on the rear brakes. There was alot of vibration and noise. Took it back to the mechanic and they had to adjust the drive shaft and put on new rotors. Since I picked it up Saturday afternoon, I have put several hundred miles on it. It's running way better now and I'm loving it! Except for the gas mileage. I was getting 36 mpg before the trike kit and now I am only getting 26-27 mpg. The carbs have been synched. Anyone have an idea what else it could be? I posted some more parts for sale in the classifieds if anyone is interested. Will post more pics when I get time. See everyone at the rally next week. Don
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I was just returning to town, about 10 miles to go, and had been running the Interstates on a ride, for less than 2 hours, running at 70 MPH. All of a sudden my speed cut back to 60 and then less and increasing the throttle made no difference. I took the next exit, throttled back, went through town and back home with no further problem, but not going over 35 MPH now. This was earlier this morning and the temperature was actually rather cool. Recalling an experience with one of the pickups in the past, a similar problem proved to be a semi plugged filer. Anyone agree, or is there another possibility? Owen.
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I seem to be noticing a rich running issue recently. It appears to me it is at idle conditions. Fuel mileage seems ok...similar to what i always get. Around 40 mpg. At idle i notice a strong fuel/rich mixture smell...if it idles for any length of time....some 'smoke' from right pipe (fuel?)...accompanied by strong fuel/rich mixture odour. I pulled and checked plugs. Right front cyl. seems to 'foul' badly...wet with fuel. If i pull vacuum barb cap on that cyl...notice some raw fuel...but no external fuel leakage otherwise. Right rear plug looks somewhat rich too.... but better than front cyl plug. Left side plugs look perfect. If i try to adjust mixture.... left side carbs will lean out and stall out engine...right side makes very little difference as screws are adjusted. Bike runs decent starts well...no issues otherwise. Bike hasn't been sitting. Have changed plugs several times. Brand new set right now. Have run seafoam in the past...late last year....just as a 'maintenance' thing. Just changed diaphragms(only because of age...was running ok)...seems problem surfaced or more noticeable then...or coincidental??? 3 of 4 diaphragms had a small pinhole each. Synched carbs several times. Any thoughts/suggestions?
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just bought a 1990 been trying to trouble shoot fixed one cylinder with new plug wire and boot trying to do the same for other cylinder when i pull the plug when bike is running there is no drop in performance, also the wire will spark outside the wire when unplugged and touching the cylinder with a neww wire and boot
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