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Showing results for tags 'plug'.
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I'm replacing my stock CB/Radio antenna on the VR with a Firestik . I looked at the new antenna and of course it has a male end. So I want to replace with all new from the antenna to the CB. I see that I will need different parts to hook this up. One end of the old coax has the plug in type of connector (like on a car radio antenna wire)at the CB and the other end has the old mounting unit built right on it. Where can I get coax with the plug on one end and the screw on connector at the other end by the new mounting stud? OR ----- can I cut the old original mounting end off and put on a new screw on connector for the mounting stud end for the new antenna?
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Presently, on my Venture I have both 'frost plugs' drilled out completely in the RK muffs. It's fairly loud when accelerating but quite tolerable when cruising, I'm wondering if anybody has just one 'frost plug' removed and which end did you remove ? I have a bit that will remove all of the plug and makes a real nice clean hole.
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I was replacing the spark plugs on my 97 Tour Classic and in the process of struggling with removing one of the spark plug wires the wire came out of the boot. Seemed to be much too clean of a break; looked like it was cut with a knife the break was so clean. How do these connect within the boot themselves? I am assuming I now have to replace the entire assembly (coil plus wire), correct? Is there any way to repair it? -
There's a few of you who have read/replied to my thread regarding my '89 backfiring a lot.http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=45485 I posted a little bit about the no spark condition on the right rear cylinder. I tested the coils, and are within limits, all three other spark plugs work just fine. I tested the spark plug wire installed on the coil and the plug cap removed - got good resistance. I then tested the wire with the cap on and the cap by itself and was having a hard time getting a good resistance value. I had to turn the multimeter onto 200K ohms to get a reading. I'm thinking that the spark plug cap may be the problem. Anyone have other ideas? I've got new wires/caps on order. Hopefully that'll fix the the problem! Has anyone had a no-spark condition before from the spark plug cap or the spark plug wires?
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I was looking for CDI's/TCI's on Ebay when I came across one from Pinwall Cycle listed as a 2002. They post great pictures of their products and I was looking at this TCI/CDI. It has two plug connection points. One with six spade and one with eight pinouts. I wonder if the 2002 will work on our 1st Gens? Part number painted on unit is: 4XY-01 1ZB -
I can not seem to find a socket to fit. First socket was not deep enough, then bought a new socket, and it was too thick. Now I am scratching my head. The socket fits on the plug, but cant reach the plug. The outer wall of the socket is stopping it from reaching the plug. Any help?
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Been looking at Tach's for maintenance work. I would like one that works with both the Venture V4 and V-Twins. This is the only one I've found that will do from 1-12 cylinders. It also provides three means of connection(s). What type of ignition system does the 2004 Venture have? How about an 2005 V-Star 1100. A Multiple Spark Ignition System orDirect (coil on plug) Ignition System This is the Tach I'm thinking about. Will it work? I like the Inductive Pick-Up on Spark Plug Wire for maintenance work. Thanks in advance.
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In another effort to find out why she ('83 VR) is running like crap, I was looking at some of the carb sync threads and was trying to locate all applicable parts on the carbs. Instead of a "plug" on the #2 (?) cylinder (left front) I noticed there is a vacuum line on there. This used to run to a cannister above the plastic heat shield on the rear cylinders and from there to ???? The cannister had a big hole melted into it following a exhaust leak and I never traced the outgoing vac line down. I did not see "vacuum line" mentioned anywhere, so is this thing on all bikes? i.e. does it matter/is it important? Am I correct in assuming that I should be OK to cap this tube altogether? Is it safe to say that if my plugs are all a light gray and the exhaust pipes all get hot my coils are good? Same question for the CTI? (which I have not found yet!) There is (a lot of) road grime on the left front carb towards the airbox and the left rear carb appears to be "wet" as well, any idea where this may be coming from? I seem to remember some/ several saying to pull the YICS chamber, don't remember why, if I do, do I plug the hoses or cross connect them and in which way? Well that ought to get me started I think. Thanks in advance! edit: should probably add that I could smell fuel while checking around -
Toward the end of the season my 86 wasn't too appreciative of wet weather....it would kick up quite a fuss for about 10 -20 kms (as I believe the engine would warm up and dry the moisture of the plug wires)...then all would be just fine. I actually sprayed the wires which was helpful but didn't quite elieviate the problem. A collegue gave me a set of wires that he wasn't using to replace mine. Question lead in......if you look at a cross section of the current wire it is braided core with a black sheath surrounding it......the wires he gave me are braided core, white inner sheath then the outer black sheath........Is there a big difference???...can I use the wires he gave me?? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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ive got an 01 rsv and have coolent seaping from both rear heads. well just under the head from a small rubber plug on both cyclinders . already replaced the radiator cap but still seaps after two days . is the plug like a freeze plug or what ?
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:255:Other then the plug being stuck. I need to measure the level of oil. I do not have a dip stick to measure. Does anyone know the the hight in inches from the top of the fill to the oil. Thanks Doug
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Was looking at parts fiche for '09 RSV, on page 49 of 101 # 12, there is a plug in the top of the drive shaft tube. What is this plug for? May be a stupid question, but I didn't know it was there or what is it's purpose for being there.
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With Christmas just around the corner and coming on fast, thought I would sneak in this shameless plug for my daughters business. www.DonnaA.scentsy.US She is married to a 25 year retired Marine Gunny and they recently adopted my first grandson. So, she has started this business to be a good stay at home mom to make sure I don't corrupt the grandson too much. Anyway, she would appreciate the business. Thanks for looking
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Was having problem with #3 not firing. I checked for spark, plug was good but replaced anyway, cleaned all plug wire caps and check resistance, all no help. While bike was idleing I adjusted the sync screw for 3 and 4 a little bit each way, no help. ( I have a carbune ordered) I let bike sit a day, bolted tank back up and was going to run it that way for the weekend. When I startedthe bike, it's running worse. ONly on 2 cylinders now. #3 is now firing. # 1 and 4 are not. Any thoughts? Ok, so after more troubleshooting here's what I've found. Pulled the air box, hooked up a funnel with gas, kept bike running, there is gas going into all carbs when running, fuel pump is working., So, must be electrical
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Just put bike back on road after 2 months, it was running rough, #3 ? cylinder, (right rear) was not firing as the pipe did not heat up. After searching this site, I took apart the spark plug cap on this and found corrosion on the spring. Cleaned it up, and now running like new again.
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As ya'll know I did the "gauge conversion" last spring. After a summer of driving, I found recently that the "main fitting" (that M20-1.50 oil drain plug that replaces the stock plug in the side of the engine that we tap into) was leaking oil. I had used a nylon washer. When I removed it, I found that the threads were quite chewed up ... not stripped but more like "flattened". Like the sharp edge of the thread had been filed down. Any ideas about this? Are these threads not exactly the same as the plug that comes out of that hole? I'm concerned about re-using it now. There seems to still be sufficient thread depth to hold it in but .... to me, it should look normal after unscrewing it. Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions? I wonder if wherever I got the oil plug from that they gave me a wrong one...or is that even possible. What is better than a nylon washer? I'm thinking the washer somehow shrunk from compaction and heat to cause the leak because it was fine for most of the summer. I just noticed this recently after parking the bike for the winter.
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Well it looks like I need a larger stator..... I only have the yamaha passing lamps and a set of Motolights and the bike cant handle it... Drains the battery.... if I turn off the 55 watt Moto lights I could save the 8.3 amps... but I bought them to be seen....... I was going to pull the plug on the carb heaters, but this is wisconsin......I ride until it snows...never too cold with the buckeye stator I hope to have more than enough power -
There is a cast-in boss running across the top of the rear end drive, just aft of the joint between the torque tube and the drive. There is a rubber plug in the end of that boss. I need an attachment point and it looks like there might be a threaded hole behind the plug. The plug is very tight and I might destroy it while removing it. Does anybody know if there is a threaded hole behind it? Thanx, Woody -
My bike failed to crank and what I found was the fuse on the side of the starter silenoid was corroded, more than likely from road salt from being ridden in north Ga. What I did was removed the silenoid assem. removed the plastic peice that hold the fuse and the wiring harness plug, then pulled the metal prongs the fuse and plug mounts to out, the top peiced that bolts to the hot side of the silenoid I removed completely. Bought a fused link ( heavy duty $3.99 at oriely's) soidered a electrical end on one end of the link, and the other end to the spot where the fuse plugged to the blades that the wiring plug connects to. You have to grind some of the plastic away to put the blades back in. But now my fuse is behind ths side cover, and easy to access. I should have taken pictures but was in a hurry to get the bike running. if anyone else is having this problem and wants to perform this fix let me know and I will try to draw a diagram, or come help if your close enough. Gregg
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Why is it those meteorologists gotta be throwing that "s***" word around so willy nilly and all so early in the fall already?! If I plug my ears and pretend I never heard it, will it stay away?
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Never fails I got the title in the mail my 04 Silverado is paid in full. I started the truck up last night and the service engine light came on but it runs fine. No time to have it checked and I'm leaving for New York this week.There used to be a paper clip shorting method on the under dash service plug that would spit out the error codes. I think those had the 12 pin diagnostic plugs. Mine has a 16 pin plug under the drivers side dash Is there a way I can put it in test mode to get the stored error code. It is probably something mnor but I need to know before leaving.
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OK, I always seem to do things bassackwards. A couple of weeks before the '99 Venture grabbed me by the throat and said BRING ME HOME, I bought a MotoCom RiderLink system for the RSTC. Now that I have the Venture, I'd like to adapt the RiderLink head sets to the Venture. It first looked like all I needed was a PC keyboard adapter to go from the RiderLink PS2 plug to the Venture 5 pin DIN plug. Well being the pack rat that I am I had the PC adapter. Well I guess the pin-outs are different. I hooked it up but get no sound out. Anyone have any suggestions? Walter
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I read in another thread, I think started by Monty (Thanks!) about resistor plugs making eh scoot run bad, so, I checked and sure enough... I went to try and get some non resistor plugs, and man what a hassle. The parts guy said no place stocks non resistor type plugs anymore. He was kind enough to call several different places to find a set. So they will be here in the morning. Whew. In the midst of all this, I tried to remove the #4 plug, and it is seized in the head. I learned about this while wrenching cars, so, I can get it out ok, but now I need to find a thread chaser. I was all over town trying to find a 12mm thread chaser, and everyone tried to sell me a tap. After arguing with the 12th guy about the difference between a tap and a thread chaser, I gave up. Does anyone here know where to find a thread chaser for these bikes? Even a brand name or a website would help.
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Ok, Got it home and unloaded. Took it out for a shakedown cruise. WOW!!! I know it needs a carb sync. It accelerates well and runs really smooth at highway speeds, but will not come back to idle and I can hear the exhaust hitting harder from the right muffler at idle. The cruise does work fine. I went ahead and put a whole can of Sea Foam in the 1st fill up, to see if that will help. At this point the only thing I see that REALLY won't work is the "Select" button on the dash. I guess (didn't get an owner's manual with it) that changes the odometer display to the 2 trip meters. It seems to be stuck in. I tried to pry it out a little with no success. My question is what all do I have to take off to get to it, so I can either free it up or replace it? Now I just gotta decide what to do about the missing antenna. Yeah the CB one is on the wrong side, but he did that to get the AM/FM to work, 'cause he never used the CB. Oh, does anyone know if there is an adapter to allow me to connect my Rider Link headset, with a PS2 plug to the DIN plug on the Venture? I'm gonna look for some of my old PC keyboard adapters...
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I have one little problem remaining with my 1st Gen. The CB was working when I took her down for the makeover, now it is not working,at least some of it isnt. It powers on, transmitt icon comes on when I push to talk, and when I adjust the squelch that icon shows loc/dis..........but I am not getting any sound out of the speakers. I have checked all the connections on the cb and all the connections where they plug into the amplifer. I am stumped,its not a big deal, but I would like it to work like it did before........anyone else ever have this problem? Any help would be appreciated.
