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Showing results for tags 'oil'.
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BUT.... I can not put more then 3 Qts in the since it has been Triked... this is with a new filter as well. If I put 3.5 Qts in and start the bike and let it sit over night the oil is at the top LINE of the site glass. and then in return it will run out of my over flow vents at the bottom of my bike. As you can see in a previous post that I had made in the trike section with the oil all over my Diff from the spray back from the vent tubes. The trike looks level and all. and with the 3 Qts in there the oil is right at the middle on the site glass now. It is just stumping heck out of me.. bike runs great , but still it is only 3 qts, Think it will be OK this way? Thanks, Jeff
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I have a 96 Royal Star Tour Classic i bought about 6months ago and it has developed a new noise. It sounds like a tire or [ame=http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=873#]belt[/ame] rubbing, but only when I coast or decelerate i in gear with the clutch out. i have read the vast array of threads about "chirping" and "whining" because of the gears and clutch basket, but all these mention the noise in acceleration and not deceleration. i don't have that problem, on when coasting or slowing down. I would greatly appreicate any help or advice. Thanks, Sam p.s. i should note that I have already changed the oil, and the final drive hypoid oil, both with no change to the noise. -
Maybe this has been around for a long time? ( the bolt on the bottom of the filter) [ame=http://www.amazon.com/KN-204-Motorcycle-Powersports-Performance-Filter/dp/B000E2CVI8/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_i]Amazon.com: K&N KN-204 Motorcycle/Powersports High Performance Oil Filter: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Q8P2EBL7L.@@AMEPARAM@@41Q8P2EBL7L[/ame] I just think it is a great idea.. this above link might not be the correct filter for your bike.. I just had to show these K&N's Jeff
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2007 RSTD w/23k miles and factory warranty until October. Yes; a squeak at idle and fading away with engine rpm, or at least I don't hear it. I just changed oil a few miles before it manifested itself most of the time at an idle. I could occasionally hear it prior to the oil change but very minor in volume, yet now much louder and most of the time. I took it to the dealer and he couldn't identify it yet was willing to tear into it but was cautious about doing that without a clear idea what they were looking for. He asked about oil change and I replied it was just done within a few hundred miles and it was 10-40 Kendal 4 stroke Motorcycle oil. He suggested that I change it to 20-50 since we live in south Florida and it should perform well with it, we could see if the change has any effect on the noise. I read a thread that sounded similar to my noise with the best comment being a possible water pump bearing but 90% of the replies were rhetoric about the OP have hearing issues, so please just good positive comments. Thanks -
wan't to go to syn oil in my 08 RSTD. I used ames oil in my RSV should I stick to the same it seem to done good on RSV. What weight for ames syn oil for summer. I can't remember what I used before. Any help? Joe
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Anybody , look at these pics and tell me if this is normal the oil build up under the diff please. Seems to me I use to see this on my old 59 Chevy LOL But is it normal after 3 years on the Trike? The second pic is running my finger nail on it to show how much. Jeff [ATTACH]64918[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64919[/ATTACH]
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Hey All: I just stopped by my local Advance Auto Parts here on Ole Lynchburg, VA and discovered that they had a special on Mobile 1 Syn - 15-50. Been using this since I got my Venture and change every 4000. Deal is: Buy 5 qts. (I know it only hold 3.5 during changes) and you get a Mobil Filter for free. I have been using the Mobile M-108 since I got the Venture. No problems with Oil or Filter since I got the Venture. I DO NOT want to start another Oil discussion. Just letting those who use this producet know about the deal. All in cost is $32.99 plus tax here in Ole Virginia. 5 qts oil at $5.20 each and 1 Filter at $6.99. Saved $23.95 versus retail price. OK. So I save some $$$ now and have 1.5 qts ahead for the next change whick will be a little saving then! Offer is till end of Month here. Not sure about other places... FYI...
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Hi, fellas. If you followed up on my last post, you know that I dragged home another project. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65645 Now here is my question: Did Yamaha use a special break-in oil, or should I just dump in whatever I plan to run in the future? I like synthetic, since these things don't leak, but with less than 100 miles, I'm afraid the break-in period will be affected by the extra slipperiness of the synthetic stuff. Maybe some plain ol' dino oil for the first couple changes, then synth? Oh, yeah... Here's a pic. Not a great shot, but you get the idea. Once again, thank you for your time and wisdom. Bert
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What I found owning 2 30 year old bikes, you can't find a dealer to work on anything older than 2000. For anyone in Hampton Roads Virginia area Sunrise Cycle in Norfolk will work on them. Well only on the off season (Sept to February). http://www.sunrisecycle.com/ Today I did my progressives & I had to go out & get fork oil. I asked the parts Mgr a question about how to do something & he walked me into the service area to talk to a tech. The tech not only answered my question but went through the entire procedure with me. (All I bought was fork oil) That's when I asked him if they worked on old bikes, expecting a "no" answer. It's good to find a dealer willing to work on any year make of what they sell!
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No, I didn't drop it or break it in any way! Caution: Long Bonehead Post Traded in the Roadstar and picked up my new (to me) 2002 Venture today. I went over the bike with the salesman and thought I had it figured out pretty well. Just getting out of town and an unfamiliar green light came on (on the left side of the dash). Bright day and me without my reading glasses interpreted this as an oil light !!! (Started with "O" and had two more letters/characters) Went back to the sales guy and told him the oil light was coming on intermittantly. We checked the oil level (OK) so he agreed to replace the oil level sensor (Had to be that, right?). By the time I left town again and rode another few miles, I began to see a pattern of when the light would come on - always in fifth. D'oh - Overdrive light!!! Embarrasing to have to email the guy when I got home a couple of hours later and tell him he could cancel the order for the part - especially since he had agreed to fix it on their nickel! To make things even better, after my first return to the shop when I first discovered the "oil light" problem, I decided to try out the radio and listen to some music for the ride home. Figured out how to turn it on and found a station. Worked Ok for a few minutes and then I started getting intermittant loud static. WTF!! First an oil light sending unit and now a screwed up radio. (I hadn't figured out the O/D thing yet) I was a little pissed and returned to the sales guy and told him about the radio. This guy was great but (like me) was not intimately familiar with the Venture. He agreed that something was screwey and said that they would replace the unit inside the fairing!! The parts were ordered (oil sensor and parts for the radio). As I said, these guys are great when it comes to customer satisfaction and service!! By the time I got home, I had figured out the oil light thing and sent an email with my apologies and told him not to bother ordering the part. Started thinking about the radio... Seemed like it might have been an intermittant grounding issue so I started playing with it after I got home; checking antenna grounds and wiggling the wire from the control unit. I could neither induce the static noise nor stop it by any action, including giving the fairing a gentle thump. Sounded like radio interference...??? Funny thing - I never had a bike with a CB system on it but after I thought about it for awhile, I began to wonder what would happen if a CB transmission came in over the radio station. (was thinking there may have been a fault so there was some cross-talk) D'oh again!! Just realized that in my attempt to get the system operating and tuned while riding, I had managed to turn on the CB (hadn't realized it could run at the same time as the rest of the audio)! Next step was to RTFM (Read The F***ing Manual). Next step after that was to send the sales guy another apologetic email explaining that he really didn't have to order the radio parts, either!! In my defence, I doubt that anyone on earth could figure out the Venture audio system without at least a sneak peek at the manual. This brings me to a question... The bike did not come with an owner's manual. I figured out the radio thing with some help from a downloaded manual (from a link posted on this site). The PDF of the owner's manual is not printable. Does anybody have a link to a version that has printable pages? My only other "issue" is the clutch "ring/whistle/chirp". I will look into it a bit before I make any further complaints. Three major embarrassments in one day would be just too many. Unfortunately, I understand that this is a "known" issue and it is something I will likely have to live with (or pay a lot of money to fix). Maybe the sales guy will fix/replace the clutch for free since it didn't cost him anything for the oil light and audio?? (maybe not) G'night Ross
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So you just acquired an old Venture/Venture Royale. Stop right there Mister! Unless you heard it running, and even if you did, there are things you need to know before it travels another 10 yards, unless you are pushing it. The 1983-93 Ventures are among the most reliable and best handling Full Dress Tourers of their era. There are, however, things to know and do if you want to get anywhere close to the legendary 250k miles on it. The Venture, especially the earlier 1200 had very few real issues, but there are two things to check before you proceed. The first is the rear subframe that had a nasty habit of cracking under stress. Check all around the rear suspension, and clean off the oily bits so you can assure yourself this is not a problem with the one you have. The later models do not have this problem. Second gear is weak too on those bikes. If you rode it and it jumped out of second under acceleration, then yours is suffering. You have two choices. You can use the info on this site and in the Manual to rebuild the transmission, or you can change straight from first to third and forget about it. Other than that, any foibles are minor and are associated more with age than anything else. Before you even shell out the hard-earned there are a number of things easily checkable. Good plastic parts are rare and expensive. Repairing cracks in fairings, replacing broken tabs isn’t difficult, but it is time-consuming and should be reflected in the price. The engines are pretty bullet-proof. Like with cars, it is the bodywork that sells these bikes and top dollar should only ever be paid for one with a fairing and cases that are close to perfect. There is lots of pain doing it any other way. If the bike comes with lots of verifiable service history then the mileage is irrelevant. If it doesn’t then you need to do some work before it runs. You can check that the coolant is topped up and clean before you buy. If it is low, or gone, or brown then you have a neglected pile of iron, and bid accordingly. Be aware that coolant leaks can all be fixed, at a price. I know this because mine leaked coolant everywhere, and it cost me to fix it. O-rings at $3 apiece are a minor purchase, until you start counting just how many of them there are! If the cooling system is in good order then the fan will fully control the temperature within the green zone in any weather, at a standstill. Some early bikes had poorly calibrated temp. gauges and they climb nearly to the red, but they should never actually get there. If the gauge reaches the red zone, then a cooling system rebuild will be needed (and some of it should be done anyway). Draining, flushing, cleaning out the radiator and physically cleaning the smaller pipes is a must. Sediment gathers there and flushing won’t shift it. Once that is done, regularly changing the coolant and flushing will keep it clean. Now we can keep it cool, we can think about getting it hot. Before that the oil and filter need changing, and the air filter needs cleaning and/or replacing. K&N make one which can be had for around $50 with careful shopping. You will never need another. If your bike came with one, have a beer to celebrate. When you change the oil for the first time, what comes out will tell you much about the bike’s history. Firstly, about three quarts should come out! It should not be black nor have any metal bits in it. Any “foam” … like mayo, around the filler, filter or anywhere else tells you that water is going where no water should ever go. Waterpump shaft seals, headgaskets and the frail cylinder head connectors can all leak and cause this. About those plastic pipe connectors. There are two of them. They do not come out in one piece and are about $20 each. Each has three of the aforementioned o-rings. Do the math. So the oil should be plentiful, free of slivery streaks and wrist pin clips, and dark but not too black. It should not have gasoline in it either (rare). If it is like that then change the filter and fill it up. Do not overfill it. About halfway up the sight glass is plenty. Anymore and it will be spraying through the breather and all over your beautiful new air filter. Have another beer, you have a good motor. Leaks around the valve covers are common and not a big issue. Oil pouring out is a big issue. The original gaskets were poor but better replacements can be easily sourced. If any of the sixteen bolts holding the covers down is leaking, replace the rubber. If you try to tighten them down to fix a leak you will, over time, simply make it worse. If you are going to replace these gaskets then that is a good time to check the valve clearances. If they are uneven, especially if they are “tight”, then they need adjusting. This is fiddly but not hard and you can borrow the tool from members here. Replace the plugs and, if the plug wires are original, remove the caps and snip ¼” off the wire. Check the cap resistance. It should be 10k Ohms. Trying to fix dodgy caps is fraught with difficulties. I would get new ones. Moving on to the fuel supply. There is a hard to get to filter behind the fuel pump on the lower left of the bike. Change it. Cut the old one open and inspect the contents. A little bit of brown deposit is to be expected, but brown sludge or obvious rust means that the tank is suffering. Most of the tank can be cleaned on the bike there is enough access through the various ports. You did look down the filler for heavy rusting before you brought it home? It takes about five minutes to get the tank off my Triple, and about four hours (if you know what you are doing) to get the tank off the Venture. The petcock is likely to be stiff. Move it to “reserve” and leave it there. Use the gas gauge which is accurate, and carry a small MSR Fuel Bottle in the side case. That will get you a few miles if you run out. Be aware that leaking petcocks are a nightmare. Rebuilding one with new filters and seals will cost around $40. A new one can be had from about $54 up to $75, depending on where you buy. While you are down there, the gas pipe has a very sharp bend and could be quite close to needing replacing. While you were doing all of that charge the battery. If it looks old it probably is. Have it load tested or replace it. So …. We have fresh oil, fresh gas, new plugs and no obvious signs of distress. The coolant is clean and topped off and the battery charged. Turn the key, wait a couple of seconds and hit the starter. Unless it’s cold you will need little or no choke. Leave the throttle completely alone until the engine is running. Run the engine for no more than fifteen seconds then shut it off. Now feel each of the exhaust headers, carefully. They should all be warm. If one or more remains cold then the respective cylinder(s) are not firing. If they are all warm, then start it up again. Go quickly around the bike as it warms up looking for anything amiss. What you do not want to see are oil, fuel or coolant leaks. There will be a bit of smoke as it warms, but not much. There should be none from the exhaust. While we are on the exhaust …. One in poor shape will cost. Just the gaskets in the system add up to a hefty $100 if you need to replace them all. The collector can rot out, and it can rattle. The rattle can be ignored or fixed later. If the joints around the collector leak then it will need fixing. This is one to check before you buy because it’s a good negotiating point. Check out all the electrical components while it is warming up. Lights, flashers, horn etc. With luck they all work and the motor will warm until the fan cuts in. Let it cycle a couple of times before you shut it down. Check again for leaks. Yeah, I know you want to ride it but you can’t yet. Have a beer. We have checked that it will go but we haven’t ensured that it will stop. Tires should be less than ten years old (they have a date code) and free of any cracking. You are pushing 800lbs down the road on them and they need to be good. It goes without saying that they should have sufficient tread. Check the brake pads for thickness and freedom from oil. If the fork seals have blown then fork oil easily makes it onto the calipers. It’s obvious and needs fixing before you ride. Check rotors for thickness and that they are not binding. There should be no signs of brake fluid leaking anywhere, and the fluid should be changed. Check that the steering bearings are not obviously worn. While we are on the subject of hydraulic fluid, change the clutch fluid too J Now you can go for a ride. Just a few careful miles is enough. Check that the handling is not too strange … it should track true and not meander. The suspension should be compliant and not induce nausea causing your lunch to end up all over the instruments. The brakes should stop you in a straight line and the gears shift fairly smoothly. If your ride checks out okay and it doesn’t leak all over the driveway when you get back, then you have the makings of a great motorcycle so … Have a beer to celebrate. There is a whole bunch of stuff not included here. There are some minor fixes that are likely to be needed to things like the starter motor and electrical items. There is lots of information on the site to help. If you fell at any of the hurdles above, then there is an issue that needs resolving. All I tried to do here was go through a routine that would get you up and running safely. Above all, have fun, and lots of beer but not before a ride. Others will chip in to add stuff I missed, and correct mistakes I made but I hope this helps. -
anyone here change the fork oil using the method by freebird?? how much of a pain was it and what kind of oil did you use ?? getting ready for spring maint. and been thinking this would be a good one to do. like i need more fluids to flush and fill...lol
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The Beast started pissing coolant yesterday. I tracked it down to a pin-hole leak in the large hose on top of the front head. While messing with it I removed the radiator cap and found it covered in 'milkshake' goop. Obviously I have oil leaking into the cooling system. All of the coolant that leaked out yesterday was nice and clean. Any suggestions would be appreciated about now . . .
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Im changing my oil tmmrw morning...Any tips on filters,oil type..etc. I would really appreciate it(my first time on this bike)
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I've found this forum to be extremely helpful...payment was made last weekend and I'm now a supporting member. Slowly but surely, I'm knocking out the to do list on the 83 Venture. Unfortunately, new things are getting added to the list too. It's also a little inconvenient for me to work on the bike during the week. My garage is chock full, so the bike is at a friend's house. All the pictures here have been resized small for quick loading even on dial up or smartphone users. As of now, including purchase price, I've got about $450.00 invested in the bike. The newest thing that got added to the list is another oil leak. grrrr. Attached is a pic of where it's coming from. It's leaking at the plug just behind the sight glass for the oil level. I've snugged it up a little and the leak has slowed down. According to the microfiche, it's part # 4H7-15189-00-00 (15 on the diagram). What the diagram doesn't show is if there is anything under the plug. If I pull this plug to replace the o-ring, am I going to have parts come flying out at me or am I going to have to re-align something, or am I simply over thinking the issue. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/oil%20leak3.jpg Next on the original list was electrical. The fuse box was shot, so I replaced it. I just need to get a buss bar for the accessory circuit. Currently I just jumpered the only wire attached to the buss to the accessory fuse (green wire on new fuse box) I need to cut a piece of aluminum to the size of the original fuse box, drill it for the hold down screw and then attach the new fuse box and buss bar to it in order to securely mount it in the stock location. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/fuse%20before2.jpg http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/fuse%20after2.jpg On the original list was brakes. They were shot and the rear master cylinder was frozen. Got the rear master cylinder cleaned out and working, fortunately without the $70.00 rebuild kit, and now I just need to get the system filled and bled...ran out of brake fluid last Sunday when I was working on the bike and the auto parts store was closed by the time I found out that I needed more brake fluid. Also on the original list, but something that I didn't think was overly important is the computerized monitor. I know that it's somewhat important because of the oil pressure and other indicators, but since everything appeared to be functional, I didn't have it high on the priority list...until I noticed that the headlight wasn't working all the time. I thought it was a dirty dimmer switch or a loose connection. Reading on here that the headlight runs through this monitor, this has moved up on the priority list. I'll pull it apart and resolder everything. Hopefully that will get it working correctly. If not, the bike is getting a mechanical oil pressure gauge and the headlight will be straight wired through a relay. I know the idle speed is low. The bike has developed a miss in the front left cylinder at idle, but it clears up once the RPMs hit about 1500. I have new spark plugs and wires for it now...just have to put them in. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/dash%20error2.jpg My friend George, whose garage the bike is in, will be doing the bodywork soon and I'll do the painting. I just have to decide on the color. It's currently Harley Davidson Orange. I hate orange. I'm leaning towards a medium/light blue or grey. http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/body%20parts2.jpg It looks pretty rough without it's clothes on http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/naked%20venture2.jpg I want to get this bike done and rideable by the end of March. I have 2 other projects that I want to get done before summer... My 73 Suzuki GT550 needs a top end and a repaint.... http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/gt5502.jpg And George's son has a 72 Kawasaki S2 that I need to go through and get running... http://www.3cyl.com/jeff/venture/s22.jpg -
For you guys that put a little SF in the oil, how much is the right amount in the RSV?
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I see that some members are adding as per instructions from the mg. of seafoam 1&1/2 oz. per qt. in with the oil to clean up the sludge in the engine. My question is do you leave the seafoam in for 5000 miles or until the oil is dirty or do you run the engine a short time and immediately remove the seafoam and oil replacing same.?? DanC
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I was loading my 86VR on the motorcycle trailer and did not notice the front of it was to low to the ground which made a hump where the ramp meets the trailer and when I was riding the bike up the bottom of the oil filter housing on the engine caught it and took a chunk out of it. I will have to wait till I have a day off to drain the oil again and see how bad it is. I hope I did not ruin the block. Tom
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I want to remove the carb from my 83 because the jets are plugged. I cant get the lines loose on it because its cold out, and i dont want to ruin any of the rubber hoses. Whats a good way to get the hoses off without tearing them? I was thinking about some penetrating oil, WD 40, or a hair drier. What are some suggestions that you guys have that could possibly help me. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!! -CJ
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Hi all. My 99 developed an oil leak from the rear valve cover a few months ago. Its now to the point I need to take care of it. I figure if I have to take all that stuff off to fix the leak, I might as well do the valves, although not looking forward to it. So now Im looking for a shim kit and tool to do the job. If anyone has one they can lend me I would certainly appreciate it. Bill -
A while back I had to order some things from a online Motorsports place. While I was on the site I noticed that they sold oil filters for XV1200TDVENTURE 85-86. They are made by a company named Filtrex and claim on their packaging to be O.E.M. suppliers for Japanese motorcycle companies. They look to be very well made filters when compared to other I have purchased. Being my shelf supply was getting low I ordered 2. I went to put one on yesterday and I couldn't get the mounting bolt through the hole in the center being it was a hair to large and would pull the sealing rubber free from the filter. Lubing it up didn't help at all. My question is this isn't the 1200 & 1300 mounting bolt the same size?
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Seems I now have a '99 pogo stick
wes0778 posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I guess ALL the oil is now out of my rear shock. This is NO FUN!!! A good while back, someone posted a cut-a-way drawing of the shock. Can anyone help me find that post? I'm wondering about drilling into the shock to make a "refill" hole. Yeah I know the oil will just leak back out, but in my case it seems to leak slowly, as I have suspected my shock was dying for almost a year now. I'm just thinking maybe I could add oil before each trip. Circumstances right now are such that a new shock is out of the question. -
HELP!!!! you dont know how luckly we are to 1st ride a RSTD and to have a site like this, with people who will help you with yr situations. (well almost anything). I have a 06 RSTD 82k the AIS has oil leaking from around the the AIS Box?? Help????? what can I do to fix the situation. I have never removed it . But need to be cleaned and stop the oil. thanks,, -
I have a 94 Saturn SC2 with 175K miles. I'm the second owner since 50K miles. The Saturn has been receiving routine maintenance. In the last week I would feel an occasional electricial miss. Well I got new plugs and wire. It does not have a distributor cap nor a rotor. As I was installing the new plugs and wire this is what I uncovered. I replaced the plug about 30K miles ago but the wires I do not believe ever been replaced. 4 of the 2 wire where it connects to the coil/or whatever end, the wire cap was all croded really bad. The other 2 of the 4 were quite shiny. On the Spark Plug end 3 of the 4 plugs seemed fairly white rather than light tan. Maybe that is normal these days for electronic ignition. The 1 plug was all covered in oil. When I cleaned the oil off the plug looked quite clean where I was expecting it to be black with a lot of crude. Questions 1) What would cause 2 of the 4 wires to be extrememly croded at the coil end ( full of white residue). 2) What would cause the 1 spark plug to be soaked in what looks like fresh oil.
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Went out to work on the bike today, to check on all of the little things that have been bugging me. After finshing up, just before putting my side cover back on i noticed an oil leak which appears to be coming from the head gasket. About a month ago(some of you may recall), i had my oil changed and went on a 300 mile day trip. a few days later i went to check my oil and could not see the oil level through the site glass. It turned out that they had overfilled the oil. I drained it to the appropriate level and have ridden it for a month without any issues. My question is: Could this have been enough to blow a head gasket? There appears to be oil around the rubber carb boots as well.
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