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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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After synchronizing the carb’s within 10 mmHg (each column) using the Carbtune Pro (at an idle between 1,000 – 1,100 RPM) on a 2006 RSTD the engine idle then randomly fluctuates between 730 and 1750 RPM’s. Obviously, when this change in idle speed occurs the previous adjustment (in vacuum) to match all columns exceeds 10mmHg. You can adjust the idle adjust screw to change the engine idle speed but this adjustment does nothing to stop the idle speed from randomly changing. What could be causing this to occur? Thanks 2 Flights -
I'd like your thoughts on mini floor pegs for the forward engine guards. Do they help, are they available?
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We are always told that a car has an engine not a motor. This based on the fact that a motor runs on electricity and an engine is a based on internal combustion. So why is it called a motorcycle not an enginecycle
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I have had a few inquiries on my MPG since the bikes rebuild. Rode 158.7 miles between fillups today and used 3.705 gallons. Sunoco, 93 octane gas. 42.83 MPG. 1300 cc engine, Vmax heads, FJR rear end. No v-boost. Carbs are from original 1200 engine. Carb mains re-jetted to 140. Needle jets are now set at .102", increased from setting of .072" due to nasty hesitation around 6,500 RPM's. Ride was through rural areas with very moderately hilly terrain, number of small towns. Lot of curvy roads. Very gentle ride around 55 mph for most part with very minimal hard acceleration. Riding solo. I am very happy with this. Gary
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83 VR I have never rode this, got it non-running. Was told clutch was bad so replaced friction plates first thing, during assembly, could see plates spread out during clutch lever pull. Then had major engine problems, and had to remove engine. Now engine back in, runs-sounds soo good, feeling good. Put just enough back together to put seat on and go for test ride. Down off stand, idling, brake on, clutch in, kick down to 1st,clutch out....stall:crying: Then I couldn't put it back in neutral:mad:. Up/down/up/down/all the way up-4 down, no neutral. Finally saw neutral light come on nearly all the way up. HA. shifter backwards, easy fix:happy65:. No one ever done that, right? Now current problem, still no clutch release. bleed/beed/bleed/././. bleed with mity vac, pulled clutch slave, found torn dust seal-not likely problem but rebuilt slave, bleed/bleed/./..., bleed master banjo, bleed master with finger and hose off, tried handle tieback all last night, bleed/bleed/bleed. Feels like good pressure with finger on master-sprays around finger, but down at slave when cracking bleeder fluid comes out in stream but does not spray as in normal bleeding. any suggestions?
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Hi every one. "As we are coming into winter, the mornings are cold. " One morning I went to get food and found radiator fluid leaking from one of the drain plugs. It was on the right front side of the engine today I worked on the bike and found that the left rear is also leaking. My question is can I just pull them out and reseat them or should I replace them Thanks
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Does anyone have or can tell me where to get a right side (clutch cover) Engine cover? I sure could use one. You can PM me if you like. Thanks! -
Made some minor mods. What do you think?
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When I was young :rotfl:I could remember my dad saying your engine is not broken in until you reach 60,000 miles and then you other bikers say geez you r scoot bearly broken with 55,000 miles. So you smart A**** out there, when is an engine broken in And What is broken in (the rings settling in I guess)
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We're having an issue with the 2002 Intrepid (2.7L V6) my daughter drives. Sometimes (and becoming more frequent) when accelerating from slow speed or stop there is a massive hesitation. The RPMs might rise a little bit but then acceleration stops and the tach stays steady. I can hear the intake noise from the open throttle plate but there is no power. No perceptible stumble, just no power. If the pedal is released the engine idles fine. After 15 seconds or so everything straightens out and it runs great. The service engine light seems to be non functional. The OBDII is showing five codes, four for the four oxygen sensor heater circuits and one for a multi cylinder misfire. I'm assuming the multi cylinder misfire is being set when we see the hesitation. My understanding is that the O2 heater circuits should not create a driveability issue. For those of you that have been around outboard boat motors: The engine sounds just like when you open the throttle butterflies on an outboard without pushing the linkage that works the spark advance. There is the BWAAAA of intake noise but little RPM increase and no power. I had similar behaviour with a Virago where the TCI was not advancing the timing. So I suspect the hesitation is being caused by a failing PCM not advancing the ignition timing. Of course the problem is intermittent enough there is little chance of verifying that with a timing light. Appreciate any feedback on my reasoning or alternative thoughts. Thanks.
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I would like to listen to radio on my RSTD. I bought an IMC intercom which has a radio connection. I ran the wire under the fuel tank to my handlebars, so I could mount my iphone and use it for internet radio. It works, but only sitting still. It has so much engine noise in it that you cannot hear the radio. I'm interested in what others do.
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Well my 2001 has a bit of a whine. Not to bad but enough to let you know it's there. About 60 in 4th. Seems to be worse with a little acceleration. When the engine is not under pressure it is quite. It kinda forces me into 5th earlier than I want but my Venture seems to do fine in 5th at about 45. I just don't accelerate very hard or I down shift and put up with the whine. I read all the post about Motorkote and thought I would give it a try. I had a oil leak from a bad gasket in the middle gear so I replaced it. I topped off the oil (which had about 1500 miles on it) with 7 oz of Motorkote. I can not tell any difference in the intensity or the frequency (RPM's) of the whine. The engine does seem to be running smoother and it sifts easier but no difference in the whine. My next oil change I will switch to synthetic motor oil and put about 8 more oz of Motorkote. Hopefully the clean oil and fresh Motorkote will do the trick. I did run the bike pretty hard to test the Motorkote to make sure it did not cause my clutch to slip since Motorkote is a friction modifier and no slipping.
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Basem's Motorcycles Blog By Basem Wasef, About.com Guide to Motorcycles My Bio My Blog My Forum Add to: iGoogle My Yahoo! RSS U.S. Government to Limit Motorcycle Engine Output to 75 Horsepower Thursday April 1, 2010 http://z.about.com/d/motorcycles/1/0/H/2/0/-/big_engine_310.jpg Acting preemptively in light of the European Union's recent push towards limiting motorcycle horsepower to 100, Congress has quietly passed a transportation bill that will cap motorcycle engine output at 75 hp. At a press conference today, DOT spokesman Melvin P. Meyers announced that "We can't lag behind Europe's progressive stance towards two-wheeled moderation." The bill not only limits the horsepower of current and future motorcycle models, it retroactively applies to any registered bike on the road, and will take effect as early as January, 2011. "In the interest of public safety," Meyers explains, "law enforcement officials will clamp down on any and all motorcyclists who violate the law." The bill outlines numerous electronic and mechanical implements that reduce engine output. For instance, fuel-injected powerplants will be fitted with revised engine management chips and/or throttle bodies, while older carbureted bikes will have a reduction gear attached to the throttle assembly. At the discretion of state police, mobile dynamometers may be utilized for field tests. Both the Motorcycle Industry Council and the American Motorcyclist Association have lobbied against the bill, in addition to most manufacturers including Aprilia, BMW, Ducati, Honda, Kawasaki, KTM, Suzuki, Triumph, and Yamaha. There has been no comment from Harley-Davidson, though Forbes reports that Harley stock has jumped 12 percent on the announcement.*
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Still naked as a jay bird but got it running tonight. Started, ran & idled fairly good for what its been through. Stripped to frame, new engine, heads and a ton of other stuff. I so happy I could just poop. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5560s.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5561s.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5562s.jpg
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So who does a guy go to when he's built a custom rig like a trike or sidecar and needs a fiberglass body or shell made for it? Are there some tricks or simple equipment for the DIY'er so he can doe it himself? I've been putting a lot of thought into building a Tri-Car using my 83 VR and a VW engine and trans-axle. I'm sure I could put it together, but have no idea how to make fiberglass body panels. Any advice?
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I have an 08 RSTD. After riding , i get one drop of oil from directly beneath engine , any ideas?
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I am just now reassembling my 86 VR after much TLC over the winter. Question: has anyone left the black air dampers off the engine? {just on top of the valve covers}. Any reason to use them? I want to thank all the technical contributers here for their work, it has helped alot on my project! The list.... removed fairings and fixed all the plastic cracks with epoxy and "glass,and repainted fixed class computer rebuilt the suspension/bushings with the zerks, lubed shaft etc removed the stereo/cb and all related components and replaced the plastic covers with stock non-VR parts [about 30 lbs of stuff} replaced the seat with aftermarket {bought used from here} replaced fork seals and front brakes replaced the pipes with new Macs {bought here} adjusted valves,tuned,carbsync etc I only rode the bike once after buying it last fall... so I am itching to get going! Thanks, Gary
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First I would like to thank everyone for taking the time to share their ideas and experiences. I am a new (to me) 08 RSTD owner. I have read with great enthusiasm the many posts about engine oil here. My question is: Are the different engine oils talked about here assumed to be motorcycle oil, or regular engine oil? For that matter, what IS the difference between motorcycle and engine oil (other than about $4.00 a quart)? Thanks again for having such a great place to share ideas and gain information. Nico
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Any one know where the camshaft sensor on a 4.6 engine is located, can use help to point a friend on locating it. thanks for your time
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i have checked what has been suggested and what i can see all is where it is supposed to be and doing what it should. the fluid is a medium colored carmel color and is full. not having worked on a bike in awhile, i could be missing something. on a stand, if i go from neutral through the gears (engine running) the tranny makes quite a bit of noise as i progress up to 4th. it made enough noise, i went back to neutral and turned it off. i changed the engine oil about 60 miles ago just after a rear tire change, which is good. I have been having shifting problems since. on a side note while changeing the engine oil and i don't remember why i was going to do this, but i loosened a cover to see what was behind it. the cover is on the left side, back one. i got the bolts loose, but the cover did not want to come off. i got distracted and wound up finishing the oil change. then i cranked the bike. while idling in neutral, i remembered that cover. it was barely oozing oil. i tightened up the bolts and cleaned the 2 drops of oil. I don't know what is behind that cover, but that may be my souce of trouble. any suggestions on adjustments? after i post this, i am gonna go to the stealer for clutch fluid in case changing the fluid is suggested. the previous owner used yama fluid for everything, so i know what to get. I will check this thread afterwhile.
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here is a picture of my grandparents Harold and Mildred Eykamp taken in the 1940's in Oregon Illinois can you put a date, engine size, and manufacture on the motorcycle? good luck, mike
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I think I wasted 3 riding seasons on the 02 Nomad we had. This RSV is a much more refined ride. A pleasure in and around towns and stuff. The Nad was a bit of a pig. I always hated the engine noise at slow speeds. I spent a lot of time and effort to get it sorta wind free. Engine guard chaps, wider windscreen, larger lowers. In the end I was wanting a trunk. And then it left me stranded 800 kms from home with a broken tranny. I filled the air shock today. 30 psi. Way nicer handling now. Even with the stock tires. It lifted me in the seat so that I can actually see a little better over the ShowChrome windscreen I installed. It's a bit windy at 150 kph but I don't ride that fast normally Gonna change out the tires here shortly. Need some thoughts on that. How many kms you guys get per tank? I put in 20 liters today @ 276 kms. Isn't the tank 22 liters? There's lots of rpms so I don't believe in wasting them and like to pull hard thru the gears.I get a slight tingle in my feet and hands when I do. Does anyone else get that? It's kinda like a buzz as opposed to a vibration. I also installed a Utopia backrest...God bless the guys who recommended that! It's worth every penny! All in all it was a great ride the missus and I had today. Gerbing jackets are a godsend as well!
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This might be of interest to some of the 1st gen owners. I have one coming. 4 1/2 hour DVD video of the rebuild of a 1200 Vmax engine. Engines are very similar to Ventures. Buy it now price of $16.95 including shipping. VMax V Max Yamaha 1200cc engine assy. reference video Search on item # 310201385666 if link doesn't work. Gary
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Bongobobby got the last CDI I was after, he didn't know I was bidding on it at the time. I really need this, last major part I need for my engine upgrade. 1986 CDI on Ebay from Florida seller. Gary
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Do any of you know what year Yamaha started painting the 1300 engine? I've seen several pics of Ventures without the Black painted engine, but mine is painted. craigr
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