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SilvrT

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Everything posted by SilvrT

  1. SilvrT
    There is a thing called "flash-off time" ... it's usually around 5 - 15 minutes that you wait until applying the next coat. If you allow the coats to dry (ie maybe 3 or 4 hours or more), then another coat will not adhere properly so you have to "scuff up" the surface (sanding). I recommend applying all the color coats at once, allowing only enuf "flash-off time" between the coats. Let that dry thoroughly and then sand as I suggested before the clear coat. The sanding process before the clear will "scuff" the surface of the color coat so that the clear can bond to it. The reason I suggest that is because while you are applying the color coats, you are also "building up" the roughness of the surface. Letting the color coats dry and then wet sanding smooth will produce a better, smoother clear coat.
  2. SilvrT
    Currently I'm using cheapo Fram (which many, including myself don't care for) because I'm too lazy to seek out a better one LOL but come next oil change I will be looking for something better...not sure exactly what yet.
  3. SilvrT
    Although I'm not Owen, I have had a lot of experience with "rattle can paint". 800 wet or dry sandpaper (done with slightly soapy water) will probably suffice, Make sure you keep the sandpaper flushed with water lots and don't press too hard. When you think you've sanded enough, sand a bit more and then wipe it clean and let dry so you can tell where you need to sand more. Apply 2-3 color coats After the color coat has dried, sand it the same way using 1200 grit or higher before applying the clear.
  4. SilvrT
    considering where you live I'd suggest 10w40 Amsoil is a good choice
  5. SilvrT
    Welcome! ... you're gonna get a lot of variances to this one coz it's somewhat of a "personal choice". Shell Rotella T diesel 15w40 is one ... Amsoil synthetic is another ... the list goes on but frankly, I've tried at least 4 different types with varying weights (10w40, 15w40, 20w50, etc) and none really make much difference to the "chirp" IMHO.
  6. SilvrT
    cool! 19/20 on Road Signs 16/20 on Collision Traps (some of those are tricky...)
  7. SilvrT
    Interesting! ... I looked all over their website and could not see anything that looked like that. Must be a base model with some accessories bolted on.
  8. SilvrT
    just the other day I was standing outside my building where I work downtown Vancouver and 3 RSV's went by plus a wing and a V* ... obviously out of towners on a holiday. There are getting to be more and more of them around here it seems. Or maybe I'm just noticing them more now that I have an RSV....
  9. SilvrT
    all I can say is... if I had started this thread, NOBODY would have opened it!
  10. SilvrT
    New=never sold Non-current= not the current model ( I guess )
  11. SilvrT
    I notice they also have an '08 suzuki C109R .... anyone know anything about these bikes?? ... anyone ride one?? I looked at one at a dealer one day and my first thought was.... geeeez ... the handlebars sure seems flimsy (small diameter) for such a monster cruiser.
  12. SilvrT
    Somehow I missed reading this thread and am just getting into it now (albeit not that old). Seems a little more than heated engine exhaust is flyin around LOL! FACT #1: The AIS injects air into the hot exhaust gas when it exits the cylinder (yes/no?) FACT #2: A leak in the exhaust system prior to the muffler will "suck in" (aka induct) air into the hot exhaust. FACT #3: The result of FACT #2 WILL cause backfiring on deceleration. I know this to be a FACT because that is what happens when the exhaust collector on a 1st gen has holes in it and when you repair that, ... no more backfire. OPINION: FACT #1 and FACT #2 have similarities and therefore BOTH could cause FACT #3 (yes/no?) The difference between FACT #1 and FACT #2 is that in #1 the air is induced at the header pipe and therefore does not accumulate as much and also the "backfiring" occurs at that point whereas in FACT #2 the air is induced closer to the muffler, accumulates in the muffler, the "backfiring" occurs there, and is much more evident (louder). (just my "factual" $0.05 cents of "logical opinion")
  13. SilvrT
    nope
  14. SilvrT
    Any decals, large or small, will be much easier to work with if you use soapy water. You don't need a lot of soap...just a wee bit. If you get a bubble that you can't work out (and you will get those), use a very sharp, pointed razor blade knife such as an Xacto and puncture the bubble and then work out any air that was trapped. Decals do not lend themselves well to compound curves so try to stay away from those.
  15. SilvrT
  16. SilvrT
    Personally I would think a novice should use the SLPR method and I'd guess I use that most times; however, I find the SLRP method more used when I am entering a curve that I cannot initially see all the way but when I can and I'm not yet into the corner, I have Slowed and Looked, then I will Roll (to speed up coz I know I can take it faster) and then Press to turn into the corner. I probably also use the SLRP (excluding the "S") when negotiating a corner that I am familiar with, assuming I am approaching that corner at a speed less than I know I can take it at. SLPR would be similar to driving a cage where you slow for the curve, start the turn, and then power thru and out of the turn. Did I make any sense out of that? LOL
  17. SilvrT
    Great pics!! ... curious about that Victory ... is that a stock model or did the guy customize it? Looks cool...wayyyyy nicer than the "Vision".
  18. SilvrT
    In most cases where the things you love about something/someone are far greater than the things you hate, one learns to focus on the former and the latter tends to "go away". I too find that the only thing I dislike about my RSMV is the clutch basket "whine", but I am learning to ignore it, focusing on all it's other great aspects, the enjoyment of the ride, the scenery, etc, etc ... in so doing, I am not noticing that "downside" so much anymore. I experimented with this concept a few times and found that if I focused on the whine...it got worse and worse to the point I just wanted to get off the bike ... then I woud shift my focus to those many other things ... and voila`.... it was as if the whine "went away". (in reality, it didn't) Granted, this won't work for everyone but maybe it's something you could try before you make that decision.
  19. SilvrT
    AWESOME job there Sonny ... that's one very unique scoot now ... something I think all of us aspire to (making our scoot unique) :thumbsup2: That "marbelizing" useto be known as "saran wrap mural" and it's something I did a few times back in the day when I had a body/paint shop. One of these days I'll scan some pics of the jobs I did and post them. That was around 1981. Prior to that (around 1972) I had done a "lace" job down the side of a 58 Dodge ... sure set it apart! GREAT JOB!
  20. SilvrT
    To expand upon the idea ... one guy has a "spare" basket .... he sends it to "Bob" .. "Bob" tries it ... it either works or it doesn't, regardless, his original whined so he sends his (now a spare) to "Fred" ... "Fred swaps it out and send his on to whoever...maybe back to "Bob" if his is still whining. Not sure how payment for baskets would work but I'm still "imagining" this ... something like the "Ride Like a Pro" DVD swap idea I suppose although I haven't really delved into how that is done.
  21. SilvrT
    I'd say the pic alone tells it all .... IT'S TOO SMALL. Imagine an RSV sitting on it (and the size of the RSV) ... now put that scale into perspective.... that would be one monster trailer having 30+ inch wheels!
  22. SilvrT
    I've been wondering....since the swap out of the baskets is such a "hit and miss" situation and under warranty it apparently can only be done once ... if there is an opportunity here for those interested to have a "clutch basket swap" whereby we swap clutch baskets back and forth and maybe eventually we'll all wind up with one that works. It's just a thought I had....no idea on the logistics/process of it, but I figgured if I had access to, let's say 10 clutch baskets and the odds were 1 in 5 that I'd get one that didn't whine, then I'd almost be willing to tackle the job on my own. The way I see it, any given clutch basket that whines on one bike might well mate better with the primary gear on a different bike and...problem solved! "Bob" might get it on the first swap wheras "Bill" might have to swap out 4 or 5 before getting a match.
  23. SilvrT
    I think he missed a zero or 2
  24. SilvrT
    to save a lot of reading, why can't they? venturerider.asia (for example) is a valid and available domain.... (inquiring minds want to know...)
  25. SilvrT
    If you do get a medal, then there's 3 that are owed to me!
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