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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    I'm sure it could be done, but the problem is probably finding a lacquer or clear coat that is both compatible with the existing coating and good for aluminum and the severe conditions of a motorcycle. I have not tried it, but I'd expect numerous trial and error attempts if I did. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Since I have no idea what bike you have, I'll just offer this word of caution - parts of 2nd gen rims are painted, either silver or black, and as far as I know just about all plain aluminum parts these days are lacquer coated to prevent oxidation, so any sanding and polishing will just make a mess. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    It is very hard to realistically compare tire mileage between different riders - there are just too many variables in riding styles and finesse on the clutch and throttle. What you CAN easily do is compare RELATIVE tire mileage between riders. That means that if rider #1 gets twice the miles on tire A as they do on tire B, then probably rider #2 will get around twice the miles from tire A compared to tire B. It does NOT mean that if rider #1 gets 10,000 miles on tire A, then anyone else can expect 10,000 miles on tire A. For the record, I get 14,000 miles from a rear Venom on my RSV (and about 28,000 miles from a front Venom). For comparison, I got 8,000 miles from the HORRIBLE stock Brickstone, around 10,000 miles from Dunlop D404 and Pirelli Route 66, 17,000 miles from the Dunlop E3, and I will NEVER EVER NOT EVER FOR ANY REASON even remotely consider putting a Metzeler POS on my bike. The Avon Venom is absolutely the best handling tire I have used on this bike. The E3 is not quite as good and more noisy. None of the others are even close in quality of handling. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    I'm too lazy to convert those numbers to MPH, but the answer is an unequivocal "yes". This engine is rock solid (except for Dave's), and it cruises at quite reasonable RPMs - it will happily do anything you can do, for longer than you can do it. On several occasions I have spent over 15 hours straight, the majority of that between 85 and 95 MPH. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    The only way to really tell would be to check the air in one fork several times in a row to see of the pressure changed. I personally don't think I would use anything but a zero-loss chuck on the forks, but if I could test the pressure in one fork five times without losing any pressure with that gauge, I might change my mind. I know that at least 50% of the time I check the air in my tires, on the bike, truck or car, I often have to take a couple of stabs at it before I get a quick connection that is completely sealed, and that doesn't make any difference what kind of gauge I am using. Just too prone to error on those forks for me. Goose
  6. V7Goose

    Holy Cow

    V7Goose replied to Wizard765's topic in Watering Hole

    Yup, winter is definitely over. 82 degrees today, and I didn't even get a ride in - spent all day working on the yard and hoping the parts would arrive for the pool pump. Sigh Goose
  7. V7Goose
    That is an interesting measurement. I have leveling links on my RSV, and it also measures 13" from the chrome tip to the ground. I have no idea why the measurement from your bike would be the same as mine, but I certainly can see how sitting on an RSV with over-inflated forks and zero pressure in the rear would give you the sensation you described - it would squat terribly with a typical rider's weight on the seat. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Is the rear brake caliper on your bike above or below the swing arm? What is the measurement from the chrome tip on your rear fender to the ground while on the sidestand? It is true that the stock RSV has a bit of a "cruiser" stance where the rear sits just slightly lower than the front, but frankly, I have never heard of this being so pronounced to anybody as you make it sound - hence my comment that your perception is a bit unusual. Even after the rear links are changed to raise the rear, the bike doesn't look any different to most observers. Frankly, I cannot imagine anyone actually noticing that the lower frame rails are or are not level, even if the rear suspension has been modified. But of course the fact that I cannot imagine it doesn't mean squat. And while your perception of the bike may be a bit unusual, that does not necessarily mean it is wrong. But I do advise you to not jump to conclusions. Maybe you are looking at a stock bike, and maybe you are not. We can only help you based on the information you give us here. As for the air in the suspension - the rear shock has a maximum pressure of 57 lbs, so that can be checked with any gauge. Just make sure that any compressor you use to add air to the rear has been adjusted down to 60 lbs or less so you do not risk damage to the shock. I would suggest you start with the rear set around 30, and test any adjustments from there after you get used to the way it rides. The front forks have a max pressure of only 7 lbs. If you do not have the correct pump/gauge combination to adjust them, just make sure they have no air at all - this will be absolutely fine until you get the tool. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    I have no idea what that number is, but it AIN'T the DOT code. The DOT date code is a 4-digit code in an oval. And as was explained to you above, the first two digits are the week the tire was made, and the last two digits are the year. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    Hmmmm, never heard anybody say these bikes have lots of low-end grunt. As a mater of fact, some new owners complain that the bike seems a bit of a dog. But that is because they do not know how to ride it. These bikes have LOTS of power, but as noted above, you need to keep the revs up. If you try to ride it like a big twin, you will constantly lug the engine and wonder why it takes so long to build speed. You can cruise all day long at 40MPH in 5th gear, but you CANNOT accelerate (much) from there in 5th gear. If you are gonna grab a fist full of throttle in 5th, you better be running at least 65 or you are gonna feel a whole lotta shakin and hammerin. If you want to pick it up fast from 40, you will need to kick it down to 3rd. As for the carb heaters, they have no affect on startup at all. In fact, they are not even on unless the bike is in gear. As others have said, do not put in the full amount of oil called for in the owner's manual. IN a typical oil change, some oil is left trapped behind the middle gear cover and in the sump. Use the sight window (make sure the bike is straight up, not on the side stand) and do not fill the engine above the max fill mark. Some folks say not to fill it more than half way up the glass, but you will be fine as long as you can see some air bubble above the oil in the window. The owner's manual has a lot of good information, but some stupid things too - such as the amount of oil and unbelievably stupid shift points. But still good to have it, so if you did not get one with your bike, you can download it free from Yamahaha's web site. , and enjoy the bike, Goose
  11. V7Goose
    You can pick up an OEM type accessory plug with rubber cover at most auto parts stores. Pep Boys had two or three different versions last time I looked. I think I paid about $7 for one. On an RSV, the correct place for it is just behind the rider's seat on the left side (opposite the rear shock air stem). There is already the correct size hole there with a plug in it. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    While there are a lot of things I'd look for, there are only two major issues to check - 1. Make darn certain it does not have an engine (clutch basket) whine that you find objectionable. Note that the majority of these engines are NOT loud whiners, but a very few of them will make you wish you never bought it. If it does have a whine, it will be in a narrow RPM band, probably somewhere between 30-45 in 4th gear, but could be anywhere. This requires a good test ride where you carefully listen to the bike while holding the throttle fairly steady and gently changing engine speeds up and down. 2. Make certain there is NO (as in zero, none, zilch) oil on the bottom of the rear shock. That means not fresh oil or old oily road dirt. Any sign of oil down there at all, on the bottom of the shock or lower mounting bolt, means you will have to buy a very expensive replacement. If you see anything that looks like oil, do not believe any lies about normal blowback from the engine or vent tubes, etc. etc. etc. That shock will NEVER EVER show any oil unless it is bad. (Hmmm, wonder if I have said that enough?) Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Now, now, better watch the content - this is supposed to be a family site - I don't know where "hip-waiters" is going, but it's starting to sound a little dirty!
  14. V7Goose
    With the proper amount of oil in this engine, the sight glass will be EMPTY when the bike is on the sidestand. Your oil level is much too high,a nd you do need to drain some. As I explained in the post above, the engine does not "pump" oil out when it is overfilled, it just causes a lot of internal splashing that allows a lot of mist to be blown out the vent. If you do a lot of riding, you will begin getting a lot of dripping from those drains. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    First of all, this is pretty normal on a 2nd Gen. Second, there is nothing wrong with your vent tubes. Third, the primary cause IS an overfilled crankcase. The oil level sight window has a max level mark on the case next to it near the top of the window. In my experience it is NOT necessary to make sure the oil is never higher than mid window, but it IS necessary to make sure it is not OVER the max level mark. Basically, if you can see any air bubble above the top of the oil in the site window, you are fine. BTW - this issue is also why all 2nd gens that have decent miles or some long periods of high-speed highway running will show lots of oil grunge and dirt on the #1 carb (left rear). Here is what is going on: The crankcase vent runs from the top of the case between the cylinders up to a T connection between the two air plenums above the carbs. When the engine is running, this vent allows the positive pressure caused by the pistons moving down (and any compression blow-by) to push the extra air that contains lots of oil and gas fumes up into the intake to be burned instead of blown out to the air we breath. If the oil level in the engine is too high, the excess splashing from the turning crank causes a LOT more oil mist to be blown out with the normal venting. While the majority of the oil fumes and mist get sucked into the carbs, some of it coats the inside of the air plenum walls and must be drained out. For this reason, each of the plenums has a drain tube in the rear - those are two of the tubes pictured (the other two are the tank overflow and coolant overflow). But in a staggeringly stupid design trick, the drain for the left plenum is NOT at the lowest point when the bike is sitting on the sidestand. So as oil collects over time inside the plenum, it slowly migrates to the left rear corner of the plenum as the bike sits, and since there is no drain in that location for the left plenum, the oil will slowly weep out around the top of the carb and make a nasty mess all over the left rear carb! But lets get back to the oil coming out of those hoses. On an older or high mileage bike, even one that has never been over-filled, there will be an occasional drip from those vents. But if the engine is overfilled, there will be a lot more oil up there, so you will see many more drips. And it will virtually never completely stop. Those drain hoses have check valves in them (so you don't suck unfiltered air into the engine), and those check valves make it impossible for all the oil inside the hoses to easily drain out. That, coupled with the normal collection of oil mist inside the plenums means there will always be a bit of a drip, but it is very slight under normal conditions. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    $11,000 would be the high end for me, and I'd probably expect to get it between $9K - $10K if it was a relatively stock bike. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    You are pretty much screwed on that lower. Don't you just love goobers who destroy things and then try to screw an unsuspecting buyer? Sorry to hear that. Most likely you will have to replace that lower. But you might try getting something like Plastex and using the other side as a model to try and rebuild the missing parts. It is possible, but you will need to be good. One other option would be to use sheet metal to build the replacement part and attach it to the inside of the lower with either Plastex, JB Weld or Silicone. You could then either use a Tinnerman nut on the metal piece, or maybe just use a sheet metal screw in place of the original bolt. Goose
  18. V7Goose
    The Progressive shock pumps work fine for both the front forks and the rear shock (and the one HD sells is just a Progressive pump with an HD logo on it). Personally, I just have the 0-60 pump. It works fine for the front forks, but does take a bit of extra care to ensure the pressure is equal. One of the 0-30 or 0-15 pumps would certainly be better for the forks, but then I would still need the 0-60 one for the rear shock. And I often change the rear pressure - never change the front. In my opinion, 0 in the forks is fine, even for two-up riding. Adding air to the forks does not perceptibly change the "comfort" of the ride, but it does firm up the handling for more precise and consistent lines through the curves. I typically run my forks at 5 lbs. But I do feel that air in the rear is critical for comfort. I weigh 250, and riding solo with an empty bike and 30 in the rear shock I have no problems riding 1,300 miles straight. But I find myself tired and sore after a 300 mile day if I have less than 20 lbs in the shock. If I am riding fully loaded or two-up, I find that 45 in the shock usually works fine, but in extreme load situations I will take it all the way to 50. Do not try to check the shock pressure with the bike fully loaded or a passenger sitting on the bike - it will read very high due to the weight. If the bike is already loaded, put it on the sidestand and pull up on the right grab rail before you check the pressure. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Yes, all three bolts (AND the center lug on the bottom) are very important for retention of the lowers without damage. The two front bolts CANNOT be overtightened (to the point of damage to the fairing) because they tighten down on a metal collar - that means they never apply pressure directly to the plastic. This is not true of the rear bolt, so after you put that rubber grommet/nut back in the tab, just snug that one when you put the lower back on. Now for some information about making sure those bolt holes line up so you do not crack the lower. The mounting bracket for the upper bolt bends quite easily; it is just soft metal connected to the air filter bracket. First, insert the lower lug into the grommet below the radiator. Now insert and just start the lower front bolt. At this point you should be able to slightly shift the lower fairing around to see the rear screw holes lined up correctly. If you have to move the fairing so much that it flexes or bends in any way, stop - you have a problem with the lower mounting bracket being bent. Once you have the lower front bolt in place (but not tight), and the rear bolt started, it is time to check the alignment of the upper front mount. If it is not already properly aligned with the hole in the fairing, stop - do not try to bend or flex the fairing to line it up. Take the fairing back off and bend the bracket as necessary to properly match where the hole was. This will be quite easy to do since the metal is so soft. Now you should never have any trouble putting the fairing on, and it should never develop cracks from being stressed. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    This just does not happen on these bikes. Obviously check the drain plug and look on the bottom surface of things to try and see where it is coming from. Give us better information on exactly where it is, and we can probably help point you to the likely suspects. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    I know that Ruffy does not want to hear it, but this reply is for anyone reading this post who do not already understand the problem. First, the forks are designed for a MAXIMUM of 7 lbs air. It is virtually impossible to accurately adjust any large compressor for that low. If you have it too high, you risk damage to your bike. Second, I absolutely GUARANTEE that it is impossible to get both forks at the same pressure with this method unless you have already added a balancing kit. And if the forks are even 1/2 lb difference, it DOES affect the handling. The reason it is not even remotely possible to set them to the same pressure is due to the very small air volume of the forks. Just removing the air chuck (or any air gauge) will release some minor puff, and that minor puff will not be the same each time. That is why the ONLY way to properly check or adjust the air in the forks is with a tool that has a ZERO LOSS chuck - that is one that maintains a total seal on the air valve until the internal schrader valve is released. So if you value the integrity of your forks or the handling characteristics of your bike, NEVER EVER try to adjust the front forks without the proper tool! Always better to just make sure they are both empty. Sorry Ruffy, but that had to be said. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    This IS your best option. Here is what has happened: That nut is in a rubber grommet that just fits into a tab in the plastic. When putting the lowers on it is fairly common for the screw holes to not line up properly (the upper bracket is probably bent). When trying to insert the rear screw, it does not take much pressure to push that rubber grommet out of the hole. So pulling forward on the lower is about the only way to put enough pressure on the grommet/nut to allow you to remove the screw. If all else fails, you may have to drill off the head of the screw. Good luck, Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Just check the official opening date from the state. Obviously you cannot go over it before then (in any vehicle). But even after that, while the snow may be cleared from the road, you could still hit ice from the melt flow. We were up there a couple of years ago in the spring, and while I do not remember the dates, we did not see significant snow anywhere in Colorado or Utah, even on Red Mountain Pass, but there were still 6' drifts on the shoulders in Wolf Creek Pass.
  24. V7Goose
    I know not about those old decrepit junk heaps, so I try not to offer advice about them.
  25. V7Goose
    It is probably a Russian listening device - I'd rip it out immediately! Goose
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