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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    Well, it all depends on how bad the notches are. In moderate cases, you can smooth them out with a file or grinder, but that still leaves excess clearance in the basket for the clutch plate fingers to rattle around. And that is a very temporary repair, since the excess space will allow them to notch again much faster. Worse case is replace the basket and all clutch plates AND the inside hub. I'm not altogether positive that notching is your problem, since they also cause the clutch to hang up and not fully disengage or get jerky, an you didn't say your clutch was giving you any problems. Here is a link to a forum that shows you a notched basket - it is not our bike, but the pictures tell you what I am talking about:http://adrenalintrip.net/ktm-250sxf-clutch-basket-notching/forum/viewtopic/178/253541?siteid=1 At least it doesn't take a lot of work to verify if this is the problem. You can pull the clutch cover with the bike on the side stand and not lose any oil. The clutch pressure plate comes off with only a few bolts, and you just pull out the whole clutch stack and inspect everything. make sure you inspect the inside hub for notches from the steel plates too. You will need to have a new clutch cover gasket on hand, as well as an inch-pound torque wrench to do this job. The right torque wrench is important, since the pressure plate bolts are torqued at LESS than 10 foot-pounds (something like 5.7 ft-lbs or 70 in-lbs). Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Sounds like you may have notches worn in the clutch basket from the clutch plate fingers. If that is what is causing the noise, it will be localized to the right side of the engine below the oil filler cap. It would be very easy to pinpoint with a mechanic's stethoscope, but you could also probably pick it up with a good sized tube held against the engine case and the other end pressed into your ear. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    Thanks for the reply - I'll move this thread to the 1st gen tech talk forum for clarity. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Rotella Triple Protection meets JASO-MA Specs Just an FYI - the Rotella oils were reformulated last year. MANY bikes have been using the old Rotella oils with great results for years, and back when I was active on Shell's forums I saw numerous statements from them that they had no friction modifiers or other additives that would in any way interfere with our wet clutches. However, they could not meet the JASO-MA oil standard for motorcycle use (primarily a wet clutch friction standard) due to a slightly high ash content. JASO-MA requires max 1.2, and old Rotella dino had 1.4. Well, the new reformulated Rotella 15W-40 dino and 5W-40 syn oils DO meet JASO-MA standards now. They are not currently "certified" with JASO, so they are not labeled that way, but I have seen a letter from Shell posted on the GWRRA site. I recently found another copy of it and more discussion on Shell's Rotella forums: http://www.shellusserver.com/ubbthre...age=2#Post3861 Since our bike calls for "API service SE, SF, SG type or higher," and Rotella is SM AND meets the JASO-MA standards, it seems to me this is a GREAT oil for us. Yes, there is a little note in the Caution about wet clutches in the oil change section of the owner's manual that says not to use oil of a higher quality than specified (really not sure here how you could find something of higher quality than "SG type or higher"), but since that caution is specifically about wet clutch slippage, and Rotella now meets JASO-MA, it certainly does not seem to apply. Anyway, that is my choice of oil now that my stock of old Mobil 1 red-top is about gone. Just thought I share the info. Goose __________________
  5. V7Goose
    Just for reference, the 4929 is the stock number on the NGK plugs - the actual reference number from the owner's manual is DPR8EA-9. Both numbers refer to the same plug. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    Assuming you don't have any fringe on your levers (very bad if you do), then I'd check that all the levers are freely moving back to the rest position. I had to spray lube in the pivot of my clutch lever a while back to free it up. If the clutch, front brake, or rear brake levers do not fully return to rest, then the cutout switches will be very close to coming on and any jarring of the bike may make momentary contact. You might also need to adjust the position of the rear brake light switch. Make sure you have a little motion of the foot brake before it comes on. Goose
  7. V7Goose
    Any tool used to measure vacuum on two or more ports at the same time should be checked for an equal reading on all "gauges." I use "gauge" to mean mechanical gauge, mercury column, metal rod, or any other indicator. Most tools are adjustable, but not all. The CarbTune specifically says in the instructions that it cannot be adjusted, and they are almost right. When a friend brought a brand new CarbTune over, the first thing I did was hook it up to a 4-port manifold and a vacuum pump to verify all four read identical. They did not; two were a bit off, and one seemed significant (about 25mm low). I took the unit apart and saw that the four rods each have a long spring held on by a nut on the end. Adjusting that nut should work to calibrate the tool. Unfortunately, I found it IMPOSSIBLE to move the nut! Even vice grips on the end of the rod would not hold tight enough to turn the nut. I messed with the spring a bit (the end was somewhat misshapen) and when I put it all back together it was reading about right. Multi-port vacuum tools are easy to check - The easiest thing would be to just get three T connectors for aquarium air lines from any pet store. Hook these together with short pieces of air line so you have 5 open nipples - 4 to connect to the vacuum gauges and one to connect to a single vacuum source (such as one intake manifold or vacuum pump). Goose
  8. V7Goose
    You said you "greased the drive splines." Maybe it is just semantics, but splines are not "pins." If you did not remove the circlip and take the drive pins out of the drive hub, then you greased the wrong thing. I assume you have turned the wheel while having it jacked up with everything in place except the brake calipers, listening for the sound? That should certainly help to pinpoint it. The only other thing I can suggest is the stiff plastic rim that sticks out all the way around the rear drive unit (works kind of like a shield to stop grease that is thrown off the drive "splines" from splattering on the rim). I imagine that it is possible that the plastic shield could have been mashed when carelessly mounting the wheel to the drive unit, causing a part of it to be bent in and drag on the hub as it turns. I haven't actually seen that happen, but seems possible, and it matches the way you described the sound. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Is this a 1st gen thing, or what? I do not recognize the item to which you refer. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    It is probably just the drive pins in the rear assembly - unrelated to the tire change. Pull them and grease them good. But be sure they put the spacer on the hub in correctly. This is the one that fits on the right side of the wheel over the grease seal. It should be completely smooth on the outside. If they put it in backward, it will have a raised lip around the axle. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    No, but I don't mind if she takes credit for it. I think it was probably the new rear tire I mounted yesterday that whispered it in my ear. Y'all know I interact with the mechanical stuff better than the humans anyway! Goose Oh, here's another idea - have a "Dating Game" where the player is looking for a new motorcycle (the date) and the contestants are randomly picked and given an assignment to "be" a specific year/brand/model of motorcycle.
  12. V7Goose
    Yup, you need to remove the tank and front dog bone engine mounts to get to the front plugs. Not hard to do at all. I just use stock NGK plugs; wouldn't waste my money on anything "fancier." Goose
  13. V7Goose
    If y'all want to do some entertainment, find something that INVOLVES the members there, not imposes on them (but NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT karaoke!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). Something like a giant charades game might be interesting, with all clues being member screen names. Or maybe write up a one paragraph description of each member's motorcycle history and pass them out - each person taking a turn to read the info on someone and have the crowd guess who. Maybe do a roast of a couple of "special" members. Perhaps at registration, have each member write down their most surprising job they have held and have the crowd guess who it might have been. Those are just a couple of feeble ideas thrown out off the cuff to give some examples of what I mean by involving the members. My point is, don't intrude on our time together, ENHANCE it by helping us learn more about each other and have a good time at it. Goose
  14. V7Goose
    If the seals in the slave were leaking, you would be losing fluid. If the seals in the master are leaking, fluid is just going around the plunger and back into the reservoir. Goose
  15. V7Goose
    Only two real probabilities for that problem - either a bent actuating rod (which effectively makes it shorter) or bad seals in master cylinder. The bent rod is highly UNlikely. I also would suspect air in the fluid, but unless you were messing with it prior to the problem starting, that too is unlikely. And you said you already bled it anyway, so I'll assume you did that correctly. Your post implies that the new clutch worked fine for 25,000 miles, so either you just did something to it that caused the problem, or something went bad with age. So that just leaves bad seals in the master cylinder. VERY probably with the age of your bike. Need to rebuild it. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    It sure does seem odd for the popping to start right after they sync the carbs. If it was an exhaust leak at the Y, it should do it all the time (but infrequent). My bet is on a torn vacuum hose on the right side. They probably cut it while trying to jerk it off with pliers - they will get damaged REAL easy when pliers are used and they get cut on the edge of the nipple. It is also possible that the rubber cap on the other nipple is leaking. Even tho your bike is not that old, this can start quicker than you think. Easy test for that is to just swap the rubber caps from the left and right side. Since you said it was only popping on one side, if it changes, it is the cap. But the first thing I would do is pull off the right side vacuum hose and carefully look around the end while bending the hose, looking for any small cut. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Now THIS is critical information! Need to make sure we keep this advertised for the group as the rally gets near. I normally travel with a cooler and about a six pack or two, but I'll have to make sure I role in with a case on the top for this rally. I mean, 25 miles for a beer?!!!!? No way, Jose! Goose
  18. V7Goose
    OK all, let's get this straight. I went out to Yamaha's Star site and checked the owners manuals for EVERY year of the Royal Star Venture for specified oil change interval - the results are a little surprising. 1999 - the manual is not on line, so I could not verify 2000 - 2003: engine oil change interval 8,000 2004 - 2008: engine oil change interval 4,000 I have absolutely no idea why Yamahaha changed the oil change interval from 8,000 miles to 4,000 miles for the 2004 model year and later, but they did. Perhaps they were just correcting a typo in the manual? But they did not produce a second edition of the manual, if that was the case. Anyway, that is why we have confusion over the number - it depends on which owner's manual you are looking at! And the manual does not state what year it is for. The only way to tell is to look at the copyright page for the date - the year shown there will be one year EARLIER than the model year for which the manual applies. For example, the manual that shows April, 2002 is for the 2003 model year. Goose
  19. V7Goose
    Under almost any situation, it will never be an issue with a warranty claim. On the slight chance that your claim seems to be oil related (destroyed main bearings, scuffed pistons, scored piston walls, etc.), then the vendor could possibly ask you to show evidence you followed required maintenance (both schedule and quality of products/parts). This is a little dicey for them, since US law requires them to show that something you specifically did or did not do caused the damage before they can refuse to honor the warranty (Magnuson Moss Warranty Act). But to be completely safe, you might want to save receipts or other evidence that you purchased the required stuff. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    Sorry I can't give you the specific information you want, but I CAN confirm that the carb linkage is very different than the RSV. I did one of these at Don's maintenance day. The vacuum ports are the same, but the carb linkage screws for the adjustment aren't like it at all. However, I did not have too tough a time figuring out which one did which just by adjusting them and watching the results. The basic process seemed to be the same. There was a screw between the #1 and #2 carbs that balanced them together, then there were two screws between the #3 and #4 carbs - one balanced them together, and the other screw balanced the left and right sides together, just like on the RSV. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Now I got ya; thanx for the clarification."I see" said the blind man, as he picked up his hammer and saw.Goose
  22. V7Goose
    Very interesting, but almost beyond my belief! I even did a search myself to verify this wasn't a spoof. The part I have a hard time swallowing is two-fold - motorcycle sales are generally way up because of the fuel prices, not DOWN, and frankly, I just can't imagine Yamahaha mentioning the RSV for ANY reason, but especially claiming that a drop in their minuscule sales could affect anything! Seems to be the biggest joke in the world that they might try to claim their corporate profits hinge on the sales figures for a bike they have tried very hard to keep hidden! And if this thing was so critical to them, why in heck would they have let it stagnate for 10 years without a single update? Oh well, just goes to show I may not know as much as I think I do (but I'm not gonna give in on that point just yet!). Goose
  23. V7Goose
    BuddyRich, just a comment for you - the RSV, in most situations, will not have ANY ignition noise in the audio. Neither my 05 nor my 07 have any at all, no matter how high the IC is turned up. Since I ride two-up a lot and always use my headsets, my IC is always on. The usual setting for me is around 12, but I have occasionally turned it up for one reason or another. My point is, I think I am very familiar with the RSV audio system, including the intercom, and I have occasionally experienced the ignition tic as I mentioned above. But it is not a normal part of the system, and when everything is right, it won't be there at all. You may want to mess with your wires a little more. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Not sure what you are looking at, but the ACTUAL specified oil change interval for the RSV is 4,000 miles. The FILTER interval is 8,000, but the oil is 4,000. Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Don'tcha think it is so cute when old folks love antiques?
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