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GeorgeS

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Everything posted by GeorgeS

  1. Forward end of drive shaft houseing, fine the rubber boot, just aft of the engine case. Bottom of rubber boot, is a drain hole, if SAE-90 gear lube is leaking past the Seal on the Aft End, of the drive shaft, it will run forward in the shaft houseing, and drip out the hole in the boot. First determine if its motor oil, or SAE-90 rear drive lube.
  2. Maby fuel filter needs to be replaced. Might be plugged. Also, Is the fuel pump makeing the " clicking " sound, when you first turn Key to the " ON " position ??
  3. Do you have the Upgraded, higher Amperage Stator installed ??? If you install 40 extra bulbs, you will most likley need the extra amperage
  4. 30 Amp Main fuse , should be very close to the battery POS. Terminal. Withi about 6 to 8 inches, Follow the smaller cable from battery post.
  5. Sounds like compression check is the obvious thing to do. Also, pull the valve cover, and check the valve settings. Starting to sound like a Piston Ring, is not sealing, allowing oil to pass by.
  6. Sounds like the Ignition Switch problem-- On - Off contacts inside the switch. follow cable from the switch, open plug, read resistance across the On- Off contacts of the ignition switch. Or the sidestand switch ?? check that also sombody should be able to direct you to the location of the Plug
  7. Took a drive in car with wife to Wa. Coast the other day. While driveing down the beach, we spotted this currious new species of tree growing on the beach. ?? ( yes you can drive on the beach in Wa. State )
  8. Not on motorcycle, but on a Raft. We have lots of Rivers in Western Washington State, and summer River Rafting is a popular sport in this neck of the woods. OK, 4 of July Yesterday, River Rafters are out in force . A few of them are Drunk Drivers !!!! ( not to surpriseing ) Anyway, just heard on news, This Drunk, falls off his Raft-- he is carried down river by the current, his fellow rafters ( not sure if they were drunk ) call the Sheriff dept. on Cell phone, Sheriff sends out Helicopter-- chopper uses Infered heat senceing cameras, flying down the river, thru a heavly wooded ares, and spots the " Hot Spot " Clinging to a large rock in the river -- Choppers drops the Rescue guy on cable ( just like you saw in New Orleans on TV ) and the Deputy Sheriff, saves the guy, and then back packs him out to an ambulance about 2 miles thru the woods !!! Is there a morel to this story?? can it be applied to motorcycling ??? Not sure, but anyway, I had a good laugh watching the news this morning. !! :hihi::hihi:
  9. Check the battery voltage -- Engine OFF, Everything Off, Read voltage across battery terminals -- Should be 12.1 to 12.2 volts if battery is a lead acid type. IF low, then Charge the battery with a battery charger. ( 2 Amp rate for 6 to 10 hours ) Find the Carb Drain Valves-- One on each Carb, Drain Each carb. turn key on as you open each drain valve, let fuel pump run gas thru each bowl for about 30 seconds. Put some HEET in the Fuel Tank, then Completly Drain the fuel tank, at the Petcock. Simple remove the fuel line at the petcock, and hook a length of rubber hose to drain the fuel into a container. ( Use the old fuel for your lawnmower ) Check the 15 Amp IGNITION FUSE HOLDER'S-- The prongs that hold the fuse in position might be loose ( carefull they are easy to break off ) Clean the " RUN - STOP " Switch with " electrical contact cleaner " Or WD-40 if you have nothing else. Find the Neg Bat cable connection at the Fwd, Right corner of crankcase, ( near the water pump ) Remove that bolt and clean the bolt, and the Cable Stud. Remove the TWO Plugs from the TCI, and Clean the Pins, ( located Under the Air Cleaner Box ) Remove all 4 spark plugs, and see what they look like -- Open up the Main 40 AMP fuse holder ( located just left of battery ) and check the two #1 phillips head screws that hold the fuse element in place, they might be loose. Find the Connector in the 5 wire cable that runs from the Pickup coils, going to the 6 pin plug of the TCI, Left side of bike, just under you left knee as you sit on the bike. Open the Plug, and Clean the male and female pin contacts, Be sure they all have a tight fit. Find the 3 wire Large White Plug, that runs from the STATOR, going to the Rectifyer/Regulator unit. Open Plug, and Check for BURNT, FRIED, DAMAGED, pins in that plug ( This is a Very common Problem on these bikes !!!! ) Even if you find some other problem, DO THIS ANYWAY--IF plug is Damage, cut it out, and SPLICE THE THREE WIRES TOGETHER AT THIS POINT--- Use Western Union type Splice, and SOLDER THE NEW CONNECTIONS, -- AND APPLY 2 LAYERS OF HEAT SHRINK INSULATION---NOT, BLACK TAPE !!! --- Replace the spark plugs. -- IF none of this helps, then Remove the Cover of each Carb, and Check the Rubber Diaphrams, for tears, and holes in the rubber. (( Each cover has a tamper proof Screw, one of the 4 ) If the tamper proof Screw is still installed then the bike still has the original Diaphrams, and Most Likley they Need to be Replaced !! Sorry this will cost a few bucks. IF it still don't work, then call " Condor " !!!!!
  10. How old is your battery ?? If its a lead Acid, is the fluid level above the plates ?? Read the voltage of battery, if below 12.2 volts, then Hook up a charger to the battery, and charge it at 2 Amps or higher, for 6 to 10 hours, then re install in bike and Re-Evaluate the problem. ( Do not use a " TRICKLE " CHARGER-- Use a REAL Charger )
  11. Yes-- charge it at 2 Amp Rate ( or higher ) , for 8 to 10 hours, with a charger-- Not a Trickle charger---
  12. Read each of the 3 Phase AC wires at the Plug between the Stator, and Rectifyer !! Post the Voltage readings. They should all be same on each wire, Within + or - 1 Volt AC. The with enging running, use volt test meter, to read the DC voltage on battery terminal. Should be 13.8 to 14.2 V, DC Check your Main Ground Cable, where it connect to engine crankcase. Remove Bolt, and Clean it, and the cable Stud. ( Resolder Stud to cable end also good idea ) Is your battery fully Charged ???? With a real battery charger, NOT a trickle charger. Disconnect ,and fully charge the battery before you assume that something else is wrong with the bike !!! --- Charge at 2 Amp rate for 6 to 10 hours, Be sure to make sure water level is over the plates !! If its a Sealed Battery and over 3 years old, its probably Junk!!! ( If water is below plates, -- even if its a sealed battery --- its toast !!!
  13. Just remove Right muffler, then the two bolts that hold the caliper on, and lift it out. A bit tight with saddle bag installed, but it can be done. Most likly it will need new pads , at the least. But sounds like the Pistons might be froze up. Inner pad will be worn at an angle, compared to the outer pad. After removeing, force the pistons, to full depressed position, then put the pads in, and somthing the thickness of the rotor, then work the pedel, Carful you don't blow out the pistions. Make sure you bleed thru ALL the old fluid. But haveing said all this, most likley you will have to dissassemble and re-build that caliper.
  14. Page 7-31, of service manual-- If you have not seen this-- At 5 pin connector ( Black, White/Red, Orange, White/Green and Gray wires ) Measure--- Pidkup coil resistance- Use --- Ohm meter --- Pickup Coil Resistance: (( For bikes up to 89 )) Not sure if this is good for 90 to 93 !!!! Read 93.5 to 126.5 Ohms, wire to wire-- Black to Orange --- Black to Gy --- Black to White/Green --- Black to White/Red --- Also, be sure to Inspect that Plug between pickups, and the TCI !!!! Make sure the Male and female pins are makeing a good tight electrical contact!!! Make sure the Crimps on the pins, have not come loose from the wires!! Tug Tug on each wire, to make sure it does not pull out. Apply WD-40 and compressed air, there might be corrosion, at the crimp points. Have you inspected, the Plugs, going " TO " and " From " the Rectifyer/Regulator Unit ????? Have you Inspected the RED Battery Cable, " under " the Battery Box, Fwd, Left Corner, where the Cable pass's thru the Frame member's ?? A very tight fit there, the RED Cable, Insulation might be worn thru there. This has happened to a couple of folks. Have you Removed the Bolt, that Grounds, the NEG Bat Cable to the Right Fwd, corner of the Engine, by the water Pump??? A HIGH RESISTANCE GROUND HERE, WILL EFFECT THE ENTIRE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM !!! Remove and clean, !!!
  15. Max output is 30 Amps. However at average cruzing speeds, figure about 26 to 27 Amps. If you are running 2 35 Watt driveing lights, you are just about at Max.
  16. Did you check all the fuse holders, to make sure good contact to the fuses ?? Use volt meter on both sides of all the fuses. Sometimes they look good, but are not. Did you check for voltage to the supply pin of the TCI ?? It has to go thru the Ignition switch, then the 15 amp ignition fuse, then thru the run stop switch, then to the supply pin of the TCI. there is also, a black wire in the Large 8 pin plug at the TCI, make sure it is actually getting a ground: ( use your ohm meter, and volt meter to do the checking ) The same 15 amp ignition fuse also feeds voltage to the fuel pump. Question: Do all the other electrical systems work normally?? lights, horn, fuel pump, Air pump system, radio's cb etc ?? Is there anything else that does not work properly ??? looking for a clue here !
  17. When you wire up the new plug, make sure you use wire at least as large diameter as the cables that come with the Air Pump. ( best use one size larger wire ) And read the instructions that come with the unit, to determine what size fuse to use. Your new plug should go directly to the battery, NOT an existing circuit.
  18. Just wondering, do you know how fast a Busa can go? ( assumeing its runnig right ) Lets see? 800 lb and 97 HP, against 500lb. and 174 HP, I think maby the guy you were raceing, was a little off his game the day you raced him. Also: I do have one of each in my garage, there is NO comparison. Unless you have a turbo on your Venture.
  19. Not up to the task ! Now, a Honda ST-1300, I believe they are about 130 HP stock, and the bike is made to handle it. Owneing a Venture, and a Busa, believe me folks, there is a big difference in the frame's and suspension, steering, brakes, etc etc. Don't do it !!!
  20. Back up to the TCI. Pull the Two Large Plugs from TCI, and Clean the Pins. Find the plug enroute between PickUp Coils, and Clean the Pins. Also, You might have to " remove " the TCI, and then remove its cover, put the Unit into an Oven set at about 110 Deg. F, for about 2 hours, to DRY OUT the " Moisture inside the Unit " ( I know that sounds crazy, but this is a very common problem on these TCI units. They collect Moisture, and this causes them to fail ) NOTE: These units have 4 seperate circuits on the ONE Circuit board inside the unit. Any one of these 4 can fail, and the other three still continue to function normally. ( thus takeing out one cylinder ) Almost everybody who is still running a 1st gen bike has done this proceedure. Too remove the TCI you almost have to remove the Air cleaner box, and the Battery box to get access. The 4 #3 Allen Head Screws are NOT easy to remove. Be sure to use a #3 APEX TIP in a 1/4 Socket, mounted on a 1/4 ratchet to be able to get enough TORQUE to break those screws loose. ( they are usually very tight. ) To take resistance readings, you need to buy a " Digital Volt/Ohm meter " Go to radio shack, cost about $50.00 for a decent one. ( forget the $15.00 units they are junk !! )
  21. About 8 miles N of Missoulla , the road is completly Torn up, both ways. Total Reconstruction of the base road bed. 12 miles is torn up. Traffic is being routed right thru the construction. Crews are working both sides for every mile of the construction zone. All gravel, and hard packed dirt. I drove N and S thru it. I was thinking on the return trip, IF Raining. I would have taken a 200 mile Detour to Avoid it !! Also, if you start the run, you are Commited !!! No Way out, No Detours !!
  22. How long since you replaced " All " the plugs ? I would suspect the Plug wire itself, remove from Plug Cap, and Ing Coil, trim the wire ends and re-install, ( this is easy to do ) ( after you remove the air cleaner box ) . The idle mix, adjust screws, should all be set to 2 1/4 turns open, then minor adjustments from that point. Possibley the " Throttle Plate " of the #4 Carb, is Sticking, Lubricate the rod that the plate rotates on. ( use a WD-40, then a light lubricant ) Has the Fuel Filter, ever been changed ??? Has the Gas Tank ever been completly Drained ??? If not, highly reccomended !! Simply drain at petcock, and start with all new gas. ( might be water in bottom of tank !! ) Possibly a bad Spark Plug Cap. Remove, all 4 and measure the Resistance across all of them. should all be about the same. Then, its possible that the Ignition Coil is going bad !! Check the Small 2 wire plug going to the Ing Coil, Clean it, and measure the resistance thru the Primary winding, it should be "" 3.8 Ohms " thru the winding. I reccomend, comparing this Resistance reading on all 4 coils. But even if that is good, the coil could be failing. However the Coils on the 1st Gens, rarley fail. You might try Swapping Coils between Cylinders, to see if the problem follows. If you still don't have success, I guess I would do a compression check, next. Make sure good compression in that cylinder. Another item: PickUp Coils, Loacted under the Stator, The 5 wire cable from pick up coils, going to the 6 pin plug of the TCI. About half way, enroute, located under your left knee as you sit on the bike, Find the plug, open it, and Clean it. checl for loose wires on both sides of that Plug. The signal from pickup coil to fire each cylinder, go thru that plug. ( This is a Very Common Trouble Spot !! ) Pull Both Plugs out of the TCI UNIT, and Clean the PINS!!! Apply Dialectric Greese to the Pins !! Or If nothing else, clean pins, with WD-40 . Another item: The Run Stop Switch, has caused a lot of Ignition problems, I don't think this is your problem, BUT CLEAN THAT SWITCH ANYWAY !! ??? I guess your on a Witch Hunt, hope some of these suggestions help, good luck
  23. Well then there must be some difference in the wireing, or PickUp coils ?? I would have to get the Specific, Schematics, for the different years, and compare them. Which I do not have at this point. My Sevice manual has a publishing date of 1989. Also, maby pulling up P/N for the V-Max bikes from 89 and on, and compareing. Might be some TCI units from V-Max that would work, just speculating ?? IF so, then watching for used TCI units from a V-Max on E-bay, might turn up the P/N that is needed for this bike. Again, just speculating.
  24. Got back from 4 day trip yesterday, Seattle, to Kalispell Mt. and up to near Glacier Nat. park. Good run, bike performed great. Hit some bad road construction on Hwy 93 just north of Missoula, Mt. 10 miles of gravel. I wanted to see " FlatHead Lake " area. Great place to ride. Weather still on the cold side up in that area. ( 42 deg. here in Seattle this morning, must be Global Warming !! ) On return trip yesterday on I-90 from Vantage Wa. to top of Cascade range, I hit some really bad cross winds, about 30 to 40 MPH Winds. Traffic on I-90 was heavy and running 70 to 75, and that wind was vicious. The 1st Gens Do NOT like cross winds. Frankly it was a battle to keep the bike on the road. Winds seemed to be changing direction, thru the canyons, getting hit from the left, then the right, etc. For those 1st Gen riders, who have never encountered, high cross winds, be warned , these bike have a lot of surface for cross winds to have effect !!! Anyway, 1250 mile 4 day trip, great ride, great scenery up around Glacier Nat. Park. Lots of bikes headed North on Mt. Hwy 93. A challenging ride, I highly reccomend. I also rode sections of Hwy #2, I highly reccomend, from Dakota's all the way to the Pacific Coast, if you have the time !! Deffinatly put Hwy #2 on your " To DO, Someday List " !!!! Well, guess I will have to cut the grass today And wash the bike, its really dirty !!
  25. I'm thinking, if the P/N of the Pick Up coil, and the " Ignition coils " are the same, and if there is NO difference in the wireing diagrams, from the 90's and later --- Then it seems like the pre 90 TCI should work. Maby the only difference, is internally in the Box. Compare the wireing diagrams, and P/N's, if TCI P/N is the only thing that is different, you should be able to install a Pre 90 unit. ??? just speculating here.
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