LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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Driver painting nails kills biker at stoplight.
LilBeaver replied to FutureVentures's topic in Watering Hole
At least she didn't get the 'failure to yield' citation or 'driving too fast for conditions' that usually happens in that county for incidents like this. That's all I have to say about that. -
:happy65:
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Is the fender rail for the Royal Star Tour Classic? Or do they fit all of the newer royal stars?
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You may see us (and the scoot) in a soup commercial
LilBeaver replied to SilvrT's topic in Watering Hole
A little hungry, eh? So what, you're saying your mug can't sell soup? -
Thanks. I'll take having to wear a jacket over riding in dust, wind, and flat-ness. Sadly, I'll be back to that in a week or so And yea, the tripod is getting some use Apparently it was a good idea to dig it out.
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You may see us (and the scoot) in a soup commercial
LilBeaver replied to SilvrT's topic in Watering Hole
I was sort of wondering how that went for ya! Sounds promising -
Well, beam went down this morning and they had to open the main cyclotron which means that maybe we'll be back online tomorrow. Because of that I took a few extra minutes after dinner to take a cruise down one of the roads by UBC that I've been down a few times in a car, but figured it would be quite nice on a bike. Other than the large number of people around, it was pretty nice. A few photos here Notes on the photos: These were taken while driving down NW Marine drive, near UBC's campus. Photo 7: Downtown Vancouver is in the background I will probably have quite a few pics after this Sunday Enjoy.
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Holy man. MSRP 345, partshark for 243. Not that I want to start storing a bunch of spare parts, but if I could actually get it for 30 after S&H, that would be worthwhile! I'll keep an eye on this, if no one else here needs it, I might go for it. Good find Dan!
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I would try a different dealer or call Yamaha customer service. If you look closely on the inside where the middle screw is you will likely see that the screw hole is broken off. Post #8 In this thread does a nice job of explaining a way to fix it with ABS cement (nice going goose): http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28066&highlight=warranty+cracking Post #11 of this thread is proof that someone got it replaced under warranty. I recall several folks saying they got theirs done under warranty. I'm pretty sure that the tricky part is proving to the dealer/yamaha that the crack is not YOUR fault (ie you didn't hit something, drop the bike, go at it with tin snips, whatever). I would be all over my dealer to get that done under warranty - then when it did ger replaced I would bend the metal clamp that the screw goes through to hold the lower into place to remove the stress from the lower cowling. Just some thoughts.
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First of all, great question. I was sort of wondering the same thing since we seem to have a handful of people transitioning out of the RSV and onto other bikes. Some to HDs, Goldwings and one I know is looking for a sport tourer. Now for the confusing part. I don't really understand why so many of you are so upset about having the Cassette deck. As others have stated we have the cassette deck, Aux port and an optional CD changer -- so what more could you ask for? If you don't like the cassette deck, don't use it or replace it with a storage compartment or a nice set of gauges. I guess I don't understand what the big deal is since Yamaha is giving us options on how to groove to our tunes. Come on now, if they were really behind the times we'd have a phonograph or a wax cylinder... I happen to use my cassette deck on occasion. I like the fact that I don't have to change the batteries, worry about it skipping when I hit a bump, or have an extra cord hanging between me and the bike (or an extra 'thing' on my bars). As for Yamaha not [seeming to] address the rear shock 'issue' or the amazing turbo-waste-gate that some of us are 'fortunate' enough to have -- that I do not understand. But who knows, maybe they HAVE been working on it, or tried at some point, and found that what they build/sold was the most reliable option (I don't really believe that, but hey, I don't have any insider knowledge so who am I to assume anything about the internal workings of their engineering department). Now, to sort of rectify these two issues, the 5 year fender to tail warranty is something that I think is pretty awesome. Realistically, what other brand offers that kind of guarantee with their product? The fact that, in many cases (if not most) the clutch baskets have been switched out under this and many rear shocks have been replaced -- it seems to me that while that isn't ideal (because no one likes their bike to not be perfect) but it seems like a reasonable way to stand behind your product (whether the dealer has the same attitude is a whole different ball of wax). I have my own 'issues' or dislikes I suppose is the more appropriate term, but, for me the RSV suits my 'wants' in a long distance, touring machine more than any other machine on the market. Since it is the least offensive option, this is what I have.
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Hopefully you'll get a fair amount for it. Those things look pretty slick!
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Nope... That's why I'm in Vancouver, BC with my bike and the little deal in the corner of all my posts has a Texas flag.... :rasberry: :Venture:
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:think::think: Seems like in your situation, it is in fact the first that causes you to do the second, eh? Good luck figuring out whatever the issue is!!
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I don't see the problem with this? First of all, I did not mean to imply that since my readings for 20-100 KPH were correct that I had assumed that the rest of the speedometer was going to be correct as well - this is why I specifically stated the speeds of which I checked. So, my apologies if I misled anyone. I guess I could have been a little more thorough in my explanation of what I did when I had the 'hey those two speeds match' moment that prompted a slightly more systematic check to satisfy my curiosity. I hardly call it anything other than a quick 'eyeball' type measurement but I'll elaborate slightly now. I only 'checked' the respective speeds at 100 kph ONE time during my ride yesterday, which is hardly enough to claim verification of anything other than the bike can go approximately 100 kph, which we already know. I only did this at 100KPH once mainly because of the speed limits on the roads that I was on were never at or above 100 kph except for one stretch of road that particular limit lasted for, at best, 2 miles. That particular stretch also happens to be quite scenic so I was rather distracted by the large bright white moon over the ocean that peeked through the trees on occasion, then remembered to check the speeds. So, I suppose I really should not have included the 100 kph in my original statement, although, I thought I was quite clear that I was just stating my observations were simply that - basic observations. Also in the original post I did indicate the range of which I observed the particular speeds (20, 40, 60, 80 and 100 kph). I suppose I could have been a little more clear about how many times I sampled each speed which I will go ahead and comment on here since there is some interest. (I sort of assumed that there wouldn't be a whole lot of interest in this, which is why I labeled it as a 'fun fact' more than anything and decided to skimp out on some of the writing... That and when I made the post, I had a few minutes of downtime on my real experiment). I verified 40 and 60 several times (probably somewhere in the neighborhood of at least 8 or 9 times - once I held it for approximately 1/2 mile stretch) throughout the 15-20 mile trip (every time I accelerated through these speeds I paused and held the speed for 5-10 seconds, long enough to get the gps speed to stabilize +/- 1 KPH. In order to try to be reasonably consistent, I stayed focused on my bike's speedometer until the needle covered the tick mark on the KPH indicator -- a few times I went a little over then back under (ie oscillated about the speed) then settled back down to it, to make sure I was close at least - THEN, checked the GPS and went back and forth from the GPS to the speedometer and saw when both were more or less steady, I made my 'mental note' of how close they were - again, I was finding +/- 1 KPH. Note that the speed readout I was going on read in WHOLE number increments and the resolution on the speedometer is actually a bit worse off than that. As I was just reporting my observations and did no further analysis (other than the error analysis I did while I was riding -- yeah, I'm a nerd), I made no attempt to even hint at extrapolation beyond my observations. With that said, the additional information that you [Goose] included about how well the tic marks appear to line up is quite good to know. That is something that I had not yet done.
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Actually Rick - I have no idea, since ya'll speedometers are weird and only give KPH. I do not recall reading what the metric folks have had to say about their speedo's accuracy. This was my initial thought last night. Now, I have not done extensive testing, by any means, other than entertaining myself on my ride back to where I am staying and holding as steady as I could and reading the GPS as well as my speedometer (at the marks that I knew what they were) while driving and trying to stay awake. Let us not forget that the resolution limitation of these speedometers are on the order of 2-3 mph.
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Ah, well thanks for clearing that up for me! I'll bet next you'll explain that anytime I drive north my fuel economy suffers because I'm driving 'up' the globe?
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While I realize there have been about a zillion and a half threads about people 'realizing' that their speedometer calibration is off, using a speed-o-healer, ignoring it all together, etc etc. I had an interesting realization last night while I was avoiding being pulled over puttering back across Vancouver. Last Christmas I received a Ram-Mount for one of the GPSes I have. I have now used it twice (both times in Vancouver) Partially because I have it so why not, and partially to make sure that I know how fast I am going in the appropriate units. As we all [most likely] know, the MPH side of the speedometer (on U.S. models at least) is off by 5-10% depending on who you ask, where you check it and most importantly whether you are using your turbo attachment or not. All kidding aside, I have found now through a speed range of ~10 to ~60 mph (10 to 100 kph) checked at intervals that were distinctly marked (ie 20, 40, 60, 80, 100) I found that with the speed held reasonably constant the GPS read a speed that matched exactly (obviously within the error of the width of the needle). Now this had me curious. Upon closer inspection I found (on my bike, which I presume is the same on others) that the MPH scale is not aligned properly with the KPH scale which contributes to the incorrect speed indication. Now before you say 'oh that guy is an idiot, of course it isn't perfectly aligned because the needle has to point towards the numbers and being that the radii of the curvatures of the speed range indicators are diffrent and the 'needle' points radially outward but is not a perfect , of course they wouldn't look visually aligned'. I solved this issue by looking at how fast my indicated speed was in KPH both on GPS and on the speedometer and verified that while the reading in KPH was correct, the needle was pointing to the wrong point on the MPH scale. So, how is that for a fun fact? By the way, I am in Canada where they use KPH -- which is why I have the GPS set to KPH and am paying attention to that. Anyhoot, just thought I would share my findings while I try to wake up enough to get some work done.
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This will be a quick update since the only riding involved included dodging >. Had another great evening with Rick (SilvrT) and Nina. Buzzed over there to drop off what I owe for the windshield that SilvrT procured up for me and was invited to stay for supper. We ended up sitting around talking for a few hours (and had some ice cream ). Thanks again for your hospitality and generosity. Although my riding was limited I figured I'd put in an update considering it involved another VR member. I do have a few pictures from the ride out there, but have not retrieved them from my camera yet . By the way Rick, the ride home on marine drive was MUCH nicer considering there was virtually no traffic. ...... Until next time
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Oh boy. Lots of good lessons in here. Hopefully this gent will be able to recover quickly and manage to live as normal of life as possible. Thanks for posting this Brian. Everyone stay safe out there, know and respect your limitations.
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I suspect it may be the 'reporter' that has jumbled up some information... But who knows, maybe the deer are getting smarter and striking back... with vengeance. http://image.allmusic.com/00/agg/cov200/drg000/g011/g01101h165h.jpg
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Yeah no kidding. Good to know that there are a few good ones out there still. Sortof makes me want to get a list going and as I drive through places, make a point of stopping to check them out. For sure if I know I'm going to need some type of service along the way, but yea. Anyways. Glad that they were good to you!
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I saw this in person and I had completely forgotten what kind of shape it was to begin with! Good looking trailer, and plenty of room for all sorts of jun...er.... 'Stuff'.
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Thanks! I wish I could take a lot more, but, I've got to drive some how... And I'm glad you got them. I tried to be accurate in my description and I like to take good care of my stuff. Hope you get some great use out of them!!
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I'll start this off with the disclamer that I'm probably the least qualified for advice here, but have no fear, the true masters ought to jump in soon... To start off: This might sound like a silly question, but what gear were you in while you were trying to climb this hill? That certainly would not explain the low fuel light but they may be unrelated. If you came off of a V-twin, it is possible that you are simply not riding this bike in the right rev range for optimal performance. As far as the fuel light, like I said, it could be related and it may not be. If it just so happens that you were really that low on fuel and the incline was steep enough, you may have been starving for fuel. For reference, the Rev limited on a stock bike in 3rd gear kicks in at an indicated 94 MPH, 4th is somewhere well above where the needle goes to. So if you were trying to climb even the slightest hill at 60 in 5th, it is entirely possible that your bike is fine and it is just that you were in the wrong gear. The fuel sending unit is located inside the tank on the left side. I have found that when my light comes on, I can do a few real sharp counter clockwise U-turns and get my fuel light to go off for another couple of miles. The tank straddles the frame and has no connection between the two sides that hang down on either side of the frame. The petcock and sending unit are both on the left side. For reference, I can go anywhere between 5-10 miles when my low fuel light comes on before switching to reserve (with normal riding). To my knowledge, the low fuel light is not part of any part of the bikes 'on board diagnostic system'. That is, it only turns on when you are (or it thinks you are) low on fuel. This is why I think that while you notice a correlation between the problems, there is likely no causal link between the two. Just some thoughts for you. I'm sure others will chime in with more complete thoughts, but, maybe this bump will get you going. Other responses you are likely to get that may help: 1) Run some seafoam through to help clean up anything left in the carbs 2) Replace the fuel filter 3) check the fuel pump (clicking when you turn the key to the on position) -- A good test is run it dry (turn the fuel off and ride around a little bit), then safely pull over and turn the key to the off position. turn the petcock to the ON position, then turn the key on (but don't start it). You should hear a fast ticking, slow eventually then stop -- which is the fuel pump filling the carbs. -- you may want to drain the float bowles before you do this. 4) Check/clean the air filters 5) Check the resistance of the ignition wire caps -- or whatever the fancy technical name is for them. Should be something like 10-12k Ohms 6) You mention your choke knob may be the culpret -- it is possible that got bent some how; you could check to make sure that nothing binds when it moves. Anyhoo, hopefully it is something simple. And I realize that this is a rather broad list, some of which it sounds like you have already PAID to have done. But again, hopefully this bump will get you going. OH yea, and WELCOME!!!
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Dave - just saw this thread. That stinks man... I hope the weather people are wrong and you end up with some at elast 1/2 way decent weather! :080402gudl_prv: Ride safe.