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83VR3711

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Everything posted by 83VR3711

  1. 83VR3711
    ok... so now I have replaced the wires and replaced the plugs. I appears that I have lost both rear cylinders. It is not due to the plugs or the wires. I did drain the bowls. #2, #3 and #4 drained clean. I was unable to get any fuel out of the #1 bowl. Something else I noticed...for the first time, I have started get the oil blow back in my air box. It has never been there before. Mind you, about a week or so ago, all 4 cylinders were firing. Any ideas?
  2. 83VR3711
    Ok....all was good for a while. I finally got her to a state where I can drive her daily to work. Acceleration and take off were great. After a few days, there started to be some lag below 3k. After a few more days of driving, it got to where it lagging below 4500 RPMs, the 5k and now it is at the point to where it will lag until 6k. After I reach 6000 RPMs, she shoots off like a rocked, but of course I have to shift and when I do, the lag or bogging down returns till 6000 RPMs is reached again. I am not sure where to start....I just had the carbs syncd and I cleaned the plugs. I just replaced the air filter and I have new wires on the way. Could it be the fuel filter causing my issues or do you think that I will have to clean my carbs again (3rd time in 6 months)? It seems the more I keep driving it, the higher I have to get the RPMs in order to get normal throttle response. also, Yes, I have been running seafoam. Please help....
  3. 83VR3711
    Incase anybody is interested, I have some pics of a dipstick with the dimensions. You know...just incase somebody wants to make an accurate one for themselves. I hope these help.
  4. 83VR3711
    I can vouch that:missingtooth:!! Squidley found this to be the root of a lot of my VR issues. Thanks again Squidley.
  5. 83VR3711
    You may have a faulty Nuetral switch. May want to try cleaning the conectors. Good luck:thumbsup2:
  6. 83VR3711
    I am sorry for the confusion, I was refering to #26 and #28 carb section in parts catalog. Page B6. I hope this helps.
  7. 83VR3711
    I had the same issue with my #2 carb on my 83. I checked everything I could possibly think of, including the electrical system. It turned out the Screw that held the main nozzle on the slide assy had come off. I opened up the carbs and put it back together and it ran like a champ. Just an idea. --83VR3711
  8. 83VR3711
    Have you done the upgrade on the battery cables yet?
  9. 83VR3711
    Thank you all for your input. I am gonna go ahead add that 3rd washer. I hope it does the trick. I was thinking about doin that, but was looking for a second opinion before I wasted my time. Thanks again.
  10. 83VR3711
    Ok, so last night I installed the washers in the carbs to increase the fuel mileage and reduce the gas smell at idle. Before the change the bike ran pretty good. I decided to install (2) #4 washers on each carb in replacement of the original plastic one. The bike fire right up and ran great for a couple of minutes and then it died. Restarted her and she will idle, but as soon as you give it throttle, she would die. I then recalled something about the fuel/air ratio settings so I checked each of the screws. They were all at different settings. One was 6 full turns out, one was 5 1/2, another at 8 and the fourth one was 4 1/2 turns out. I reset them all to 2 1/2 turns out like suggested and now she won't even idle. Where should I go from here?
  11. 83VR3711
    An easy way to get the bags off is to use a screw driver and push the little tab (that holds it in place) in and the bag comes right off. I do not have the key that removes my bags so that what I have to do everytime. Works like a champ on the bags and the trunk. Hope this helps, --Clay
  12. 83VR3711
    Have you checked the diaphrams yet? If they have holes in them, she will run terrible.
  13. 83VR3711
    I am in need of the rear reservoir on the 83 VR. Do you have one available?
  14. 83VR3711
    I would like to send out a special thanks to Squidley for finding the issue that has for so long plagued my bike. After all of the troublshooting and head scratching, Squidley shows up and points out the fact that my rear brake fluid was no longer fluid. It is now a gel. Appearantly my rear brake has been slowly locking up on me. Thank you Squidley . He also pointed out a couple of other issues that I need a little help with. Is there anybody out there who may have a spare rear reservoir and a proportioning valve they would like to part with? My valve is no good and my reservoir is in pieces. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Clay
  15. 83VR3711
    I was reading the other post about the brakes.....What are the chances that my ibrakes might may have something to do with what I am experiencing. Everything was good until about 5 miles down the road in 120 degree weather... this morning, though when I put it in the garage, she ran like a champ... I don't get it.
  16. 83VR3711
    I did indeed clean everthing in sight or atleast everything in the part that rear of the slide. The section with the float and the main nozzle. I did not access the smaller diaphrams cause I was under the impression that you should not seperate the carbs. Now she does not clear up after 4500 RPMs. When I drove her home last night, she semmed to have no power all the way up to 5k RPMs. On a side note, what is a good RPM to shift at? Shoud I cruise at 4k or 3k?
  17. 83VR3711
    So I finally got to drive her to work for the first time since I fixed the carb and shifter issue. I have driven her around town a bit for the last 3 days with no issues maybe a total of about 10 or so miles. Today I got about 5 miles down the road to a red light of a major intersection and she died. I was able to get her restarted before it turned green. Since then it almost seems to be a clogged jet again. Here is what she is doing....the acceleration is gone away...it almost seems that she is struggling below 4500 rpms. After 4500 she shoots off like a rocket. this happens in every gear. I tried to get on the highway but she would not go above 60 MPH. I can roll the throttle and hear the engine increase with a deep pitch scream much will not go any faster. When I break the 4500 rpm range, she given a higher pitch scream as she accelerates up to 60 MPH. I have been through the carbs and all was scrubbed with gas and blown with an air hose. Now mind you the time when riding around town, she was great with acceleration and speed, though I never went over 55 MPH. What do you think I should do from here? Also, I just installed the NGK spark plugs...
  18. 83VR3711
    That indeed is a very good question......
  19. 83VR3711
  20. 83VR3711
    I will take one set as well. Clay
  21. 83VR3711
    Thanks you Squeeze. I could not figure out how to get that picture from PDF file to here. I hope that that picture will help better explain it. I do have an update.......I had my wife spin the rear tire for me (cuz I am at work) and she said that the tire moved and then made a click sound. The tire now does not move now. I think that it may have moved into a gear... (I hope it did and it wasn't something else). Here is a little more history for you.....When I bought the bike, #27 on the pic was bent in a "U" shape. I wound up replaceing it. Since then the shifter has always had some slack in it. Being that this is my first motorcycle, is the shifter supposed to be stiff and tight or is it supposed to have some slack?
  22. 83VR3711
    Thank you for the info. Sorry for the confusion. The part that is bent is #30 on page 34 of 118 in the parts catalog. By looking at the picture, the part appears to be straight and not in the shape of a "n". Will the two gears that fell have anything to do with the shifter not moving?
  23. 83VR3711
    The coils are located below and just forward of the battery. The easiest route of access is to remove the fairings, both upper and lower. Once those are removed you should have a very clear view of the coils and the wires. Good luck.
  24. 83VR3711
    Ok so I pulled the cover off of the clutch last night, after I pull what I think is the crank case cover by mistake. When i was able to get a closer look at the shifter assembly, I noticed that the "shift lever assembly" was bent into a "n" shape. I thought that was the problem so bent it back into shape while it was installed ( I could not get that thing out of there to save my life). I was sucessful in getting it almost completly flat, but upon completion and reassemblly, the shifter does not move what so ever (with or with out the clutch engaged). Mind you, when I pulled the crank case cover, two gears came out of place. I think I got them back right because the cover did go back on. My question is.....What did I do wrong:think:? Now my problem is worse than before:bang head: PLEASE HELP!!!
  25. 83VR3711
    Thank ya'll for your help. I will hopefully have an update tomorrow on what i find tonight.
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