Ivan
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Everything posted by Ivan
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I am wondering about this. As soon as I get some time I will check it out. If I do have to change it out, I think I am gonna get "Joe Dirt" on the old one and shoot fireworks at it.
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Damnit and I was looking for an 8 track player for my first gen resto. They were ahead of their time if they had genuine cassette tape players! Now all I have to do is find all thirty five of my brief case sized cassette carriers from highschool. It'll go good with my bag phone and Z. Cavriccis! What is truly amazing is that I could fit all the music I ever owned on one microSD card less than the size of a postage stamp, along with a couple HD movies.....
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So, a week or so ago I rode the naked venture into town and fueled it up. I hadn't had it on the road before and needed to make sure it was capable of motorating under its own powerization. It works ok, now its time to start painting,,, Anyhoot. In the mean time, the whole house smells of gasoline, and I go out to check on it, and it has lost all the fuel. The tank is bone dry. The concrete isn't wet and it didn't leak out while running, so I am pretty sure it isn't the carbs. Are there any typical leak points on these scoots, or should I figure on removing the tank to repair rust?
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If your rear pedal adjustment is set too tight and not letting the plunger return all the way, it will cause this to happen. The ever so slight rubbing of the pads will build heat which expands the fluid making for a gradual lock up of the brakes. Just ask how I know.....
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Uh, I don't think I made myself understandable. One particular place is where there was a bit of mismatch on the repair, and now I have to fill in a place that is an 1/8 inch deep and taper it out over a few inches to blend the contour. Other places are where stuff rubbed into the plastic and made gashes that aren't cracks. No need to bond the parts together, just fill in some low spots. Also the epoxy is a tad bit harder than the original plastic, so it is very tough to sand it smooth with the original substrate.
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I am not the greatest at body work, and am not terribly knowledgeable in such. I am a fair hand at painting since I used to paint the cabins on my model helis. So, on my first gen, I have been repairing the cracks with some plastic epoxy that I found. It melts the plastic a bit before setting up. Only problem is there are some gaps and voids that need filling in. So, is there a specific kind of filler I should use on a plastic substrate, that is flexible? From what I know of regular bondo, it is hard and doesn't handle flexing too well. Thanks
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Over at my other haunt XS11.com We have a very enlightening discussion of what actually goes on inside a TCI box. http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20938
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Got three of them. For some reason the 40 incher gets the game, the others, a console from 1963, and a 15 inch from wally world are whats left. We only have one cable box, so the only thing I can watch (for the next few weeks anyway) are the analog cable channels, and guess what they have on them........
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Well, its that time of year again. Super bowl time. Every year, I spend the first 17 hours of it vomiting compulsively, since the wife really loves it, and trying to change the channel is worth loosing a hand over. After the compulsive vomiting subsides, I try and find other things to do. Computer games, surf the forums, solitaire, watching paint dry etc. This year the paint didn't hold my attention nearly long enough, so I am going to gripe about it here. So, now you all know the truth about me. I really hate football. From peewee to pro, I can't stand it.
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No bugs on the first 70º day of the year. The dust and leaves coming off the thing left a cloud like the 1930 cropdusters though. http://farm1.static.flickr.com/163/329734415_52a54d904a.jpg?v=0
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Well, I had my first ride on it today. Totally stripped down, nothing on it except the seat and enough lighting to get passed the LEOs. Took it in and filled the tank, ran it out a bit to see if anything major was wrong. The forks need air. It kept bottoming out over the bumps. Wife was following me and said it puffs lots of black smoke when I gun it, and smells bad. I pulled up to the pump and some guy on a Harley looks me and the bike over and just doesn't know what to think. Finally he says "Blowing the dirt off it?" I said its my project. He laughed at me then. I guess he has never fixed up an old bike. Oh well, I was happy.
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I busted my butt once. Actually the tail bone. Hurt like hell. X rays didn't show the break, so you can guess what they do next. And they ask if it hurts. Took me about two weeks before I could walk right again, and a while longer before I could sit for any amount of time.
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What was the symptom? To me it looks like galling, meaning that the aluminum rubbed too hard against the cylinder, pushing away any lubrication. Is the cylinder also scored up or just has a bunch of galled aluminum on it? If this is the only piston that looks this way, I would say it is a mis machined piston, that got passed the QA. I have never actually machined pistons myself, but looking at them I would suspect the ring grooves are made on a different operation than the skirts. If the skirt was machined too large (out of tolerance), then the scores you see would show up. Stuff like this happens on CNC machines when a tool wears down (doesn't cut as deep) breaks the tip off, or the tool is changed and the operator doesn't set the lenght properly. I would guess that a high production shop would have this mostly ironed out, but mistakes do happen.
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Dashlight bulb
Ivan replied to Big Daddy's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
can you just take the dash cover off and get to the back of the cluster? I am not sure, my venture is in pieces and I don't remember what it looked like together, its been a while. Might need to pull the windscreen off too. If you never ever want to replace them again, and have a few extra bucks, superbrightleds.com has some replacements for the 194 bulbs. Not sure how well it would work with the dimmer though. http://www.superbrightleds.com/mini-wedge.html -
Sometimes I get too caught up in things, and need to just go with the flow, so to say. I am sure a resistor will work well. I will get it figured out. It is to the point that I could drive it today, naked, since the body panels are all over the place, and I would like to get them repaired or replaced as necessary and get some paint on them, so it looks decent. I should have taken a few pics to document the process.
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I am seeing a lot of forums that have an option in the view to switch to mobile. PPCgeeks.com ins one of them. Scroll to the bottom and in the left there is a menu with "Marvel2". Mobile can be selected from there. I am not a web programmer, but I would think that vBulletin would have implemented this sort of thing in the software by now. If not, they really need to think of it, since it seems to be the way things are going. FWIW, if you have a Pocket PC (not sure about smart phones with WM) or a nokia, Skyfire is an excellent browser. It is lower on resources than Opera (you know the fat lady always sings so any software with that name has to be heavy) and has the dynamic zooming and display of the up and coming deepfish stuff that MS is behind the times on. It works a lot like Opera mini (which s a good opera, strangely) on a java platform, and you dont need a java emulator. Any browser you get, it is still a pain to look at full size web sites on a 320x240 screen.
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I am guessing here, but since the battery sensor goes in one of the center cells of the battery, it should pick up either a 6 or 8 volt signal correct? So wouldn't a 6V regulator be safer than guessing at the right resistance, since the current will change based on system voltage? Maybe I am just being too picky.
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Well, thanks to MiCarl, I have a working set of gauges. I just need a bezel with lenzes I can see through. It starts and runs well now, and shifts through all the gears (on the center stand). The Computer display is indicating a battery problem and a oil problem. I am guessing the battery light is from the electrolyte sensor not being installed, since I have an AGM battery on this one. The oil light, though, is befuddling me, as I cant seem to find the oil pressure switch. A heads up on the location of that would be helpful. Once again, the people of this site are astounding in their helpfulness, and I think I may not ever be able to say thank you enough.
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Well there you have it. I thought maybe it was the line from the coolant tank to the radiator. I don't have a royale so no compressor. You get the "Know it all of the day" award, which along with a dollar will buy you a cup of coffee at any truck stop in Kansas.
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I have read several places that plastidip, the stuff used to coat handles on pliers, is good for repairing carb diaphragms. I haven't had the need to do it my self, but the stuff is only about 5-10 bucks and comes in a variety of colors! Someone else suggested "liquid electrical tape". Personal experience is not mine, but I would certainly try the $10 method before the $100 method or buying the slides new for $300. What do you have to loose?
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Hmmmm... Vicadin and a cane. If you get the grumpy yet adorable attitude, you can tell everyone you're the person they patterned House after. On a serious note, I have been in that particular situation as well. Mine happened in high school football. Knee bent the wrong way. As you know, but others may not, it isn't nearly as comfortable as it looks or sounds. I wish you a speedy recovery.
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hmmm, I guess I botched the link. here is the item number: 310118289372
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Well if you need your suction filled here is what you need......? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310118289372&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem= Ok, so what is it really?
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This thread is funny. No spark or injector pulses, so change the fuel filter. I got a laugh from that. I also worked on Fords (and chevys and dodges) for several years, and I agree that no spark or injector pulse is most likely an ignition module, or crank sensor. On just about any modern SFI vehicle, the crank sensor feeds a signal to both the ignition and injectors (sometimes through other modules and such) for timing. Now here's the best advice I can give some one in your position. There are guys that fix things like this for a living. Ask around in your area at the parts stores and such to get word of mouth on who is the best for the price. Take the truck to them and tell them the symptoms. You only need to tell them it dies intermittently, and answer their questions. Then let them figure it out and fix it. I have seen several people that throw $1000 worth of parts at a car, then bring it in and find out that an $80 diag and a $15 map sensor was all it needed. For some reason, everyone thinks that techs are a rip off, and prey on the ignorant. Yet they have more technical knowledge than a MD, a better guarantee than a general contractor, and (if they want to make a living) a hell of a lot more honest than any high paid lawyer. Funny thing is that people will pay $5000 to get an MRI with no results, $15,000 for a set of prints on a new house, that will probably be revised several times, and $30,000 on a lawyer that will charge you for winning or loosing. They are all ok with that, but paying a guy who never sees his hands without grease in the cracks $150 is just terrible. Ok, rant off
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Has anyone used the electronic audiovox? The CCS100 is vacuum operated, so I would imagine it needs a can and a check valve. Seems the fully electronic one may be a tad easier on teh install