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CdnDave77

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  1. CdnDave77
    I bought my 83 last year, and granted the old girl was in rough shape (86+k km)... but I paid $1500. True, I found out that the 2nd gear was out of it after the deal was done, but I don't regret it. A little TLC, new rubber, and it moves me around just fine. I would certainly have a lower price in mind and be willing to walk away if it is not accepted. No harm in trying. Good luck ! There are other bikes out there. Send me a PM if you are interested.. my neighbour has a 86 for sale, I believe in that range.
  2. CdnDave77
    Well, the YICS is the Yamaha Induction Chamber System, which (and I'll hold off on the engineering lingo) basically is another chamber attached to your intake ports (between the carbs and the cylinder bank) that holds some additional air-fuel mixture and lets it flow into the cylinders at a different angle from the main air-fuel intake. This is supposed (and does) give a better combustion, and therefore better mileage/fuel economy, etc. It was a fantastic idea on the inline 4-cylinder engines (Maxims/Secas, FJ's)... a simple port could be cast in the head - no additional components, no moving parts, nothing to wear out. However, Yamaha marketing decided it needed to be on the V-4's as well. The geometry of the engine isn't naturally suited to a single interconnecting port on all 4 cylinders, so the design engineers had to add an external chamber and connect it to the cylinders with individual hoses. Of course, to make it light (and cheap), they made it out of plastic which does the job fine for a few years. But 20+ years of heating/cooling cycles & vibration takes its toll and they begin to leak. The hoses suffer the same fate. Eventually, the device that was supposed to improve the performance of your engine begins to erode it, making your engine run lean as the leaks increase. I also think the YICS chambers make the engine a little more robust initially... and by that I mean the carbs need less attention. But, if you are willing to learn a little bit, and give your bike a good check-up occasionally, the bike will run just as good without it. Maybe better, depending on the condition of your YICS chamber. Removal isn't hard, but to completely remove the hoses, I had to pull the carb rack off the intakes to get at the inner ones. All you need are vacuum caps to cover the YICS ports on the cylinder banks (I re-used the hose clips). Remember to do a re-synch of your carbs ! Mine was much different than with the YICS. My bike runs better without it, but my mileage didn't improve much - I get 36-38 mpg, but I am betting it is an issue with throttle application on the rider's part, not the engine. The YICS have gone the way of the Dodo bird now... replaced by fuel injection systems that eliminate a lot of hassle (hint, hint Yamaha). Hope that semi-explains it. If you need pictures, send me a PM and I'll try to email some after I get home tonight.
  3. CdnDave77
    Good luck, Carl... give'em an earful (but slowly... they're politicians) and enjoy the ride there and back. See you when you return.
  4. CdnDave77
    Remove your spark plugs and take a good look at them. Keep them in order so you know which came out of which cylinder. if you can.. take some pictures and post them here so we can take a look. They should tell you a lot.. ie: too rich, too lean, uniformally identical or is one cylinder different. It'll give you a good idea where to go next. Just my two cents.
  5. CdnDave77
    I had to chime in due to an event that happened to me on my way into work this morning: I was approaching an intersection in my cage (raining lightly) where only my direction had the stop signs. The cross road is a very busy two-lane country road at that time of the morning. As I get within 50 feet of the stop sign, I notice a driver on the cross-road from my right slowing and signalling for a left turn (thus turning onto my road right in front of me). I continue to slow as I approach the stop. The oncoming vehicle begins to turn onto my road.. cuts it way too sharp, enters MY lane and head right for my grill ! At the last second, the driver pulls hard to her right, and sends the SUV she was driving into the ditch on the opposite side of the road. I put on my 4-ways, get out, approach her vehicle, and ask if she is ok. She is... and really no damage to the vehicle. The first words out of her mouth ? "I didn't see you !" Ok. Time for more information : I was driving my truck, a black Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4, with the headlights and fog lights on (therefore 4 very bright lights). The truck also has 35" tires, so it sits fairly high. Nothing but very low crops in fields on either side of me. How could she not see a vehicle easily twice the size of hers that had 4 bright lights... Within 5 minutes a passing cop stops, radios for a tow truck, takes my statement. My truck was still parked where it had been, about 10 feet back from the stop sign. He even shakes his head at her comment about not seeing me... but when I ask if she is going to be cited for anything, he says "No... why ?". I simply stated "I just as easily could have been on my motorcycle, and you'd be lifting that SUV off my body and informing my widow. That's why". He still didn't get it. I just walked away and went to work. If they would simply apply the laws that we have in place, maybe it would be a little safer out there.
  6. CdnDave77
    I have been trying to slather some grease into my speedo for weeks now. It is certainly better than it was, but it still squeals like a frightened hamster over 60 mph. I've been using a white lithium grease just pushed in with my fingertip around the cable... would a general purpose moly work through the grease fitting ? That is an awesome idea, Randy.. thanks.
  7. CdnDave77
    Tri-shorts are very similar to bike shorts, but have a much smaller and lighter chamois (pad) in them. I do triathlons.. where you swim, then bike, then run. Tri-shorts are meant to be worn in all 3 sections of a race, provide padding for the HARD bike seats (trust me, 112 miles on a bicycle is MUCH MUCH different than 112 miles on a motorcycle), but also be cool/wicking and not soak up a lot of water on the swim. They are thin, comfortable, cool, and the seams are not anywhere that chaffs. Any triathlon store or good running shoe store that sells apparel will know what you are talking about.. and if they don't have it, they will likely be able to direct you to the right place. They will also likely recommend a product called Chamois BUTTr. Which is a skin lubricant. Wonderful stuff. And, gentlemen... the ladies will love your legs in them.(if you really want to look authentic, racers tend to shave their legs).
  8. CdnDave77
    Well... as far as leaving the bike out while she mowed, I had assumed (wrongfully) that she would cut the front lawn first (where she started), instead of going all around the perimeter of the property. I had planned on getting the 2 year old launched on the backyard swing, then putting the bike back in the driveshed (safe zone). Somehow, she enthusiastically mowed into something (I am only speculating it was a pine cone), and the result is pictured above. Makes me glad one of the 2 kids do not have a pine cone embedded in their foreheads... however, I would have gratefully taken one in the shins rather than have it hit my bike. I am also still perplexed how she did it with a mulching lawnmower (no discharge)... Whatever she did, it took talent.
  9. CdnDave77
    I had pulled my poor old 83 Venture out on this bright sunny Monday (holiday in Canada), and gave her a thorough once-over : check the plugs for sootiness/too clean, any leaks, all fluid levels, air pressures, etc. My bride offers to cut the lawn if I can watch our 2 darling girls (ages 4 & 2) for the time. I say no problem (her having cut the lawn in... ummm, never). The girls and I play happily in the back yard, when I hear a "GGggrrrrunnnch" followed quickly by a "whack". The result is posted in the picture. I believe she hit a pine cone with the lawn mowver, which promptly decided to launch it full speed with significant rotational velocity towards my bike. Ugggh. I know it need some touching up anyways, but did she have to hit the one panel that was fine ?
  10. CdnDave77
    I found this while I was looking up some other things. Seems easy to follow and makes sense (to me anyways). It's a "Fault finding chart for motorcycle charging systems". Something to try ? http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
  11. CdnDave77
    My 83 came to me with a set of highway pegs mounted on the engine crash bars outside the lower plastic trim. I am also 6 ft tall and have fairly long legs. If you check the pics in my gallery, you should be able to see them... but where they are mounted is a bit too short for my legs. That said, it is a nice break from the standard pegs when you are on a long ride... and the wind out there cools your feet off a bit. I could move them a little further forward on the crash bars, but then I would have an ugly hole visible. I don't use them all that much so I am planning on leaving them right where they are.
  12. CdnDave77

    Driveshaft Zerk fitting ?

    Images added to a gallery album owned by CdnDave77 in Member Albums

  13. CdnDave77

    Zerk 1

    CdnDave77 posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Zerk 1

    From the album: Driveshaft Zerk fitting ?

  14. CdnDave77
    I just beat the rain coming home from work and managed to get a couple quick snaps in before the downpour hit. I hope these are clear enough after the resize. If anyone needs the ful size picture(s), send me a PM and I'll email them directly to you. Pic 1 shows the front carb (#2) with the vacuum line that goes to the boost sensor in place (connected to the vacuum port on the carb). Pic 2 shows the port with the line removed. This port was not drawing ANY vacuum at any rpm prior to a double shot of carb cleaner and being probed with a small drill bit.
  15. CdnDave77
    You fellas are dashing my hopes to avoid pulling the shaft (Boomer, watch your comments even though I teed that one up for you). Was it a dealer-added item (the zerk) ? Or do I likely have a replacement drive shaft housing ? The serial number on the old girl is #0379, so if they started at 0101, it is one of the first 300 made. I can't find any reference to the zerk in the service manual.
  16. CdnDave77
    If I can beat the rain home, I'll get the camera and take a couple of shots. I also need to take a picture of a mystery grease fitting that I seem to have on my drive shaft housing that no one else does.
  17. CdnDave77
    Well done ! When I got my 83, it was painted white, and I've always thought it looked great - very distinct. But yours takes it to the next level. Congrats !
  18. CdnDave77
    What is referred to as the "idle mixture" in the earlier posts is what I am calling the pilot. My error for not referencing it or sticking with the convention. I am having computer troubles trying to paste the diagram of the carbs from the service manual. It is the same screw in the center bottom of the carb, under those brass caps, if your bike still has them. And if you have an 83 like I do, there is no reserve.
  19. CdnDave77
    I'm not sure it is a problem... yet. But it is kind of a Just-In-Case. I may do an experiment & pull the chamber but plug the hoses themselves as 5Bikes suggested. That way, I can give it a good once-over, reseal the chamber and pop it back in. I'll see if I can document any mileage difference. Thanks fellas.
  20. CdnDave77
    Tim... I would set your pilot mixture properly first before doing the needle jet adjustment. I am not sure exactly where in the rpm range on these Mikuni's that the main (needle) jet kicks in, but I believe it is between 3000 & 4000 rpm. I am sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in here with the proper number. But if you do not have your pilot mixture set properly to begin with, your entire rpm range will be affected. The pilot circuits feeds fuel to the air (and therefore your cylinders) throughout the entire rpm range, but your mains (controlled by the needles) only kick in at a certain point and/or when the carb experiences a big increase in vacuum (ie: you open the throttle, the diaphrams sense the pressure difference, the sliders/needles open and allow more fuel to enter the air mixture). So, if your pilots are set too rich, your plugs will not only be sooty, but you'll bog slightly when accelerating because your engine is getting a rich mixture. Your spark plugs should tell you the entire story - a nice tan colour is ideal. If you search the internet on "spark plug chops", you'll get all kinds of information, but basically "chops" help you set your carbs up by looking at the results of running your engine at various rpms and then tweaking your carb settings for the best setting. Just my 2 cents.. but it has worked for my machines. EDIT *** I guess Marcarl and I differ here - I may stand corrected ****
  21. CdnDave77
    I've been meaning to remove the YICS chamber on my 83 before it becomes a problem. I bought some caps to plug the ports with, but got reined-in very quickly when I tried to get a good look at the inner YICS cylinder ports : the outer hoses are no issue, but I can't even see the inner ones. So my question is this : is it possible to remove the YICS hoses & cap off the ports without having to pull the whole carb rack ? It looks way too tight in there for my hands. I do have a 4-yr old, but she isn't all that handy with a pair of pliers (yet). Just wondering...
  22. CdnDave77
    Thanks for the tip... but when I took a look at the diaphrams last night, they appear to be relatively new. The PO (or one of the PO's) must have changed them not that many miles ago as there are no lines, bridge marks, white/stress areas, etc. Certainly no holes. I'll keep it in mind for when i do need it though.
  23. CdnDave77
    Mr. Marcarl... After letting the carb cleaner sit overnight in the vacuum port, I gave it another blast of spray when i got home last night. I had the bike running and there was still no discernable vacuum. Spraying the carb cleaner in didn't affect the idle so it obviously wasn't getting through -it just ran back at me. I gently probed the port again with a tiny drill bit and after a minute or so, I could hear a faint whistle. Another good shot of carb cleaner did the trick. (I acknowledge I blew whatever it was directly back into the carb, but I am hoping the carb cleaner carried it through). There was very definitely vacuum when I brought it up to 2k rpm. So, vacuum line to the boost sensor operational once more. I did a quick check of the sync just for insurance, ever so slightly tweaked 3/4 to 1/2, and considered it done. I rode it into work today and it is most certainly back to where it should be. Was it likely just varnish from old gas ? I'll never know likely.. but you were bang on the money, Marcarl (pm coming your way). Thanks to all for the assistance. See you on the road.
  24. CdnDave77
    I checked the synch on the carbs when I first got it running after the winter storage (a month ago),all 4 cyl's were very close to where I had set it in August after getting the bike. But it is very quick to check again. I'll post the result back after I do it, but it likely isn't going to be tonight : raining and cold again today. I am crossing my fingers that the carb cleaner in the vacuum nozzle worked some magic overnight. The more I think about it, the more there shouldn't be anything "stuck" in that nozzle as the "vacuum" flow should have prevented anything from the carb going in there. The service manual don't even show that nozzle/port in any of the illustrations... it should go right to the throat, no ? Thanks for the suggestions, fellas...
  25. CdnDave77
    As for the oil on the air filter, it was just a very light coating. It's certainly not a bad suggestion, but I have my doubts that it is restricting the airflow that much. If it were, it should be struggling somewhat at 5000 rpm, and not just the ramp up from 2000 to 5000. It accelerates, just slower than it used to. I'll pop the filter off, wash it again, and use a different oil. When I had the vacuum line off, I did give the carb vacuum port a bit of a probe with a torch cleaning rod. I am unsure of exactly how far the rod should could into the carb throat, but I did hit resistance after a bit. I didn't want to force anything until I could look at a diagram and figure out what I am hitting and how deep into the carb it is. I shot some carb cleaner (same brand) into it, let it sit for a few, and then applied another short blast. I'll try to get a smaller ID adapter today so I can get my vacuum gauge on that port tonight. If I put a small blast of air in that port, could I damage anything ? My diaphram is intact and I would like to keep it that way. The pictures in my service manual are somewhat grainy (at best). Does anyone have a good diagram of an 83 Carb (they were different the first year, correct) ? And although I am not doubting your word, Boomer... is there such a thing as a trouble-free motorcycle ? Other than the Honda XL-75 that I had when I was 9, I have never heard of such a thing. An older gentleman 2 streets over from my house has a 2nd Gen... offers to trade me even for my old girl every time I stop by. Wonder why ?
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