dmoff1698
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Everything posted by dmoff1698
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This weekend I decided to change the fluids in my 99 RSV, including a good radiator flush. One thing leads to another and decided after 10 years and 120K miles, I might as well change the thermostat while I was at it, even though I haven't been having problems. First let me say this is not a job for those short on patience. To get the housing out of the bike it must be disassembled a piece at a time while still in the frame. Finally got the housing out THEN called my local stealer. Just the way I do things. Holy $#%@..., stealer said he could have the new thermostat in two weeks, that is if I would bring him the paultry sum of $57.40. "For a @#$% thermostat? are you sure you"re not looking at the housing?" "No sir, the housing is pretty expensive.":starz: Now I don't see anything special about this thermostat so off to the auto supply I go. "Hey buddy, you got one of these?" "Yep, sure do." Sure enough, it is a Murray, Part Number 3168. Cross reference says that it goes into a 2000 Kia, Mazda, and Mercury. Best of all, $7.60 later and I'm out the door. One other thing, when doing this on a bike with this many miles. The water pipes (3 ea) that go to the thermostat housing have an "O" ring seal. Mine looked good but refused to seal when I got it all back together. Take the rubber "O" rings with you and get replacements while getting your thermostat. Otherwise you can pull that housing twice like I did. Aw hell, they're $.30 each, go ahead and get them anyway, no mater how many miles you got! Anyway, I figure if I had all the parts up front and only had to do it once, this would have been about a 3-4 hour job. Took me a full day.
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I've noticed that most of us here have riding partners if we want them. I have not noticed anyone offering to share. Now I have absolutely no problems with you looking, but there is a place for everything. Maybe you should be posting this on Craigs List.
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Thanks Rottdoglover for the reply. I'm thinking that the modification to the rear end is beyond my capabilities but will have to study your reply a little deeper. The 90 degree gearbox is something I have thought of, but have no idea where to find such a thing that I could be confident would hold up under road conditions. I actually have looked at a couple, but they were designed/used under low speed conditions. This may all end up being a pipe dream anyway, because you see.....I'm basically lazy and have a short attention span. Not a good combination for a trike build. If anyone out there has a trike they would like to sell for..say...$2.83 let me know and I will see if I can come up with that much.
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I have been taking inventory of a collection of parts I have stacked up over the years, and think I have most of the makings to build my own trike. My problem is that the engine I want to use has a chain drive, and I'm at a loss as to how to attach a chain drive to a car rearend. Then Wallllllaaaa!!! Rottdoglover states in another thread that he has done just that. How??? All ideas and instructions entertained.
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My first officer's mother bought herself a trike two years ago................for her 82nd birthday!
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Ken, Are the scratches on the piston, or just on the cylinder it'self? If the piston wrist pin has worked loose, it will put 4 scratches in the cylinder wall, two on each side, just like you describe. If the scratches get bad enough, that wear pattern will transfer to the piston, but not be nearly as deep. The wrist pin is held in place by a couple small clips installed on each end of the pin. If those clips break or come loose, the pin will work from side to side, until it hits the cylinder wall and starts cutting groves. Over time, these groves will transfer wear to the side of the piston. On the other hand, if the scratches are just on the piston and not on the cylinder wall, well.....that is just not something I've been able to imagine or have any explination for. Dale
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Hey Ken!! Last summer I decided to do a last minute oil change just before leaving on a trip. Drained the oil, swapped filter, then noticed I had picked up 10W30 oil instead of my usual 10W40. No time to make another trip into town for new oil. Poured in the lighter weight oil and left on my little get-away. Everything seemed normal for the first couple hundred miles, then started getting a definite rattle/knock (only noticable at idle). If you listen real close, it sounds like it's comming from the case in between the front and rear cylinders. If this was my old Honda, I would have sworn that the cam chain had worked loose. Very concerned. Long story, short, when I got back home, I changed the oil back to my normal weight, and the niose went away and has never came back. So if you have changed oil in the last few hundred miles, are you sure you got the right weight oil in there? By the way, I've had the trailer home for a couple months now, and had a chance to go over it real well. It's everything you said it was! Thanks Dale
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I keep a close watch on my mileage and am confused:confused24: Daily commute to work: solo, 50/50 city-hiway = 40-43 MPG Flatland Hiway trips: 2 up, heavy trailer, 70 MPH = 35-38 MPG Mountain trips: 2 up, heavy trailer, 60-70 MPH = 47-50 MPG Why-oh-why does my mileage go up 10+ MPG when driving in the mountains and all other conditions remain the same? This is not a single occurance, but has been consistant since I've owned the bike.
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I think Oklahoma has found a cure for it's ecconomic worries. We were just notified by our SCRC State Officer that as of 1 November, Oklahoma has a new traffic law: Anyone ticketed for speeding in a construction zone (any speed) will face a MINIMUM fine of $1000.00. Anyone who has an accident in a construction zone...the fine starts at $5000.00 and if a hiway worker is injured you are looking at $10,000.00 ticket. Now I don't know about the rest of the contry, but here in Oklahoma they put out the construction signs and cones, then apparently go on vacation for the next 6 months before doing any work. Also, most of the time they don't work on weekends and holidays (or if it's raining, too hot, too cold, too windy, etc.) I try to keep an ear on the news and there hasn't been any widely publicised discussion on this, so I doubt many know of it. One person said they heard a short on the evening news one time, but that was all. So if anyone is passing through the OK state, beware!!
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Well it's not a done deal yet, but we're getting closer every day. Dave and Ken are in touch with each other, and working out a date and time to meet in Nashville. Once that is done, I can start making plans to make the trip to meet with Dave and pick it up. I'm currently in California on a business trip and won't be home till Monday, but that's OK because it looks like Ken won't be able to leave till after the middle of the month. It's comming together nicely. and I appreciate your interest. Thanks Dale
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Thanks for the offer Nashbird, I sent you an e-mail. You too Ken. Dale
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I'm Taking Brad's advice and starting a new thread on this. I have purchased a camp trailer from 1-UP in Flordia. Now the problem of getting it to it's new home in central Oklahoma. Ken has kindly offered to bring the trailer as far as Nashville, but I am heading out to the West Coast on the job on Monday and won't be back until the middle of November. Can't get out of it. I was hoping to find a Nashville member who would be willing to meet with Ken and take posession of the trailer until I can get out there at the end of November and pick it up. Ken's schedule isn't set yet, so I can't tell you when he will arrive. But we can work it out. Setting up a relay from Nashville to Oklahoma would be more fun, but I won't be around to coordinate. Sorry. Thanks Dale.
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Well, Ken and I have come to an agreement on the trailer, and there's only one thing left to do..... Like I said before, I can't get away right now to ride all the way from central Oklahoma to eastern Florida and bring it home. I was hoping for a relay, but that didn't work out. Ken has kindly volunteered to bring the trailer north partway sometime in November. Unfortunately, I'm on my way to California on the job, and will be out of pocket. What I'm asking for now, is if we have a member in or near Nashville who would be willing to meet Ken when he comes through, and store the trailer until I can get out there. I certainly hope I can get there by the end of November, so I would only be troubling you for 2-3 weeks. Ken's schedule is unsure right now, but maybe if we find a volunteer, he can firm up his plans. My time will be flexible after I get back and only dependent upon the weather. Wat chu tink?? Any Volunteers Thanks Dale
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Woooopee!! Getting the trailer back here is my biggest concern. If we can work out a relay, then I think we have a done deal. I live in central Oklahoma. I'm able to travel partway myself, but of course that wouldn't be as fun.
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Ken, I may be interested, how far are you from Bradenton, Fl? I have a Daughter there. I'll give you a call in the AM.
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I just had to post this. My wife and I are currently on vacation, riding the 99 RSV from Oklahoma, visiting our kids in Colorado. Well to make a long story even longer, we got as far as Fountain Colorado when I apparently got some air in my clutch line. No workie at all. Worked my way off the interstate and into a service station. I promise you I had not been there more than 3 minutes before another Venture Rider stopped and asked what the problem was, hopped off, grabbed his tool bag and went to work. Within 5 minutes, ANOTHER Venture Rider showed up and stopped to help. Looked like a convention. As luck would have it, we needed a tool that none of us had with us, so off he went back home and returned with all we needed. 30 minutes later and I am back on the road!!! So if anyone runs across Tim L. from Fountain Colorado, you just met a hell of a nice guy. I'm sorry I didn't get the name of the second rider, but my thanks go out to you too. You're never alone on a Venture.
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JB The Exact same thing happened to my 99. Going along fine then nothing!!! Your problem could be in the ignition switch, but before you spring the $160 for a replacement, do me a favor. Remove the seat, battery, and battery box. Attached to the + battery cable you will find the starting relay just below the battery box. They tell me you can see the relay by removing the left side cover, but I don't see how. Mine was a solid mass of corrosion so that you couldn't tell what it was supposed to be. I cleaned it up as best I could and found out the corrosion was the only thing holding it together. Ordered a new one, installed, and back on the road again!!! That is, up to 6 months later when I had to replace the ignition switch!!!
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Engine or tranny rattles. Normal???
dmoff1698 replied to buford7657's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Buford My 99 has the same racket, only in neutral. Has had for the last 20K miles if I use oil less than 10W40. Even 10W40 will not take it all out on a very hot day. As long as your clutch is working smooth, I wouldn't worry about it. -
After turning over 100K miles on my 99 RSV, I'm begining to hear some extra noise comming from the top end. sounds like I need to adjust my cam chain. I have done this several times on older bikes, but I never have on this one. Is there anything special i need to know or watch out for? Thanks in advance!!
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Possible Valve Problems
dmoff1698 replied to dmoff1698's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Thanks for the input. I'm glad to hear that my basic vacume readings are in the normal range. I normally run seafoam or similar about twice a year, and very seldom push the bike hard during rides. So maybe the carbon idea is right on target. I have noticed a slight decrease in mileage lately. I think what you are really trying to say is that I'm not having near enough fun. -
:sick:Hey, I need some professional advice here. I have a 99 RSV with 98K on the clock. The bike is running smooth and strong, but since it had been over a year since I had checked the carb balance I thought now would be a good time. After warming up the bike, I hooked up the gages and to my suprise I got some really strange readings. Both of the left hand cylinders were reading close to 12 inches of vacume which I would expect to be low. The two right hand cylinder readings were swinging so wildly they were totally unreadable. Thinking there may be something wrong with my gages (?two of them?) I swaped them around with the same results. I slowly increased the RPM and at what I judge to be around 1300-1500 RPMs the right hand gages suddenly stabalized and read within a couple inches of the left side (12 inches). Returned to idle and the gages started swinging again. Now if this were my car, I would say that only 12 inches of vacume was late ignition timing or a vacume leak. With electronic timing and multiple carbs probably not. The wildly swinging gages would indicate a burnt valve, but a valve that bad should be detectable in the way the bike runs. And two valves on the same side at the same time is a bit of a stretch. Can anyone point me to a solution? What vacume readings do you experience.
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I was also dissapointed in the seating arangements, but I still enjoyed meeting a great bunch of real friendly folks. Wildhair and I hit it off right away, just before he gave my wife a big hug. The look on her face was priceless. Yep, yep, real friendly folks.:rotf: Thanks again Rosebud, If you decide to do this again, even at Pops, count me in.