Locomotive

If you have a Harbor Freight close to you you can buy a set of allen head sockets which will have a 17 mm in 1/2 inch drive. This set costs around 13.00 dollars and it works awesome. I bought a set when i did my seals. You can also order them online from harbor freight. You will need an impact wrench also to remove the lower nut on the forks. It is not hard to do but an impact wrench is essential. I installed a set of lifetime warranty seals in my bike and i was able to tap them in place with a centerpunch but it would be much faster if you make a tool to tap them in place with. I had no results when i used a rubber mallet to remove the lower forks instead i used a sledge hammer and a piece of board to remove the lower forks. Place the board on top of the axle, grasp the handle close to the head of the hammer and hit the board with solid blows. I was able to remove my forks fast with that method. Good Luck,

Went to a shop that has a good reputation for tires and goodies also a few friends said go there if you need tires or a helmet. I asked for a price on Michelin Commanders and the shop owner said the michelins were not that great of a tire for a heavy bike like mine. Said Avalons or Dunlops only. So now what?

The wife and I went out on a ride last week. I hit a pothole which made the forks bottom out soooooo I said enuff with this. So in the last few days i have replaced the fork seals because they were starting to weep, new brake pads on the front, AND put in a set of progressives. What a change!!! Now the forks are sturdy and the ride is much better. Might do a superbrace next year but for now I'm RIDING:322: Thanks to this site i have probably saved 500 bucks just by reading on how to fix it myself.

Yep, Shell Rotella T 15/40 is a very popular choice with liquid cooled bikes. Very popular and reliable. You can buy it at any truck stop and auto parts store even wal mart carries it. It has no friction modifiers so it is safe for our motorcycles. To me 20/50 is a little thick for my part of the country plus our bikes dont run as hot as air cooled bikes. But if people have good results with it ya cant argue with that!! :cool10::cool10:

Jerry, any Wal-Mart or auto parts store will have the gl-5 rated differential fluid you seek. Generally 80/90 wt is a gl-5, and some that are more expensive will have an additive for limited slip diffs' which will not cause any issues. Just read the back of the label and it will say gl-5 rated suitable for use in Hypoid gear apps, etc. Most pick ups use gl-5. Good luck:322:

I did miss my cb 900 and i wasnt sure if the Venture would ride as nice. Well lets say that the 1300 has a lot of giddy up and the ride is very comfortable. I'd say it is a keeper!!!

Mine was doing the same thing. I bought a sodder iron and some flux for a grand total of 10 bucks. Repaired the computer in less than a hour. This site rocks:guitarist 2:

With all the good info I have read on this site I thought i would chime in with a tip. First of all the fuel filter is difficult but not impossible to remove but i didnt want to repeat that madness everytime i needed to change it. First of all to remove the filter i used needle nosed pliers,a flat blade screwdriver, phillips screw driver, 1/4 drive ratchet, a phillips bit (from my cordless drill)and a socket to hold the bit. You will also need to visit NAPA and get 3 zip ties and a NAPA 3011 fuel filter, It costs around 3.50 and it is a paper element so it will stop all the bad stuff and it is encased in clear plastic so you wont be guessing if there is any crud in the filter. I removed the sidecovers and shut off the fuel valve and freed the fuel line from the metal strap that holds it in place under the fuel tank. On the other side where the filter is i used the 1/4 ratchet with the bit and i was able to loosen and remove the screw that holds the filter in place. It wasnt easy but with a little dexterity i was able to fit the ratchet between the swingarm and frame with my right hand and hold the head of the ratchet with my left hand to maintain pressure on the screw till it was off. I removed the screw that holds the filter bracket to the frame and removed the bracket and now the bracket has a home in a drawer. Use the needle nose pliers to squeeze the clamps and slide them back on the hose. Use a flatblade screwdriver to pry the fuel line from the filter on both sides and toss that milky colored filter.The beauty of this whole post is a napa 3011 fuel filter will work and is shorter and easily fits in that tight spot and it will not collapse when you are at full throttle. Just clip off the smaller diameter ends of the filter tube and attatch to the fuel lines. Slide the clamps back over and now you have a nice clear filter but the whole thing kind of flops around. Put a zip tie through the hole where the filter clamp screw was and wrap it around the fuel filter. Now you can use the other zip ties to secure the fuel line. I just tied them to the frame and did it so the fuel filter is nice and level. You can put some electrical tape on the fuel line before you zip tie it if you think the zip tie might rub a hole in the fuel line. Dont forget to hook the line back into the metal strap on the other side. Now you can change the filter next time quicker than the guys changing tires on a racecar at a nascar race. Just use a pair of snips to cut the ties, loosen the clamps,replace the filter and reassemble. Put on 3 ties and you are DONE. This filter is close to the diameter of the stock filter so you purists out there can put it back in the clamp if you want. It is not as long as the stock filter but hey i can replace it once a year for 3.50 versus not replacing the filter this year because the stealer wants 20.00 bucks. Good Luck:sun:

With all the good info I have read on this site I thought i would chime in with a tip. First of all the fuel filter is difficult but not impossible to remove but i didnt want to repeat that madness everytime i needed to change it. First of all to remove the filter i used needle nosed pliers,a flat blade screwdriver, phillips screw driver, 1/4 drive ratchet, a phillips bit (from my cordless drill)and a socket to hold the bit. You will also need to visit NAPA and get 3 zip ties and a NAPA 3011 fuel filter, It costs around 3.50 and it is a paper element so it will stop all the bad stuff and it is encased in clear plastic so you wont be guessing if there is any crud in the filter. I removed the sidecovers and shut off the fuel valve and freed the fuel line from the metal strap that holds it in place under the fuel tank. On the other side where the filter is i used the 1/4 ratchet with the bit and i was able to loosen and remove the screw that holds the filter in place. It wasnt easy but with a little dexterity i was able to fit the ratchet between the swingarm and frame with my right hand and hold the head of the ratchet with my left hand to maintain pressure on the screw till it was off. I removed the screw that holds the filter bracket to the frame and removed the bracket and now the bracket has a home in a drawer. Use the needle nose pliers to squeeze the clamps and slide them back on the hose. Use a flatblade screwdriver to pry the fuel line from the filter on both sides and toss that milky colored filter.The beauty of this whole post is a napa 3011 fuel filter will work and is shorter and easily fits in that tight spot and it will not collapse when you are at full throttle. Just clip off the smaller diameter ends of the filter tube and attatch to the fuel lines. Slide the clamps back over and now you have a nice clear filter but the whole thing kind of flops around. Put a zip tie through the hole where the filter clamp screw was and wrap it around the fuel filter. Now you can use the other zip ties to secure the fuel line. I just tied them to the frame and did it so the fuel filter is nice and level. You can put some electrical tape on the fuel line before you zip tie it if you think the zip tie might rub a hole in the fuel line. Dont forget to hook the line back into the metal strap on the other side. Now you can change the filter next time quicker than the guys changing tires on a racecar at a nascar race. Just use a pair of snips to cut the ties, loosen the clamps,replace the filter and reassemble. Put on 3 ties and you are DONE. This filter is close to the diameter of the stock filter so you purists out there can put it back in the clamp if you want. It is not as long as the stock filter but hey i can replace it once a year for 3.50 versus not replacing the filter this year because the stealer wants 20.00 bucks. Good Luck:sun:

Well i must say thanks to all for the tips and to this site for all the good info. I have saved a chunk of money by not having to go to the stealer for repairs besides "they dont work on old bikes like mine". So i have changed all the fluids and Im going to do some minor repairs on the plastic, install new seals and progressive springs just as soon as they arrive next week. With the info on this site it should be a piece of cake. After that me and some of the guys are riding to the Ozarks for a little fun. Everybody at work likes my bike and says they wish they had a cb and a radio and all that trunk space. Im happy because i told the wife i wanted a bike ( havent had a bike since i sold the cb 900 12 years ago) but it had to have a windshield and a good back seat so the both of us could ride easy. Well i must say momma is very happy with the rear seat and the view. She says she likes to ride on THIS motorcycle. So i guess were keepin it.

Where do i get them and are they better than new stock oem springs?

Well that little piece of plastic that the rubber do dad attatches to actually bent on my bike. Lost one of those rubber grommets also. :doh:Anyone know if i can use pvc or cpvc glue on the inside of the cover. Im concerned that it may melt the plastic.I have one crack to repair and i can probably rig up somthing to act as a tab. Or can i get by and ride without the rubber thing. If ya got a spare grommet drop me a line.

COOL!!

What brand of intercom system do i need to buy to hook up to the system on my bike. I know that the voyager has a different pin set up than say a goldwing. Im looking for helmets that already have the system or something that i can install in the helmet. Sorry for the new guy questions but i got the fever:banana:

That isnt the sugar coated answer i wanted to hear but that is how it is. Im more concerned about the bushings being damaged or even wallered out due to being dry. I have read up on this and while i have to grease the swingarm i might as well install the zerks so this will be an easy job from here on out. Hopefully i will have some room to work to get the swingarm off. It rained all day yesterday and looks like it will today:rain2: so im gonna repair the class computer and dry the dessicant then i might tackle the swingarm today. I enjoy this bike and Momma really likes to go on rides with me because the rear seat is so comfortable.

What is the easiest way to lube the swingarm on my 86? i hope it wont be as difficult as replacing the fuel filter.

Hello to all!!! I have noticed a front end wobble on my bike. I put on the cruise control and took my hands off the bars a couple inches and within seconds it started to wobble. I have never had a bike do that:no-no-no:. I read up on this in another section and how many foot lbs of torque do i have to put on the bearings after i repack them? This site is awesome:happy65:. So far i have read up on how to bleed the rear brakes on my bike and how to repair the suspension computer. I need to put seals in the forks so that will be my next project minus the stealer mechanics bill:rotf: