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Showing results for tags 'wires'.
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This is hopefully the last thing I have to do before getting this bike finally on the road. Looking for advice so I don't remove anything unnecessary. What all do I have to remove to get all the plug wires changed out? Thanks. -
I have a short in my light bar. (I guess that's what you call it...The chrome bar that holds the turn signals and the ?Fog lights? They are on sometimes and off sometimes. It is not the switch (which seems to be built on to the cigarette lighter. When they are working, the switch will turn them on and off; but when they are not working, turning the switch on and off several times, never brings them back online. I have removed the seat and jiggled wires and never got the lights to go on or off or even flicker. Even when they are not working, everything else on the bike works, even the front turn signals which are attached to the light bar. My next plan of action is to open the fairing and trace the wires. Just thought I would ask about this, in case there was some common problem that was known and someone could point me in that direction. Thanks dana
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My headlight has lost it's brightness. At first it was only on the dim side now both high and low beams are not working correctly. THe headlight indicator on the dash is lit also. When this first started happening I could reach in and move the wires behind the headlight and it would work now nothing. I can not see any broken or frayed wires. THere are many things I can do but electrical is not high on that list. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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I thought this might be of interest to you GL1800 0wners. Installation is fairly easy. 1 Remove the screw through the bottom of the housing. You'll need a good phillips screwdriver, the factory screw has loctite. 2 Wiggle the mirror while pulling it toward you. It will slide out eventually. On the bench the factory mirror is on the right. 3 Mirror housing with mirror removed. 4 From the front of the motorcycle, peel back the rubber boot to expose the wires and connector. 5 The wires are long enough to pull out in order to install the supplied harness. You have to lift the catch on the factory connector to disconnect it. 6 New harness connected, ready to fish through to the inside of the mirror housing. 7 Muth mirror turn signal connector protruding into the mirror housing. A little tricky to get it in there, just be patient and work with it. 8 Wires connected, I have them on top to better show them. Actual installation was with wires laying on the bottom of the housing. The extra length of wire was pulled back to the outside of the mirror housing and stored inside the fairing by the rubber boot. 9 Carefully slide the assembly into place, making sure the two tabs at the top are properly inserted into the factory bracket. Install the supplied screw. Viola!!! A turn signalling mirror.
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My original caps did not fail internally. But had oxidized from age. And due to the high cost of the OEM caps. I replaced them with NGK caps and new copper core wires. NOW-After having ALL my NGK replacement caps fail internally with little mielage on them. Which I posted on another thread. FYI- This will happen to them all. They are junk. NOW, I am wondering if anyone has found 7mm graphite or other wires with RUBBER caps like older cars use...that fit properly on our small (in automobile terms) spark plugs??? I know we are to have some resistance in the wires or caps....thus graphite type is my 1st thought. -
I'm still here!!! No Internet for three days!! How many were celebrating??? Thought you got rid of me didn't you!!! "Former" contractor chopped wires that go to phone and Sat wires. When it rained and it ran down the wires everything went out!! Phone went out,Internet went out and TV went out!!! What did we ever do before these things. I ain't telling how the Warden and I passed all that time with it cold and raining outside.... But I'm Still Here!!! Did I mention she cheats at cards???
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Hi guys, hoping one of you savvy lads out there can help me out. I have installed some bright LED signal lights on the RSV, and being LED they will naturally blink rather fast.. To slow such lights, we typically install Load Equalizers.. No problem there.. The recommended ones from Custom Dynamics: Genesis Metric Load Equalizer 7.5 Ohm GEN-7.5-30 These are small blocks that have two purple and one black wires coming out of them.. And ideally you install one on each end of the bike for each set.. one of the purples to the GREEN and BROWN signal light wires and the black to ground.. Simple right? ergh I wish. I've temp installed one at the front under the fairing where the wires are very accessible, and the other in the bundle under the license plate.. Brown and green.. Though they will slow down the 4 way flashers.. they have NO effect on the signal lights.. I know I have the right wires because when I pull them apart the signals lights stop flashing... I then took the large bundle under the seat, to the left side, and plugged one of the equalizers into the green and brown wires there.. and now the 4 ways and signal lights flash fast.. I have the SAME load equalizers working on my VSTar, it works.. the SAME one won't work on the RSV.. I have 5 of these, and none of them work on the RSV but they will on the VStar.. Am I doing something wrong here as to what and where I'm plugging these in? I've seen other posts where people have the same same equalizers working on their bikes and mine won't work.. Any ideas, suggestions, advice? Am I plugging these in the wrong wires? Fast flashers don't bother me but you know how it is.. how many times before I growl at someone for them saying "Hey Mister, you know ya got a light out??" Thanks in advance for your assistance.. If you're using something else that works, let me know what it is and WHERE / HOW you plugged it in, please.. Cheers =) Bike is almost ready for the road.. that is when the ice melts.. -
1984 Venture Royale. Picture makes it look nicer that it really is. Missing tour pack and few mounting tabs for the plastics. Also there is a medium length crack in the fairing below the mirror. Best thing is I paid $700 dollars and it only 13,1xx miles. Radio works (1 speaker), cruise works analog/digital gauges work and air suspension also. Original owner passed away 2 years ago and spent most of the time in his garage being banged up. Purchased 2 years ago by the seller I got it from and he only put 400 miles on it. I was originally looking for a gl1200 after getting rid of my Electra glide classic and road king in the past two years to play around on the cheap, but I felt the price on this bike was too good to pass up. It does not get good gas mileage and does not seem to have a lot of power or I thought it was going to feel stronger than it does. Seems to run fine, but lacks resposiveness off of idle when starting from a stop. Plugs, filter and oil were just changed by the previous owner. He has been running sea foam in the tank for the last fifty miles in preparation to sell the bike. Plug wires look bad with tape and the such so I want to change them. Almost feels like it only runs on two cylinders and the two rear header pipes do not get very hot. It got about 26.5 mpg on the first tank for me. Obviously my biggest gripe is the power and mpg. Since I will start first with plug wires, do these bikes have individual wires to plug from the coil that I can replace or are they built into the voil and require cutting? If I can just buy wires, who are the best retailers for this bike? Another gripe I have is the front brakes are inadequate. Previous owner did pads on the front and back, bake brakes are great fronts feel like they are glazed. Maybe they are glazed or is this the nature of the beast? Are new rotors available? I know the pegs are adjustable, but not enough for me. Who sells a nice highway peg so I can stretch out on long rides? This motor puts off some heat going down the road, wow was not expecting that yamaha routed the hot air to hit your legs while driving. Can the 2 holes on each side of the fairing by the rear cylinders be covered or are they required to properly cool the bike? Tks and I'm sure I will have many more questions. [img]http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p75/jurob_2006/photo5.jpg[/img] -
I am gonna sue the makers of canned spray foam for not putting in bold letters that it should not be used bye idiots. I rewired my trailer to head to Vogel and the flex conduit they used was held in place with spray foam, well after running the wires I picked up a can to reset the wires and I thought I would just use my fingers to spread it out, did I mention I was on my back, so now I have spray foam all over my hands and I rolled in some that dripped on the driveway ( did I mention this stuff takes hair off better than wax) now I have hairless spots on my arms and foam on my fingers I can't get off. If only I had a brain.
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Hi there only had the venture about a week know, but have been checking through it for faults and doing routine maintenance . Apart from the slight whine from transmission , and the audio not working, oh and the slightly slippy clutch. The bike is awesome and in excellent almost as new condtion and im very very pleased i bought her ! But as ive been cleaning and checking over the bike ive found some wires that dont seem to go anywhere one has two wires with a corroded plug, which is strange as theres no corrosion anywhere on the bike at all. The other two plugs have four wires in one and two wires in the other all the wires appear to be black in colour ??? Ive looked in the manual but cant seem to find them ? Can anyone tell me what they might be for. Cheers Edge [ATTACH]59373[/ATTACH]
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Hi guys, one last attempt with a new load equalizer to slow my signal flash rate. In the rear of the bike I have normal LED cluster but in the front I have the Custom Dynamics Moon Shinez white signal lights which is most likely confusing the system from accepting the normal load equalizer practice of placement. I recently picked up the Custom Dynamics Street Magic Metric equalizer unit but after discussing it with another member, it would appear we have the same unit but there lies some confusion about the wires and seemingly different instructions for the same product. The instructions I have says to hook the RED wire (which has a fuse holder and battery connector lug) to the battery... The BLACK wire to a suitable ground and then the BROWN and the PURPLE each to the right and left rear signal wire. (They state the REAR signal wires and it's supposed to work to quell the speed on front and rear LED signal lights?) The other member has his connected to the signal flash relay located under the right side cover (the square looking black relay) and says his actually does work, slowing down the flash rate properly... but his instructions and unit have different colours. The relay connector plug has 5 wires to it laid out as such: BLACK YELLOW WHITE with white stripe BROWN BLANK BROWN with red stripe with white stripe In order to make this unit work, and attached to the wires on the connector, which wire does what on the connector? What's the best way to find the correct wires as per instructions? Either I've been working at this too long and now totally confused or I'm just too jittery to experiment and blow up the bike..! If you know for sure (no wild guesses, please), drop me a line and fill me in.. It's totally possible that the Shinez front signal lights are indeed impossible to make work with a load equalizer but I dunno.. These lights stay ON bright and when signalling, they simple switch off... then on, then off.. instead of the typical dim running lights blinking brighter.. perhaps these are impossible to slow down? Anyway.. late night, time for bed.. hopefully someone will have the solution.. Thanks in advance. Cheers
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In the highly unlikely event that you collide with something small in road and the sidestand switch is damaged, cut the lead going into the switch. You will find two wires. Remove a little insulation and twist the wires together. Just make sure the stand is up before you leave. Didn't show up until I stopped for fuel. Put the stand down and the plunger must have stayed mashed, 'cause the bike wouldn't start in gear, only neutral. And died when I put it in gear. (Stand up or down) Switch must be jammed in open position.
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i just had something like this happen when i left the hood open on a car in the rain. i replaced the wires and all was fine. THIS BIKE WAS PERFECT FOR THE PAST 1000 MILES UNTILL YESTERDAY I LEFT IT OUTSIDE IN A HORRIBLE RAINSTORM. i checked all the spark plug boots ( three of which are new) to see if the water got into them but they all have there protective seal over the top and bottom of the boot. its arcing somewhere but WHERE? I was just telling myself the other day how much i liiked that the rain didnt affect this bike. IT was a bad storm the other night, so far its been drying for about 1 day and still misfiring. i checked the kickstand wires which i already had rigged and i even cut and attached the wires for the kill switch and i think i already removed the tip over switch, please please help, ps im sure i wouldnt be having this problem if only i had closed the vents on the side of the motor.... -
I have determined by testing and using a jumper wire that my 83 VR has a bad wire from the switch to the first junction behind the headlight. Running a second wire is no big deal but wanting to do a good job of it, how do you get the switch out of the casting for the master cylinder/lever. I have taken the "bracket" loose and everything is good to pull the little section of old wires out but it appears that the wires do not unplug from the switch and I need to get the swith out to have a better look (switch shows as part number four on the parts breakdown and is part number 26H-83980-00-00 - sells for about $35.00) Any help? Steve Neal -
hi again all. thanks a lot for great replies on my led question great group here will definetly be joining perm. but now i have problem. this is my first older bike so im not very sure of the mechanics but love the bike 1983 venture!! got it a month ago was idleing hard had a yamaha dealer fix he rebuilt carbs and changed plugs. ran great for 200 miles. then last night went for little cruise and ran very hot started dogging out from standing start offs got home noticed clicking from right rear cylinder the spark was jumping from plug boots to motor . to hot and dark to look at it . i dont think he canged plug wires do you think its just that or something worse? or i guess these are the put together yourself wires do you think it just came apart at the boot? thanks again all -
I installed 2 sets of Stebel ELectric horns. I used the exiting 2 sets of wires, Left wires for the front set and right for the rear set. Each set has its own relay. The horns have been working for several months. This last weekend during an hour ride it seems that the horns were not as loud. When I got home I press the horn button 4 times as I touched each of 4 the horns. The rear horns does not work. I took both of the rear horns off and wired them directly to the battery and they work. I put a new relay on and still does not work. I would like to start troubleshooting with the 4 wires at the relay, only I've forgotten what wire goes where. Could someone fill in the blanks for me 30 comes from where ____________ 85 comes from where ____________ 86 comes from where ____________ 87 comes from where ____________ Thank you. Brian
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Well on of my biggest fears of owning an old motorcycle has come true. I have a melting wire connection. I am hoping this is or can be an easy fix. This is the Left side of the bike. As you can see from the picture its is melting the plug and attached wires. from what I have been able to see the lower connection of the plug goes down to some kind of vented box mounted behind the rear foot peg and above the exhaust pipe. The upper connection loops up and then down with a group of wires that shoot into the case going forward of the bike. The wires are only hot and smooking when motor is running. I tested with key on and it was cool, tested with key on and run switch on and it was cool. I am keeping my fingers crossed that this is going to be an easy and fix. http://i906.photobucket.com/albums/ac264/bobandlou3/IMG00085.jpg -
I have a Streetpilot 2730 w/ the car adapter w/ one of those round speakers in the cable. I think one of my sons got ahold of it one day and hasn't worked right since. I would keep losing power. Well I took apart the speaker housing and there are 6 wires total. 2 to the speaker (I never cared for using the speaker), 2 to that outlet that is on the side of the speaker housing (have no idea what it is so I know I won't miss it) and the power and ground wires. I completly cutoff the 1st 4 mentioned wires so you can barely see them. This just left the power and ground wires exposed. I hardwired them into the bike and now the gps works great. There was plenty of length of wire from the Garmin harness so I was able to run it down by the fork, under the tank and next to the battery where I already had a fuse box I installed a couple years ago and pick your own spot for ground. All in all it was free and I didn't have to spend $30+ for the motorcycle wire kit.
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I hope someone can help me. I have a 2004 RSV and I need to wire my gps. I don't have a owners manual. I would like the gps to have power only while the key is "on". Where is the best place to run the wires. Thanks.
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Sometimes students come into my class and I'm sure even they don't know what they been smoking. BUT have you ever had conversations with a pair of gurus who KNOW what they been smoking? I'm posting up the latter part of conversations I've had with them. If you're a guru (who knows what they are smoking) what would you say? Have to figure out if it is electrical or fuel issues. New plugs, ride it, and then look at them. Running hot or fouling. Rough in low rpms? does it clear when you get it going? Rough all the way through? Then you think about what to start looking for. Good answer eh Also it would be interesting to note whether or not the plugs are firing inside the engine. You'll have to go for another ride to here to find that out. Also, did you remove the ignition wires when you changed the motor, so are the wires going to the right plugs from the right coils. Still need to know what kind of ignition wires you have,,, copper or carbon? The other thing could be that the boots under the carbs are not seated properly, they may have come off after you put them on properly,, it happens,,,, that would give false air into the cylinders and also throw off a carb tune, and so you would have the same symptoms that you have now. Carbtune done with Tuckett's unit, with Tuckett watching, I've done it a dozen times myself too. Wires are copper, not carbon. Wires were not removed during this engine swap. Regardless, I know which wires go where. Carbs are seated properly on the boots. I've taken the carbs off the bike every winter as part of my normal cleanup, with last winter being a total rebuild, ran good. On reinstallation for one of those times I didn't get them seated properly on the boots and noticed that fact by how it ran before I got to the corner stop sign, black smoke, that is not the problem this time. I'm concluding it's a fuel delivery issue. How about you? Plugs removed looking a very little bit white ...too lean a mixture? If it were my bike sitting here, I would check all the plug wires to make sure they are firing properly,,, just to rule that out,,, buuttt too lean a mixture will also give you problems but then it would tend to bog out when you twist the throttle,, which I don't think it does. Some more questions then: Do you need a choke for a cold start? Does it run better with the choke partially closed? Did you replace the fuel filter? A far out question,,,, are you sure it's a 1300 engine? Something that's interesting is the way it starts and takes off, doesn't seem to be any problems there. Post it up, and see if anybody else has better ideas. Carl some more answers then... I need choke for a cold start, same as always, between a quarter and half of the lever. I does not run better at partial choke. Fuel filter gets replaced with every rear tire change. The Pinwall Cycle video shows the bike coming in was a MkII with '89 colours. The engine that I picked up had all the 1300 badging on the side covers. I'm still stuck on ignition. When I sprayed WD40 into the intakes, it didn't change anything. So if the fuel delivery was on the low side or none at all, it should have smoothed out, if the fuel was rich it would have started bogging down, that's why I would think ignition, and I would like to see if those plugs are firing under load. Did you do a compression test on this engine, if it's low in a couple of cylinders, it would also present the same symptoms. I'll tell ya'll what I say.....if I start caring more about what an engine looks like than how it runs, I must be gettin ready to ride a 2nd gen...OH WHAT HATH BECOME ME!
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I am aware that there was a change to the TCI & pickup coil set up on the 90-93 VR (after reading tech library) However all the manuals I have state that there is 5 wires coming from the pickup coil (stator)case & Ohms should read 100-125. This 90VR has 6 wires (colors not the same) & unable to get any Ohms reading. Question: Should there be Ohm reading at the 6 prong plug & what should that be? Is there a way to test the TCI? I have spark & compression with rebuilt carbs will not fire or run (its like the timing is off) When the plugs are pulled there seems to be a film but not soaked with gas. Fuel pump fills float bowls & shuts off, pilot screws are turned out 2-2 1/2 turns, choke plungers all work. Lacks gas flow. Is there a need to prime carbs? I am grasping at straws. :canada:
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Ok folks Im coming to better minds than myself for this. I just used seafoam in my wifes 01 explorer in the crankcase. Ran it a while to get the oil up to ooperating temerater and then drained it while it was still hot. No problems and all seems to be fine. WHile I was waiting for things to drain I reread the side of the sea faom can. It says you can add it to the crannkcase at 1 1/2 onces to quart of oil and leave it in for prolonged cleanig. Is this adverse to the engine or will I be ok to do this. The explorer has almost 150,000 miles on her and still going strong so I dont want to mess things up but would love to have the peace of mind that Im doing all I can to keep it clean on the inside of the motor at least. Any other ideas will be apreciated also. As soon as we get themoney we will also have it uned up completely as its on the original wires and plugs. David
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I have this little black box hooked into my headlight wires. It is an obvious aftermarket, or add on. It simple is a 2 wire little black something with no name on it, the two wires go from this llittle box to the ground and I think high beam power wire at the headlight. It has scotch lock style fasteners so I know it is not factory. Just cannot imagine how something that has nothing but 2 wires coming out of it "tagged onto" the headlight wires does anything, but I know its not put there for looks LOL Again the headlight wires are NOT cut and this thing put in as something the power is running through, it is simply tagged into the wires by use of scotchlocks which I do not like.
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I've swapped out my signal lights to some decently insanely bright LEDs and have a pair of Load Equalizers to take up the load to make the signal lights flash at the normal rate etc etc.. One for the front and one for the rear lights.. However, though I know which wires go where, I do not know the best location to tap into the wires for this.. Can someone who has done this before be able to point out to me where best to located the wires on the bike to tap into for the best (note easiest) access? Thanks in advance. Cheers
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How much work is involved to change the sparkplug wires ? My bike runs a little Rough, and I changed already the Sparkplugs..and now, I was thinking about to change the wires.
