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Hey guys, I just purchased an 05 RSTD and have some questions. I'm wanting to go the bagger route. Here are the questions: What is the largest rim I can put on the front stock? I've seen people with 21" wheels, but I think they were ventures. I'm looking to put a 23" wheel on. Which brings me to my next question.. Does anyone make a raked triple for an 05 RSTD? I've only been able to find them for 01's and lower. Will the rear fenders that Baddad sells for the Road Star bolt on to the RSTD? If I switch to K&N pod filters and have exhaust should I goto a stage 2 jet kit? I have a batwing on the bike now, but I'm thinking I want to switch to a Road Glide front fairing. There's a guy over at roadstarclinic that sells the brackets for the swap, but their site won't let me register there to buy one from him. Does anyone know where I might be able to buy them from? Thank you in advance for any help you're able to provide!

83 Venture Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement (This document in Word format attached)83 Venture-Rear-Wheel-Bearings-Replacement.docx. My apologies for the formatting below - outlines don't come out very well in plain text. See the Word doc. I was experiencing some rear noise and vibration when leaning to the left and it was becoming progressively worse. I had never done the ‘Venture Rear Wheel Service” as documented in the forum (Ozlander 09-17-2015), so I decided to undertake that. I took the original write-up, and broke it down into numbered steps so I could check each one off as I went (I just find that a little easier to follow). I have included that below. I did not find any problems until I came to the bearing inspection part of the process, I did notice a little bit of roughness in the gear-side bearing (the needle bearing), but even more unusual, there was significant play in the inner bearing collar that forms the inner race of that bearing (it would slide in and out about 3/8’s of an inch). So I decided to undertake a replacement of the entire set. I searched the forums high and low for information on how to do that, and found a number of them, but there are differences between the different generations (to be expected), and there may be differences between the 3 years of the first gens. I can only speak about my experiences with this 83. After reviewing the various forums, I began the process of ordering the parts. Here is the complete list of parts as extracted from the YAMAHA parts website (https://www.shopyamaha.com/parts-catalog/parts/star-mcy?ls=Star&dealernumber=#/Yamaha/XVZ12TK_-_1983/REAR_WHEEL ) 1983 XVZ12TK & TDK per Yamaha's web site Item # Part # Description Yamaha price 3 93317-32635-00 BEARING, CYLINDRICAL | Use w/Item 28 38.78 kit 2 90560-20235-00 Spacer 19.37 4 90387-200J2-00 COLLAR 14.22 5 93306-30417-00 BEARING 32.18 kit replaced by part # 93306-30437-00 6 99009-52500-00 CIRCLIP 6.41 7 93102-25064-00 OIL SEAL 7.64 kit 12 93440-45022-00 CIRCLIP 6.67 13 93210-68347-00 O-RING 4.72 kit 14 2H7-25315-00-00 FLANGE, SPACER 5.5 partzilla 15 93106-40027-00 OIL SEAL 8.27 kit 28 90387-203H7-00 COLLAR | Use w/Item #3 15.41 partzilla Total $ 159.17 Don’t let the Yamaha price scare you, as you can’t order any of this from them anyway. I listed it just for reference purposes as I shopped around. I found a reference in one of the forums to a kit from OEMCYCLE (Pivot Works part # PWRWS-Y23-000) and it was available for $55 so I ordered it. The only drawback was that they did not list the detail parts that were included in the kit. So I waited until it arrived to find out exactly what was in it – those are noted in the list above by ‘kit’ - it was missing two critical parts – Item 14 (FLANGE,SPACER), and Item 28 (COLLAR). The name for Item 28 is a bit of a misnomer as it is actually the inner piece of the needle bearing that functions as the inner race for that bearing (and is the piece that I noted above was moving in and out suspiciously) – the YAMAHA site specifically states that it should be ordered in conjunction with Item 3 (the outer portion of the needle bearing). OEMCYCLE did not list that part as orderable (nor did the Pivot Works site either), so I was able to find it on Partzilla (along with the SPACER FLANGE – more about that below). The parts I did not order and reused were the two circlips, the SPACER (Item 2), and Item 4 (COLLAR) which is more of a washer that is external to the bearings and seals. I should note at this point, that in my original Service Manual for the 83, the Rear Wheel Diagram (Page 5-7) does not show Item # 28 (the COLLAR that forms the inner race for the bearing) – it is present on the Yamaha Website diagram – I have now penciled it in on my manual. REMOVING THE OLD BEARINGS: I searched the forums for some details on this, and was not confident that what I found would actually pertain to the 83. I was able to find a webpage (by searching for the bearing part numbers) which documented bearing removal for an XS11 and looked exactly the same as what I was seeing on the 83 Venture. It was good up to a certain point, but then deviated from the reality of the 83 as I will note below. So here is the link – good pix and text – I will summarize the steps my buddy (Tim Tucker) and I actually took and where we had to deviate from the XS11 procedure. Link to pix from XS11 Yamaha – had same part # for one of the bearings: http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/tech-tips/repairs/32/193-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-pictorial.html 1. Starting on the brake side, we used a seal puller to remove the oil seal, exposing the circlip underneath. 2. We removed the circlip, so the bearing could now be pounded out from the opposite side (in theory, once you have that side opened up). 3. We turned the tire over (setting it on a pair of wood 2x4’s to protect the brake disc) and tried to follow the step in the XS11 procedure – it shows using a seal puller to remove the seal and collar – that does not work for the 83 – the seal and collar are a different part. The seal on the 83 is rubber/vinyl with an external metal ring (that is pressed into the hub) but more importantly, it contains a tiny embedded coil spring – the spring is what prevents the collar from pulling completely out of the bearing. We ended up cutting the outer rubber portion of the seal all the way around until we exposed the spring, then pulled that out with a pair of needle nose pliers. That allowed the inner collar to slide completely out. With the extra room, we were then able to grab the rest of the seal with a pair of diagonals, distort it, and twist it completely out. So what you are left with at this point on the gear side is the outer race and needle bearings. 4. The XS11 procedure now states to hammer out the big bearing from this side, by shifting the flanged spacer over, to gain access to the outer race of the big bearing. This is an oversimplification of what needs to happen (for the 83 at least) and is a good time to describe what is actually in this hub and how it is meant to fit together. The design is that the long Spacer aligns with the inner race of the large bearing and with the inner race (the ‘collar’ noted above) of the needle bearing so that those parts remain relatively stationary while the wheel itself rotates with the outer races. The Spacer Flange is there to maintain the proper alignment of the long Spacer with the center of the large bearing – because the cavity at that end of the wheel hub is the diameter of the large bearing, so there is all that space for the long spacer to flop around. The Spacer Flange is basically a donut that is the same diameter as the large bearing, and the long spacer fits inside the donut hole, lining up with the inner race. At this point in the removal, we did not understand that. We could not get the spacer to ‘shift’ as the XS11 procedure stated – it would wiggle very slightly, to reveal the edge of the inner race, but no more. We eventually resorted to hammering on the spacer with a large drift pin, which basically distorted the Spacer Flange until the long spacer came loose from the center of the Spacer Flange and was then free to slide all around the inside cavity of the hub, revealing the outer race of the large bearing and making that accessible to hammering with the drift pin. Of course the Spacer Flange was sitting on top of the large bearing, but being thin metal, it was perfectly fine to hammer on it to pound out the large bearing. Once that popped out, the mangled Spacer Flange came with it, and the long Spacer fell out as well. Knowing what we know now, we suspect that it would have been possible from the needle bearing side to pull the Spacer/SpacerFlange assembly up thru the needle bearing (the Spacer is the same diameter as the needle bearing collar we removed above) just enough so that the Flange portion would clear the housing above the large bearing – it might pivot just enough to get a drift pin down thru the spacers and catch the outer race of the large bearing, allowing you to hammer it out – the next person to follow this procedure will need to update this document with their findings. 5. That left just the needle bearing still in the wheel on the gear side. The XS11 procedure had a picture showing two cutouts in the inner wheel housing that would allow you to insert a small drift pin to hammer out the needle bearing from the opposite side. Unfortunately, there were no cutouts on the 83’s hub. The hub completely blocks any access to the bearing from the opposite side. I considered drilling my own holes, but eventually decided against that. So at this point I cried uncle, and took the wheel to a local bike shop. For a half-hour labor’s charge, they told me that they ripped out the needle bearings form the outer race, then used a small bearing puller that budged it enough so the inside edge of the bearing was then exposed enough to catch it with a drift pin from the other side, and finished by hammering it out. 6. Installing the new bearings: we laid out the parts and slid them onto the axle to verify we understood how it needed to go back together. Started with the large sealed bearing, then the Spacer Flange (open side against the bearing, followed by the long Spacer, then the Collar (Inner Race of the needle bearing) and then the needle bearing itself (which we had not yet greased up and so we did not actually slide the collar into it). This is the point where we first really understood how it all was meant to work. When we initially slid the Spacer Flange up against the large bearing, it was contacting the bearing’s rubber seal and wanted to turn with the outer race. We knew that couldn’t be right, and it finally dawned on us that the long Spacer was meant to fit through the Spacer Flange and thus keep the flange from contacting the rubber seal. a. So the next step was to insert the long Spacer into the Spacer Flange. This is accomplished simply by laying the Spacer Flange on a flat surface (open side down) and tapping the long spacer through the center until it comes into contact with the flat surface. The end result is the long Spacer protrudes thru the flange to allow it to contact the bearing while preventing the outer edge of the Flange Spacer from touching the bearing seal or outer race. We verified that by sliding everything back onto the axle and now the only parts touching were those that lined up with the inner race of both bearings. b. Lay the wheel with the large bearing side up c. Insert the Spacer/Flange Spacer assembly into the hub (long spacer first – it will protrude out the other side of the hub). d. Insert the new large bearing into the hub and gently hammer into place. We used the tip from the XS11 instructions and had already cut a notch out of the old bearing, so we laid the old bearing on top of the new one and hammered on that until the new one was completely seated. The old bearing pops right out of the wheel housing when squeezed with a pair of plyers. e. Install the circlip f. Install the new seal g. Flip the wheel over – the Spacer/Flange Spacer assembly should slip back down and sit on the newly installed bearing h. Grease the new needle bearing i. Install new needle bearing – again we used the old needle bearing (which we also had notched) as a hammering tool. j. Apply a little grease to the new Collar (inner race) and insert into the needle bearing (smaller end first). It should butt against the Spacer inside the hub. k. Install the oil seal l. Reinstall the hub per the instructions in the Rear Wheel Service document i. Apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. ii. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. 7. The wheel is now ready for installation.   Venture Rear Wheel Service You may ask, "Doesn't my dealer do that?" NOT UNLESS YOU TELL, HIM THAT YOU WANT IT DONE. This service should be completed every tire change or 10,000 miles (16,000k) or at least every two years; but in most cases it isn't done because we don't always have a dealer replace our tires and/or we don't tell him to do the work. So if you just bought the bike or you are not sure it has been done, it would be a good time to think about servicing the rear wheel of your Venture. The procedure is fairly simple to do on bikes without a trailer hitch and only a little harder if your bike has one. 1. Remove the rear bags 2. Remove the right muffler 3. Remove the rear brake caliper 4. Deflate the tire; then remove the rear wheel: a. Remove the axel cotter pin, washer, and axel nut b. Remove the caliper and loosen the pinch bolt c. While supporting the brake torque stopper plate, pull out the rear axel d. Move the wheel to the right side and separate it from the final gear cases and remove the rear wheel. 5. If your Venture is a 1983, 84, or 85 you will need to remove the rear drive or differential and remove the drive shaft: a. Remove the final gear case assembly b. Remove the drive shaft. 6. Clean the drive shaft and coupling, then grease both ends before putting it back in (note: make sure that the shaft goes back into the u-joint. If you are not sure, remove the spring on the boot covering the u-joint and check it. Next clean the spline or gear on the rear drive and grease it with a good quality grease, personally I use a medium Moly based grease. 7. Wheel cleaning/inspection: a. Now find a couple of 2" x 4"s and place the rear wheel (spline side up) on the boards. b. When you clean the hub and splines off you will see the spring clip or circlip that holds the hub in place; i. remove this clip and before you remove the hub mark the position of the hub so you can replace it in the same holes it came from. ii. Now clean the hub and inspect it for wear iii. Then apply grease to the inside of the hub and to the six posts that fit into the wheel. iv. Check the o-ring on the wheel to be sure it is in place before you replace the hub and circlip. v. Check the bearings inside of the wheel and check the bearing movement; if they are rough or worn replace them. 8. Now for the mono shock pivots: a. Place a jack under the rear drive to take the strain off of the mono shock then dissemble. b. Clean and grease all of the pivot points and reassemble (if you have a 90 - 93 or you have had grease fittings installed, just give them a squirt). 9. Before you install the rear wheel take the axle and put it back through the swing arm into the final drive to check the alignment. If you find that it is in a bind you will have to change the wedge shim between the final drive and the swing arm. 10. Check the oil level in the rear drive or replace the oil if it has been 10,000 miles since it was serviced and check the brake pads for wear. 11. You can now reassemble your bike and have another year or two of trouble free riding.

Heard this on the news last night. Appears They will be making several different off road models here and the 3 wheel slingshot. Tiny north Alabama crossroads of Greenbrier is excited, wary about new Huntsville Polaris plant | AL.com Bringing 1,700 more jobs to the Huntsville area. Want a job at the new Polaris off-road vehicle plant in Huntsville? Here's what we know now | AL.com

Hello all Time for a rear tire and I want to pull the rear wheel off myself and take to dealer. Do i need to remove the saddlebags, exhaust, ect??? Never pulled rear wheel before. This is on a 99 RSV, Thanks!!!

2007 Second Gen with 100000km on it. I have purchased new front and rear wheel bearings/seals and new swing arm bearings/seals. Plan on replacing all of them this winter. Does anyone have any experience or tips on how to remove them. Thanks in advance. Jim

I doubt many put their bikes on the lift backward, but it is quite handy when removing the front wheel. They drummed this into us in school (with lots of practice because it ain't easy) and I always put bikes on backward when working on the front wheel or forks. In addition to my new starter the 89 is getting steering bearings. It's on a Harbor Freight lift backward for the work. The wheel, forks, steering head, instrument cluster, headlight, windshield and top panels are removed. The fairings are still on. The handle bars are resting on the fairing stay above the headlight opening. There are two helmets in the trunk and some junk in the bags. When I lowered the lift I found that in that position the center of gravity is forward of the front legs and the motorcycle and lift tipped down (at the rear of the bike). Fortunately my weight on the hydraulic pedal kept it on the floor until it was down and my foot came off so it only dropped about 3". Raising the lift back up required a lift on the passenger grab rail to keep the motorcycle from falling over backward. At about 1/4 height the center of gravity was back to where the lift stayed on the floor. I wanted to pass this along because if I'd stopped going down at 1/4 or pulled the steering head below that level it would have done a back flip. Don't want anyone to find this issue the painful way.

Curious what a fair rate is to take off the rear wheel on a HD Roadking and swap the pulley and rotor on to another wheel and reassemble. Essentially the same amount of work to replace a rear tire. I know shop rates vary, but a reasonable amount for the southern region?

Just replaced the pads on the rear of my 85 and now the rear wheel needs alot of convincing to turn. I had to clamp the caliper to get it back on the wheel. Put it all back togeather easily enough. Will it wear down and let loose after a long ride? Its a little hard/near impossible to push it back into the garage. Thanks for the advice.

I think I will me replacing my front wheel bearing. (I feel a buzzing in the handlebars & a whirring sound when I lean into turns even thought the bearings are not sloppy) So I have to buy a puller. I know the Tusk bearing remover set would work 8mmm- 31mm but it's $90 and a tool I don't use often SO.... My question is will this Harbor Freight set work as well. It's Standard sizes not metric & since IDK the size of the front bearing I figure I will ask here. http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

Since Outcast was stuck in SC with a front wheel bearing gone bad, it got me to thinking. Wouldn't it be a good thing if we could do some research and see if parts could be found that would work in a pinch such as this. I'm thinking most bearings could be cross matched with something from the automotive line or even heavy equipment house. Is there some way to use the oem part number and find out what the actual dimensions are for a given bearing, such as the front wheel bearing without having to dismantle someone's bike to measure the bearing? I think this could turn out to be a good thing if someone is broke down far from home on the weekend. As was stated in the other post, most metric dealers are closed on Sunday and Monday. What if a bearing could be had from, God forbid I would even suggest this, a Harley dealer! A lot of them are open on Sundays.

I just mounted a 1st gen center stand on my 99 RSV. I now need to remove the rear wheel to replace the wheel bearings. Is it possible to do this using the center stand instead of the bike lift? I'd hate to remove the center stand to facilitate the bike lift. I'd have to remove both bags and one side rail but will I still need to jack the bike up to get the wheel out or is the center stand going to be high enough ( the rear wheel is 1.5" off the floor with the center stand).

Im rebuilding the rear wheel with all new bearings, spacers and seals. I have a question on the proper positioning of a spacer flange on the disc brake side of the wheel so maybe someone here who has had to rebuild their wheel and/or someone who has removed the bearings on that side can answer this. Or maybe someone who has a rear wheel laying around with the bearings removed can chime in too. The spacer flange is a stamped steel spacer with one side flat and one side hollow. It goes into the wheel just behind the wheel bearing and seats into a cut-out in the axle opening, followed by the bearing. What I need to know is what side of the flange faces the bearing. The flat part, which im leaning to or the hollow portion? The parts fiche offers no help. Thanks

Hi riders! My 03 2nd gen is giving me trouble. The front end is a mess. It feels sloppy and unsettling all the time. In a lean, the front end is wobbly. I put it on a lift, grabbed the front wheel, don't feel any head bearing clicking. I don't get any bounce back when I send the bars to one side or the other. The tire is perfect, no cupping, the wheel is rotating as it should be. Back on the ground, and facing down hill, I let it roll a bit, hit the front brake and I can feel a click. I don't feel the forks bounce unusually. I have a new Works rear shock which is fine. I've got 21k on it. Never did either the bearings of fork work. Anyone want to come to long island and help replace it all ? Any ideas.

Hey all, I've got a 1999 RSV with 46k miles and I noticed yesterday that when I do 60 mph, I get a humming noise from the rear tire. when I lean to the right the humming becomes MUCH louder, & when I lean the bike to the left its just a little bit louder. When I speed up to 70 mph or slow down to 50 mph, the humming goes away. I believe it's been there for awhile, I just usually have the stereo playing and have never noticed it. Does this sound like a worn wheel bearing? and when it hits its harmonic frequency at 60mph it humms? Is replacing the wheel bearings a difficult task? Do I need to purchase any special tools to accomplish this? Thanks D.W.

Today I was working on the bike and thought back to my first shaft manipulation. I was much younger then and it took me about an hour to manipulate my first shaft encounter. WOW was I pooped!!! Well today im a bit older but wiser and as I was manipulating my shaft it was all over in 45 seconds!! I was aiming blind into the dark abyss and before you know it, I was done!! Just think, one day I may not be able to manipulate my shaft ever again!! Well, at least its coated pretty good with Honda Moly 60 now. Should last a long time. Wait, what were you all thinking???? I was greasing my driveshaft and installing the Vmax rear. What the ............Some of yous are really sick...... Also removed the last of the scorched rear wheel dampeners that Chrome Pros left in the wheel when they chromed it. Took much manipulation (again?) with a SawZall and a metal cutting blade along with a blind hole puller to remove them. Cleaned out the bores with a sanding drum and installed the new dampeners. Tomorrow AM ill install the new bearings in the wheel and just maybe ill have it buttoned up. Hmmm, still have to break the Avon off the old wheel and mount it on the new wheel. Yea, learned how to do that by hand as well. :smile5::smile5:

Hi Venture Friends I am a newbie to Venture rider I just bought a 1987 Venture 1300_ I bought it cheap and of course Has its problems . All the diaphyrams in carbs are busted no problems with handling this problems. MY BIG CONCERN IS THE TRANSMISSION-'THE REAR WHEEL WAS JUST STUCK ON . I REMOVE WHEEL TO TEST DIFFERENTIAL ETC--FOUND LOTS OF PLAY IN TRANS. I COULD MOVE DRIVE SHAFT APPROX 90 degrees back and forth except for 5th gear in which was nor mal I drain oil no signs of metal in oil . My question what should back lash be when rotating driveshaft- WHY IS IT SO MUCH PLAY IN 1 thru 4 but. 5th to me is nornmal Thanks. Jim C. Carson City. Nevada:bacp

Before I alter my rear wheel, I thought I better ask this collective of experienced minds, if any of you know of a better way to get a 16" rear wheel onto the back of a newer RSTD ? I want to run on radial tires. Period ! So we all know that no one makes a quality brand radial tire in a 15". You have to go 16" or bigger, to be able to buy radials for the bikes. Therefore, I am looking at sending my rear wheen down to Kosman Industries, to have the make my OEM rear wheel into a 16" rear wheel. Their website explains all the procedures, and costs. http://kosmanspecialties.com/ I would do this in the Winter, when I am going to be needing new tires anyway, and I can afford to have the bike down for a couple weeks. So, before I do this, does anyone else have ideas of an available 16" wheel that will correctly fit on the rear of a second gen bike? Or something else to do ? IMHO, I believe I can make this bike a better ride on good radials, versus the bias belt tires. Please let me know...what you know. Thanks, Miles:detective:

HOW TO IDENTIFY WHERE A DRIVER IS FROM One hand on wheel, one hand on horn: Chicago One hand on wheel, one finger out window: New York One hand on wheel, one hand on newspaper, foot solidly on accelerator: Boston One hand on wheel, cradling cell phone, brick on accelerator: California. With gun in lap: L.A. Both hands on wheel, eyes shut, both feet on brake, quivering in terror: Ohio, but driving in California. Both hands in air, gesturing, both feet on accelerator, head turned to talk to someone in back seat: Italy One hand on latte, one knee on wheel, cradling cell phone, foot on brake, mind on game: Seattle One hand on wheel, one hand on hunting rifle, alternating between both feet being on the accelerator and both on the brake, throwing a McDonalds bag out the window: Texas Four wheel drive pickup truck, shotgun mounted in rear window, beer cans on floor, squirrel tails attached to antenna: West Virginia Two hands gripping wheel, blue hair barely visible above window level, driving 35 on the interstate in the left lane with the left blinker on: Florida

I'm looking to buy a trailer. I'm particularly interested in a single wheeled type. Anybody out there pull a single wheel like an N Line, or Uni-Go, or anything like that? Looking for pro and con feedback. Thanks so much, Lynn

My front wheel bearings disintegrated and wormed out my front wheel. I bought new bearings but when I removed the old bearings the wheel and sleeve were worn and wormed out. So I guess I will have to replace the wheel. Anyone have any ideas besides the dealer. I do not know what they cost but I do know there are cheper places than the dealer. Thanks Quicksilver Thanks guys for all the info and quick to. this is the best source of info on the net. Thank all of you again Quicksilver

While one of the advantages to running a car tire on your bike is longevity, don't forget maintenance. The other day I left dinner with a group of friends, just like I have done many times in the past. Pulled out into traffic shifted to second gear and heard the sound that sounded like ball bearings in a blender. I coasted over into the left turn lane and came to a stop. One of my buddies pulled up along side of me and asked what was wrong. I looked at him and said, I'm in second gear, both feet are on the ground, my hands are in the air, the engine is running, and I'm not moving!!! Your guess is as good as mine. So we pushed the bike off the road and into the parking lot and shut it down. Luckily for me I was close to help. My buddy went home and grabbed his trailer, (about 3 miles away) and we took the bike to his house. Now comes the problem. We removed the rear wheel, and found the splines on the clutch hub, (the gear on the wheel that connects to the rear differential) was stripped clean. This is why regular maintenance is essential. After further thought, my rear wheel had not been removed from the bike for 30k miles. When I was running a M/C tire and changing it every 8k to 10k miles, that hub was getting cleaned and greased regularly. Fortunately there was no wear or damage to the differential and $104 later for a new hub and dust seal, I was back on the road. Just thought I would share this little bit of info. If it saves just one person from braking down on the road, my job is done.

Has anyone here removed the rubber dampeners from their rear RSV wheel? Im not talking about the fingers but the actual rubber bushings that sit in the wheel. Just got my chrome wheels back and the rubber was destroyed. Any ideas??

Which way does this spacer go on the rear wheel? This spacer goes against the rear wheel bearing and is the seal surface the seal rides against. There is a raised shoulder on one side while the other is flat. Pictures of both are attached. I am assuming the raised part goes against the bearing since it is the same diameter are the inner race. And yes, those are the balls from the rear wheel bearing. Not good. RR

Ive looked all over the site and I cant find information on adjusting the swingarm bearings on the RSV 2gen and I have misplaced my shop manual CD. Does anyone know the procedure? I'm assuming I will have to remove the headers to get to the nuts with the proper tool. I have popped the covers and I really dont know what I should turn first. I already have the mufflers, the saddlebags, and the rear wheel off the bike for a tire replacement. There is a noticeable amount of sideplay in the swingarm...im guessing its about 1/8 inch movement at the ends of the swingarm. Thanks in advance.

Does anyone have a nice step by step or a series of photos for the removal of the rear wheel? I am looking at new tires and am Unwilling to let the bike butchers at the dealer touch the bike or charge me an extra $350.00 to remove the wheels from the bike.