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Showing results for tags 'washer'.
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For those of you who have done valve adjusts and timing checks . You know that the chrome cover on the engine's generator cover must be remove when manually turning the crankshaft. You also know there is a"special washer" that must be removed. This is part of the "stator cooling" assy.. NOW, which way does this go in. Or does it not matter? It is basically a washer w/ 2 sides(edges) slightly angled. And also the center is "pushed thru" as stamped from the factory. Which way should it sit? with the washer looking almost even w/the crank bolt or w/the washer set so the rough center faces out...and not flush w/bolt??? I was doing work on it today and forgot which way it goes. I am such a putz.
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RE: help me out of this mess Post earlier- 87 Venture Royale with pulsating brakes and washer questions- Got my new brake pads today, and then I spent time aligning the caliper housing. I swear that aluminum bracket was cantered a few degrees off of perpendicular to the axle. I threaded a large carraige bolt through it and used "my little freind" (see pic). A few whacks clearly nudged it. I wonder how it got bent. Then i had to only shim the back bolt with one thin washer. Everything looks square, and the pads are even and the rotor is tracking very close to center front and back. I can't test drive it of course until my new throttle cables arrive, but the rotor is no longer hanging anywhere in the rotation of the wheel. [ATTACH]35449[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]35450[/ATTACH]
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I took out the I basket and put the H basket today and when I put it back together I had a problem. The washer that fits between the clutch basket and the clutch boss went passed the spline that it sits in and is now resting on the shaft and spinning freely. I put everything else back together and it all fit correctly. I test drove it and all seems fine, but still puzzled about that washer..The I basket was getting way too loud. thats why I changed it back...Has anybody run in to this where the washer goes passed the spline..Thanks for the help...
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This weekend I discovered the rubber gourmet had wore out and let the screw pull through. The battery cover (or fake gas tank cover) flipped up and hit me in the face. This is Not a good thing going down the highway at 75 mph. Luckily I caught mine and got stopped with no danage. Make sure you check this and add a washer to prevent this from happening to you. I added a dime size washer tio mine to keep it down at high speeds..... Here the pics. 1 pic is the rubber gourmet 2 pic is the washer added to the screw 3 pic is everything put together. 4 pic is closer shot of everything.
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After changing the engine oil to Rotella 15w-40, I still had the clutch slip a few times in 5th gear on hard acceleration at 4-5k rpm during my 120 mile commute to work to today. I see a lot of posts referring to replacing the springs for only $10, but I checked both BikeBandit and Chapparal and they both listed them for $7.97/ea. Since there are 6 of them, that would be around $48 total plus shipping and I still have to locate a new clutch cover gasket too. Any ideas or suppliers? Will a proper sized washer placed behind each spring upon reassembly accomplish the same thing? I haven't taken it apart yet to see if they are out of spec, but I'd like to be prepared to do the job once and not leave my bike unusable for a week waiting for parts. -
I had the dreaded wobble in the front end of my 84 VR and after talking with Skydoc and Lonestarmedic they instructed me on how to change the steering head washer without taking the fairing off and it worked like a charm.I just took it for a ride and it is nice and stiff with no wobble.It only took about an 1 1/2 hours to take it apart adjust the bearings and put the furber fix washer in and put it back together. Thanks again guys Venture Riders are the best. TOM
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As Promised, I now have an ad in the classifieds for a reasonably priced Steering Head Replacement Washer for the First Gens. Here is the link to the ad. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=1579 The price is $3.00 with shipping to the 48 US states. To be honest, I have no Idea what it would cost to ship to our friends way up north, but what ever it is I will only charge the actual shipping cost, nothing more. I also wanted to give my thanks to Lonestarmedic for sending me his washer so I could copy it. JB, your washer is on it's way back home, with some "friends" for your help! Steer Safe, Earl
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Hi, does anyone have the step washer for the back wheel that goes between the wheel and the caliper bracket, and the washer that goes between the caliper bracket and the swing arm!! desperate to get in a few more rides before snow fall. thanks Gord
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What is the correct location of the thick washer on the right side of rear axle? Is it against the wheel hub or against the swing arm? This affects the rear caliper arm mounting position. The service manual does not clearly show this that I can find. Thanks, Gary gary@dinges.com
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I purchased a set of Baron's Bag Slash slip-ons (BA-1030-00) for my '06 RSTD. When I got to step 6 in the instructions - "reinsert the OEM rear mounting bolt" I ran into a little problem - the OEM mounting bolts (one per side) are about 1.75 inches to short. On those pipes there is only one mounting bracket so I was at an impasse. I went to my local hardware store and located the bolts I needed: M10-70, Fine Thread, as well as (2) flat washers, (1) lock washer and (1) nut. When you install the pipes you will see that the spacer provided falls into the hole in the muffler mounting tab. To prevent that do the following: Take the bags off if you have not already (I have the RMark quick release things for this). Place a flat washer on top of the mounting bushing in the frame where the OEM bolt used to go through. Put the new M10-70 bolt in the hole. There should be a flat washer on the bottom of the bushing already. If not add one. Slide the Baron's spacer onto the bolt, slide a flat washer under the spacer. Slide the muffler onto the end of the exhaust pipe and put the mounting tab on the bolt. The flat washer should be resting on the mounting tab with the spacer above. Place a flat washer then a lock washer and then the nut. Tighten the nut to snug it up finger tight. Tighten the exhaust pipe clamp (you are now at #7 in the Baron's instructions). I placed my clamps bolt head down to prevent water from sitting in the heads. Follow the Baron's instructions from #7 on. When I saw that the OEM bolts were too short I did call Baron's who gave me a rough measurement of the bolts in inches. I spoke with Baron who said they would have the instructions (on the web and in the box) and parts kits checked to make sure all of the proper bits are in there. The pipes sound great on so all in all it worked out. Regards, gp -
Just in case you all were worried about little olde me, as two members who emailed me today were, Scamper is back to her old normal self with a little more life than usual. This maybe due to the fact that she's been sitting since mid November or due to the fact that she now has been babied and caressed beyound believe. Second gear was fixed, carbs cleaned but not rebuilt, engine cleaned out thoroughly, new oil and filter, tender loving care in many adjustments,,, tightened engine mounts solidly, new plugs (non-risistor type) maybe not a good idea), so far lots of noise,,,, new Avon on the back, new pads all the way around, some new bearings, seals and clutch basket, (I'll not say why), clutch installed according to book instructions, which means that you put the basket in first, then the thrust washer, then the boss, after which is the locking ring and finally the nut. Yea I know, the thrust washer needs to be in the right place, you can't just put it somewhere and hope it goes to where it should be,,,, doctors have it much easier, they can just throw it all back and it will striaghten itself out LOL. So last night about 11:45,, 2 scoots were headed for Burford for a quick test run and soo far everything checks out super. Boy what a good feeling. Thanks all for the help and input and concern,,,,,,,,,,,,,,we're on the road again........................... Carl
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Well I quit for the night. Had it all together with an extra spacer washer to take up some of the slop on the driven gear, then after I torqued it all down the tranny was stiff and hard to turn, so I took it all apart again, removed the washer, set it up loose and verything was ticka di booo. Put the bolts back in, after cleaning everything again and new gasket stuff, and now it's the same again. It's hard to turn and a real bugger to shift, feels like it's jumping through the rotations. Any ideas?? Is this normal until it gets full oil or should I look for something else? -
OK, here is one for ya. I took the mixture jet out of the carb and all be damm if I can't remember witch way they go back in. Is it spring, washer, o-ring, or spring o-ring, washer. Any help would be greatly helpful...
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85 venture royal thruster washer re: second gear
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I understand that "up to a certain model number" there was a factory authorized replacement thruster washer to solve certain 2nd gear issues. Does anyone know what was the relevant number ? I am assuming that bikes manufactured after that particular number would have had the "hard" washer factory installed. -
I took the rear wheel off to check the placement of the caliper bracket, the washer looked to be in the wrong place. The collar was missing, I sure could use one if any one has one they could part with it. Some one put a new tire on looks to have put no collar, caliper bracket, washer then forced the swing arm over to keep the wheel in place. I would like to know the order of the parts to put them back. Collar,Bracket,Washer.
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