M61A1MECH

Here are the bulletins I could find from a source I have. looks like the "I" basket is special order by the dealer thru area factory rep. Maybe Freebird or one of the moderators could get these added to the Gen 2 tech section.

As far as I know the official name for the blue used on the 07 was Galaxy Blue, that is what I always saw when Yamaha refered to it.

You can also check out my ad, here http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4943&title=run-2fbrake-2fturn-light-bar-for-2nd-gen-venture&cat=35 I use the light bar from R&P Carriages also. Completely plug and play, you get additional tail lights, brake and turn signals. I am waiting for light bars to arrive, R&P had to replace last shipment because they were all damaged due to poor packaging from the manufacturer, I expect to have some in stock in a few days.

A standard factory geared Royal Star Venture with a Dyna 3K ignition module set on I think 3 will do 90 in third gear with no trouble, 100 to 110 in in 4th or 5th no problem. Two things, 1. These are typically noise bikes, the straight cut gears in the tranny make a lot of noise, but they last for ever. 2. It is possible that the bike you have has a V-Max rear end installed, the V-Max rear end is geared lower than the factory one for the Venture and may restrict the top end and also cause the engine to rev higher. I doubt that a V-Max rear end would limit you to 70 max. Chances are you just not used to the bike yet, give it some time.

Many times that type of problem stems from the fact that the first person to try and remove the screw used a standard Phillips cross-head screw driver, they do not fit the Japanese JIC type screws properly, the angles are different and you do not get a good enough bite especially if the the screw is tight. You could try getting a proper type screw driver at a local auto supply store or Sears, some times they will get into what is let sufficiently to let you get a good enough bite to get it out. Make sure you really bear down on the driver so it is less likely to slip again. Also try tapping on the screwdriver handle with a hammer while you are putting torque on the screw to loosen it, sometimes the shock of the hammer blows is enough to jar the screw loose. You can also try a hand impact driver those work, but on the handle bars you may find they are to "springy" to get the correct action required to make the impact driver work. Last resort would be to drill the head off and and wrench the stub out with vise grips or drill a hole in the screw and use an easy out.

Here is a link to a post by V7Goose that is in the Second Gen Tech library. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20293

Thanks Bob. Right now I am out of light bars, I ordered a bunch and they came in last week, but they were all damaged, the seller is replacing them, but they have to wait on the manufacturer to send more, should be in my hands within a week or 10 days. I have a list building up I may have to order more before I get this order just to fill the backlog.

Or try here http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4943&title=run-2fbrake-2fturn-light-bar-for-2nd-gen-venture&cat=35

The 10 mm bolts that are in the header pipes ar efor ataching an exhaust gas analyzer. Yes the pipes should be round, there is a pair of BUB slip ons for sale on the classified forum. They are in very good shape and have just been repacked.

Pretty much normal I recall having the same concern on my 98 TC and I just checked my 07 Venture they are mounted on a rubber gasket, probably helps to minimize vibration that would shorten the bulb life and also keeps water from seeping in.

Here is some info that Eck posted back in 2013. Here is a NGK universal cap http://www.bikebandit.com/ngk-plug-caps?m=144281

Someone either here or over on Delphi recently posted the part number from NGK for those boots with a picture, Now I wish I had copied and pasted the info some place.

There are no risers available for the Tour DeLuxe, the only thing to change the bar positon is installing new bars, many have used Flanders bars.

If you do not have or can not wait for an adapter from Carbon One, you can fashion some wood blocks, I made mine from red Oak they were 1.5 inches thick and about 2.5 or 3.0 inches square as I recall. The one for the left front needs to be notched out to fit around the kickstand and the switch, so be careful not to smash the switch. I always put a 2x6 under the kickstand to help it be a bit more level to start and it gives a bit more clearance to get the jack and the blocks under the left side. The trick is to lift it slowly the first time checking to see that you have found the balance point and the weight is squarely on the frame members, to far forward or back and the bike will not be level when you lift it. Also if you are doing something removing a wheel, strap the bike down to the lift and block under the other wheel so when the balance point changes because of the weight shift it does not have a chance to come off the lift.

Be careful using the STAR logo, If you did not get Yamaha's approval and they find out they have been know to clamp down hard on copyright infringements. But they good , I like it.

I do not recall seeing such a discussion here on Venture Rider, but over on the Delphi forums there is a fellow named Tanker Hank that has done it twice I think. Here are some links to the Delphi forums he frequents and a link to his profile, I am sure he would be more than happy to help. http://forums.delphiforums.com/royalstar http://forums.delphiforums.com/vrider Tanker's profile http://profiles.delphiforums.com/n/pfx/profile.aspx?webtag=dfpprofile000&userId=478167034

I think this is true and maybe some one with a bit more knowledge can chime in and agree or correct my bad. I am pretty sure these bike have what they call a waste spark, that is the coils fire twice during a complete 360 degree cycle, the first spark being for the combustion stroke to drive the piston down the second on the exhaust stroke to help burn any left over hydrocarbons before they exit the tail pipe. I would suspect that the second spark may intentionally be weaker that the primary spark, maybe what you are seeing is the secondary spark and you are not getting any primary spark. Again I may be totally wrong, I am working on memory here, so hopefully someone can chime in here and help.

Did they ever work properly after the conversion? Do the leds point in the correct direction? Leds are not omni-directional, they only emit light in one direction and normally on very narrow angles. If you put a typical led replace bulb that is designed to point rearward into a stock Yamaha lollipop housing where the bulbs point to the side then there is almost no light going out through the lens. I am not familiar with what you trike conversion uses for turn signals, so this may not be he case, but thought is was worth offering as a possibility. Otherwise I would also say check for a bad ground.

I have been following this thread on and off, I assume you did not receive a small metal tag with a series of numbers stamped in it when you purchased the bike. Typically that is the only record of the key code that Yamaha uses. Good luck.

Have tried a new ignition module? Is your ignition module stock or DYNA 3K? I know you say you have checked the primary and secondary voltages, but maybe could be something goofy going on in the ignition module. There maybe someone on he forum that has swapped their stock one out for a DYNA and would be willing to loan you a stock one just for grins to check it out.

Jonas, Very nice, looks good. Did you put something around the inside of the hole where the wires come thru so they do no chaf and cut the insulation? That "electro polysomething" is probably electropolishing it is a method of removing burrs and small hangy things that are often left on metal parts after working them such as cutting, drilling or tapping also improves the overall finish of the part, here is a link to wikipedia about it. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electropolishing

no picture that I can see.

What sort of lights are you wanting to install? There is a connector set under the seat that connects the main harness to the fender harness for all of the rear lighting, tail, brake and turns. I make a "T" harness with break out tag wires for each function that goes in between those connectors, you can use it to wire in auxiliary lights for tail, brakes or turns or use it to connect up a trailer harness, all with out having to cut into you bike's wiring harness. If you go to the classified section and look under member vendors you can see my add for that harness and a new light bar I sell that also offers the break out tag wire option. Those circuits only work when the key is on. Hope this helps.

Don, very sorry to hear of your issues, but very glad to hear that you are working them out and that you have called on the Lord to help and guide you. As many others have said, been there done that many times in the 25+ years I have been married to this great lady, if it were not for our faith in God we would have ended up very differently a long time ago, I applaud your open honest explaination and wish you both the very best.

That kit is for a Royal Star standard (1996 to 2001) model years, not for the Venture, you would do well to ask them that specific question as to fitment for a Royal Star Venture before spending any money.