M61A1MECH

Just to be clear on this, the level in the sight glass is with the bike vertical, not leaning on the side stand. When I had my Venture and my Royal Star, I used a mechanics mirror with an extendable shaft, so I could see the sight glass while straddling the bike to hold it vertical. Alternately a 1-1/2" to 2" thick piece of wood under the side stand will hold it almost vertical, just be careful not to bump the bike or turn the handle bars, as it could cause the bike to fall over to the right side .

Brakes are not linked on Royal Star Ventures. May be a collapsed line somewhere. Start at the outlet of the master cylinder break that connection and press on the pedal, if fluid freely flows, reconnect and work your way down the line until you find a point where the flow is diminished, if you get to the bleeder valve on the caliper and do not find an issue, maybe the calipers are stuck or dirty to the point they will not move freely.

The original Royal Stars(1996 to 2001) hade 28 mm carbs. Venture style Royal Stars including the Venture (1999 to 2013) and the Tour DeLuxe (2005 to 2010) had 32 mm carbs. From AI Key Dates for Yamaha Royal Star: 1996: The initial Yamaha Royal Star model was introduced. 1996–2001: This period included the initial Royal Star cruiser and the Royal Star Tour Classic, a version of the Venture with some features removed. 1999: Yamaha launched a new full-dress touring version called the Royal Star Venture. 2005: The Royal Star Tour Deluxe was introduced, which was a standard Royal Star Venture model with no touring features like a fairing, radio, and trunk.

It has been a long time since I had my Venture, so I have forgotten a lot about it, but if the Venture has any rubber lines in the rear brake system, it may be that those sections have weakened over time and stretch or expand when pressure is applied. If there are rubber sections, maybe it is time to replace them, preferably with braided steel covering. Just a thought. This would not necessarily have anything to do with air bubbles, but could affect the ability to lock up the rear wheel and slide it, which the Venture should do very easily, as the rear brakes are known to do that even of good dry pavement.

Brake fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it has a affinity to absorb moisture, water although considered to be an incompressible fluid, often has dissolved air in it, that dissolved air is compressible. Just as a note, Honda recommends the entire brake hydraulic brake systems on the Goldwings be flushed and replaced with new fluid, every two years, that system is a bit more complex that that on a Venture, but replacing your brake fluid at some regular interval be it time or miles, is a good thing to do. Again Speedbleeders make that job way easier to do, just pump the old fluid out into one of their catch bags using the lever or pedal depending on front or rear brakes, refill the master cylinder before it is empty and your done in no time.

Have you flushed out the brake fluid to ensure there is no old contaminated fluid in the system? Have you inspected or rebuilt the rear master cylinder? Try getting a speed bleeder for the rear bleeder port, those work great make bleeding a breeze. I would also consider going back to OEM rotor, you can check the specs on the rotor thickness requirements in the service manual found in the tech section here on the forum. Well I see Freebird beat me to it as I was typing.

Did the motor come from a Venture or did it come from a Royal Star. Yamaha built standard Royal Star cruiser models from 1996 to 2000 or 2001. The Ventures came out in 1999 and were built until 2013. They use the same basic motor, but the Venture models and later model Tour Deluxe made from 2005 to 2010 had more horse power, bigger carbs and special fake fins on the front cylinders, those special finned covers had two attach points for the front "dog bones" that support the motor. Also the air boxes for the original Royal Stars are a lot different that the ones on the Venture or Tout Deluxe. If you received a Royal Star cruiser motor instead of a Venture Touring motor there is likely to be small differences in some of the plumbing like for the AIS. Good news is if you did receive a Royal Star cruiser motor, most of the parts from your original Venture motor should bolt right on, bad news is , it still lack in horsepower. If you post photos of the motor it could help us help you.

I agree with N3FOL, here is a link to the electrical schematic for the Royal Star Ventures, if your regulator is bad and you continue to ride you may well cook your new battery, my regulator went bad on my 2007, and it nearly made the battery blow up. It overcharged it and it swelled up to the point I almost could not remove it from bike.

I am pretty sure Gary sold Tweety Bird and Sylvester, not sure if he ever finished Sylvester or not, he was riding a Goldwing the last I talked with him, you may find him over on the GL Forum, but he never did post to often.

I asked a Yamaha rep about those pieces one day at Bike week in Daytona Beach, he told me the left one was designed to deflect gas away from the hot exhaust in the event the tank was over filled. He got a little upset with me when I pointed out to him that their display bike had the left and right sides swapped. He scurried right over to bike to confirm and then found a tech to fix it. Anyway I see no reason why you cannot remove it if it bothering you. I remember burning my legs on those round guard rails they had on the original Royal Stars heads.

Here is a link to one article about one of the converted Royal Stars, but not a Venture model. https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/custom-yamaha-royal-star-with-heart-v-max-from-archives/

If it quits on you again like that take the gas cap off and see if you can hear air rushing into the tank, that will be a dead give away that the vent is plugged. The vent hole for the tank is visible in the neck of the fuel filler hole, if you take the bezel plate off that holds the speedo you should see a tube exiting the filler neck, that connects to a rubber hose that exits below the motor, You can take some canned air and try blowing air through the hose from the top to the bottom after you take it loose from the metal tube, sometime critters like mud dauber wasps will build nests in the end of that rubber hose. The 98 year model of the Tour Deluxe and the Tour Classic have the ignition switch mounted up front on the frame right behind the radiator they get cooked with all the heat from the radiator are are prone to failure, I had to have the ignition switch on my 98 Tour Classic replaced under warranty, supposedly Yamaha knew about the problem and when the shop replaced them they used a heavier duty switch than the OEM. Mine would some time fail just as you described, before the replacement, never did it again after the replacement and that bike went well over 100,000 miles. Hope this helps

Not sure how much this will help, but here is a screen grab from the tech library SIDE STAND SWITCH.pdf

These two links to the tech forum may be of help.

Sorry but the Stebel harness was not one of my products. It should be a very simple harness. Connect the OEM plug to a relay to energize the coil and run a fused line from the battery to one side the Normally Open (NO) contact of the relay and connect the input for the Stebel to the other side of the NO contact. Push the horn button and the relay closes making the horn blow. The tricky bit is making sure the relay is rated for the current needed for the Stebel horn, size the wire and fuse accordingly for the current needed by the horn. I could build one, but not having a Venture around to determine what connector is needed or estimate the length or wire needed, I would need some help in the form of pictures of the horn connector, and estimate of length of wire needed to get from the battery to the new horn.

Greg, Most of the folks on this thread show as having an expired membership, so they cannot reply and most likely are not even seeing them. Your posts are showing just fine, I am always interested in fixes to hear about potential fixes to known problems, although I am no longer riding, but I keep reviewing posts in case I can help somehow from my experiences.

Yes your message has ben posted, please post the details of your fix.

Fish Rueben, grilled or blackened.

From DR Google I found this, How do I tell what size Mikuni carb I have? Measure the inside diameter of the carb on the engine side. Maybe this helps. Found this here on page 82, of the full manual, not the supplements. https://www.venturerider.org/manuals/1996-2001 Royal Star LIT-11616-VZ-01.pdf

You may be restricted from private messaging because you are a trial member, I will try to PM you with my email address. PM Sent

The bike does have a temp sensor, that turns the fan on and turns the light on. There is a fairly easy test that can be done with each one, see the tech section for a copy of the repair manual that tells how to test it. I have attached a PDF of the pages from the manual that should help. Troubleshooting temp sensor.pdf

That may fit behind the battery, to hold the cable that was supplied with the bike to use as a helmet lock. I forget where the cable was locked to when securing the helmet(s), I am not sure I ever used mine.

No

so here is the picture, I have no idea, except maybe it is a cover for the lock mechanism in the saddle bags on a tour deluxe. I do not recall ever seeing anything like that on my 98 Tour Classic with soft bags. Do not recall if there were covers over the saddle bag locks on my Venture.

May be because you are listed as a trial member, but normally you can just up load from your computer. PM sent.