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M61A1MECH

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Everything posted by M61A1MECH

  1. T6 is what I used in my 2013 Goldwing, that was a manual shift not the CVT like the new 2018 and up Goldwings. In my 2013 it helped eliminate ghost shifting and made shifting smoother.
  2. Thanks for the kind words, but I must make one correction, I do not make the ignition bypass system, another member here named Dion #djh3 makes those.
  3. Behind the license plate you will find where the taillight and turn signals come together, you can tap into the needed circuits in there. The connections are bullet style single connectors. I do sell some special multi tap bullet adapters but if you are replacing the taillight all together you may not need those unless you want to retain the OEM turns. As far as the light bar under the trunk I sell those with a plug and play harness that taps in under the seat, with enough information about your light bar I am sure I can make a plug and play set up for that also. You check out this thread if you like. If you do not have this already here is the color codes for the rear lighting Tail = Blue Right turn = Green Left Turn = Brown Brake = Yellow Ground = Black Happy to help if I can.
  4. Jay, Freebird is correct, there are i think 4 wire loops where you feed black tywraps through and around what ever is close and cinch them up. I always had extra tywraps in the trunk, just in case. Good Luck Steve K
  5. I do not need the guard either, but I did have one on my 2007 and can vouch that it is a great product,. One word of caution to who ever gets it or anyone that has one, if the front of your bike is lowered be mindful that if you grab a big handful of front brake and the nose dives, the trailing edge of the front fender can contact the Wagner grill guard and you can loose the ability to steer. The only reason I know that is the fellow I bought my guard from had that happen, his bike was lowered and the front fender caught the guard, once, that is why he sold it to me so it could not happen to him again.
  6. So when I clicked on the link you provided, my Norton virus protection blocked it as a dangerous website, enough said.
  7. Yes my standard set up uses the 4 lights left or right of center as turn signals, they will blink with the turn signals, but only if the brakes are not applied. Any time the brakes are applied the 8 lights on either side of the center light illuminate at full brightness. The extreme left and right as well as the center are on anytime the tail light is on. Below shows the left turn signal on and tail light on, unfortunately I do not have a video.
  8. In deed I do make trailer set ups and other small connection items as needed. Thanks for reminding me, I forgot to post that bit.
  9. I just wanted to raise some awareness for the newer members and remind some of the older members that I still build and sell the items in the links below. Even though sales have dropped off over the years I still maintain stock of most parts and I can normally build and deliver within two to three days. If you have a special need for adding additional lighting, I most likely would be able to help out either with parts or directions. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62637-5-wire-plug-n-play-trailer-harness/ https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62638-4-wire-plug-n-play-trailer-harness/ https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62635-aux-lighting-harness-for-tour-deluxe/ https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62636-runturnbrake-light-bar-for-2nd-gen-ventures/ https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62634-aux-lighting-harness-for-2nd-gen-venture/ I also build trailer adapters for the Eluder and Transcontinental and adapter harnesses for adapting the lighting on Harley type tour-packs that are added to the Eluder.
  10. I recall having the same issue, just had to massage the cables, may have needed to remove them from one or two of the clips and reposition around the other cables and wires, took a bit of fiddling around. Needs to be worked out, last thing you need is a stuck or sticky throttle going into or coming out of turn. Good luck.
  11. Here are some photos of what I did, not fancy by any means, but functional. I went to a local auto parts store and bought some rubber inserts for coil springs, cut and shaped them as needed, in retrospect I could have glued them to the OEM bumpers or installed screw from the bottom so they were not visible, but once installed the tabs I made were virtually invisible down in that hole. The tabs were just cut from some aluminum stock I had laying around.
  12. The one issue I had when I installed risers on my 2007 Venture was that the rubber supports between the bars and the top of the triple tree no longer supported the handle bars. Without the supports the bars seemed to flex a bit more. Some folks managed to turn them around but I fashioned a spacer of sorts, but I cannot find my photos of the 07, it has been gone for a long time. The risers did cure the shoulder ache issue I was having with the stock risers. If you have a 2005 to 2010 Tour DeLuxe I am pretty sure there are no risers for those models.
  13. Have you tried Pin Wall Salvage? Here is a link that may help. https://pinwallcycle.com/index.php?cPath=156_157_182_2724
  14. That is truly good news, praying for continued improvements.
  15. I cannot help with what the plastic thing-a-bob is, but I can shed some light on the tubes. Those are drain/vent tubes, one of them goes to the airbox, it is part of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PVC) system. As the engine creates vacuum to pull air into the carbs, there is a line from the airbox to the crankcase, oil vapors and in some circumstances liquid oil is pulled from the crank case into the air box, the vapors are supposed to go into the carbs and out the exhaust. If there is to much vapor it can condense back to a liquid and settle in the bottom of the airbox where it collects at the end of the tube which then gravity drains onto the road way or your drive way. It is very common to have this happen and is part of the design. The situation can be made worse if you over fill the crankcase with oil or at sustained high speed riding as the oil tends to slosh around more than normal and is more prone to get sucked up into the PVC tube and then the liquid oil ends up in the air box. Next time you have the tank off, open the air box and inspect for oil residue, wipe it dry that should solve the dripping for a good little bit. The other two tubes may be carb vent hose in the case a float sticks the excess fuel will drain out those hoses, if that is not correct , someone will be along shortly to set me right.
  16. Have you found the read only tech section yet? Here is a link to the wiring diagrams, this may help.
  17. I do not see anything specific to front wheel removal, but Freebird was kind enough to make the maintenance manual available in PDF format. Try this link, https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62785-2018-star-venture-tc-service-manual-and-infotainment-manual/?do=getNewComment Good luck with your project. Steve K
  18. When my 07 started to act up like you are describing I found that the piston in the master cylinder was sticking. I carefully drained as much fluid as I could from the master cylinder and then removed the piston and cleaned it up with fresh brake fluid and lubed the pivot pins with a light oil or Teflon. Also cleaned out the sludge in the bottom of the master cylinder, amazing how much crud you get in a "closed" system. Anyway after that the catch I was experiencing went away. As recall there is no cable in the system because it is all hydraulic, I could be wrong, my Venture has been gone for a long time and my memory is not what it used to be. Other more knowledgeable folks will be along soon I am sure.
  19. Check to see if the air boxes have been modified of if there are K&N filters installed. On my 2007 when I modified the airboxes, that is cut the holes larger, I had a stumble on hard acceleration, I shimmed the needles, see the tech section for doing this, when I put K&N filters on the stumble came back and I had to re-shim the needles, that mostly got rid of it. The only way I got rid of it was to purchase a used pair of unmodified air boxes from Ebay. May not be your problem, but easy to check for. Also check that the diaphragms in the carbs are not damaged, some times they get pin holes in them
  20. I am still building them and have replied to your PM messages. For any one interested, I do build these for folks in need, one issue that has come up in the past few months is that the 5 way isolator I have always used is no longer available, I have a couple of work arounds for that, but like to talk it over with the buyer to make sure they are on board with the work around. 4 Way isolator / converters have not been an issue to date, but the prices are steadily increasing. I have been told the 5 way isolator went out of production sometime in 2021 or 2022 with no estimate for a return to production. I am happy to help where ever I can if you are in need.
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