M61A1MECH

No the rear shock is not air over hydraulic on the original Royal Stars, the air over hydraulic shocks started with the 1999 Venture and was only used on the Ventures from 1999 to 2013 and the Tour DeLuxe 2005 to 2010. For the front shocks the max pressure is 7 psi and you needed to use a zero loss pump, normally they look like an over sized syringe. I am not sure who makes or sells them now a days. You used to be able to find them at Harley dealers.

Probably take more than a toggle switch, some of the wires carry a lot of current and the heat produced would likely destroy a toggle switch, in cases like that best to use a toggle switch to actuate a relay that is rated for the current. On my 98 Royal Star Tour Classic the ignition switch was located on the left front just behind the radiator so it got plenty hot. My ignition switch went bad while the bike was under warranty so the local shop replaced it for free. I am not sure if new switch modules are still available or not for that year bike, if they are I would replace it, if not look up Dion Hinskey here on the forum, he makes ignition bypasses for the 1999 to 2013 Ventures, he may be able to help with one for your year and model. Here is link to his profile, https://www.venturerider.org/forum/profile/6542-djh3/

Check the fuel pump and the fuel filter. The fuel pump should come on when the ignition is first turned on, there should be several noticeable clicks as the pump pressurizes the system. When the bike dies on the road, open the gas cap and listen for any sound like air rushing into the tank, that would indicated the vent tube is clogged. Sometimes when bikes sit for a long time, critters can make nests in the vent tube and plug it up causing there to be a vacuum in the tank that will prevent the fuel from flowing out. Also check the electrical module on the back of the ignition switch, they have been known to over heat and go bad.

The fairing is made of ABS plastic, you may want to try some ABS glue.

Agreed but the speed bleeders work on what ever system you install them, you can even use them on hydraulic clutches, they work very well and all with out the help of another person.

When I had my Goldwing, the brake bleeding process was very involved due it having linked brakes, I installed Speed Bleeders, those coupled with a catch pouch, I could do the whole process in a matter of minutes and never had an issue with air or spongey brakes. http://www.speedbleeder.com/bikechart.htm

Most likely is a stuck needle valve or debris in between the needle and the seat that is not allowing the float to close the valve fully. Some times a dose of Seafoam and a good spirited run will clear that up if it is minor. If a dose of Seafoam or carb cleaner does not fix it, you probably in for a carb overhaul. I am pretty sure the are posts in the tech library to help with this issue.

Forward the email to PayPal using this address, spoof@paypal.com .

T6 is what I used in my 2013 Goldwing, that was a manual shift not the CVT like the new 2018 and up Goldwings. In my 2013 it helped eliminate ghost shifting and made shifting smoother.

Thanks for the kind words, but I must make one correction, I do not make the ignition bypass system, another member here named Dion #djh3 makes those.

Behind the license plate you will find where the taillight and turn signals come together, you can tap into the needed circuits in there. The connections are bullet style single connectors. I do sell some special multi tap bullet adapters but if you are replacing the taillight all together you may not need those unless you want to retain the OEM turns. As far as the light bar under the trunk I sell those with a plug and play harness that taps in under the seat, with enough information about your light bar I am sure I can make a plug and play set up for that also. You check out this thread if you like. If you do not have this already here is the color codes for the rear lighting Tail = Blue Right turn = Green Left Turn = Brown Brake = Yellow Ground = Black Happy to help if I can.

Jay, Freebird is correct, there are i think 4 wire loops where you feed black tywraps through and around what ever is close and cinch them up. I always had extra tywraps in the trunk, just in case. Good Luck Steve K

I do not need the guard either, but I did have one on my 2007 and can vouch that it is a great product,. One word of caution to who ever gets it or anyone that has one, if the front of your bike is lowered be mindful that if you grab a big handful of front brake and the nose dives, the trailing edge of the front fender can contact the Wagner grill guard and you can loose the ability to steer. The only reason I know that is the fellow I bought my guard from had that happen, his bike was lowered and the front fender caught the guard, once, that is why he sold it to me so it could not happen to him again.

So when I clicked on the link you provided, my Norton virus protection blocked it as a dangerous website, enough said.

That is great news, praying for continued speedy recovery.

I recall having the same issue, just had to massage the cables, may have needed to remove them from one or two of the clips and reposition around the other cables and wires, took a bit of fiddling around. Needs to be worked out, last thing you need is a stuck or sticky throttle going into or coming out of turn. Good luck.

Here are some photos of what I did, not fancy by any means, but functional. I went to a local auto parts store and bought some rubber inserts for coil springs, cut and shaped them as needed, in retrospect I could have glued them to the OEM bumpers or installed screw from the bottom so they were not visible, but once installed the tabs I made were virtually invisible down in that hole. The tabs were just cut from some aluminum stock I had laying around.

The one issue I had when I installed risers on my 2007 Venture was that the rubber supports between the bars and the top of the triple tree no longer supported the handle bars. Without the supports the bars seemed to flex a bit more. Some folks managed to turn them around but I fashioned a spacer of sorts, but I cannot find my photos of the 07, it has been gone for a long time. The risers did cure the shoulder ache issue I was having with the stock risers. If you have a 2005 to 2010 Tour DeLuxe I am pretty sure there are no risers for those models.

Have you tried Pin Wall Salvage? Here is a link that may help. https://pinwallcycle.com/index.php?cPath=156_157_182_2724

That is truly good news, praying for continued improvements.

I cannot help with what the plastic thing-a-bob is, but I can shed some light on the tubes. Those are drain/vent tubes, one of them goes to the airbox, it is part of the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PVC) system. As the engine creates vacuum to pull air into the carbs, there is a line from the airbox to the crankcase, oil vapors and in some circumstances liquid oil is pulled from the crank case into the air box, the vapors are supposed to go into the carbs and out the exhaust. If there is to much vapor it can condense back to a liquid and settle in the bottom of the airbox where it collects at the end of the tube which then gravity drains onto the road way or your drive way. It is very common to have this happen and is part of the design. The situation can be made worse if you over fill the crankcase with oil or at sustained high speed riding as the oil tends to slosh around more than normal and is more prone to get sucked up into the PVC tube and then the liquid oil ends up in the air box. Next time you have the tank off, open the air box and inspect for oil residue, wipe it dry that should solve the dripping for a good little bit. The other two tubes may be carb vent hose in the case a float sticks the excess fuel will drain out those hoses, if that is not correct , someone will be along shortly to set me right.

Nice job, looks great.

Have you found the read only tech section yet? Here is a link to the wiring diagrams, this may help.

I do not see anything specific to front wheel removal, but Freebird was kind enough to make the maintenance manual available in PDF format. Try this link, https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forums/topic/62785-2018-star-venture-tc-service-manual-and-infotainment-manual/?do=getNewComment Good luck with your project. Steve K