M61A1MECH

I actually have two options on the wiring for you, The one Ilinked to above was for the 1999 to 2013 Venture and 1996 to 2001 Royal Star , here is the one for the Tour Deluxe, 2005 to 2010, it is $16.00 delivered in the lower 48. The other option is to use some bullet connector adapters I make that will plug in to the brake and tail light wires at the triangle housing behind the license plate. A pair ( one for brake lights and one for tail lights) would be $10.00 delivered in the lower 48. With either solution you would need to run some wires from the bike to you new lights. I did a similar set up on my 2007 Venture, but I mounted the dual intensity LEDs between the saddle bag rails and the fender. Here is a link to where I bought mine, they make two different mounting bezels, one for flat and one for side, this link shows the side mount. https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Tecniq-EON-Red-Clear-LED-SMALL-Stop-Tail-Light-Motorcycle-ATV-Black-Ver-Case/293139609955?hash=item44407b7963:g:kYIAAOxyUrZSpjrA The Royal Star Tour Deluxe does not use CanBus. it is straight 12 volts DC direct wired.

OK easy enough to do, but are you asking how to do it or what type lights to buy? I make a breakout harness that installs under the seat so you can easily tap into the rear lighting without having to cut into the bike's wiring, see my add below. Maybe this helps.

Right side tin near the passenger floor board.

Good to see us back on line, everyone was having withdrawal symptoms.

If the carbs bolt up to the motor, maybe they bought and older set of carbs rather than rebuild the ones on the bike. Mike Eycamp may know he is heavy into carb rebuilding and swapping.

There was a change to the Royal Star line in 1999 when they introduced the Venture. The carbs on the Venture are different than the carbs on the regular Royal Stars. The 1996 to 2000 NON Venture Royal Stars all had 28mm carbs. The 1999 to 2013 Ventures had 32mm carbs. Just be sure you are looking at the correct parts fiche.

Go to someplace like Home Depot and get something like this, they may even have smaller diameter ducts for RVs and things. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-4-in-x-8-ft-Flexible-Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-Duct-BTD48HD/203626496

Had one run out in front of the group I was riding with on Saturday on the North side of Deland, crossed the road, ran along side of the road and then crossed back in front of the lead rider, just enough to get your attention.

I noticed a huge slow down in packages going north of the border as soon as the Covid mess started, it was almost like they let it set to decomtaminate or something. Try shipping something to Australia, now that was painfully slow.

Yeah toyed with that idea, but it was about 1/2 the cost of painting, what I did was 1/10th the cost of painting.

I never was really happy with pulling my black Bushtec Roadstar behind my red Goldwing, but on my retired budget there was no way I could justify spending the money to have it painted, so I removed the chrome edge guard and replaced it with red edge guard. I think it it looks OK.

Read this post from VGoose, it is quite good. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?37353-Some-Tips-on-Changing-the-2nd-Gen-Coolant

I had very good luck with both of these methods. 1) Using a new allen in a socket set up , do not use a ball end allen. Use a hand impact tool and smack it hard. 2) Using a new allen in a socket up, do not use a ball end allen. Using a good sturdy breaker bar, apply force in loosening direction and smack the joint on the breaker bar so the shock wave goes straight down the axis of the allen.

One small correction to VideoArizona’s post, I make a lot of different harnesses and will customize to suit the user, but I am not the member making the ignition bypass harness. That would be Dion DJH3 I think is his screen name. I am happy to help once you know what you want to do, I am also OK with giving out my sources for electrical hardware for those who want to do it themselves.

I shamelessly stole this from the Goldwing forum I frequent, I have not tried tie tip yet, but thought I would pass it along in case it can help anyone in need. "If everyone else in the world knows this, then I apologize, but as a small way of repaying all the help I've gotten here, I offer this tip for stripped plastic threads: The 2018 has a rear side panel held fast by a screw into a plastic block. If you're ham-handed, it is easy to strip. Which I did. An easy, if inelegant, way to repair this is with steel wool. Tear off a chunk of SOS or Brillo pad, twirl one end into a long point, and push as much of it as you can into the stripped hole, leaving a bulb of it outside the hole. Then press the screw firmly into the steel wool and screw it in until it firms up. Be gentle. This is not a heli-coil-quality or EZ-Lok-quality repair, but it will hold firmishly."

If you want to wire to the back side of that power port inside the fairing, I can set you up with neat little plug and play 2 pin break out adapter.

Oh poop ,now you have to shock the pool to sanitize it

I have seen videos of them climbing over various types of fences, just wait until he wants to leave and see how he gets out.

Here is link to setting the floats on the Venture 32mm carbs, the process for the 28mm carbs on the original Royal Stars may be similar. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?24246-Set-the-Float-Levels-on-QuickSilver Check the needles and seats for wear or damage. Most leaking from the overflow tubes is caused by debris or varnish on those needles and seats.

My 98 Tour Classic had a noise like that that turned out to be the water pump, I had an issue where the oil was getting in the coolant, turned out it was bad seal on the driven shaft on the water pump. Once the water pump was rebuilt the noise went away. Take your stethoscope and check on the lower right side at the water pump cover and see if you can hear it there.

Just try twisting the throttle when you are in 3rd gear a few times you may be impressed by how well she does, 4th and 5th are both overdrive gears.

From 1996 to 2001 Yamaha produced the "Original" line of Royal Stars, there were several model designations such as Tour DeLuxe, Tour Classic, Boulevard, Silverado and standard Royal Star, each had unique packages such as chrome parts, hard bags , soft bags windshields and what not. They all had the same power plant 1200 cc 4 cylinder at 78 horsepower. Good solid bikes many have gone well over 100.000 miles.

i am still making all of my products, my trailer harnesses are isolation harnesses. The isolation relay adds a layer of protection by isolating the bike's lighting system from the trailer's lighting system. The trailer lights are powered from the battery through the isolation relay that senses the bike's rear lighting and activates the tail, brake or turn signals on the trailer as the bike calls for them. If your trailer develops a short circuit only the trailer lights are affected, the bike's lights still function. The sub harness that EC sells for $49.95 is only one part of their system, it does not connect to your trailer, it requires that you also purchase an isolator from them and if your trailer needs a 4 pole connector you need to purchase a converter also and then you provide the trailer connector that matches your trailer. My system includes the sub harness and either a 5 wire to 5 wire isolation relay package or a 5 to 4 converter that has an isolation relay built in. No messing about with piecing parts together, just one clean plug and play system that is tailored to your specific needs. If you need a special connector for a Bushtec or a 6 pin square, I will build the harness with that connector at a modest up charge. EC doers not include the trailer connector and shipping is an extra charge with them, my system includes shipping and a standard 4 or 5 pin flat rubber molded connector. A 5 wire system from EC will run you $129.90 plus shipping and the cost of a trailer connector. My complete 5 wire system with shipping and a flat 5 pole rubber trailer connector will cost you $131.00. A 4 wire system from EC will cost you $162.85, plus shipping and a trailer connector, while my 4 wire system including shipping and a standard 4 pole flat connector will cost you $96.00. Shipping is to the lower 48 states, if going to Canada add $7.00 US to cover the added freight costs. Tell me what you need and I will get you a quote, as quick as I can. Hope that answers your questions.

I cannot speak to the RVTC being affected by side drafts, but i can tell you that my 2013 Goldwing is the worst bike I have ever had for getting blown around by side drafts. I was pulling my Bushtec and was blown about 2 feet sideways by a very strong gust, no problem with the trailer it was fine, no whipping or excessive side wise movement. Bustec Roadstars are not very heavy and most of the time I forget it is back there. I have pulled it with a 98 Royal Star and a 2007 Venture, never a problem.

Go here in the tech library, http://www.venturerider.org/manuals/1996-2001%20Royal%20Star%20LIT-11616-VZ-01.pdf, then scroll down to the last manual and find pge 8-7, it gives the fault codes.