M61A1MECH

So back to your condition, an engineer where I worked a few years back suddenly started having dizzy spells and vertigo, turns out he had an issue with crystals in his inner ear coming dislodged and migrating to places they were not supposed be, doctors put him on meds and her was OK after a bit. Here something I found on Google. I am certainly no doctor, but maybe something to discuss with yours if the subject has not already been brought up. 'BPPV is a mechanical problem in the inner ear. It occurs when some of the calcium carbonate crystals (otoconia) that are normally embedded in gel in the utricle become dislodged and migrate into one or more of the 3 fluid-filled semicircular canals, where they are not supposed to be." https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjB5rCMq4fkAhVmT98KHYCWB8cQFjAEegQIDBAN&url=https%3A%2F%2Fvestibular.org%2Funderstanding-vestibular-disorders%2Ftypes-vestibular-disorders%2Fbenign-paroxysmal-positional-vertigo&usg=AOvVaw3EPNnAk25YlITRlxw8Wp5M

I had to walk away, just not clean enough, all the aluminum was oxidized from being in the Florida humidity, no maintenance records, so no telling when any fluids were changed or how regular, this owner has only had it since February. The tires had plenty of tread but , based on the low mileage and it being 23 years old I am sure the are old and need to be changed. The seat has black tape covering the front seam. All in all just pointed to not being taken care of the way I expected (hoped). He said he did not want to go very far below $2000.00. It ran good and sounded good, but I did not like the way it handled, maybe I am just spoiled by my Goldwing, any way, I knew there would be some things that needed attention, but unless I could get it for $800.00 to $1000.00 it is just not worth sinking several hundred dollars in a bike I do not need and really do not have space for. I could make it fit in the garage, but it would difficult, so decided to walk away. I probably should just stop looking at them all together and be happy riding what I have. Thanks to all that responded.

Rest In Peace in the Lord my friend, you will be greatly missed by all who had the pleasure and honor to know you.

Yes I am aware of the performance of the bike, I owned a 98 Tour Classic for 9 years prior to getting my Venture, I am more concerned about adjusting back to that style after having my Goldwing for a number of years. i am planning on keeping the Goldwing just not sure how much I will enjoy this bike if I get it. I hope a lot, because I really enjoyed my 98.

I found a 1996 Royal Star for sale on Craig's list, it is about 1.5 hours due west of me, going to take a look at it tomorrow after work. It has been on CL for 6 or 8 weeks and the price has been declining, today he posted "Make an Offer", he told me has $2000.00 in it and would like to that bake out of it. He recently purchased it from a friend's wife, she only put 31,000 miles on it, so I am hoping it really looks as good in person as it does in the photos. I am thinking of offering him $1500.00 to start with. What do you guys think?

You did not mention how many miles on the bike, for what it is worth, the clutches on my 98 Tour Classic and my 2007 Venture both started slipping around 40,000 miles, on the 98 for lack of any other good advice I put in all new friction plates and a new OEM spring, clutch was fine after that for 56,000 more miles when I sold it, on the 07 I just upgraded the spring with one of SkyDoc's heavier springs, it was fine for the next 30,000 miles when I sold it. I will also say stay away from Yamaha lube oils, I am convinced that using it was what caused my 98 to start slipping, once I changed it back to Honda GN4, it got better but still had some slippage, unit the clutch plates and spring were changed.

Generally I would say yes those are fairly common issues. First question is do you have the key code that came with the original keys? That is a small tag with 4 or 5 numbers stamped on it, with those numbers a locksmith can punch a new key that will be as good as the one from the factory. If all you have is a worn key and get it copied all you have is a copy of a worn key. It may be better than the original worn key but not much and not for long. Generally it is never a good idea to put liquid lubes in a key hole, they attract dirt and collect particles of metal as the key and tumblers wear. I would recommend cleaning the key slot with some good plastic safe contact or brake cleaner to drive out the oil and dry out the inside, then use a dry lube specifically designed for locks, I use graphite. The electrical switch on the Ventures and many other Royal Stars are weak and minimally robust enough for the current that Yamaha puts through them, they are known to fail, just in the manner you are describing. There is a fellow here on the site , Dion, djh3 that makes a bypass electrical jumper that removes most of the load from the ignition switch, you may want to look into one of those.

Here is place that some of the Goldwingers are using, https://ceramicpro.com/ , bad part is, you have to take the vehicle to them or they have to come to you for the application, it is apparently not something the average Joe can do in his garage. I have used the TECH SHINE product from AEROLON , https://aerolon.com/, it works well, easy to apply, seems to last pretty well. One thing I do like about it is how it treats black plastic. On the Goldwing there are a lot of black semi-texturized surfaces that were always a pain to keep looking decent, after I applied the TECH SHINE they looked like new and have stayed that way ever since. I forget how long since I applied it, but it has been several months I know that. I also used their Show Polish. As soon as it cools down here in Florida, I am probably due for another application.

Good deal, I love it when a plan comes together.

That is great, interesting bike.Let me know if I can help on the wiring, I am sure can build a fender harness with a little info and pictures of mating connector(s). The Suzuki 250 was backwards from that as I recall, it had two header pipes into one muffler, but it only had one cylinder.

Those instruction sound backwards to me, if I am understanding what I read. The tail light power should go through the resistor to dim it slightly. The brake power should go directly to the LEDs on the wing so they light up at full power. If the brake power goes through the resistor then you will never see it, because the tail light is over powering it.

Freebird, Yes that is in essence what I suggested he do several days back. Maybe I should have posted these photos when I first got them., I do not like how they wired it, but again, no matter the state of the wiring, if the only thing wrong is left and right turns are swapped , easy peazy to swap the two at the trailer input connector. I am not with the guy so maybe there is more to the story that I know.

Yeah, That is exactly what I suggested, he just has not had time to get back to working on it for the last couple of days. I am working on a schematic based on what I can figure out from the photos I have from him.

The tester is wired as 4 way with back up, his bike and trailer are wired for 5 way (separate turns and brakes). My bet is the PO just matched the bike out put to the trailer's needs and all he needs to do is swap the turns left and right. I would make the change on the trailer side so if he pulls another trailer the bike matches the accepted standard for trail wiring. The wires on the lights are are color coded black, red and white for both the red and amber lights, I only have photos of the inside of the trailer so I am not sure if the outboard light is red or amber, I am assuming the out board light module is the amber one, because the outboard light module on each side is not using the black wire, only the red and white. But there are green wires splice to white wires and blue wires spliced to green wires, green wires spliced to yellow wires, from the pictures it is just not possible to tell what is what. I suspect that one of the green wires is a jumper from the left or right brake to the other side, but just a feeling right now. I have given him the basic wiring diagram for a 6 wire set up that is on E-trailer, but edited to look like a 5 wire, he is going to work with that and let me know what he finds out.

Maybe, but if it just a couple of swapped wires, then that should be very easy to fix. I have not heard from him in a day or so, sent him an email earlier today to see if he has made any progress.

Glad I could help. Love the old original Royals, I had a 98 Royal Star Tour Classic, put a full set of BUB pipes on her sounded great, never did get very good gas mileage, but loved every minute of the 96,000 miles I rode her.

Prayers up from Florida for Bob and Becky.

Most likely issue is your photos are to large, try resizing them, somewhere on the page where you up load them it tells you the max size.

Prayers up from Florida.

Yeah that was one of the first places I found, I also contacted the sales/service at timeout but neither he nor the website had info on how the trailer is wired, just how the connectors are wired. I did reach out to a fellow named Fred up in New York that sells them, he also has a trailer place up the road in Port Orange and bought a few of my harnesses a couple of years back. He was more more helpful than timeout and offered to talk to Gary (the owner having trouble). Gary sent me some photos and the wiring is goofy from what I can see. Right now it seems the issue is left and right turns are swapped, so that should be an easy fix, poor guy has little to know hands on experience with electricity, so he is struggling. To make things worse he bought a couple of plug in testers that are to made for testing a 5 wire system that is wired as a 4 wire trailer with back up lights, those do not work on a regular 5 way, because of the way the 5 to 4 converters are wired internally to handle the hand off of the brake circuit when a turn is selected and the brakes are applied. Then he got a volt/ohm meter that he could not keep powered on, it kept shutting off. He was on his way to replace the meter last I heard from him, so I am not sure where he is in the trouble shooting, I have not heard from him for several hours.

I have seen stories on the mid engine Vette also recently, I seem to recall them promising a mid engine Vette back maybe in the 70's or 80's , those never came about, so although I would like to see one, I am not holding my breath, and I am also sure I will not be able to afford one either :mo money:. I am a bit of a purest at heart and agree with an old friend of mine that told me long ago that real sports cars did not have automatic transmissions and did not have roll up windows, not sure anyone is making those kinds any more.

I am trying to help out a customer that bought one of my harnesses, the harness is fine, but he is having issues sorting out the wiring on the trailer, I was hoping that maybe someone had a wiring diagram or some first hand knowledge of Cyclemates, specific model he has is a Wind Raider. I have not seen the trailer, as he is in Minneapolis and I am in Florida. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I would first suspect the voltage regulator, using a volt/ohm meter check for voltage at the battery with the bike idling and then increase the rpms , should be somewhere around 13 to 14 volts, if it goes higher then the regulator is not regulating. Had the regulator go on my 2007 Venture, it cooked the battery to the point it nearly exploded. Dion is correct the stators do go bad also, but the regulators are more often the issue.

I mounted mine in the trunk also, did not have the factory mount, so I pulled the cargo net off the front end of the trunk, fashioned an aluminum strap that cradled it and picked up a couple of factory fastener locations put some padding below and around it to protect from bumps. Using a couple of small black Ty-Raps I was able to attach the cargo net back around the CD player. Worked great , only the occasional skip on bad bumps. Still have pics someplace if anyone is interested I will dig them up.

Good looking bike, congrats on the find.