M61A1MECH

Bubs were always the pipes everyone wanted, for the Venture they went two routes, a full system including header pipes and mufflers, they also offered just slip on mufflers. Every time I heard a Royal Star with set Bubs installed it sounded like a small block Chevy V8. They have a glass mat inside wrapped around the baffles, that glass mat tended to burn out over time and need to be replaced, when Bub was in business you could order a replacement kit from them and with a few hours work they were like brand new. The V-4 on the Royal Stars will never sound like a V-twin, I preferred the sound of the V-4 over that of the V-twins myself. I had a full set on my 98 Tour Classic and got a lot complements on how the bike sounded. Post some good detailed pictures of the mufflers and the header pipes and we should be able to tell you if you have the full package or just slip on mufflers.

Perfect, I love it when a plan come together.

Thanks

I am trying to reach Larry AKA Carbon One. There is a fellow rider in need of a trailer hitch, I do not have direct contact info for Larry, I have tried email through the forum, PM through the forum and also instant messenger through FB, but no reply yet. If anyone has a direct number to him, I would appreciate it, if you could give him a ring and let him know. Thanks

Here is a link to the tech section talking about the recommended service on the connectors in the fairing. Maybe it could help. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?62016-Audio-System-Tech-Bulletin-M2008-003

That is a very common trait of these motorcycles, all variations of the 4 cylinder Royal Stars from day one 1996 to end of production 2013 had the issue to varying degrees. The issue is the use of straight cut gears. they are much stronger than helical cut gears, but as they say "No good deed goes unpunished", the result is often a noisy gear train. Some have reported getting less noise or at least moving the noise to an RPM range that is less used, by changing the clutch basket, I forget which letter was claimed to be the best, but a quick search on here should net you many results with lots of opinions and anecdotal references. There is also a post here some place, where a member tapped into the port where I think the oil pressure sensor is with a line than went back into the crank case where the offending gears meshed, he reported the whine was significantly less with the oil flowing on them. Some have reported that changing oil type and /or viscosity range also helped the noise, by reducing it or changing the RPM range that created the worst noise. My 1998 Royal Star Tour Classic sounded like it had a blower on it it whined something awful at certain RPMs, then nothing at other RPMs. My Venture did not start whining until around 50,000 miles. I just noticed that you are in Orlando, I ride with a group of STAR riders out of Orlando, if you want to meet up one month for our ride, PM and I will get you the details.

This guy has some parts that folks have been looking for, take a look http://forums.delphiforums.com/royalstar/messages/10596/1 I have no information other than what you see in the post on Delphi, I have no connection to the fellow, please do not email or PM me about the parts.

If I need to send a copy of a document to someone and I am unsure if they have a compatible program to open it, I just print the document to PDF and send them a PDF copy. As long as all they need is to read or view the document it works well, I send all my schematic drawings that way, very few folks have AutoCad or Draftsight so they are not able to open .dwg files.

So I did get a response, and it was not what I had hoped for, there may be a performance issue if you graft 28mm carbs from the Royal Star on to the Venture motor that normally uses 32 mm carbs, what I was thinking about was guys that wanted to put the 32mm carbs on the Royal Star motors to increase the performance. The suggestion was to get a set of 32mm carbs from a Venture and maybe use individual pod filters in place of the air box.

As I recall over on the Delphi forums for Royal Stars and Royal Star Ventures a few folks have swapped out the original Royal motors for Venture motors, I am pretty certain what they did was to make an adapter plate that went between the Venture motor and the Royal Star carbs. That would require the help of a decent machine shop, but I doubt it would be very expensive, and surely a lot less trouble and effort than swapping heads. I will pop over to the Delphi forums and see if I can find any help on this.

Still here, still riding my Goldwing, tweeking it as I go with little mods here and there. Tried retirement, not sure I liked it , went back to work part time 20 hours a week, with a 4 day weekend every other week. Headed to Helen, GA next weekend.

I do not know why he left, but I did bump into him the other day on one of the Goldwing forums, he still has Tweety and also has a Goldwing, I forget what year , but it is an 1800. You can google Royal Star BatMan or Neutron Star both have VMax motors grafted into a Royal Star, will give you visual on what is involved with getting the exhaust headers out because of the frame and the heads.

I know the heads are different, the exhausts are ported out differently and to put VMAX heads on a Royal Star requires major frame modifications. Camshaft should be interchangeable but you would also need the VMAX springs so you do not float a valve, I am not sure about the rest of it. Some where on here there was a post about a fellow in England that did stuff a VMAX motor in s Royal Star and a former member was in the middle of doing just that before he opted out from the forum. Search for posts by Dingy you may find some of his old posts with photos of Sylvester and Tweety.

OK, Update, I have the connectors in hand, I have one breakout on the way to the first customer and a second harness made and ready to ship. I will post the offering in the Member Vendors section soon, but for now here are some photos. The price as pictured will be $15.00 delivered to the lower 48, add $8.00 if shipping to Canada.

Yes , sort of, the mechanical seal #8 is allowing oil into the coolant, so you should change both. The shaft on item 2 maybe damaged also it needs to be inspected. And replace the gasket #16 . You may find you cannot order the individual items and instead have to buy a kit that has items, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8.

Head gasket issues normally show up in either a compression test or a leak down test, also any shop worth it's salt will have an exhaust gas analyzer, if there is blown head gasket I would expect oil or coolant to be getting in the combustion chamber and thus going out the exhaust, the analyzer will pick that up. I doubt very seriously if there is a bad head gasket, all most unheard of on these motors. When my 98 Royal Star first exhibited the issue, the service manager and talked it over and neither of us had any good ideas except to look for a blown head gasket, that proved to be fruitless. So we looked at the two systems oil and coolant for common areas and came up with the water pump driven shaft and seal and the heat exchanger. There was no hint of oil coming out of the drip tube in space between the water pump and oil pump, but we decided to check that and sure enough they found a bad seal. The service manager with 20 years working on Yamahas had never seen that issue before.

You may have two different issues here. First oil in the coolant overflow is bad, needs to be corrected as I noted above. Second, there are three drain hoses as I recall under the bike on the left side near the side stand, one of them is a drain hose from the air box, it is quite normal to get some oil fumes up into the air box, that is what the crankcase breather does, suck fumes off the crank case and takes them up to the air box so the fumes can go through the carbs and out the exhaust pipes. If you over fill the crank case or run at high revs for a prolonged period of time the oil can splash around and liquid oil will be sucked up through the crank case ventilation hose and be deposited in the air box. The drain hose for the air box is on the left side so it is naturally on the low side of the air box when the bike is parked on the side stand. If there is an excess of oil accumulated in the air box over time it will run down the drain hose and drip on the ground. Open the air box and clean out any liquid oil n there and dry the drain hose to remove any accumulated liquid, then monitor for further drips from that drain hose. Also make sure the oil is not above the line on the window when the bike is standing straight up.

Yes, see my post #19 , I speak from experience it happened to me on my 98 Royal Star Tour Classic. You should start with the oil pump / water pump assembly. The seals on the common shaft can and do fail allowing oil to get into the cooling system. It is a pain to get all of the oil out of the cooling system, some have flushed their cooling systems with a mixture of water and dawn dish soap followed by a couple of flushes of distilled water to remove the soap residue and minerals that the water may have left behind. The twinky is the long oval sapped part that sits between the cylinders has a few hoses on it, it is actually a heat exchanger. This issue has been reported by several here and also on the Delphi Royal Star forums. Good luck , report back how you make out.

If it just surface corrosion take some aluminum foil and wad it up in your hand, dip in water and rub it on the affected area, works pretty well, they follow with traditional metal polish or good wax. I just tried this on some Kuryakyn parts, it worked , but the Kuryakyn chrome is so pitiful it started to peel off in big flakes, the size of your thumb nail in some spots, so I am replacing the parts.

Well it is a sellers market in real estate, so not really surprised with the quick sale. Where about in Florida are you going to be for the winter? I am just about 25 miles south of Daytona Beach. Good luck on the next chapter of your journey.

My valve covers were showing a lot of wear mostly from some wind wings that were installed by the previous owner, so I picked up some cheap knock off covers from Hong Kong and a spare set of logo covers from eBay, I like the results. I plan to take the OEM covers and have them powder coated in gloss black and I have improved the mounting clamps for the wind wings to keep them from touching the valve covers.

Check out these links to the tech section on this forum, should tell you what you need to go to fix the clicking noise. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?13263-Rear-Hub-Lubrication https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1705-Rear-End-Noise-Yamaha-TSB

That reminds me of some good advice I got from the Goldwing forum about taking switch clusters apart, try to fit a large clear zip-lock type bag over the switch and work inside the bag when taking them apart, if springs or parts go flying they will be contained in the bag and not shoot out all over the work area.

Your diagnosis seems to be right on, The red wire is the hot feed to the switch, fused at 15 amps. The green wire is the low beam feed wire from the switch. The Yellow wire is for the high beam and the high beam indicator. The black wire is the ground for the circuits. My Venture is long gone and I never had a reason to tear into the dimmer switch, so I do not have any advice on getting it apart or testing of that particular switch, but I have attached the switch testing instruction page from the repair manual, maybe that will help a bit as well as the lighting system troubleshooting guide from the repair manual. Hope this helps a bit, but it does sound like your switch is bad, could be just dirty or corroded, maybe some good contact cleaner sprayed into the connector will help along with multiple actuations of the switch while the contact cleaner is still wet indise the switch will help clean the contacts. LIGHTING SYSTEM TROUBLESHOOTING.pdfTESTING SWITCHES.pdf

The original Royal Stars do not ha e linked brakes. They suffer from the same to much power to rear brakes that the Venture does. You do not have to bleed the brakes when changing pads, just make sure there is enough room in the master cylinder to take the fluid that will be displaced when you push the pistons back to allow the new pads to fit in.