M61A1MECH

So this is what Google says; "The three tuning forks of the Yamaha Logo represent the cooperative relationship that links the three pillars of our business -- technology, production, and sales. They also evoke the robust vitality that has forged our reputation for sound and music the world over, a territory signified by the enclosing circle." From the Yamaha web site; https://www.yamaha.com/en/about/history/logo/ "Are there any differences between the Yamaha Logo and that of Yamaha Motor? The biggest difference is that logo of Yamaha Corporation is colored in violet, its corporate color, while that Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd, its sister company, uses red. Yamaha Corporation uses a Yamaha Logomark with the tips of the tuning forks contained within a circle, and features "YAMAHA" printed in an asymmetric font, with an "M" with a middle column shorter than the outer legs, while that of Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd has the tips of the tuning forks in Yamaha Logo extended outside a circle, and uses symmetrical font, with an "M" of all the legs same size." Yamaha Logos.docx

OK, now I can start planning for my second visit to MD.

Not wanting to hijack the OP's thread, but have you tried using that red tacky spray on the back of the pads and the front anti vibration shims? That normally gets rid of most brake related noise, always worked for me on my 98 Royal Star and my 07 Venture.

Have you seen this thread? https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?119593-YES-WHINE-is-GONE-I-Finally-did-IT-PUT-OIL-line-to-THE-DRIVE-gear-on-Clutch-housing&highlight=whine This may be an option also.

Prayers up from Florida for you Bob.

Hey buddy, you can not get rid of me that easy, I know where you live. I understand changes in life and needing to adapt. It is with great honor that I call you my friend, but you are more like family, sorry to see you go, but I know we will stay in touch.

Send me a PM with your name and mailing address , I will send you the product, you can pay against the invoice after you receive and review the product. I can ship with in one day of mailing information.

If you want to tap in to that circuit without cutting any wires, I sell a breakout jumper harness that plugs in between the bike harness and the back of the aux outlet. They go for $10.00 including shipping to the lower 48 states.

Yes it would, but there is no water pump "assembly" for the Royal Stars. It is not like on a car where you unbolt the water pump assembly and bolt in a new assembly. On the Royal Stars you remove the housing that contains the water pump and remove all the seals, bearings, gears and shafts, replace what ever needs replacing. The seals are always replaced because they are typically destroyed during the removal process, but they are tricky to install with out damaging them and as I recall they are direction specific, they must be installed in the correct orientation or they will not work properly, there is an oil seal on one side and a water seal on the other. If you are getting oil, water or a milky mixture coming out of the drain tube in the bottom of the water pump housing then one or both of the seals or the shaft that goes through them is bad. There are other places where the oil and coolant can be exchanged, but the water pump is the most common failure that allows the two to mix.

If you are getting oil thru the water pump over flow tube the most likely candidate is the seal on the driven shaft that runs the water pump. I know you said you replaced it already, but the seals are easily damaged during the install process, so you may have the same problem again. I would start there.

These look like fun.

The company that was doing this mod and exchange was Blue Ridge Mountain Sport Max, it was owned and operated by John Furbur. I am not sure if John is still in the business of modifying and exchanging Royal Star final drives or not his website appears to be gone, but , but he does have a Facebook presence and I understand you can email him directly at john@rmsportmax, he may still be doing the mods and swaps. Hope this helps, Good luck.

I like Prarie Dogs, They taste like chicken

I found this on Craigslist, looks to be very nice and well kept. https://orlando.craigslist.org/mcy/d/yamaha-royal-star/6697569033.html

Prayers up from Florida.

Yes, a wise old electrician I worked with many years ago gave me some very good advice, "They all look good from the other side of the street." Sage advice to be sure.

Thanks all, I actually did put a clear coat on it, so we will just see how it goes, hope to get her out this weekend for a bit of riding and the Daytona Biketoberfest activities.

My lower cowl was starting to look pretty sad, so I decided to give it a rattle can paint job and changed the color to black to match the lower portion of the bike. What do you think. I have a spare in the factory OEM color, so I can swap back if I decode I do not like the black or the paint does not hold up to road abuse. Not the best pictures but the change should be obvious. Thanks

Becareful using Slime or Ride-On in tires equiped with Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems (TPMS) not all TPMS are compatible with punture sealing additives.

Yeah sort of what I expect also, but I figured I got some left over what can it hurt.

Yes SIME sells products for motorcycles and trailers, in fact that is what I settled on, it is a bit less expensive than Ride-On and more readily, picked some up at WallyWorld, did both tires on the trailer with the dosage recommended by Slime and had enough left over to do my wheel Barrow tire that never holds air, will be interested to see how well it works. Both Slime and Ride-On claim their product improves the balancing of the tires. I have not had a chance to try it out yet, so I can not comment on that.

If the left side and the rear bolt are still tight, loosen those before you try to install the right side one, you need the "slop" in the set up to get all of them aligned and started before tightening any of the three. If you still cannot get it to start, you may need to remove the tank to get clear access to the hole so you can try threading the bolt in to be sure the threads in the frame are still OK.

Good looking bike, congrats. Slow speed maneuvers remember to trail brake with the foot pedal, clutch control and throttle control, watch some ride like a pro videos and practice. The bike can do it, she does not like it very much.

I can believe that, some times it is tricky looking a picture and trying to match up the details to be sure you get the right one, I have been lucky so far with my suppliers, hope they have the sub harness in stock and can ship soon so I can get a look at it. I hope Yamaha did not pull trick like BMW and Harley where they contracted with Amphenol to get proprietary connectors that you can only get if you are a licensed shop, but does not sound like it if EC was able to procure them.

When I looked at Buckfan's bike it became very obvious that there was no one master joint for the fender harness like on the Royal Stars, Ventures and other Star bikes from Yamaha and with out having a wiring schematic at the time we were just shooting in the dark disconnecting plugs to see what did not work. A few days later I found the schematics here on the forum and confirmed that yes three different locations needed to be tapped into. Much will depend on the availability of the connectors as to whether I can build a complete system or will I need to order their sub harness and add the isolation system. I have a sub harness on order so I can get firsthand knowledge of the connectors. From what I could see on the schematic and looking at the photos on ECs site, there is one connector for each saddle bag for the turn signals and one under the seat for tail and brake. I will keep everyone posted on my progress.