M61A1MECH

I went to an estate sale today and found the trailer in the pictures, folks running the sale said owner is asking $1000.00 but is willing to negotiate and the closer he gets to his move date the more flexible he is getting on prices. I do not know any more about the trailer that you see in the photos, if you are interested PM me and I will give the phone number of the folks managing the estate sale. The trailer is located in New Smyrna Beach , FL

This probably does not need to be said, but just in case it does I going to say it anyway. Make sure you are starting with good clean surfaces any time you apply an adhesive. For previously glued surfaces this can be hard to attain, but if you are not down to the parent material, all you are doing is applying new adhesive to the old adhesive layer, also depending on the surface, often it is beneficial to roughen up the surface to give the adhesive more surface area to grip, just be sure to clean the area after abrading it to remove any loose particles. I know gluing up 101, but sometimes you need to be reminded of the basics, at least I know I do from time to time, but in my defense I am old and have forgot more than I remember.

I am not sure about screws in the back, my Venture with the Wagner grill is long gone, but I do recall some sort of protrusions in the back that held the screen on or something. I do know one thing, if your bike is lowered in the front and you hit the front brakes hard enough to make the front end dip, the rear tip of the front fender will contact the front of the Wagner grill. That is what happened to the guy I bought my Wagner off of, and why he took it off and sold it. There was a small chip in the paint on the Wagner as proof of it happening. So yes there are occasions when the rear fender tip can come in contact with the Wagner, but this is the first time I have heard of one puncturing a radiator.

Personally I will not use those horrible blue snap shut taps. They can and do sometimes sever the wire you are trying to tap into. If I may promote one of my products, I would suggest you look at this item http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=4&title=aux-lighting-harness-for-2nd-gen-venture&cat=18. It plugs in under the seat and you could splice the resistors to the two leads for the left and right turn signals and then take the other end of the resistors either to a frame ground or splice into the ground wire in my aux harness. You can also then mount the resistors to a suitable frame member to help the heat sink work. If you still want to put the resistors in the fairing, I suggest you use POSI-TAPS, they are much less intrusive to the wire harness and will not sever the wires they are tapped into. Here is a link, http://www.cycleterminal.com/posi-lock-connectors.html I have other solutions for tapping into the wires in side the fairing that will also work and not damage any wires, if you PM me I can send you some additional information.

I have heard that some folks with similar issues, painted their lowers, had pretty good results as I recall.

I will be riding in on a Goldwing, so I am sure a Beemer would acceptable also.

In the parts list it is simply called cover cap 2, see item 10 on this breakdown https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/50043eccf8700209bc78df32/crankcase-cover-1 Normally it is called the timing hole cover.

I just pay the money to enter and walk the exhibit.

Puc, Here is an event I try to attend every year, not many for sale , but a ton to look at. https://ridingintohistory.org/

Up at 4:30 to make it to work for 6:45 to open up, but that stops in 5 weeks, when I retire and start collecting SS and Boeing retirement money. First thing after that is head up to Ohio for Freebird’s mai t day and a stop at Wright Patterson AFB for the museum.

Dion, Are we still doing this one?

It is a fiddly project, I found that having a replacement on hand when I did mine it helped me to visualize what I had to do to get it out. I think putting it in is easier than taking it out. Just go easy and keep trying different angles, it will come out.

Welcome to the forum, afrer you find your hitch, if you need wiring set up, check my ad on the member vendor section, I sure I have what you need.

Dion, you can drag and drop in S&T I do it all the time.

Dion, Streets and Trips (some versions, mine is 2011) do support GPX, I just converted one last week using the built in "export to GPX" command, copied that file into my Garmin, where it stores it in "my data" in the GPS, loaded from my data to favorites and off I went, worked perfectly. No screwing around with base camp or any thing else, just S&T and my Garmin.

Well I am still using Microsoft Streets and Trips, it is not supported any more and maybe not even available to purchase, but it works and to me it is very easy to use. I have the 2011 version and it will export GPX files hat my Garmin accepts. Not sure that helps you much.

Pencil me in.

Yes there is, it is part of the starting circuit cut off relay assembly, there are two relays in that assembly. That assembly should be item 45 in the parts list in the link below. Called Relay Assy (5Ea-00) FOR SIDE STAND PN 5EA-81950-00-00 https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/50045f98f8700209bc794e98/electrical-1 I have some PDF files I can send you, if you email me from my profile, I will send them to you. Put Venture fuel pump in the message title so I know the email is not junk.

Find Dion on here, forum name, DJH3, should have a listing in the classified section for ignition bypass. Here is alink http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=697&title=rsv-ignition-by-pass-relay&cat=8 Not sure if the older classic Royals are the same as the Ventures. Yes the early Royal Stars had the same issues, my 98 Tour Classic had the ignition switch right behind the radiator, boy would it get hot, failed on me while under warranty. The later edition bikes were supposed to have a heavier duty switch, after it was replaced I never had any issues with it.

Next time it happens open the gas cap and listen for the sound of air rushing in to the tank. Could be the tank vent is plugged and a vacuum is developing in the tank, starving the carbs for fuel. If that is the case most likely cause is plugged vent hose, need to blow compressed air from tank side down.

Highly debated topic over on the various Goldwing boards, I talked with a new 2018 owner the other day, he said the stock suspension on the 2018 was the best he has seen on any of the Goldwings he has owned. I have not had the opportunity to ride a new Goldwing, and I may not, as one of the folks over on the 1800Riders forum said if you cannot afford to buy a new one, do not ride one, because if you do you will want to buy one.

I was going to suggest that as an option, a friend had it done at the industrial laundry he manages, but I was not sure how much it would cost, figure it would be a bunch, but never thought it would be that much. I agree that is way to much money. Good luck with the repairs.

Depending on how much to small the heat shrink is, you may be able to stretch it enough to fit then shrink it back in place. Sometimes heatshrink start to recove it’s size (shrink) on its own due to age . If you do decide to get new heat shrink in a more appropriate size, get the adhesive lined type, it is much better at water proofing.

Weeping plugs in the cylinders is pretty common for all variants of the Royal family of bikes. Best not to use any sort of sealant. The two options most folks use are; 1) Replace them with new, best done in concert with changing the coolant, as quite a lot of fluid comes out when you pull the plugs and the system is full. 2) Tape a dime or a penny to the inside the fake fins where the boss is that normally presses on the plug, the plugs tend to shrink over time and just need a little help finding their seat, the extra thickness of a penny or dime is just enough to seat them fully. I used the coin shim trick on both my 98 Tour Classic and my 07 Venture for many years with no leaks. Good luck.

Short answer is yes. but if you have LEDs in the turn signals and have installed an electronic flasher unit to control the flash rate, the self canceling feature may not work.