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Raven1294

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  • Posts

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Personal Information

  • Name
    Robert Moetteli

location

  • Location
    Garland, TX, United States

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  • City
    Garland

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  • State/Province
    TX

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    2005 Royal Star Tour Deluxe
  1. Strange thing is even after a long ride in stop and go traffic 97F + it isn't hot after arriving home, ignition switch is cool it slowly gets hot after sitting awhile which leads me to believe it must be heat soak, because if it was a load on the switch it should be hot after getting home, there is no other real explanation.
  2. Funny thing is when the switch gets hot nothing around the switch is hot not even the radiator cover after sitting for an hour, so I think the switch may have gotten damaged some how due to all the bad wiring someone had done on the bike.
  3. That is exactly what I was thinking but should the swith get as hot as the engine itself as just holding my finger over the key hole gets so hot I can only keep my finger on it maybe for 10 seconds before it is too hot, seems to happen after a 30 min ride when the temp is up close to 100F other then that is never gets hot I ride it to work every morning about 4 miles then home for lunch and back to work and it never gets hot, so far it has happened twice since I got all the electrical issue fixed both times after sitting in the garage for 45 min, so maybe somehow it is heat soak. The cover was on
  4. ok no issues today or so I thought rode the bike a bunch today in hot weather and the switch stayed cool all day got home this evening turned the bike off checked the switch and it was cool to the touch, about 45 min later I go out into the garage and check it and the switch is really hot! So rolled it out of the garage and within a few min it started to cool down, while I had it sitting in the garage it stayed very hot to the touch for 2 hours then once rolled out it, it cooled quickly even though it was still very warm outside.
  5. So last night I sprayed contact cleaner into the key hole again and then used compressed air to blow it out, this morning 80 to 85F rode for about an hour and switch was cool to the touch, this afternoon it will be close to 100F and will ride for another hour and seen if it stays cool or gets hot again, this morning and this afternoon will be in stop and go traffic.
  6. No the switch itself was not taken apart and cleaned but all the wiring after everything was done tested good, maybe someone out there after riding their bike for awhile can see if the switch gets pretty warm after riding it, you can put your finger over the key hole and should feel if its hot, I took the chrome plastic cover off and it was pretty hot holding your fingers over the cylinder of the switch, fact is it may have always been hot since I bought it, but after using the contact cleaner and spraying into the key hole an using compressed air to spray it out I rode it with the chrome cover off and it never got hot after a 20 mile ride at 95F maybe the switch gets hot with the chrome cover on it.
  7. ok so all the wires with the taps under the seat and in the headlight bucket have been soldered and heat shrunk and direct run for the passing lamps with fuse to battery, headlamp switch has been repaired and cleaned bypass harness installed I got from djh3 all corodeded connectors cleaned or replaced everything seems to be working fine but after riding about 30 miles the ignition switch was hot again and stayed hot still after 1.5 hours, today here in Texas while I was riding was about 99F, any thoughts? replace Ignition switch? don't know what else to do....Thanks Should the ignition switch get hot at all or should it be cool to the touch no matter how hot the temp may be outside?
  8. So djh3, that small harness I bought from you if installed it would work and help if the passing lights were installed and there would be no need to add another relay just for them correct?....Thanks
  9. No problem there, I have never used them and never will...... everything will be soldered and heat shrunk, one of the 4 owners before me did that handy work.
  10. RSTDdog thanks for the advice using the contact spray it worked! now the switch doesn't get hot anymore, was able to drive it to the dealer and my mechanic said he would install that bypass harness I had purchased from djh3 once he try's to repair the headlight switch and ignition swich he is also going to take all those taps off solder and heat shrink them and make sure no issues anywhere else.....thanks for everyones thouights on this issue. Robert
  11. Do you all think it would be safe to drive it to the dealership? Its about 15 miles from my house so about a 30 min drive, I know it will really be expensive but just don't have time to mess with it and I have the money to get it done and a great certified Yamaha mechanic to do it just want to make sure I'm not going to cause more damage if I drive it there....Thanks
  12. Well it seems the damage has been done, it seems I have to disconnect the battery as the ignition switch is getting very very hot even with the engine off now wil the contact cleaner drain out if I spray it into the ignition switch, does it have a way to flush out the wd-40 an exit so to speak?
  13. ok so I know the headlight switch is bad as the lights were working when switching high/low back and fourth then they stopped working, noticed key was hot when I pulled it out of the ignition, so pulled chrome cover off the ignition and let engine run ignition got too hot to hold your hand on it after 20 min of engine running , pulled headlight switch apart and found one of soldered 3 wires that go to the actual headlight switch button had broke off tried resoldering low beam light came on but after switching to low/high beams nothing....so this is sounding very expensive so far but I think my pain is self inflicted as a little over a month ago the key was sticking when trying to turn the ignition so like a moron I sprayed WD-40 into the key hole of the ignition guess I'm am getting what I deserve for being so stupid!!.
  14. Well it seems the issue is back, I get no running lights and no headlamps but if I play with the switch back and fourth low/high it will come on but if I turn off the engine and start it agian no lights so I take the headlight switch is bad, I noticed before it went out that the high beam blue light stayed on all the time on the instrument panel even when on low beams.....any thoughts? Also tried to take those phillips head screws out that hold the switch together but no go they are in there!.................... now I get nothing no headlights and no running lights even when messing with the switch everything else works.
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