M61A1MECH

Yeah thought about that, but not likely to get a patent, most new cars and trucks have lighted cup holders using similar technology, I doubt my gluing a flat LED in a cup holder s sufficiently unique to warrant being granted a patent.

I posted it there before I posted it here. Lot of folks over there like it, I sent pictures and suggestion for product improvement to Kuryaken, but no response from them yet.

It has a reverse that is driven off the starter motor, so I guess it would classify as a helper, it does work if you park stupid where there is no possibility of pushing it back.

This is where we stopped for dinner on the way back from the last Meet to Eat. http://www.jbboondocks.com/index.html They open at 11, pretty good place been there a couple of times. Here is a small local chain that I had never heard of before tonight, http://www.kekes.com/ they have several locations, I was thinking about the one in Clermont. They are open at 7. Just a couple of possibilities. Barry, you have a new cooling vest that needs to be ops checked, June in the middle of the day should be perfect for you.

No special license required, but it does seem funny that the button you push to start it is labeled as REVERSE.

Got tired of not being able to find the cup holder hole in the Kuryaken cubby while riding to work in the dark, so I put a light in in it, think it should work just fine. I used one flat prewired blue LED from Oznium, https://www.oznium.com/prewired-surface-mount-led, bad part was had to dig in almost as deep as changing the air filter to gain access to route the wires to the left side under the glove box. Here are some photos , first with the holder empty, second with water bottle third with stainless steel coffee cup.

I contacted Bosh and explained the issue to them about the previous concave surface and the now convex surface on the base plate. After being admonished that the filter in question 3300 was not designed for motorcycle applications they said the change from concave to convex was a DESIGN change not a manufacturing anomaly. So one would expect that the other manufactures have also made a similar design change. We will need to be diligent in inspecting the filters before purchasing them to be sure they will fit and seal, may have to re do the list of compatible filters for the Venture and the Goldwing, which by the way use the same filter.

Some may be aware of this event others may not, but here is a link to this year's "Riding into History". This is a good event if you are interested in vintage bikes. https://ridingintohistory.org/the-event/

Found the same on a Wix filter that was supposed fit the Goldwing, after seeing so many similar posts on the Purolator filters, I opened the Wix box in the store to check it out and it had the "inverted" dish. I ended up with a Bosh 3300, it has a concave surface. I have no basis for this theory, but any times you will find that items like oil filters are actually made by only one or two factories, they use different filter media and pressure relief valves and what ever else may go into the filter based on how it is branded on the out side, Fram, Purolator, K&N Wix or what ever. So I think some one in the factory screwed up and got the mount plates on some filters loaded into the machine backwards or upside down. I do not think it is a design change, but a manufacturing screw up. But that is just an opinion and subject to be very wrong. Moral of the story is, open the box and check the filter before you buy it. Hard to do if you buy on line like I have done in the past.

Yes indeed , good times, good food good friends good talk. I must correct something I said, I stated the new V-Max was a 1900 cc motor, that is wrong, it is a 1700 cc motor, but still plenty big enough and powerful enough to move the Gen 3 Venture down the road if Yamaha has made that that decision. Lets hope that is the news we hear on the 5th of June.

Dion, I am going south on I-95 to 528 and 520 around south side of Orlando then picking up I-4 west to I-75 south. It takes to long if I try to use interior roads instead if Interstate.

Yes, just a drain hole.

No earlier,it is about a 3 hour ride for me so 9AM is fine as I will be starting from Edgewater early that morning.

That could work, not sure what the dielectric rating of the heat shrink is, if it is not rated for high voltage it may allow leakage voltage to "jump" through the areas where there is a gap in the original boot. If you try it I would suggest getting the shrink tube that is adhesively lined that way it will be fixed to the boot and give a better moisture seal. Clean the outside of the boot with rubbing alcohol and allow it to dry completely before applying the shrink. I would suggest having the boot installed on a spare spark plug when you shrink it that way it will not shrink down to far and collapse the boot. Depending on how stiff the finished part is and how much build up you get, maybe a second layer of shrink will be helpful. Also coating the spare spark plug you use as a form for with a light coat of some sort of dielectric grease before installing, that way grease will act as a release agent in case any of the adhesive squeezes through the gap in the boot. If you try it let us know, with pictures how it all works out.

Barry As long as nothing major changes between now and next weekend we, yes I said we, will be there. Deciding now if we want to leave early on Saturday and maybe do some sight seeing and spend the night and come back on Sunday. Or brave the evening traffic in Orlando then Tampa area and spend the night Friday and come back Saturday. Either way we are planning to be there.

My bad, I thought the page was updating as I input the various info to define the search so you could scroll through the list, but, you are correct when you hit the search button it responds as no matches found. I was pretty certain that someone here on the forum had found those caps on the NGK web page in the past.

I did, it had several pages listed, I did not go through them all because I do not remember what the Venture uses exactly. I will try the link again.

Look here maybe you can save some dough, the ones from Yamaha are $30.00 https://www.ngk.com/Motorcycle-Plug-Caps-c543.aspx

So I just got a copy of the procedure for the Venture flasher from Tank over on the Delphi forums. Freebird, maybe this is something to add to the Second Gen Read only tech section. turn signal mod for LEDs.pdf

Here is a video for doing it, I am pretty sure the folks over on the Delphi forum have the process documented, Check with TANK over there.

Yes the flasher mod is also an excellent way to go. One suitably sized load resistor for each side, attached to my aux harness will take care of front and rear, the front and rear circuits are connected as one circuit. Here is a link that may help. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/

Positaps are fine connections, much better than those Scotch-lok guillotine type taps, but here is another option that will work under the seat and is even less invasion to the wires. Take one of my aux harness set ups and take the left and right turn signal leads to the heat sink, makes it all very plug and play and no chance of damaging the wire harness. Plus it gives you ready access to the other signal wires if you want to add more lights later. One of the guys on the Stratoline forums did this and said it worked great. Here is a link to my ad for a Venture style harness, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=4&title=aux-lighting-harness-for-2nd-gen-venture&cat=18

Spent my high school years and many others in Brooksville, once dated one of the girls that performed as a mermaid and my first wife worked there during the summers. Shoot even Elvis shot a movie not far from there out on the grass flats. The area of western Hernando county where Brooksville is has some of the best riding roads in central Florida.

I am in.

If you do decide to take it all apart, I read a hint over on one of the Goldwing forums about that sort of thing. It was suggested to take it apart in side of a plastic bag so if there are any spring loaded parts that come flying out, they will be contained in the bag, could save you having to hunt all over the garage for a small spring or who knows what. I have not had a chance to try this idea so I do not have any practical hints or suggestions on how to do it, but the idea sounds like a good way to keep all the parts in one place, I will try it one day I am sure.