M61A1MECH

Many thanks to all that have posted their ideas and stories. I set the trap last night, but no joy, did not catch any thing, but also no fresh tracks or fresh digs in the yard, so either the critter took the day off or the night before was someone else's Raccoon checking out my yard. I will keep the trap baited for a few days and see what happens. If the critter returns to living under shed, I think I will try Puc's idea for smoking it out. I though the ammonia I used early on would do that but not so. Keep the ideas coming and I will keep you posted on my progress.

Had the same thought myself, the critter has been around for a while and I have only seen tracks of an adult, no babies, but if I catch it again I will look a bit closer, if it is a she with evidence of babies, I will have to let her go here at the house so she can tend to the babies. But In reality I think I would have seen evidence of cubs if here were any around, but thought did cross my mind when it showed back up this morning. I did find out that I do not need a permit to trap on my property, but I do need written consent from property owner where I relocate the animal, that could be difficult.

I think it may be similar here in Florida, I have just not bothered to check, I suppose I could trap it and call someone with the proper credentials to relocate it maybe. I called a local trapper and they wanted almost $300.00 to trap and relocate , I suspect the fine would be less. Going to try trapping him again tonight.

Yeah, that would surely work, but not exactly my style, prefer to humanely relocate, and far enough away so hopefully I do not have to do it once a week.

So we had a Raccoon living under the shed for a good little while, really was not a problem until about 6 weeks ago he decided to dig up the wife's flower beds each night searching for grubs and worms. I tried all the typical remedies to deter him from the flower bed, black pepper, red chili pepper, ground red pepper, off the shelf deterrents from Home Depot. Tried to make him move his den elsewhere by pouring ammonia down into his den, vinegar in his den, salting the entrance to his den with the red pepper mixture and his own scat. Nothing worked until last Saturday night when I set a trap baited with dry cat food, honey and peanut butter. Sunday morning , viola, Raccoon in the trap, easy peasy. Relocated him 3 miles to the west in an area that looked perfect for Raccoons and lots of better homes between there and my house for him to take up residence, but no, this morning a week later, I have freshly dug holes and Raccoon tracks on the sidewalk again. I am making an assumption it is the same one, but who knows. I do not want to hurt the varmint just want him to live and forage some where else, if it is the same one, how far away do I need to take him to keep him from finding his way back? Anybody have experience with Raccoons?

In the for what it is worth department, I just pulled this from the Metzler website. I was told this was the case many years ago by someone in Akron that was very close to the tire industry, but never bothered to follow it up until now. http://www.metzeler.com/site/us/about-us/history.html

Congrats for finding the issue, please re-read my post the 5th in this series.

So reading your last post and going back to my first post in this thread see post #5 , Are you sure you are not expecting the motor to do something it just will not do, these bikes are not geared to where you can get on the throttle very hard in 4th or 5th gear at slow speeds.

So here is a thread over on the Delphi forum that sounds much like your issue. I know you have been through the carbs, but this fellow has made an interesting observation, although he has not proven his theory out yet. May be a good idea to keep an eye on his progress. http://forums.delphiforums.com/vrider/messages/16516/1

For What It Is Worth, here a link to the Ventures site look at the tech section for tires and wheels the last post has a lot of good tire info, I can not post a link directly to that topic. http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/?action=article&cat_id=002014&id=374 I was reading on the GL forum that folks on GLs have been complaining about Metzlers delaminating much like Venture riders have in the past, come to find out Metzler makes a special 888 for the Goldwing where they beefed up the carcass with extra layers to take the weight and stop the delaminating, to bad they did not do the same for the Venture, and no, the Goldwing tires are not the same size as the Venture tires.

Mike, I had one releasable tywrap left over and everything still works.

Yes the Goldwing manual is odd to say the least, you have to refer from section to section to take various layers off. I watched the videos before I tackled it, the first time and then again before this last time, but I still took pictures of the screws and where they came from just in case. I do not hurry so yeah takes several hours from start to finish. All in all in is pretty rewarding to complete that task and you learn a lot about the bike in the process.

Think about us Goldwing owners, and be glad that Yamaha had enough sense not to design a bike around the air filter.

Just grabbed this from the Goldwing forum. http://m.waaytv.com/redstone_alabama/military-exchanges-will-be-open-to-honorably-discharged-veterans/article_c25e2178-f6cf-11e6-a5e9-572f468968b2.html May be some good deals, maybe not, but it is something for those of us that served honorably.

Don, I ran the E3s on my 07 and liked them a lot, good traction and good wear, I do not recall the exact number for the rear , but I do recall it being different than how you expect the size to be called out and I trusted the shop to order and install the correct one. Dunlop has come out with an E4, but over on the Goldwing forum there have been reports of them being slippery on wet roads. As always one rider will complain while another will praise the same tire in the same conditions, but I never had a complaint about the E3s I ran.

Those came from ACE HIGH leather, a vendor here on the forum. You will see here ad in the top banner from time to time.

I am not sure, the wiring diagram does not say where the fuse is located, but if memory serves me it is in one of the fuse boxes. It is a very low amperage circuit, maybe 5 amps.

You looking for a two pin white connector, both halves of the connector are there, the one side is dummied off with rubber plugs. the wires are Black = Ground the power is Brown with Red stripe. Normally you will find it on the left side down low.

So taking my previous post a small step forward, you may want to see if there is any one on the site that has a spare ignition module left over from a DYN2K install that they would loan you. You could try swapping out the ignition module to eliminate that as a possible suspect. Could be faulty electronics in the unit doing something funky at low RPMs. Not a typical fault, but it is an easy check if there is a spare module around some where.

Is this a true statement for the GEN-II Royal Star Ventures? I thought all of the ignition functions were taken care of by the ignition control module? I know on my 07 with a DYNA 2K ignition module I could dial the spark advance with the dip switches on the DYNK 2K module. I do not have my Venture anymore so no way to confirm the presence of vacuum advance.

Not normally, but it is worth looking at I think. Other than when you roll on the throttle at low RPMs the bike seems to run fine? Have you checked where the boots from the air box connect to the top of the carbs? Sometimes they are hard to get back on just right and you could have one that is not sealed to the carb throat properly or maybe the clamp is not tight, just some thoughts.

Have you checked the fuel filter?

Have you modified the air boxes or added K&N filters? On my 07 after I did a double whammy where I opened up the air boxes after installing K&N filters it would "bog" down at certain RPMs while applying the throttle, then catch up and run fine. First I shimmed out the slider needles on the carbs, but eventually found a set of stock air boxes and swapped the modifies ones out and went back to stock. That cured my problem. What speeds and what gear are you in when this happens, could be you are lugging the engine down, you cannot e going down the road at 55 mph in 5th gear and quickly open the throttle up on these bikes, they will stumble almost every time, now 3rd gear at 55 mph, crack the throttle, you best be hanging on. Just a few thoughts. Keep us posted on what you learn.

So here are some more ideas. First I firmly believe in Seafoam, it works, do not be afraid to use it. Close the petcock and run the bike until it dies from fuel starvation. Disconnect the fuel line from petcock and fit another tube of some type to the end of the rubber fuel line. Put the end of fuel line extension into a can of Seafoam and turn the key on, the fuel pump will pull pure Seafoam right up to the carbs and fill the bowls. Let that sit for a few hours or overnight. Would not hurt to tap on the carbs a few time while the Seafoam is in there. Put a healthy dose of Seafoam in the fuel tank and reconnect the fuel line to the petcock. After the Seafoam has had a chance to work on the junk in the carbs, open the petcock and start the bike, it will be a bit hard to start but, it will do on the Seafoam, may smoke some white smoke at first and may run a bit rough until it starts getting real gas again. Let it run until you have purged the bowls and the carbs are full of fuel. Check for leaks that you have noted above. FYI On this bike it is a good idea to shut the petcock and let it starve for fuel each time you shut it down if it is going to be parked for a few days or more. It is always a good idea to shut the petcock off each time you stop especially if you have a sticking float, because the fuel can leak down into the cylinders and create a hydro-lock situation where you could have a cylinder full of liquid fuel on the compression stroke, that has been known to break things. Good luck, keep us posted on your progress.

Condolences to Rick and family.