M61A1MECH

Two PMs sent, second one has phone # of gentleman with a couple sets.

Yep, you should have seen the look on his face when I pointed out to him that the one we were looking at, which happened to be on a display bike at the Yamaha factory tent in Daytona during bike week, was on the wrong side of the bike to do any good. I asked; Why this one was on the right while mine was on the left? He scurried right off to get a technician, I came back later in the day and it had been swapped to the other side.

The heat shield part is there "according to Yamaha rep" I spoke with once is to deflect fuel that could get spilled when filing the tank away from the motor, just telling what I was told. The wire thingy is there to remind not to wear shorts when riding a motorcycle, because that little bugger will burn the crap out of you if you do, don't ask me how I know that.

Well at least it did not get you lost. I have many times had basecamp do that , to me base camp is just not user friendly.

I am not sure if this has been discussed before or not, I did not find any threads when I searched for it. I have never figured out Base Camp, but I am pretty good with Streets and Trips, but until now had not found a concise set of directions for doing a file transfer from S&T to a Garmin. I just ran across a very clear concise set of instruction to import Streets & Trips routes to a Garmin. I can tell you that the process works as far as getting the GPX file imported to the Garmin and when using the preview function in the Garmin the route on the GPS it looks correct. I have not done any trips using this file transfer method, so I cannot vouch that the route that Garmin GPS uses is exactly the route I planned. In the post I saw on the Goldwing rider forum a few years ago someone mentioned needing to use multiple waypoints in S&T to force the Garmin software to follow the route you want. As soon as I can I will test this process out and report back, in the meantime here are the instructions I found. Try them out and let us know how it works. IMPORT STREETS AND TRIPS TO GARMIN.pdf

The caliper only needs to be relocated if the rear end is lowered with something like the Baron's kit, but I have heard of folks not using the relocation kit when lowered. And Feebird is correct on the visuals of the links, after market ones will likely not be dogbone shaped

If the bike is to tall for you, try to confirm if the previous owner put leveling links on the bike, those are a common modification and they raise the rear end by about 3/4 inch If the PO is not available to talk to or no maintenance log available, the only way to be sure is to get down and measure the dog bone links on the rear suspension, I am sure some one here has the measurements for the stock and modified links. Barons makes a lowering it for the rear.

Those are Korean bikes, they have been selling them around Daytona for a few years I forget which model it was they have, but it visually resembled a Harley V-Rod so much I think Harley filed a suit against them. Did not know they were using Suzuki V-twins. To me that one looks a lot like a Yamaha V-Star 250 0r 650. I think this is the one I am thinking about, http://www.motorcyclenews.com/bike-reviews/hyosung/gv650-aquila/2006/

One habit I have gotten into over the years of suffering from CRS is when I am doing maintenance on the bike or car that if the vehicle were started or moved could cause serious damage, I take the key out of the ignition or out of my pocket and hang it on the wall. That way if I am half way into something and get interrupted I cannot just jump on the bike or in the car and roar off with out going and retrieving the key, that is when the brain says , "Why is the key on the wall?" It is just enough of a reminder to cause me to pause and review what I had been doing before being interrupted. Remove before flight tags are also great reminders, I have one on the string attached to my side stand plate I use when parking on soft soil or hot asphalt parking lot. String with remove before flight tag are attached to the left grip, hard to forget.

Chuck, Thanks , pm sent

A friend in north Georgia is putting a Venture trunk on his Stratoliner, the "wing" that goes around the trunk lock and extends left and right is damaged, he looking for a replacement. If anyone has de-badged their Venture and has one they want to get rid of, I would be happy to put the two of you in touch. I have already told him to check Pinwall, so he may find one on his own. The part he needs can be seen in the photo.

I agree with Dion, something does not sound right, if the removed lights were auxiliary driving lights or fog lights and controlled from a switch, they should have no impact on the turn signals. What did you tie into the wires that were left by the dealer? I assume you had to split the fairing to get to the wires, maybe some thing got pinched in the reassembly process or the ground for he turn signals got dropped and they are finding a new ground path, I did have a filament on a front turn signal go out once, the light still blinked but at a high rate, because the turn signal circuit was going through the running light filament which has less resistance than the turn signal filament, so higher flash rate. I never did figure out if that was a fluke or a feature, but parked it in the memory banks in case I have it happen again. You did not happen to change over to led turn signal lamps at the same time did you? That will cause the turns to blink faster if no load resistors are installed.

Yes watch the weight, also the hinge and struts that hold the trunk lid open may not like the weight if the bag is really loaded and on the lid when it is opened and latched in the full up position. That would be a great place for rain suits and one change of dry clothes for each of you, always a pain trying to get into the side bags in the rain and if stopped under an overpass or on the side of the road, getting in the side bag that is closest to the traffic lane is scary and dangerous, having rain gear in the back bag would be better.

Mike, I do not suffer from it, but a couple of guys where I used to work did from time to time and it was something to do with crystals developing in the fluid in their inner ear, they had to go on meds to dissolve the crystals. Maybe totally different from your condition, I do not know, I am not a doctor, but it could be something they did not consider in their diagnosis.

Check the radiator cap, could be getting weak or have bad gasket, that should result in fluid going to the overflow tube, but if it is just hot vapor or "steam" it could sneak out and it is forward of you when riding. While you are in that area look at the hoses, the temp sensors and the thermostat housing. Also check that 90 degree pipe that comes of the water pump, it just slips into an o-ring seal, if the screw on the bracket came loose it could move and create a small leak.

Thank you all for the well wishes and encouragement After 3.5 months of job searching and not one interview , yesterday after calling two local real estate brokers, I have two interviews on Monday. Now I am really excited about this decision.

Drain the tank completely and try to maneuver the tube to the gas cap hole, will probably require turning it up side down and a lot of shaking and tilting, hopefully it will eventually come to the hole where you can grab it with a pair of forceps of needle nose pliers. You could also pull the send level sending unit from the bottom of the tank while you have it off and up side down, just be careful, taking the sending unit out is a bit fiddily it does not pull straight out you have to nurse it out to make the curves and crooks I the sending unit work out of the hole. That will give another vantage point to look inside and maybe find the tube.

Well there you go, do not think they fit on my Goldwing so I will pass on them so Rob can get them if he wants.

After being laid off the first part of April and not getting any real prospects for a job in the surrounding 75 mile radius, I decided to go to Real Estate school and learn what it takes to be a Sales Associate. Passed my class exam yesterday and my state exam today, so now I just need to find a Real Estate Broker willing to take me on and activate my license. This is a complete 180 turn from what I have always done, so I am excited to get started on my new path.

Those large lights on either side of the stock tail light are Harley lights, a little hard to find these days and normally expensive. if anyone finds a set and wants an easy no mess way to connect them up, I have just the ticket for you. Freebird used them on the bike he just finished setting, really makes it easy.

I have had really good luck with this style, from Snap on.

Pictures help to show the issue a bit more clearly, can you post some photos? Often if you can get a Dremmel tool or a hacksaw blade on the head of the screw you can cut a slot in it that you can put a flat blade screwdriver in and use that to break the stuck hardware loose. Much depends on the actual location of the part. I do not have my Venture to go look at anymore , but if I am thinking of the same part you are talking about, I recall that part being accessible with the tank still installed, if you remove the tank does that afford you any better access on the head of the screw?

I put these on my Goldwing, they may work on the Venture, if you contact the seller they may know or if not maybe you can return them for a refund. https://addonaccessories.net/footrests/gl1800-adjustable-passenger-pegs.html

Under the driver's seat to the left of the battery there should be a white 6 pin connector that connects the fender harness to the main electrical harness, this connector has the circuits for the tail light, brake light, left and right turns as well as a ground wire. As Dion noted I make break out harness for various bikes that allow you to just un-plug that connector and plug in my break out adapter that has those 5 circuits broken our as "tag" wires so you can just splice into them with butt splices. There is room under the passenger seat to route a harness assembly, if you are interested here is a link to my section on he Vendors Classified section, I can make up just about anything you want I just need to know what you have and what you need. For ad on trunks like this I always recommend putting a water proof connector in line near the trunk, so if you decide to remove it you just unplug instead of pulling out all of the wiring or cutting the harness just to splice it back when you reinstall. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showcat.php?cat=18 I am happy to work with you to design up what ever you need.

Rob, Did the harness arrive in good condition? Will it be OK for your needs?