M61A1MECH

I started with a 750 Virago, forget the year, but probably a 1994. Then a 1998 Royal Star Tour Classic Thena 2007 Royal Star Venture All were trouble free.

If you do not have these you will nee them to properly hang the mufflers. http://pinwallcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=47548&osCsid=k3c0cs1ro5d0s9n3a5gm2ta5j3

So I looked at your profile and the bike in your photos is a 4 pipe exhaust se up, the stock 1999 Tour Classic was a 4 into 2 pipe set up similar to the Venture ones you are buying. One of two things has happened, the previous owner took the 4 into 2 pipes off the bike or the model you have is not truly a Tour Classic. Yamaha put out up to 5 or 6 different models of the Royal Stars each year from 96 to around 99, some models were pipers others 4 x 2 set ups. I know for a fact that starting in 1998 the Tour Classics were all 4 x 2 set ups coming out of the factory. Looking at the photos in your profile I would say that you do not have the stays for the saddle bags installed , those are required for the 4 x 2 mufflers to hang on. Those are way to heavy and long to just let them hang in the breeze off the header pipes, the mufflers have to be supported.

cowpuc asked Sort of, the diode will only let one half of the sine wave through, so you will get a pulsed or chopped DC signal , to make AC into DC with minimal pulsing or chopping you need 4 diodes in the form of a rectifier bridge. Go here http://newton.ex.ac.uk/teaching/CDHW/Electronics2/SimSheet-02.html and go to milestone 4 to see a typical bridge rectifier circuit.

As long as your Tour Classic still has the stays for the saddle bags the only issue you will have is fabricating an adapter plate to hang the mufflers. The Tour Classics that had the 4 x 2 exhaust systems have a straight vertical tab off the top of the mufflers that aligned with a tab on the bottom of saddle bag brackets. The Venture style mufflers use a tab that goes up and bends over (as I recall) so the mufflers will not be a direct bolt on replacement, but I doubt that it is rocket science making an adapter. (I am doing all this from memory, I do not have my old Tour Classic or my Venture any more to verify my memory so I could be a little off on the details) but I do know the mufflers on the two models attach differently.

Well I can use them to build my light bars, I can use them at $0.10 each (while supply lasts) to replace the ones I have been buying from DigiKey for$0.37 each plus shipping and I get the benefit of poking around this great little surplus shop that just opened in town, check it out https://www.facebook.com/Planet-Surplus-1611291625785081/

Perfect, thanks guys.

I picked up some through hole mount style diodes at a local surplus store yesterday, couple of pennies each, so I figured I would just search the internet when I got home , using the info printed on the diode to get the specs. Well no luck, I have searched every which way I can think, I looked at DIGIKEY's website and MOUSER's website both with no luck. Hoping that some ore knowledgeable electronics guru can help me out. Standard bi-axial design (leads in each end) Physical size: diameter 0.197" (5.0 mm), length 0.36" (9.0 mm), black with silver stripe Info on the body: S3A2F SI 8318 I have more invested in time searching for info on them than time to find them in the store. It has now become a quest to find the information more than just idle curiosity.

Here is a video up date to this thread. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kubMa4Q5Jjc&feature=youtu.be I like it!

If there is oil left in the shock or if the oil has leaked out into the dust boot around the shock and it lets go while riding, all that oil will dump out in front of the rear wheel, could be very exciting for a few seconds.

Eck, what about that flat woven lacing cord the aircraft / military use for binding wire harnesses ? It is really tough in a static application, not sure I have ever used it for a dynamic application like your beaded seat. Here is a link, http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/BreydenLacingTapes.php?clickkey=545286

Our thoughts are with you and yours, very sorry to hear such sad news.

Most everything you will need for tis bike is in the technical library section. here is a link to the library http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?14-Second-Gen-and-Royal-Star-Technical-Library-READ-ONLY! Here is a link to changing the fork oil. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?57207-Changing-the-Fork-Oil

Yeah Yamaha has dropped the STAR name as a product line, they will continue to brand certain models as STAR but they will be sold under the Yamaha name instead of STAR name. There cruiser line showing was nearly non-existent at Bikeweek in Daytona last week. I do not know what the are thinking, the only bikes they have now that even remotely interests me are the FJR and V-Max, they can keep everything else as far as I am concerned.

Not good news, here is a link to a thread over on Delphi, http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTrailertowing/messages/10412/1 Looks like he is out of business.

I can set you up with some 2 to 1 and 3 to 1 bullet connector adapters, they connect to the front running and turn signals, not the passing lights. You can see pictures of them here, http://s40.photobucket.com/user/royalsteve/library/One%20to%20Two%20bullet%20jumpers.

I just sent him a PM through the Delphi forum, I will let you know if I hear from him.

Never heard of anyone doing that, you would need to regulate the pressure down to what ever the regular system operating pressure is, other wise you risk damaging something like blowing a hose or making a hose clamp get loose , worst would be damaging the radiator. Unless the thermostat is out or fully open, all you will get is what is in the radiator if you do not pull the plugs in the cylinder jackets. Using this procedure from the tech section it really is not to hard, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?37353-Some-Tips-on-Changing-the-2nd-Gen-Coolant, the only thing I ever skipped was pulling the drain plug on the water pump, could not get mine to budge, figured best not to break some thing considering the small amount of fluid left in there.

Greg, I sell some 1 to 2 and 1 to 3 taps made from bullet connectors, I know you said you did not want to take the front apart, but inside the fairing the running lights and turn signals circuits are connected to the main harness using single bullet connectors, to me that is the best place to tap in. With my back to back taps, there is no cutting of wires, no soldering, just split the fairing, mount your lights, run the wires, add a male bullet provided with my kit to you new wires, unplug the stock bullets, plug in my tap and connect all the bullets to the tap, close the fairing, ride on. Here is a link to some photos of the taps. http://s40.photobucket.com/user/royalsteve/library/One%20to%20Two%20bullet%20jumpers I do not have prices with me right now, but can get that to you easy if you are interested. I also make light bars for the rear and trailer harnesses if you ever need them, see my adds in the vendor classified section.

Their fitment guide says they will not work. One thing to look at is how they mount to the Triple tree, the hole in the bottom has a UNS 1/2" x 13 TPI thread not a metric thread. I do not have a Venture to look at any more and I just do not recall how the stock bar mounts attach, if it is simply a bolt thru from the bottom, maybe you could substitute a UNS 1/2" x 13 TPI bolt. Make sure it is a high grade steel bolt or stainless steel.

cowpuc, Yes , I have been following that thread over on Delphi for a couple of days, I was thinking the subject was brought here on VR, but maybe not. I am OK with hijacking this thread to talk about another Yamaha boondoggle.

Here is a post over on Delphi from a guy in London, England, that is building what Yamaha should have built the first time around with the Royal Stars. If they had done this, we would probably still have new Ventures to buy. http://forums.delphiforums.com/vrider/messages/?msg=16021.25

Sounds like you may have it indexed incorrectly. There are alignment marks on the plates and basket, see this topic by Freebird, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?10518-Clutch-Upgrade, lok for the section right after the big orange hammer:eek: If not that, did you happen to pull the clutch lever in while the clutch was disassembled? That can cause the piston to become mis-located or ejected and lost.

Yes, they are quite popular own here in Florida where the old folks still have parents that want to ride and have gotten tied of going out and picking up their parent's bike after it fell over.

I never rally paid attention to how much water they retained or how long they stayed damp, but living in Florida I have ridden in the rain a lot and it never presented a problem. How long d they last, generally at least 3 years between replacement the ones on my Goldwing have been there about 1.5 years and look new, on my 2007 Venture in the 7 years I had it think I replaced each side one time , much could depend on if the bike is left in the sun or garaged when not being ridden. The UV in sunlight would probably be harmful, but the carbon black that is in them to give them strength and the black color helps to absorb the UV rays and slow down the degradation.