M61A1MECH

Yeah considering you have a month worth of summer each year , we have a month worth of winter, the economics of AC/Heat and comfort are very different.

Shameless promotion of my product. If you want more light back there you can add one of these also, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=7&title=type-2-run-2fturn-2fbrake-light-bar-for-2nd-gen-ventures&cat=18

Mine lasted a litle over 20 years , that is the life span of hese systems , especially here in FL where they run in AC mode almost all year long. I did have issues with mine where the blower motor quit and the heat exchanger in side froze up and when the ice melted itsoaked some dry wall. As stated previously check for debris in the hea exchanger coil fins and for ice build up. Also make sure the drain from the condesent tray is clear and letting the water out, that will make a mess when it over flows. A litttle bleach in the drain eac month will kep that clean. Check for energy savings programs through your electric utility company, there were some very good deals in years past wher the electric companies helped with rebates and check for energy credits on your income tax, do buy the extended warrenty, I have had mine blow a capacitor once or twice and they came out on a Sunday and fixed it, no charge. When I replaced mine I went with and Amana unit, a little more noisy than the ofter one, but works well.

That is a good price, have seen the same or similar for $100.00 + shipping. Put one on my 98 Royal Star in 99 and transfered it to my 07 Venture in 07 it was still on the Venture when I sold it in 2014, all tolled probably traveled 160,000 miles with it on and never had an issue.

Barry, We had a great time a number of years ago just poking around Kentucky for a week, I am going back one day and when I do I plan on doing the http://kybourbontrail.com/ . I applied for my Bourbon passport, but it never showed up, unless the wife tossed it. I have to apply again I guess.

So is it to cryptic? My wife says I am the only one who will understand it. If you do decode the plate, then read the entire sentence starting at the top of the frame, go to the plate and then the bottom of the frame. Then it makes sense. I have not been able to take it out to see if I get any stares or comments.

Try http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=yh3wib, they have just about everything, I have even just got them to saplle me some things when I needed small quantities of something that had a large min purchase size. For a lot of the plastics they have sample sets you can get also.

Maybe, the problem is the chemicals in the loctite attach the plastic even in very smal amounts and cause it to stress crack and crumble. You are well advised to keep a close eye on those areas where you used the loctite looking for any evidence of cracks. The plastic used on bikes is generally ABS, not an overly sophisicated plastic. We use a lot of engineered plastics where I work and any amorphous plastic , even highly engineered ones like Ultem will stress crack in short order if loctite is used, funny that the crystaline plastics like PEEK do not suffer any ill affects from loctite. On a 1 to 10 scale, PEEK is about a 9 and ABS is about a 3 as far as chemical robustness goes. Bottom line as stated above do not use loctite type products any where near the plastic parts on your bike, all it takes is the fumes.

I maybe could afford the price tag on a new one, it is the divorce I could not afford.

I used that black aluminum strap I made to hold mine together, you could probably use automotive strength double sided tape to hold them together. I was not overly happy with the asthetics of the pieces, but once they in there you can barely see them. I put mine on within the first year I had the bike and they stayed there for the next 6 years and 70,000 miles never had a problem. I considered the drill and tap to add the handle bar simulating piece that Dion mentioned, but with the risers being such a critical part of the bike control system, if one would fail because of that hole, you would be in a world of hurt. So my conservitive nature would not let me do that mod.

YUP, what Freebird said.

Sorry to hear it happened, glad to hear you are ok.

When I put risers on my 07 , I went to the auto parts store and got a pack of those hard rubber spacers people put in between the coils of springs in the suspension to get a little bit of lift. The rubber is really hard, I shapped them using a disc sander fitted to my wood lathe, took a bit of fiddling around, I think I used the original dampers for the top because it was shaped to fit the handle bars and then attached the ones I made to them with an aluminum piece I painted black.

No there are no tips for Gen Venture mufflers, the Tour Deluxe muflers have a set of threaded inserts in the tail cone of the muffler that are designed to accept the screws that hold the removable tips that come on that model, they are more like slash cuts, but can be rotated to two or three positions. If you saw actual turn down tips or mufflersa they were after market. I had a set of Kromwerks on my 07, those were made originally to fit a Harley of some sort but Krome Werks made up a bracket to adapte the Harley attach points to the Venture , tey were a little unique because Krome Werks made the tips interchangeable and they sold a few diffeent styles. The turn downs could be rotated 90 degrees to make them turn outs, that is how I had mine set up. There was also another company, maybe Jardine , that made a set of slipons that wee strickly turn downs, the tips were part of the muffler outer shield and could not be turned or changed. Krome Werks is as far as I know not making those muflers any more and not very many people are making slip ons or exhaust systems for the Royal Star line anymore.

So here is a very simple thing you can do to determine if it is the battery self discharging , like it would do if it had a bad cell or internal short, or if it is the bike drainign the voltage. Get the battery chatged up, test the voltage and record it, leave the battery disconnected from the bike and leave it over night or better yet for 24 hours, check the voltage again, if it has dropped significantly then you have a bad battery. If it has not dropped , then hook it back up to the bike and repeat, if you find after the hold time the voltage has dropped, it must be something on the bike. Could be a shorted diode in the rectifier / regulator I have seen that happen on cars many times.

So if you want to get a heads up on if Mother Yamaha is bringing out a new model, Venture or otherwise, click on this link and go to the bottom of the list. This is the official list of bikes that have been checked by the state of California for emmissions, this is likely to be the first place any hint of a new model will show up. http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/onroad/cert/hmc/2016/2016.php 10 models so far on the list, all existing models best I can tell.

Walt, Both #7 and #8 are seals that have to be replaced, I am pretty sure Yamaha sells and overhaul kit for that operation, should include seals, bearing(s), pins and "C" Clip(s). If you have to replace one seal you may as well do both while you are in there. Make sure you get the gasket and the O-ring seal also, I forget if the gear comes as part of the kit, but I recall replacing mine on my 98, maybe just to be safe while I was in there.

Dion, I got this.

There is a stainer built on to the petcock,the tubes that stick up into the tank have a very fine mesh screen on them. Drain the tank and pull the petcock and inspect and clean.

If you do and the dash is cracked or sticky, take it in to the dealer and find out if you qualifiy for the extended warrenty campaign they have going for that problem. Just about a week ago i had a guy give me a quote to fix the cracks in the dash of my wife's Solara Convertible , he told us there was a recall on Lexus for the cracking dash issue and suggested we check with Toyota about it. Well the very next day I got a letter in the mail from Toyota saying they were offering to replace dashes that were sticky or cracked on the model we have. Took it in to the dealer today, letter in hand ready for a fight, but no hassel at all, service writer looked it over, took the needed info and said I will order it and call when it is here, schedule you in, give you a loaner car for a few days. Before I got home, he had called to tell me the dash was on order and they would get back to me. I am glad , because te repair quote was $600.00 with the likely hood that the cracking will continue after the repair.

Jack, Just remind her that "Resistance is futile" the leak gremlins will be assimilated.

How deep do have plant those things to be sure they grow? Do you put them in heads up or heads down?

I would take the time to remove the harness, there was a member just the other day wanting to buy one, they go for abouut $20.00 on ebay, I paid $75.00 for the first one I bought from a local audio shop. If you do just whack it, make sure none of the leads are shorted together there are 12 or 13 wires in there.