M61A1MECH

The power outlet (cigarette lighter type socket) on the inside of the fairing is switched with the ignition. In side the fairing is a two pin connector that feeds the power outlet. I sell a "T" harness that will let you tap into that circuit, all you need to do is add two contacts to your GPS power harness and insert them into the connector I provide. Cost is $13.00 delivered to the lower 48, add $5.00 to deliver to Canada. Here is photo.

There was someone here or on the Delphi forum that found a way to make his own preformed hoses for a First Gen. He would use a standard piec of like heater hose, for copper wire to go inside the hose to make it the shape he wanted, then put it in boiling water so the hose took the shape, remove the wire forms and the hose stayed in the shape. I have also seen a coiled wire spring type device like a conduit bender that you put over a straight piece of hose and bend it in place on the car or bike and leave the spring coil tube on the hose to maintain the shape with out kinking the hose.

Check my add in member vendors for a rear light bar, have one ready to ship.

I would still opt for the compession test and leak down check. Flyingfool has some very good observations also, if you bust a connecting rod you got big troubles.

One way to diagnose a head gasket failure is to do a compression check and leak down check. Yes water pump kit would be much cheaper. Is there water in the oil also? If you do not have the equipment to do the compression check and leak down, find out how much that would cost at the dealer or good reputable motorcycle shop, could be money well spent, blown head gaskets on Royal Stars are pretty rare. I have been around the Royal Star bikes since 1997 and only recall a couple of blown head gaskets, but lots of failed water pump seals, I was a victim myself and also immediately thought blown gasket. After having a compression test and leak down performed , both showing no issues, the service manager was scratching his head, he was long time Yamaha mech and had a V-Max as a daily rider, so was very familiar with the motor. We sat down and looked at the schematics together and after I pointed out the connection of the cooling system and oil system at the water pump, he agreed that was the likely culprit. Once I got the pump changed it took a good while to get all of the oil out of the cooling system. Not saying that is for sure your issue, but I would investigate that before diving into the motor.

Well first the previous owner was clueless in a number of ways. There are no 4 cylinder V-Stars, only V-Twins There is no 1500 V-Stars, I am not aware of any 1500 cc Yamaha's What you have is a Royal Star Standard, built from 1996 to 2001. How do you know it needs a new head gasket? If by chance you have oil in your coolant, it is probably a bad water pump seal, happens on these bikes at around the mileage you have. You may want to try here for a manual and more info, http://forums.delphiforums.com/royalstar

Very similar to the Honda F6B Goldwing in looks. Good looking bike.

Cowpuc, Yes the 1996 to 2001 original Royal Stars, of which one model was called Tour DeLuxe had 22mm carbs, low performance cams and the valve springs were weak, a few folks have made adapters to fit the larger carbs from newer Venture /Tour Deluxe to them , that helps, they make a DYNA 3K ignition for them but with the cams and springs as they were there was a note in the DYNA set up instruction cautioning about setting the rev limiter above a certain point, becaus eit could result in valve float. If went to the trouble of puting in lager carbs, you would probably need to go in and port and polish the heads, maybe try for some larger valves, V-max cams and springs and open up the breather system because it was also vey restrictive. Or do what Gary Dingus (Dingy) is doing fit a Gen I motor to a standard Royal Star frame. So where is Dingy, have not seen him on the boards for a long time.

Most Harley shops have bins of them laying around, seems to be the first thing Harley riders do is change the pipes. Someone can advise about looking for the ones without the catalytic converters in them.

You are going to love that thing, the 40th edition really has a nice color combo. Check out http://www.gl1800riders.com/forums/index.php, lots of good info, similar to here but not as good.

If they are modified stock pipes. then nothing you can do but replace them with stockers or Harley Road King stockers if you want quiet Either can normally be found easily for around $100.00.

Mine is ready to ride, I just need a really small helmet and some goggles.

One Question. Do you have a Wagner radiator grill guard on your bike? If you do you will want to remove it and grind dow the area just behind the fender. The rear of the front fender on lowered bikes can in some circumstances make contact with the Wagner grill. Normally happens during panic or hard breaking events.

David, I got your order I wil work something up for you this evening and send you a quote. Steve K

Chris, If you are interested, I also make some back to back bullet connectors, those will come in very handy when you do the front ones. The front signal wires have bullet connectors inside the fairing. Those "T"-taps you used can wear right thru the wires they slice into, had that happen to me on a trailer wire set up, that is what motivated me to design the Aux Break out harnesses. Send me an email I will send info on the bullets.

Diameter is 2.45" essentially the same size as stock badge. To get the factory badges off, tape the fairing around the badge to protect the paint, heat the badge up with a hair dryer and once hot GENTLY pry off with a small screw driver. Takes some time and patience. Apply the new badge with good quality automotive double sided tape. Electrical connection makes a lighted kit that you can put between the fairing and the badge and it lights up the badge and acts as a turn indicator.

Badges are installed. Here are so pics of the right side badge installed

Only the second Royal Star motor I have heard of that self destructed, Yamaha was so amazed at the first one they footed the bill to replace the motor. That was probably 8 or 9 years ago. I also would not be concerned about a used motor, Pinwall is pretty good about documenting the bikes before they strip them down, usually do a video showing that it was running before the tear down.

Well I for one know that I do not suffer from any type mental disorder I enjoy every minute of it.

Her just announced last night on the F6B forum that the badge business would be on hold for the next few months, he just landed a new contract for some custom motorcycle parts for a company in SD, that will take all of his time. He may take an order and just put you on a list and get to you when he can. If you PM me I can give you his email address and see what he says, worst he can say is no.

I was poking around the Goldwing F6B forum. looking for a set of muffler tips and I came across these things called Hambly Badges. Found out they are custom made badges to replace the Honda Badges on the Goldwing fairing. So I sent him a copy of my Gunslinger Avatar to see what he could do with it. Well here they are, can not wait to get them installed. What do you think?

Crank case is or has been over filled, those vent tubes come from the air box, the crankcase vents into the air box so the fumes will be pulled into the crabs and burnt with the fuel, if the fume get to a point where they collect inside the air box and stick to the walls they condense back into oil and then drip out of the tubes. Make sure when you check the oil level the bike is level and the level is just below the mark. If you pull the air box and wipe out all the oil residue the spots on the floor will stop appearing after a while. Happens to these bikes all the time.

I know exactly how that guy is feeling, I have been granted no less than 5 security clearances for various military service and government contracts I worked on. All five went to the NSA , all five had the same information in them, for past history, family history and those sorts of things that just cannot change because they are in the past. Geeze Louise keep some records for God's sake.

Excellant point about bike not specified, my reply is based on the second gen royal star ventures.

The auto cancel is tripped by distance traveled after the signal is turned on, that is why the time stops when the bike stops. I am not aware of any way to increase the time they stay on. I was always in the habit of tripping the signal back on if I traveled any sort of distance before turning, to keep the signal flashing.