M61A1MECH

I am not sure which ones you are looking at on E-bay, but this is the one I had on both my 98 Tour Classic and my 07 Venture. Very well made, very comfortable and easy to install. http://www.utpr.com/rsv.html

I have also taken the lever and tied it back and tapped on the entire line as far as I could trace it back, also have left the handle tied back overnight to allow for the time it may take for small bubbles to work thier way out, then tapped some more. Cover any paint or plastic in the process to help kep the fluid from spilling on any surfaces.

I just looked at the Kaw website, the reflector on the frong fort is very similar to the one on Vulcan bagger, mounted in a way that I think is unique to Kaw. The saddle bag hinges are also very similar to the Kaw, the rear florboards are similar in size and shape to the Kaw also. But could be a early April fool. 2015 VULCAN® 1700 VOYAGER® ABS Cruisers Motorcycle by Kawasaki

Found this over on Delphi Venture forum New Royal Star Venture Spotted? [royalstar 10132.1]

It is the ignition system, you can change it out with a DYNA3K #D3K7-5 . Here is link. https://dynacart.dynojet.com/p-1235-dyna-3000-yamaha-1999-2008-venture-royal-starrstd.aspx

I noticed a huge improvement when I installed the 100 LED board with flasher module on my 98 Tour Classic, which eventually found its way to my Venture. I am in the habit of watching my rear views a lot, especially after being rear ended in 98. Cagers that are coming up fast behind me in traffic or at a stop light/sign would nearly lock up their brakes if I flashed them with my brake light flasher. In my opinion, it saved me from being rearended again more than once. As soon as I am comfortable sorting out the complicated lighting system on my Goldwing, I am putting a flasher on it also.

Under the seat there is a set of connectors that hook the main harness to the fender harness, it is a small white 6 pin connector set. I make an aux harness that plugs into those connectors to allow adding more lights or a trailer hook up. With a bit of information from you and a little tweeking I can make a plug and play set up for your flasher.

Looking at the specs on that flasher unit, it will be a tight fit behind the license plate, you may be better to do as vzuden suggested and locate it under the seat, I do not have an adapter for that exactly but I can make you something. If you want to go this route, the best way to make the adapter would be for you to send me the unit, let me integrate it into an adapter harness for you. Let me know.

It would help a lot if you told us what make and model bike you have. If you have a 96 to 2001 Royal Star, 99 to 2013 Venture or 2005 to 2010 Tour DeLuxe, there should be at least 5 wires in there, the colors and functions are listed below. Left Turn = Brown Brake = Yellow Tail Light = Blue Ground = Black Right turn = Dark Green. I make and sell some back ro back bullet connects that will make the install a breeze and you will not have to cut any wires. PM me and I can get you a price and some up to date photos, below is a link to something simial I make, the back to back jumpers have the wire removed and the bullets are soldered right together. One To Two Bullet Jumpers Photos by royalsteve | Photobucket

All who replied, Thanks again for the replies, does my heart good that the folks I consider friends on this forum, think the same way I do. The issued is now solved, the OP did contact the seller and agreed to purchase the items, so now I am still looking , and have a clear conscience.

Cowpuc, Actually I did both of the actions you suggested, posted that I was interested and PMed the seller asking how he would like to be paid if the deal goes down. Thanks to all who have replied, I am watching the OP's signature page to see if he is getting on the forum, I saw in his profile that he is an airline pilot, so his availabilty may be limited by his schedule.

I am in a bit of a quandary over an issue on another forum I visit. I am hoping to hear what others think is the proper protocol for this situation. A member posted a "Want to buy" post for a certain item that I also have been wanting to purchase and have been watching a few forums hoping to find some. A few hours later another member posted that he had just that item and was willing to sell them, and listed a delivered price. I PMed the seller to tell him I was interested in purchasing the items if the Original Poster (OP) did not take them and asked for some photos so I could make a decision on them. Photos arrived , they looked good and worth the price. The seller was ready to sell them to me on the spot, I was not comfortable with that , because I felt I was taking advantage of the OP and felt like we needed to give him a chance to respond to the seller's offer. I suggested the seller wait for 24 to 48 hours before actually selling them to me so as to be fair to the OP. The wrinkle is, the OP has been on the forum since the offer was made by the seller and has not replied. So in the world of internet motorcycle forums, buying and selling things, what is the proper protocol in a situation like this. The seller is happy to wait for either the OP or me to make a decision, and I have made it clear I will buy them when I feel I should without feeling I have trampled on the OP. I would appreciate any feed back, what would you do? Thanks

It is not really an O-ring seal, just a regular aluminum crush washer, that is what was on my 07 Venture and my 98 Royal, any ways. I just measured some that I bought from Gold Plug when I got my magnetic drain plug, they measure 14.25 mm ID and 22 mm OD, the drain bolt appears to be a 14 mm. Hope this helps

So Gary, what is the latest update on that project, have not seen much lately.

Gary Dingus AKA Dingy is fitring a Gen I motor to a Gen II frame, one big isue is where the exhaust ports ar eon the heads, you can PM Gary here is a link to his profile. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/member.php?u=5971

Well I can the problem, You peeled the wrong half.

Bryon, see my reply in the welcome section where you asked the same question. Are you certain it is gas leaking? Really should not be any fuel going thru those boots, they only connect the air box to the intake of the carbs, the fuel comes into the carbs in the body of the carbs below the boots. What you may be seeing is oil leaking from the air box , pretty common on these bikes because they have a crankcase vent that dumps oil fumes into the air box.

Click on this link to V7Goose's write up on changing coolant. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/37353-tips-changing-2nd-gen-coolant.html

Barry, Battery is toast, take the volt meter I gave you with you and check the voltage on he battery like Flying Fool said.

Barry, Glad to hear you made it back safe , was thinking about you a lot today, wondering if you had gone with the weather and all. Good for you.

I have a few pairs of socks made from Alpaca wool, best riding socks I have ever used, warm inthe winter and moisture wicking in the summer. Here is alink to an online store I use "Superwarm" Heavy Extreme Alpaca Socks | Purely Alpaca, they not cheap but they are good.

I have not seen the diagram of this circuit, but speaking in general terms. If the diode is in series with the coil, it should still act the same as any diode, continuity in one direction and open in the other, the relay coil in that configuration will not change that. BUT If the diode is in parallel with the coil , now you should get continuity in both directions, however, in one direction where it is going thru the coil only, you should have continuity with some resistance in the circuit that is indictive of the coil's resistance. The diode in parallel with the coil is pretty common in aircraft wiring, this eliminates the spike caused as the coil voltage collapses when the relay is de-energized, thos spikes raise havoc with sensitive electronics used in aircraft comms and instument systems.

For what it is worth, I have noticed that any post I respond to, where I am the last poster, it is not visible to me on the forums, I cannot see them until I got to my profile and look up posts I have started or responded to. Maybe that is the way it supposed to work, but it is not very convienient and was very frustrating until I figured it out.

Did you change to a Barnett coil spring pressure plate? If not did you change the stock diaphragm spring? What are you using for oil?

I used to get that a lot when I had my Venture and my Royal Star Tour Classic. Normally it was worse after a hard run home on the super slab, it is the carbs, try turning the petcock off as you approach home to start draining the bowls, then once it is parked, let it idle until it dies because it starved for fuel, that should get rid of the fuel odor.