M61A1MECH

That is very odd, normally the Barnett pressure plate fixes the issue for good. I have seldom heard of Yamaha friction plates wearing out unless they were slipping badly for a long time or abused. One fellow that was over on Delphi, had a slipping clutch and then entered a slow race competition and smoked his friction plates really bad, that is about the only case I have heard of. I suspect this has been asked before, but are you certain the oil you are using or may have used in the past was suitable for a wet clutch? If the friction plates were exposed to an improper oil type they could have soaked up enough of the friction modifiers so as hey weak they continue to leach out those modifiers and cause slipping. Are you pulling a heavy trailer that is adding extra load on the clutch? Just for grins, you should mic the friction plates and the steels when you remove them, to see if they are out of spec, if they are then yes if the total height of the stack is short enough it will result in a slipping clutch , I would be very interested in hearing if the plates are out of spec or not. Good luck, and as MarCarl noted , best to change out all of them if you are in there doing the change.

Follow the tire manufacturer specs, the bike specs are for the OEM tires that come on the bike from the factory, normally those are Bridgestones. Not using the tire manufacturer specs , especially in the case of the Metzlers, is potentially related to the high failure rate that have been reported on those tires.

Ok so the same fuse that feeds the front running lights also powers the tail light, dash lights and head light. If those are working it is not the fuse, which I believe is labeled as the head light fuse. Could be the spring loaded contacts in the light socket are corroded and not making contact. What have you done to verify the bulbs are good? Have you tried a different set of bulbs , just for grins?

May be a new Venture coming one day, but will need to be one heck of a machine to get me off my Goldwing.

This has been a common problem with Meltzer's over the years, Meltzer will not stand behind their product and continually blame the user for improper inflation causing the issues.

If you have a 2001 Venture, then yes any 1999 to 2013 Venture motor will bolt right in, they made no changes to the Venture motor or the bike for that matter from 1999 to 2013. If you have a 2001 Royal Star then it can be done it has been done but takes a bit of doing.

I got tired of crawling under vehicles to change the oil, both the wife's Solara and my GMC Terrain you can access the oil filters from under the hood, so I bought one of those vacuum systems that sucks the oil out through the dipstick tube to see if it would work. Surprisingly enough it worked quite well , the one I have is a basket ball sized translucent white sphere with graduations on it, you can see the oil as it gathers inside and you can tell if you got all or most of it out by looking at the level. Works the best if the motor has been warmed up to get the oil flowing easy. Maybe not the best way to drain the oil out, but beats getting on the floor and crawling under or cleaning up a mess that I always seemed to make.

The link does not work, but found several videos on You Tube, saying you can revive car lead acid type batteries with a solution of distilled water and Epsom salts. I have not tried that , but I did revive a 24 volt lithium battery for a lawn trimmer that would not charge due to being extremely depleted, to the point where the charger would not recognize it. Just took a like battery that was charged, put jumper wires from the good battery to the bad battery for a few hours. Got just enough charge in it so the charger would see it and it charged back up after being on the charger for an hour or so.

Taz is correct, I was confused the other day when I answered the OP on the question, I was thinking he was asking about putting an older Gen 1 1300 cc motor into a Royal Star frame, that would be the same as putting in a V-Max motor where the heads are ported differently. It is possible to put a Royal Star Venture motor into a standard (96 to 01) Royal Star frame. Sorry for the confusion.

You can pull the filter and lose only the oil that is in the filter, very little will drain out when you pull the filter, I was in the habit of changing the filter on my Venture about every 3,000 miles when I was running synthetic oil and changing the oil every 6000 miles, I would change the filter about half thru the interval.

I would suggest BLACBIRD, as in SR71,

I am pretty sure the heads are different as to where the exhaust ports are located, older Gen I and V-Max heads on front cylinders exit forward instead of out the side, Dingy is doing a project where he is putting a V-Max prepped Gen I motor into a Gen II frame which is very similar to an original Royal Star frame. There is a gent in England that put a V-Max motor into a 96 Royal Star, very extensive mods required. Here is a link to a thread I started on his project. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?116625-Here-is-one-guy-s-answer-to-Yamaha-not-doing-what-they-should-have-in-the-first-place

Nothing a little duck tape won't fix.

OK so it would help if you told us what bike you have, this is in the 3rd gen forum, there is no 3rd gen yet. If you have a 96 to 2001 Royal Star, 1999 to 2013 Royal Star Venture or 2005 to 2010 Tour Deluxe the R/R is dead center of the motor, at the front just behind the bottom of the radiator, look for a black box with heat sink fins on it pretty much directly in front of the oil filter.

The white plug under the seat that Freebird is talking about, should have both connector halves , the male side has black rubber plugs in it to seal it. If you decide to use that connector shoot me a PM, I have spare seals and male pins for that style connector. As I recall it is only good for something like 5 amps or less, if you need it for something like heated gear, you will need to run a different circuit or use that circuit to operate a relay to control a higher amperage circuit. The front mic cable is probably stowed under the ignition surround, as previously noted, it comes from the factory attached to the tank just left of the tank bib , they use double sided tape to fasten it to the tank.

The passing lights on the original Royal Stars had a switch on one of the cans for the light, may you have some older ones some one installed, do the go on and off with the high beam / low beam of the head light. Many if not all factory set ups, turn the passing lights off when the high beams go on.

Like above I have never heard of any one using a GL shock on a Venture, with all the research that has been done by folks on this site and the Delphi sites, I would have expected this option to have come up long ago if it really could work. I also expect that you will find anything tagged for the GL to be very pricey. As far as the volume goes, I am with Freebird, check the controller display to see if the letters HS (Head Set) are displayed, if so you have the audio going to the head set cable. If that is what you find, turn the volume down to about 10 before you switch back to SP (speakers), or you will be buying new speakers, because at 30 I suspect you blow them out. Is you are SP setting and still have no volume, try splitting the fairing and cleaning and greasing the plugs with dielectric grease, could be dirt or corrosion causing a bad connection. Some where on the 2nd Gen tech section here there are copies of the tech bulletins from Yamaha on doing this and fixing certain audio problems.

Because the shock on the early Royal Stars mounts different Larry's adapter will not work on the early (Pre-Venture) Royal Stars. The best way is to make some sturdy wooden blocks about 1.5" thick or get some hockey pucks and put them on the lift arms of the jack where they will contact the bike frame, the one on the left front that will be very close to the kickstand will need to be notched out to fit around the side stand switch, if you do not do this you will likely crush the side stand switch.

If you do not get an answer in a timely manner, you can always pull one of the links off your bike and have the person doing the work measure the holes.

I only did mine once, on my 98 and it was not nearly as much fun as I expected, so I never did it again, but when I did I made sure to have something under the front wheel so when the weight shifted as the rear was removed it could only go so far, even though I had her strapped to the lift I did not want to take a chance of the whole thing going nose down on me. I tend to be a bit more caution than necessary sometimes, but it worked for me. Good luck.

OK I was looking at their Run/Turn/Brake controllers that require cutting wires. The clusters are better , but the clusters are not truly plug and play, as you have to drill or enlarge a hole, route wires and use positaps or some other inline tap to gain access to the running and or brake light circuits. Positaps are way better to use than those guillotine snap on pieces if crap that to many folks use. I will say the clusters look to be very slick, I guess I never paid much attention to them when I saw them before.

I ran Dunlop E-3s on my Venture, generally got between 18,000 and 20,000 miles out of a set. Stay away from Metzlers, they tend to chunk out big pieces of tread from time to time, very unnerving when you look at your tire with a 6 x 2 inch section of tread missing and the cords showing in the hole, I was not pleased, fortunately it was already time to change them when that happened.

Post a link to that listing on their website, if you do not mind, I just checked again and I am still not seeing it, but have missed a lot of stuff in the past. Thanks

Ok I will try to offer as much info as I can, but I will tell you right up front, I owned a bike almost identical to what you purchased, and I am very biased to the idea that the bike is best left as a two up cruiser. What seats will fit this bike (rider seat)? Not sure why you want to change, the stock seat is actually made by Corbin and I have done 600 mile days on mine when I had it, but Corbin and Mustang did make seats for them back in the day. Anything like fender stays/eyebrows for these bikes (will be removing bags and all brackets/mounts for a solo setup) Fender stays and eye brows from a Venture or any other model Royal Star should fit, the fender is the same, but if you are removing the brackets that the bags fasten to, you will need to fabricate something to hang the mufflers on, the are to heavy to just hang out in the breeze. Will 1600 ROADSTAR FRONT BRAKE PADS Work On THE FRONT Of This bike? No idea, but if the part numbers match they will fit. Will grips and end weights from an 02 RSV work on this bike? not sure, maybe The plastic manifold covers are cracked and I read this is only cosmetic and not an issue....is this true and how much to replace them? yes true the cracks are cosmetic, but you can treat them with plastic dip or liquid electrical tape to cover the cracks. I have the stock 4-2 exhaust and I want more low rumble...am I better off to modify the stock pipes or get Harley slip ons (and if so what would give me the lowest tone/rumble of the stock Harley take off exhaust)? The best sound you will get out of that bike is from a set of full BUBS or BUBS slip ons, if you can find them. I'm gonna do all the basic maintenance on it at home (just hit 40k riding home). Oil and filter, final drive fluid, spark plugs, flush coolant, flush brake and clutch lines, check pads, set idle to 850 (lower end of factory spec), tighten all bolts, set front and rear shock pressure (3-5 front 20-30 rear), air filter, fuel filter. Gonna run cheap oil and filter with 1 qt MMO in oil and a bottle of MMO in gas tank for 150 miles then switch to Mobil 1 synthetic 4t and K&N filter. Runs fine now but I like to start from scratch. Anything else I should replace/look at? I know the valves are due to be checked/adjusted and I MAY have a local yamaha mechanic do that. No air on the rear shock, that did not show up on the Royal Line until the 99 Venture models and is only present on the Venture and later Tour Deluxe. I am not sure MMO is a good idea in the crank case, I never tried it, but would be leery with a wet clutch. I would use Seafoam in the gas tank. I will tell you from personal experience do not over shock the fuel system with anything that will loosen any old varnish. I over treated my 98 when I got a tank of bad gas and ended up needing a carb overhaul due to stuck needles. When I had my 98, all I wanted to do was to convert all the black leather to tan, I thought that would look really good, but to each his own, good luck with the conversion.