M61A1MECH

You can polish the bottoms of those floor boards and they will look like chrome, but you have to stay up with them or they will oxidize back to dull after a while. I wonder what would happen if you polished and clear coated them??

What did I win? You could also change out the filler plates above the rear floorboards to the ball milled style, everything else chrome I can see looks to be ball milled except those.

Chrome floor boards front and rear.

Depending on what you are doing, my aux lighting harness could or would have been a help, I also make custom ones for those applications where you have to interrupt the circuit for something like a modulator. Here is a link to one of my products on he member vendor page. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=4&title=aux-lighting-harness-for-2nd-gen-venture&cat=18 Good luck with what ever you are doing.

So here is my history with Yamaha oil. Back when I had my 98 Royal Star Tour Classic every time I would go to parts counter to get oil and filters, they would sell me Honda oil and Yamaha filter for about the first 4 years I owned it (40,000 miles) , one day I decided as I really like Yamaha I should stay brand faithful so I switched to Yamaha lube. Right after the switch I started getting slippage in the clutch, I drained out the Yamaha lube, pulled the clutch pack and cleaned everything with brake cleaner and reassembled with the Honda oil I had been running all those years. The slipping was reduced but still there if I got on it hard in 5th gear. I bought a new OEM spring and a new pack of friction plates, even though the ones I had just cleaned measured OK, I was thinking was ever was in the Yamaha lube had saturated he material on the friction plates, so best to change them. Did that and continued to use either Honda oil or Valvoline motor cycle oil for the next 56,000 miles I owned that bike, he clutch never slipped again even two up pulling a trailer in the Smokey Mountains. Long story short, never going to use Yamaha Lube in any thing I own ever! That is my story and I am sticking to it.

That is very odd, normally the Barnett pressure plate fixes the issue for good. I have seldom heard of Yamaha friction plates wearing out unless they were slipping badly for a long time or abused. One fellow that was over on Delphi, had a slipping clutch and then entered a slow race competition and smoked his friction plates really bad, that is about the only case I have heard of. I suspect this has been asked before, but are you certain the oil you are using or may have used in the past was suitable for a wet clutch? If the friction plates were exposed to an improper oil type they could have soaked up enough of the friction modifiers so as hey weak they continue to leach out those modifiers and cause slipping. Are you pulling a heavy trailer that is adding extra load on the clutch? Just for grins, you should mic the friction plates and the steels when you remove them, to see if they are out of spec, if they are then yes if the total height of the stack is short enough it will result in a slipping clutch , I would be very interested in hearing if the plates are out of spec or not. Good luck, and as MarCarl noted , best to change out all of them if you are in there doing the change.

Follow the tire manufacturer specs, the bike specs are for the OEM tires that come on the bike from the factory, normally those are Bridgestones. Not using the tire manufacturer specs , especially in the case of the Metzlers, is potentially related to the high failure rate that have been reported on those tires.

Ok so the same fuse that feeds the front running lights also powers the tail light, dash lights and head light. If those are working it is not the fuse, which I believe is labeled as the head light fuse. Could be the spring loaded contacts in the light socket are corroded and not making contact. What have you done to verify the bulbs are good? Have you tried a different set of bulbs , just for grins?

May be a new Venture coming one day, but will need to be one heck of a machine to get me off my Goldwing.

This has been a common problem with Meltzer's over the years, Meltzer will not stand behind their product and continually blame the user for improper inflation causing the issues.

If you have a 2001 Venture, then yes any 1999 to 2013 Venture motor will bolt right in, they made no changes to the Venture motor or the bike for that matter from 1999 to 2013. If you have a 2001 Royal Star then it can be done it has been done but takes a bit of doing.

I got tired of crawling under vehicles to change the oil, both the wife's Solara and my GMC Terrain you can access the oil filters from under the hood, so I bought one of those vacuum systems that sucks the oil out through the dipstick tube to see if it would work. Surprisingly enough it worked quite well , the one I have is a basket ball sized translucent white sphere with graduations on it, you can see the oil as it gathers inside and you can tell if you got all or most of it out by looking at the level. Works the best if the motor has been warmed up to get the oil flowing easy. Maybe not the best way to drain the oil out, but beats getting on the floor and crawling under or cleaning up a mess that I always seemed to make.

The link does not work, but found several videos on You Tube, saying you can revive car lead acid type batteries with a solution of distilled water and Epsom salts. I have not tried that , but I did revive a 24 volt lithium battery for a lawn trimmer that would not charge due to being extremely depleted, to the point where the charger would not recognize it. Just took a like battery that was charged, put jumper wires from the good battery to the bad battery for a few hours. Got just enough charge in it so the charger would see it and it charged back up after being on the charger for an hour or so.

Taz is correct, I was confused the other day when I answered the OP on the question, I was thinking he was asking about putting an older Gen 1 1300 cc motor into a Royal Star frame, that would be the same as putting in a V-Max motor where the heads are ported differently. It is possible to put a Royal Star Venture motor into a standard (96 to 01) Royal Star frame. Sorry for the confusion.

You can pull the filter and lose only the oil that is in the filter, very little will drain out when you pull the filter, I was in the habit of changing the filter on my Venture about every 3,000 miles when I was running synthetic oil and changing the oil every 6000 miles, I would change the filter about half thru the interval.

I would suggest BLACBIRD, as in SR71,

I am pretty sure the heads are different as to where the exhaust ports are located, older Gen I and V-Max heads on front cylinders exit forward instead of out the side, Dingy is doing a project where he is putting a V-Max prepped Gen I motor into a Gen II frame which is very similar to an original Royal Star frame. There is a gent in England that put a V-Max motor into a 96 Royal Star, very extensive mods required. Here is a link to a thread I started on his project. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?116625-Here-is-one-guy-s-answer-to-Yamaha-not-doing-what-they-should-have-in-the-first-place

Nothing a little duck tape won't fix.

OK so it would help if you told us what bike you have, this is in the 3rd gen forum, there is no 3rd gen yet. If you have a 96 to 2001 Royal Star, 1999 to 2013 Royal Star Venture or 2005 to 2010 Tour Deluxe the R/R is dead center of the motor, at the front just behind the bottom of the radiator, look for a black box with heat sink fins on it pretty much directly in front of the oil filter.

The white plug under the seat that Freebird is talking about, should have both connector halves , the male side has black rubber plugs in it to seal it. If you decide to use that connector shoot me a PM, I have spare seals and male pins for that style connector. As I recall it is only good for something like 5 amps or less, if you need it for something like heated gear, you will need to run a different circuit or use that circuit to operate a relay to control a higher amperage circuit. The front mic cable is probably stowed under the ignition surround, as previously noted, it comes from the factory attached to the tank just left of the tank bib , they use double sided tape to fasten it to the tank.

The passing lights on the original Royal Stars had a switch on one of the cans for the light, may you have some older ones some one installed, do the go on and off with the high beam / low beam of the head light. Many if not all factory set ups, turn the passing lights off when the high beams go on.

Like above I have never heard of any one using a GL shock on a Venture, with all the research that has been done by folks on this site and the Delphi sites, I would have expected this option to have come up long ago if it really could work. I also expect that you will find anything tagged for the GL to be very pricey. As far as the volume goes, I am with Freebird, check the controller display to see if the letters HS (Head Set) are displayed, if so you have the audio going to the head set cable. If that is what you find, turn the volume down to about 10 before you switch back to SP (speakers), or you will be buying new speakers, because at 30 I suspect you blow them out. Is you are SP setting and still have no volume, try splitting the fairing and cleaning and greasing the plugs with dielectric grease, could be dirt or corrosion causing a bad connection. Some where on the 2nd Gen tech section here there are copies of the tech bulletins from Yamaha on doing this and fixing certain audio problems.

Because the shock on the early Royal Stars mounts different Larry's adapter will not work on the early (Pre-Venture) Royal Stars. The best way is to make some sturdy wooden blocks about 1.5" thick or get some hockey pucks and put them on the lift arms of the jack where they will contact the bike frame, the one on the left front that will be very close to the kickstand will need to be notched out to fit around the side stand switch, if you do not do this you will likely crush the side stand switch.

If you do not get an answer in a timely manner, you can always pull one of the links off your bike and have the person doing the work measure the holes.