M61A1MECH

OK, I did some more research over on the Goldwing site and then reinspected my trailer and here is what I found. What I originally thought were solid cold rolled rods with turned down ends running fore and aft parallel to the main frame tube are actually hollow tubes with a long "pin" running down the center, the pins are what go though the frame supports and are welded in place. There are supposed to be bushings in each end to locate the pin and tube relative to each other. Looks like the bushings on the left side of my trailer disintegrated and that allowed the tube and wheel to flop around. Evidently the fix is to remove the welds and remove the "pin", replace the pin with a new one and install new bushings and weld the pin back in place. I need to talk with Bushtec on Tuesday to see if I can purchase the parts I need to do both sides, also want to know if it is possible to thread the ends of the pins and secure them with nuts instead of welding. That would make future replacements much easier.

Not at the spindle, but at the aft end of the trailer where there is an L bracket where both left and right torsion (sway) bays are anchored. I pulled it home today from Spartanburg, SC to Edgewater, FL, 490ish miles. Set my mirrors so I could see the trailer and the left wheel for any funny stuff starting, no issues, ran at interstate speeds and checked it at every stop. Tomorrow I will take the cargo box off and photograph the issue. If I have room to get tools in the space I think I have a fix worked out, but still want to talk to Bushtec first, but they are not open again until Tuesday. More to come.

On my way to WingDing I thought I heard some clunking frommy trailer, I did not see anything obvious and passed it off as the hitchclunking. Today when I stopped at Spartanburg, SC on the way home fromKnoxville, I grabbed the left wheel and it was "floppy", I found thetorsion bar is broken at the weld where it attaches to the frame. The trailerpulled fine all the way up to Knoxville and down here to Spartanburg, so now Ihave a couple of questions. 1) Has anyone else had this issue? If you did what did youdo to repair it? Looks like it could simply be welded back in place. 2) Any thoughts on how safe it is to tow this the 480 or somiles back home. Thanks for any thoughts and inputs.

So check out the read only technical section for the Royal Star Venture here on VR, here are two links for rear end maintenance. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?13263-Rear-Hub-Lubrication https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?1705-Rear-End-Noise-Yamaha-TSB. Same as TSB M2005-015 If you do not have a copy of TSB M2005-017 PM me and we can work out how I can send you a copy. Update: Sorry I just noticed that this thread is in the GEN 1 forum, not Gen 2, my bad, but TSB M2005-017 applies to all shaft driven models from Yamaha.

Steven G has very good advice there, many of the Ventures have been known to have Regulator/Rectifier failures, they tend to fail in a manner that over charges the battery and then bad things can happen. That happened on my 2007 Venture, boiled the battery, swelled up to where I almost could not remove it from the bike. Charging voltage should be around 13 to 14 volts as I recall, ay more or less is cause for concern.

That should work nicely, and they are using POSI-LOC products to make the connections.

So just wondering how you made out with this idea? One problem you may run into is what I ran into when I first started building light bars for the2nd Gen Ventures. I used the same 4 LEDs on either side of the center LED as brake and turn signals, problem was if you held the brake lever back or used the foot pedal the brake the lights stayed on constant, the brake did not allow the LEDs to go out when the turn signal cycled. I tried to compensate for that by adding some dropping resistors in the brake circuit just before the LED light bar, that way you still got the brake signal to the light bar but at slightly less than full brightness, when the brakes and turns were both applied the affected 4 LEDs would cycle from full bright (turn signal power on) to reduced brightness (brake power applied) so there was still a turn indication working.

If you do tap in to the wiring please use these types of taps, http://www.cycleterminal.com/posi-lock-connectors.html. Those wretched Scotch-lok blue crimp on pieces of **** should never be used in my opinion.

Prayers up from Florida, heal fast.

grubsie Here is an issue had on my 98 Tour Classic, one turn signal was flashing fast, when you watched with the lens on it "appeared " to be working but flashing fast. I swapped bulbs left to right and the issue followed the bulb. When I watched them flash with out the lens I saw that the running light filament on the suspect bulb was actually flashing not the turn signal segment. Evidently there was some sort of back feed and the running light filament was seeing the voltage meant for the turn signal, it must have had less resistance than the turn signal filament which caused the high flash rate, once I changed out the bulb all went back to normal and I never had any more problems. Just some food for thought

Here is a thread from the tech section that shows you how to mod the OEM flasher to work with LEDs. If you replace the flasher with an after market unit designed for LEDs you may loose the self cancel feature on the turn signals. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?128835-LED-Turn-Signal-Mod The other option is to install load resistors to fool the flasher into thinking the OEM bulbs are installed.

I was looking at the troubleshooting guide for the Venture last night after reading your post. Based on your experiment I believe the electrical portion of the switch is working correctly so I leaning towards a mechanical issue of some sort. What you have done so far is correct according to the manual. Once you had it clean it worked properly dry and outside of the bike. But once it was submerged in oil for a period of time it started acting up again. It sounds to me like the float portion of the switch maybe filling with oil and sinking after a period of time. You could try to duplicate this out side the bike using a bucket of oil and putting the switch in it see if it sinks or inspecting the float for a pin hole, that is if it is hollow float like in a carb or toilet tank. If it is solid float maybe it has just gotten old and it is sucking up oil like a sponge over a short period of time and sinking. I have not seen an oil level switch in person so much of this is a guess. Also look at the electrical connectors to be sure the wires are not damaged.

Yeah as soon as the wife is done with the computer, I am going to reboot the thing and start from there, browser cache is supposed to clear every time I exit IE, but who knows with Windows.

Now this is interesting, the issue is specific to my desktop computer, I just checked here on my laptop it works fine with IE 11, but my desktop does not allow me to enter text in the message area and the area above the message field does not have the three rows of edit icons. Like the page does not load completely. There is something not set up correctly on that desktop because I also noted the random images that appear on the first page I always open run in a vertical line and not a horizontal line, that started after the switch to https, so must be something goofy with my computer.

I recall from years ago that Quaker State has a high paraffin content and it was rumored that the paraffin was the source of sludge found in engines using Quaker State.

Yes not to bad, and I have the first posts in the member vendor section. I was not able to post the adds using Windows 10 with IE 11, I had to use GOOGLE to be able to enter text in the add, but got it done.

Plug and play trailer harness for 2nd gen Royal Star Ventures, can be configured for Tour DeLuxe for additional $5.00. Due ever increasing part prices, shipping costs, and lack of available inventory, I can no longer post a set price for my trailer adapters, they will be quoted based on current market conditions. Please contact me via PM or email for current pricing. This is a powered converter / Isolator, protects the bike circuits should the trailer short out and converts the bike's 5-wire system to a 4-wire system found on many trailers. No wire cutting or tapping required, fully plug and play. Lead-time is normally 7 to 10 days from time of order. To order just send a PM thru Venturerider or send me an email at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com. Tell me how you are going to pay and where to ship to; I will confirm your order by return mail. Payments can be made via PayPal at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com.

Plug and play trailer harness for 2nd gen Royal Star Ventures, can be configured for Tour DeLuxe for additional $5.00. Due ever increasing part prices, shipping costs, and lack of available inventory, I can no longer post a set price for my trailer adapters, they will be quoted based on current market conditions. Please contact me via PM or email for current pricing. This is a powered Isolator, protects the bike circuits should the trailer short out and carries the bike's 5-wire system to the trailer wire system found on many higher end trailers. No wire cutting or tapping required, fully plug and play. Lead-time is normally 7 to 10 days from time of order To order just send a PM thru Venturerider or send me an email at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com. Tell me how you are going to pay and where to ship to; I will confirm your order by return mail. Payments can be made via PayPal at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com.

This light bar will mount under the trunk of a GEN 2 ROYAL STAR VENTURE, just remove the plastic rivets on the helmet locks and bolt it up. Unit comes complete with plug and play wire harness that plugs in under the seat, spacers and mounting hardware. Available with red lens or clear lens, all LEDs shine red. It has five tag wires soldered to the main harness so you can add more lights or a trailer hook up. Price is $68.00 delivered in the lower 48 states, add $15.00 to ship to Canada. To order just send a PM thru Venturerider or send me an email at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com. Tell me how you are going to pay and where to ship to, I will confirm your order by return mail. Payments can be made via PayPal at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com.

Fits 2005 to 2010 TOUR DELUXE This is a patch harness that connects into the original taillight / brake light wire harness under the seat. If you do not want to splice into your factory harness, just connect this patch harness to the factory connectors and splice into the tag wires on the new harness. This harness is 8” long with 8” long tag wires. The tag wires are soldered to the aux harness. They let you butt splice in or connect with slip-ons if you want. The cost is $18.00 delivered in the lower 48, add $10.00 for shipping to Canada. Custom harnesses can be made, tell me what you need and I will see what I can do. Specials are priced according to the options requested. To order just PM me here or email me at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com, tell me how many and what your mailing address is. I will send the harnesses and an invoice and you can send a check to the address on the invoice. Payments can be made via PayPal at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com.

This is a patch harness that connects into the original taillight / brake light wire harness under the seat. If you do not want to splice into your factory harness, just connect this patch harness to the factory connectors and splice into the tag wires on the new harness. This harness is 8” long with 8” long tag wires. The tag wires are soldered to the aux harness. They let you butt splice in or connect with slip-ons if you want. The cost is $15.00 delivered in the lower 48 add $10.00 to ship to Canada. Custom harnesses can be made, tell me what you need and I will see what I can do. Specials are priced according to the options requested. To order PM me here or email me at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com, tell me how many and what your mailing address is. I will send the harnesses and an invoice and you can send a check to the address on the invoice. Payments can be made via PayPal, at stevemarilyn@hotmail.com.

So they are, I just looked at the new section, figuring the old one was gone, so much for assuming! Thanks

Any way to get a copy of what we had posted so we can easily duplicate the add in the new section?

Yes it was.

RedRider Thanks, but the bike has been pulled from Craig’s list, so I am sure it was sold to good of a deal to stay on the market very long.