M61A1MECH

grubsie Here is an issue had on my 98 Tour Classic, one turn signal was flashing fast, when you watched with the lens on it "appeared " to be working but flashing fast. I swapped bulbs left to right and the issue followed the bulb. When I watched them flash with out the lens I saw that the running light filament on the suspect bulb was actually flashing not the turn signal segment. Evidently there was some sort of back feed and the running light filament was seeing the voltage meant for the turn signal, it must have had less resistance than the turn signal filament which caused the high flash rate, once I changed out the bulb all went back to normal and I never had any more problems. Just some food for thought

Here is a thread from the tech section that shows you how to mod the OEM flasher to work with LEDs. If you replace the flasher with an after market unit designed for LEDs you may loose the self cancel feature on the turn signals. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?128835-LED-Turn-Signal-Mod The other option is to install load resistors to fool the flasher into thinking the OEM bulbs are installed.

I was looking at the troubleshooting guide for the Venture last night after reading your post. Based on your experiment I believe the electrical portion of the switch is working correctly so I leaning towards a mechanical issue of some sort. What you have done so far is correct according to the manual. Once you had it clean it worked properly dry and outside of the bike. But once it was submerged in oil for a period of time it started acting up again. It sounds to me like the float portion of the switch maybe filling with oil and sinking after a period of time. You could try to duplicate this out side the bike using a bucket of oil and putting the switch in it see if it sinks or inspecting the float for a pin hole, that is if it is hollow float like in a carb or toilet tank. If it is solid float maybe it has just gotten old and it is sucking up oil like a sponge over a short period of time and sinking. I have not seen an oil level switch in person so much of this is a guess. Also look at the electrical connectors to be sure the wires are not damaged.

Yeah as soon as the wife is done with the computer, I am going to reboot the thing and start from there, browser cache is supposed to clear every time I exit IE, but who knows with Windows.

Now this is interesting, the issue is specific to my desktop computer, I just checked here on my laptop it works fine with IE 11, but my desktop does not allow me to enter text in the message area and the area above the message field does not have the three rows of edit icons. Like the page does not load completely. There is something not set up correctly on that desktop because I also noted the random images that appear on the first page I always open run in a vertical line and not a horizontal line, that started after the switch to https, so must be something goofy with my computer.

I recall from years ago that Quaker State has a high paraffin content and it was rumored that the paraffin was the source of sludge found in engines using Quaker State.

Yes not to bad, and I have the first posts in the member vendor section. I was not able to post the adds using Windows 10 with IE 11, I had to use GOOGLE to be able to enter text in the add, but got it done.

So they are, I just looked at the new section, figuring the old one was gone, so much for assuming! Thanks

Any way to get a copy of what we had posted so we can easily duplicate the add in the new section?

Yes it was.

RedRider Thanks, but the bike has been pulled from Craig’s list, so I am sure it was sold to good of a deal to stay on the market very long.

David, Thanks, I have not been able to make contact with the seller yet, so if it does stretch out, I be in touch.

Shout out to any members in Phoenix. I found a 1999 Royal Star on Craig's List that I am interested in, I have reached out to the owner and would like to have some one lined up to look at the bike for me before I pull the trigger. Thanks so much Steve K

Thanks for the kind words, I am happy to do it any time for anybody, as long as I am able.

So here are two questions. 1) Does anyone know if the Venture motor drive shaft rotates clockwise or counterclockwise when viewed from the rear of the bike? 2) Does anyone know if an older Ford drive shaft rotate clockwise or counterclockwise when viewed from the rear of the vehicle? If the Venture output direction is opposite the Ford output direction, then mounting the differential upside down may make sense; but how do you check the fluid level, drain it or refill it if needed when the differential is upside down?

Remove one of the mufflers and measure the OD of the pipe coming off the "Y", I am pretty sure the pre Venture type Royal Stars had a smaller pipe going into the mufflers that do the 1999 Venture to 2013 Venture or the 2005 to 2010 Tour Deluxe. Although the motors for the Standard Royal Stars made from 1996 to 2001 (not including the Venture models) were similar to the newer Venture models, there are some significant differences, one I believe to be is the size of the exhaust pipes. I would hate yo see you get a muffler that has to large of an inlet for your "y" collector pipe.

I saw a post over on 1800GLRiders forum where one of the members had gone to Diamond R to have his new 2018 GL measured for an accessory, so I Googled Diamond R Accessories and found they have a Facebook presence, and are spinning their business back up. Their website is supposedly still under reconstruction and updating, so maybe there is hope they will be making Venture accessories again. Looks like they have switched to a CanAm so much of what their Facebook account is focused on is CanAm related. Google them and see for your self.

Also make sure the top of the battery is clean and dry, a film of dirt and oil on the top of a battery can connect the positive and negative terminals and create a slow drain on the battery and often times will get worse in damp wet conditions.

Another thing to check on second gen Ventures is the air intake system. On my 07 I would get a flat spot when accelerating after I installed K&N filters, felt like the bike was going to stall completely out, I had to adjust the needle shims out by one shim. I also made the mistake of opening up the air boxes to increase the air flow, again flat spot on hard acceleration, not as bad but bad enough that I replaced the modified air boxes with stock air boxes. So just something else to check.

The chrome covers sold by Yamaha that they had in their accessory catalog, required the use of K&N filters, the OEM filters would not fit with those chrome covers. Bobgobob is correct small changes to the Venture intake system can make big differences. On my 07 when I added the chrome covers with the K&N filters I started getting a flat spot when I would accelerate hard, felt like it would stall, had to shim the needle sliders out by one shim to correct the change in air / fuel change created by installing the K&Ns.

So why not get a longer bolt and a spacer to put under the head that the bolt goes thru and fits into the counterbore in the strut. Put a washer on the top of the spacer and land the lights on the washer, tighten the bolt.

Try here http://www.utpr.com/rsv.html I had a Utopia back rest on my Royal Star Tour Classic and my 2007 Venture and liked them very much.

Well yeah Polecats that short for Polish Cats right?

Yeah, those wretched slice and tap things are the maybe the worst idea I have seen for electrical taps, except that the blue ones that Bushtec used on my Venture were the motivation behind me developing my break out harness and my plug and play trailer harness set ups. One of the blue taps they used cut right through my tail light wire on my venture, so I had to find the connectors and contacts to make the repair, the rest is history , much of which is recorded here on Venture rider and shared with many who have bought my products. I agree you need to loose the slice in taps, problem is the wires may break if you remove them you may need to put on new bullet connector ends. I make single to double and single to triple bullet adapters that will connect directly to those bullet connectors in your head light bucket. Some folks have taken my breakout harness that goes under the seat and terminated their load resistors to the turn signal circuits off the break out and then fixed the resistors to a place on the seat pan or frame to help dissipate the heat, although I am not sure how warm those load resistors get on the turn signal circuits, the load is not constant when the signals are on and normally your turn signals are only on for less than a minute, unless you are sitting at light or stop sign waiting to turn , but even then it is not that long, not like they are on the whole time you are riding. curious experiment would be to turn a signal on while the headlight bucket is open and touch the load resistor body to see how warm it gets and how long it takes to get worm. Also somewhere on the second gen tech page there is a tutorial on modifying the OEM flasher to work with LEDs so you do not need the load resistors at all. I would be happy to help once you sort out what you want or need to do, it is pretty hard to give really good advice based on just a few photos. Eagerly waiting for the under the seat photos.

Took the words right out of my mouth.