M61A1MECH

Yup, had the same thought , especially after I tore the potting off of the bad one and found that the brains of the unit are only about as big as my thumb nail. Here is alink to a new one at a good price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Yamaha-1999-2013-Royal-Star-V-Star-YFZ-R6-WR-250-/351038461014?_trksid=p2054897.l5675

Received the voltage regulator/rectifier from Pinwall yesterday, installed it and checked the voltage while increasing the rpms, never went above 14 volts, little Kuryaken voltage indicator I got from JP Cycles showed green. Took her out today for about 25 miles, voltage indicator showed green the whole time, I think I got it.

Check out this post http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85574

go check out this post. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86420

I am not familiar with a Gen 1, but one time when I pulled my fuel pump, some how when I reinstalled it I managed to get the fuel lines crossed so it was trying to pump fuel back into the tank instead of to the carbs, you know the bike will not start when you do that, just saying check the simple stuff first.

So I got a new battery, all charged up, put it in the bike, put a volt meter across the battery terminals, and fired her up, started to rev it up and the volt meter read 16 volts. shut it off right there and pulled the regulator. Got a salvage one from Pinwall on order, should be in by Friday.

Came out of JP Cycles at destination Daytona this morning around 11 maybe and there was a an 07 Blue and Black just like mine sitting in the parking lot. Thought about taking her for spin, because the rider left his keys in the ignition, but decided not the best thing to do, so I just left him a business card.

That is exactly what we said, it was pretty scary listening to that thing sizzle and not knowing what it was going to do.

I have not heard back from him since I asked for his personal info and questioned what sort of contract would he draw up for me to review. If he does come back with more BS I may still jerk his chain a bit, before I turn him loose.

Yup, my thoughts and approach exactly, just hoping that Batteries Plus is open tomorrow (Memorial Day). I really like the cranking amps on this battery, It is possible that I fried the battery a few weeks ago, the fuel pump went out, I thought I had flooded it, and stupid me kept trying to start the bike until I killed the battery. Only after some time away from the bike did it dawn on me that it was the fuel pump. Amazing thing is , after the bike set for about 30 hours and I got fuel system working, the battery spun it right over and started like new. Just let the battery rest and it built up enough charge to start the bike, I doubt that a conventional lead acid battery would do that. Thanks

What would cause a battery to boil and swell up, I am thinking a bad voltage regulator. Pulled into the garage today after about a 200 mile run, and we her a sizzling noise coming from under the seat, I am thinking coolant overflow vent is dumping into the overflow bottle, but it did not stop. I pulled the seat and the noise is coming from the battery and it is so hot I can not touch it. During the ride the wife said she smelled something like rubber burning, I figured someone's car or tire was overheating and she was catching a whiff of it. I got the leads disconnected and grabbed a par of gloves and tried to pull the battery up out of the battery box, nothing doing it is not coming out. Took the left side passenger foot rest off and pulled the little rubber holder off that the main fuse or relay is in. Pulled the battery box and battery out as one piece, still unbelievably hot. Turned the battery box upside down and the battery came out, this is what I found. So I am thinking the voltage regulator maybe stopped regulating and cooked the battery? I would like to hear from those that know these things. Thanks

So I found a 2012 Goldwing on "FREE CLASSIFIEDS" listed in EL Dorado, AR, with 338 miles on it and for $7000.00. I inquire about it expecting that it is a typo on the price or something and this is what I get back. I have asked for more photos and some personal info, just to see what his response will be, but just sounds fishy, what does anyone else think?

I had the the same issue on my 98 TC with Bubs installed and pulling my Bushtec, the pipes faced straight back, the noise hits the trailer and echos back at you. On my Venture I have turn-out ends on my Krome Werks, still loud but not nearly as bad. So I am not sure if there is some way to add a 90 degree turn out end to the LAs with out destroying them, maybe some of those cheap and cheerful bolt on exhaust tipps you see in the auto parts stores could work as a temp fix. I reached out to celtichune, he is the Dallas area to see if he could be of any help while you are in Texas, but Dallas is a fair way from Houston.

Do you have a spare or can you borrow an igintion module from someone? Could be a bad module, maybe someone local to you has installed a DYNA 3K and has the stock unit laying around, not real hard to swap out.

Just a small exercise in paying it forward, you will have the opportunity to do the same for someone else in need soon enough. God Bless both of you.

Barry looks great, can't wait to see it in person, you good. I was looking a this blue 2012 http://www.cycletrader.com/listing/2012-Honda-Gold-Wing-Audio-Comfort-112267461 this weekend myself, but we just had to put a new roof on the house, so not a lot of spare cash laying around at the moment, so new bike will have to wait.

Bubba, first question is , how would he get the cap off if he does not have a key? Second, the number under the cap has nothing to do with the key code. The vin number will not get you a key code, if it did every car or bike would be fair game to all the crooks. Best bet is a good locksmith that can make a key or use a jiggler key to unlock the gas cap and then remove the guts and "read" the tumblers. Always have a spare some where or the key code written down, but he knows that lesson now.

see this post it is the same issue. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86055

see this post it is the same issue. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86055

check on this post, it is the same issue. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86055

Here are the bulletins I could find from a source I have. looks like the "I" basket is special order by the dealer thru area factory rep. Maybe Freebird or one of the moderators could get these added to the Gen 2 tech section.

As far as I know the official name for the blue used on the 07 was Galaxy Blue, that is what I always saw when Yamaha refered to it.

You can also check out my ad, here http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=4943&title=run-2fbrake-2fturn-light-bar-for-2nd-gen-venture&cat=35 I use the light bar from R&P Carriages also. Completely plug and play, you get additional tail lights, brake and turn signals. I am waiting for light bars to arrive, R&P had to replace last shipment because they were all damaged due to poor packaging from the manufacturer, I expect to have some in stock in a few days.

A standard factory geared Royal Star Venture with a Dyna 3K ignition module set on I think 3 will do 90 in third gear with no trouble, 100 to 110 in in 4th or 5th no problem. Two things, 1. These are typically noise bikes, the straight cut gears in the tranny make a lot of noise, but they last for ever. 2. It is possible that the bike you have has a V-Max rear end installed, the V-Max rear end is geared lower than the factory one for the Venture and may restrict the top end and also cause the engine to rev higher. I doubt that a V-Max rear end would limit you to 70 max. Chances are you just not used to the bike yet, give it some time.

Many times that type of problem stems from the fact that the first person to try and remove the screw used a standard Phillips cross-head screw driver, they do not fit the Japanese JIC type screws properly, the angles are different and you do not get a good enough bite especially if the the screw is tight. You could try getting a proper type screw driver at a local auto supply store or Sears, some times they will get into what is let sufficiently to let you get a good enough bite to get it out. Make sure you really bear down on the driver so it is less likely to slip again. Also try tapping on the screwdriver handle with a hammer while you are putting torque on the screw to loosen it, sometimes the shock of the hammer blows is enough to jar the screw loose. You can also try a hand impact driver those work, but on the handle bars you may find they are to "springy" to get the correct action required to make the impact driver work. Last resort would be to drill the head off and and wrench the stub out with vise grips or drill a hole in the screw and use an easy out.