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ragtop69gs

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Everything posted by ragtop69gs

  1. ragtop69gs
    I too noticed more valve train noise after my recent valve adjustment.
  2. ragtop69gs
    Safe ride , good luck getting your goal
  3. ragtop69gs
    Don't know if you fixed your lights yet. I had the same thing happen and found it to be the scotch lock wire connector that was the problem. I got rid of it and soldered the connection and installed a relay, now the passing lamps draw power from the battery and are brighter. Yamaha didn't include a relay with the install kit but should have. Without one you are powering the lamps with one 16 gauge wire. I have 55 watt sealed beams in my lamps.
  4. ragtop69gs
    Don't know if you fixed your lights yet. I had the same thing happen and found it to be the scotch lock wire connector that was the problem. I got rid of it and soldered the connection and installed a relay, now the passing lamps draw power from the battery and are brighter. Yamaha didn't include a relay with the install kit but should have. Without one you are powering the lamps with one 16 gauge wire. I have 55 watt sealed beams in my lamps.
  5. ragtop69gs
    One time bump
  6. ragtop69gs
    Here's what I do.
  7. ragtop69gs
    Here's what I do.
  8. ragtop69gs
    Turns out it was the scotch lock connector that was bad, it would pass voltage but with a load it failed. I am in the process of installing a relay, taking power from the battery for the lights.
  9. ragtop69gs
    My son is thinking about trading his truck for another truck that a guy in Wauconda, Il. has. Are there any Ventureriders that live near by and willing to take it for a ride. My son has a low rider mini truck and is thinking of trading it for a low rider '98 Chevy dually. I'm hoping there is someone close to Wauconda that could get a look at it for us. We just want to be sure it is actually there and runs and drives ok.
  10. ragtop69gs
    Your daughter is OK that's all that matters. The hardware can be replaced.
  11. ragtop69gs
  12. ragtop69gs
    I'll give it a shot
  13. ragtop69gs
    Mike, I have to have power to do your checks. Please re-read my original post # 1 especially where I plug the 2 lamp + leads back in. Why do I lose power as soon as I touch either lamp connector into the hot female side ? The fuse does not blow, but voltage drops to zero
  14. ragtop69gs
    I installed a new switch yesterday when I started on this. As I said the switch is new and inline with the hot side. The ground goes from the bulb to the light housing and that grounds thru the lightbar bolted to the fork. The lamps are sealed beam bulbs.
  15. ragtop69gs
    How's this one ?
  16. ragtop69gs
    PM sent to you. Both sides look the same.
  17. ragtop69gs
    When was this ? The conversion was done in December of 09. That's exactly what's happened to the rotors on the wife's trike.
  18. ragtop69gs
    I just got done replacing mine, they looked terrible but upon close inspection after removal none of the deepest and widest cracks were all the way through. I am glad I replaced them though, if only for piece of mind.
  19. ragtop69gs
    Carb sync and float levels were just done 3 weeks ago. Carbs are clean. It get seafoam every 3rd tank or so.
  20. ragtop69gs
    Done that 3 times and still the same outcome If I try it again expecting a different result, does that mean I'm insane? Seems kinda far fetched that both bulbs would burn out at the same time. I'll power each with jumpers from the battery just to be sure. Checking with a meter, all the wires and switch seem to be good There is no relay in the circuit yet, It's on the list.
  21. ragtop69gs
    After all this BS I rechecked the plug gap on the new plug and it was too small, re-gapped it to .035 and it seems to have been it ! The cylinder fires now and the pipe is getting hot, BUT, it doesn't heat up as fast as the other three ! What's up wit dat?
  22. ragtop69gs
    I went back and re-checked, pulled the plug cap, inserted a nail into the plug wire and have a good blue spark, replaced the cap, put a spark plug in it, again a good spark. Put cap back on plug in the cylinder and it still doesn't light the fire (cold exh. pipe)
  23. ragtop69gs
    I tried grounding the light bar, didn't help. I pulled each bullet connector (at both ends) and all were clean. I have voltage thru the switch up to the light lead connector when the positive leads to the lamps are disconnected, but not when they are plugged back in. When I plug either + lead in voltage drops to 0. I checked the ground continuity by placing one lead of the meter on the light buckets (thats where each bulb grounds) and the other on a motor mount bolt, that showed that I had ground. I even tried a jumper from the light bar to the battery ground.
  24. ragtop69gs
    I did, even put a new cap on the wire and cleaned the resistor and spring in the other caps.
  25. ragtop69gs
    It's actually quite easy to remove once the seats and trunk are off. There are only 4 bolts holding the body on.
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