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dug050

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Everything posted by dug050

  1. dug050
    Thanks for your replies. I have checked all the jets and everything looks clean. Just have to check the float heights and put everything back together. I will also be checking the valves and resyncing the carbs before Spring. Hope everyone has a Great Christmas!!! Doug
  2. dug050
    Just went to the Bike Bandit site and it looks like the jet sizes for the Royal Star are different from the RSV. It looks like all stock jets in mine. I would still appreciate comments on whether the carb not being seated properly could have caused the backfiring problem. Thanks Doug
  3. dug050
    I have a 1996 Royal Star that I bought two summers ago .The bike has always had an issue with backfiring from no.3 cylinder on cold startup and that pipe is slow to warm up. I thought it may be a bad coil but when I swapped two coils around the problem stayed on that same cylinder. The bike is away for the winter so I decided to pull the carbs and when I did I found that the no.3 carb was not seated properly into the boot. The boot was bent in on one side and likely causing a vacuum leak. This may have been the problem but I decided I would check the float levels and jets while I had the carbs off. The previous ower said he had rejetted when he installed a K&N filter and as far as I know that is the only mod he has done. It still has the stock pipes and no signs of any drilling of the baffles. I read the article about rejetting in the tech section and they changed the pilot jets to 17.5 from 15 and the main jets to 125,125,120 and 122.5. The pilot jets in mine are stamped R,followed by a square,20 and all the main jets are stamped R,followed by a square, 95. The bike always ran well but these jet sizes are different from anything I have read and I don`t know what the previous owner was trying to accomplish. Should I be changing these back to the stock sizes or at least the sizes shown in the tech article for optimum performance. Any comments would be appreciated. Doug
  4. dug050
    I would like to bump this post for some further discussion. Mellco, were you able to resolve this problem? I also have a 96 RS with a similar problem on cylinder #3. I am getting some backfiring on this cylinder on cold start up and the pipe does not warm up until it has run for several minutes. I hooked up my inductive timing light to this plug wire and it showed that it was not firing. I removed the plug cap and cleaned the corrosion, I also cleaned the spade connectors on the coil and installed a new sparkplug. This morning I did another cold start with the timing light connected and now have spark and the pipe heated up like the others but when I rev the engine the spark still becomes intermittent above 3000 rpm. I hooked the timing light up to cylinder #2 plug wire and get constant spark through full rpm's. Can anyone tell me if the TCI fires all 4 coils from one output, I assumed that the TCI was OK if the other plugs are firing properly, right or wrong? I plan on checking all the connectors and plugs from the coils back to the TCI since it seems like a bad connection could cause this, am I on the right track? Can a coil fail at certain RPM's and work OK at others? If cleaning all the connections doesn't solve the problem I will probably swap two coils and see if the problem moves. Any comments would be appreciated. Doug
  5. dug050
    I'm not familiar with autometer tachs but I did install an automotive tach on my 96 Royal Star by setting the tach on the 4 cylinder setting and connecting to two coils. To do this you have to build a simple adapter to read the pulses from the two coils. Because the coil fires twice per engine revolution, by hooking to two coils you get four pulses which should give you the proper readings on your tach set for a 4 cylinder. I can't guarantee that this will work with all brands of tachs but it worked well for me. Good luck Doug
  6. dug050
    Is it bottomed out or could it be seized from corrosion? You could spray it with some penetrating oil and see if it loosens up. You will know when you hook up your vacuum tubes if it is adjusted properly, maybe whoever did it previously has turned it in too far. Good luck Doug
  7. dug050
    This is the set up on my 96 Royal Star, I imagine it is the same on your bike. If the attachment doesn't open let me know and I will e-mail it to you directly. Doug
  8. dug050
    I had a similar problem with my voltmeter reading low but 13.8 volts when measured at the battery. I tried connecting at the fusebox but still had the same results. I ended up connecting directly to the battery through a 12volt relay that is activated by the ignition switch and now get accurate readings. I'm not sure what the problem is but this hook-up solved my problem. Doug
  9. dug050
    I would be returning the compressor for replacement or refund. The only way a compressor will use oil, assuming there are no leaks, is for the oil to be getting past the rings and going into the air tank. I would think that if the compressor is going through that much oil you would get a lot of milky liquid (mixture of oil and water)coming out of the tank if you open the draincock. The air coming out of your airline will be contaminated with oil so it could not be used for any applications requiring clean air ie. painting, sandblasting... If you run the air through a drier the desicant material will be also contaminated very quickly. Just my 2 cents worth but as Goose stated, a new compressor should not be using oil. Doug
  10. dug050
    I tried the link and it didn't come up, I'll try this way. Doug
  11. dug050
    The diagram for the dapter is at www.gadgetjq.com/TachAdapter.pdf . Real easy to make and parts can be picked up at Radio Shack. If link doesn't work, e-mail me and I'll forward a copy. Doug
  12. dug050
    I have always had a friend use a magnetic pick-up tool to hold the yoke up while I inserted the driveshaft. If you are working alone or don't have any friends, I made up this simple tool that worked well. My pick-up tool has a threaded end and interchangeable magnets, put a nut and a magnet on a bolt, pick up the yoke and adjust the nut to centre the yoke in the tube and put the driveshaft in. Maybe I was lucky but worked first time. I know you can use a piece of wire to do the same thing but this made it easy to centre the yoke. Just thought I'd pass this on for what it's worth. Doug
  13. dug050
    The tach is from Princess Auto (I'm not sure if they are in the USA), it is sold under their Powerfist label, #8005752, but it says Trisco on the tach. I imagine these are sold under other brand names at other stores. Their website is www.princessauto.com and you can order on-line or toll free 1-800-665-8685. The tach is mounted on the handlebar. I have a milling machine and the mount is homemade out of aluminum stock. It took a couple of hours to make with my basic equipment, no CNC machines in my basement, but worked out fine.
  14. dug050
    I'd start by pulling the sparkplugs and comparing the way they are burning, is one side black from a rich condition? Also check the pipes at idle at start up and see if they get hot at the same rate,if they do your pilot screws are set OK and you may need to shim the main needle. If your plugs all look the same it may be just the way the airflow is around the engine but it seems odd that you can keep your hand on the pipes after that long a ride. I don't own a RSV but I'm sure others will comment. Ride safe Doug
  15. dug050
    It should be fine in the rain, the only opening in the case is the 4-6-8 cylinder switch on the back which I sealed with clear silicone. It also is protected behind the windshield when moving. I haven't ridden in the rain yet but don't expect any problem but a ziplock bag in the saddlebag may be good insurance. Doug
  16. dug050
    I posted before about installing the 2" Equus gauges on my Royal Star. Well I found a 2" tachometer that matches the other gauges very closely. I got it at Princess Auto on sale for $20, regular price is $35, so the price is right. It is a car tach but works great if you build the adapter harness shown on this site. There are about six different backlight colours that can be changed by pressing a button. The adapter harness is very easy and cheap to make and allows the use of car tachometers which are much cheaper than most motorcycle tachs, at least in Canada. Ride safe Doug
  17. dug050
    Electrical problems are a PITA and not my strong point but a few comments. The voltage regulator is also a rectifier converting the AC voltage from the stator to DC voltage to run our electrical system and charge the battery. I may be wrong but I think the test done on the RR with an ohm meter only tests the rectifier part by checking the diodes, the only real test of the regulator is checking at the battery for charging voltage. Usually when the regulator fails you get an over-charge situation which fries the battery and lights. An undercharge, from my experience, is usually a failing stator but if this has tested OK I would be looking for a bad ground. Bad grounds can make some really weird things happen which may result in the burnt ground pin in your plug and the erratic readings on your voltmeter. As George stated, a ground may show good with an ohm meter because of the low voltage of your test meter but may fail under actual charging voltage. If the RR proves to be OK and it is bad connectors in the plug you could eliminate the plug and hard solder the wires the same as many have done on the stator connector. May make replacing the RR a little more difficult in the future but would be cheaper than replacing the wire harness. Good luck Doug
  18. dug050
    Hey Randy, looks really good!!!!! and they work to boot. You will enjoy having the gauges, only problem is, if you are like me, I'm so busy watching my new gauges that I sometimes forget to watch the speedometer. Ride safe Doug
  19. dug050
    Hi Randy, the post from donphantasmo is not accurate for the RSV because of the type of ignition they have. On cars with distributors and a single coil the tach was hooked to the negative post of the coil. The distributor fired the coil once for each cylinder and you set the switch on the back of your tach for the number of cylinders in your engine to get the correct reading. As you read in the post I referred to you, RSV ignitions do not work like this, stick with the procedure they gave and you will be successful. I'm sure others will confirm this. I have never seen a tach hooked to the positive side of a coil, all you have there is the 12 volts the battery supplies to the coils through the ignition switch. Doug
  20. dug050
    Hi Randy, there has been several threads on this site about connecting a car tach to the RSV. The problem is the RSV ignition system is not like a 4 cylinder car, it has 4 individual coils, one for each cylinder. If you just connect to one coil you should only read 1/4 of the actual RPMs but because the system is a wasted spark design (also fires the plug on the exhaust stroke) by hooking to one coil you will read 1/2 the actual RPMs. If you go to Tech Talk>General Tech Talk>Sun Super Tach II, there is a good thread where they work through this problem. You have to use an adapter. It sounds to me that you have the wires hooked up properly and should at least be seeing a reading of 1/2 RPMs, if not you may have the green wire hooked to the positve post of the coil. I have a Royal Star which is not quite the same as your RSV and the negative post is on the bottom. I believe the bike shown in the post I mentioned is the same as yours and should resolve your problem. Good luck, post some pictures. Doug
  21. dug050
    I'm glad everything is working for you now, sounds like you have my luck, if there are a hundred items on the shelf I'll get the one that doesn't work. You should find that as the weather warms up your temperature gauge will respond faster. Right now, unless your bike is stored in a heated garage, the coolant and all the metal in the engine is the same temperature as the surrounding air. If your Equus gauges are the same as mine they don't start to register until the temperature reaches 130 degrees so it takes quite a while for the coolant to reach that temperature. If, after the weather gets warmer, it still takes a long time I would check to see if the thermostat is working properly (not stuck open). I only mention this because 20 minutes at a high idle seems a little long to me, even at 6 degrees. I bought a used vehicle one time that the previous owner had taken the thermostat right out, OK for summer but not much heat in the winter. I'm old enough to remember when we would install a hotter thermostat in the car for winter driving to help the engine warm up faster and provide more heat but this is not required on the new vehicles since most of them use a 190 degree thermostat. Enjoy the riding season!!! Doug
  22. dug050
    No, it should be fine, assuming your gauge is not defective the only place they can leak is at the fittings. You will know as soon as you start the engine, the pressure should register as soon as it starts. If it doesn't work I would disconnect the oil line from the gauge and blow the oil back down the tube and try again. If you have to disconnect the line have a good look at the compression fitting, sometimes they don't reseal properly if you try to re-use them. Doug
  23. dug050
    I don't profess to be an expert but I have been following this post and just thought I would make a few comments. You should not have to bleed the air out of the line on a mechanical oil pressure gauge. When the gauge is installed it is a closed system and the only leak you can have is if the fitting connections are not sealed. The gauge has a hollow tube in the shape of a spring that extends and shortens as the pressure changes. The spring has a mechanical connection that moves the needle as it changes length . The column of air in the tube will be compressed until it equals the pressure of the oil pushing it (hope that makes sense) As long as there is oil going into the tube everything should work. By bleeding the air out it is the oil applying the pressure to the spring, if you don't bleed it, the air applies the pressure. As the oil pressure increases the level of the oil should rise up the tube until the oil pressure and air pressure equalize and drop back down as it decreases. I build model steam engines and we intentionally loop the tube to the pressure gauge on the boilers so the boiling water does not go into the pressure gauge. Just my 2 cents... Doug
  24. dug050
    Thanks Ponch, I'll be checking that out. Doug
  25. dug050
    Thanks for the kind comments, I was pleased with the results. I never liked just having the idiot lights. Equus does not make a 2" tachometer or I would probably have put it in place of the oil pressure gauge. The smallest one they make that matches these gauges is 3 5/8" and I couldn't decide on a place to mount it that I liked the look of, will work on that. I really only need a tach to do tune-up work so it's not essential that it is mounted on the bike, but it sure would look good. Doug
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