straycatt

Great Ceasers Ghost, I thought $30 to mount/balance at a local indy shop was expensive. I spooned on my new E3 front tire and balanced it, yesterday. $132 for the tire from Motorcycle Superstore and a couple of hours of my time to mount. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/20130511_143150.jpg

Allow me to relate a totally fictional story that has no basis in reality and involves no real person... Being as how many people own multiple trailers (snowmobile/boat/motorcycle/etc) and you can only tow one at a time, there may be people out there whom get a trailer with a "home built" registration. Then they can use one plate on all their trailers and have a resaonable argument that that plate belongs to any trailer that they own as they "rebuilt and reregistered" it themselves, as the registration card doesn't tie to any one trailer. At least that's a story I heard....

I can't speak to longevity, yet, but I picked up this 2008 with 8900 miles on the clock last fall for $2500. Be aware, the KLR is TALL. No big deal to throw on shorter suspension links, but good to know just the same. There is gobs of mods and aftermarket farkle for the KLR. Also, the big Kwacker is a complete dog power wise. I just went down one tooth on the counter shaft sprocket, and I can just barely get the front wheel off the ground with a throttle roll on in 1st and 2nd. Couldn't get the front off the ground at all with the stock gearing. Still, seems to be a good scooter for around town and light off road work. It is a ball to ride, especially after riding the RSV road sofa. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/klr3-2013004.jpg

According to Deka (East Penn) there is more to charging a VRLA (Valve Regulated Lead Acid) battery than just xx number of amps. Temperature, and degree of charge have a lot to do with it as well. From the Deka website, everything you could possibly want to know about VRLA (AGM) batteries. http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0139.pdf There's lots more, but here is a taste... How do VRLA batteries recharge? Are there any special precautions? While our VRLA batteries accept a charge extremely well due to their low internal resistance, any battery will be damaged by continual under- or overcharging. Capacity is reduced and life is shortened. Overcharging is especially harmful to any VRLA battery because of the sealed design. Overcharging dries out the electrolyte by driving the oxygen and hydrogen out of the battery through the pressure relief valves. Performance and life are reduced. If a battery is continually undercharged, a power-robbing layer of sulfate will build up on the positive plate, which acts as a barrier to recharging. Premature plate shedding can also occur. Performance is reduced and life is shortened. Therefore, it is critical that a charger be used that limits voltage. The charger must be temperature-compensated to prevent underor overcharging due to ambient temperature changes. (See Charging Voltage vs. Ambient Temperature chart on page 11.) Important Charging Instructions The warranty is void if improperly charged. Use a good constant potential, temperature-compensated, voltage-regulated charger. Constant current chargers should never be used on VRLA batteries. How critical is recharge voltage? Why are all VRLA batteries so charge sensitive? All lead-acid batteries give off hydrogen from the negative plate and oxygen from the positive plate during charging. VRLA batteries have pressure-sensitive valves. Without the ability to retain pressure within the cells, hydrogen and oxygen would be lost to the atmosphere, eventually drying out the electrolyte and separators. Voltage is electrical pressure. Charge (ampere-hours) is a quantity of electricity. Current (amperes) is electrical flow (charging speed). A battery can only store a certain quantity of electricity. The closer it gets to being fully charged, the slower it must be charged. Temperature also affects charging. If the right pressure (voltage) is used for the temperature, a battery will accept charge at its ideal rate. If too much pressure is used, charge will be forced through the battery faster than it can be stored. Reactions other than the charging reaction occur to transport this current through the battery—mainly gassing. Hydrogen and oxygen are given off faster than the recombination reaction. This raises the pressure until the pressure relief valve opens. The gas lost cannot be replaced. Any VRLA battery will dry out and fail prematurely if it experiences excessive overcharge. Note: It is the pressure (voltage) that initiates this problem— a battery can be “over-charged” (damaged by too much voltage) even though it is not fully “charged.” This is why charging voltage must be carefully regulated and temperature compensated to the values on page 11.

Tri-StateBattery.com http://www.tristatebattery.com/etx20l-deka-powersport-battery-p-981.html Deka (East Penn) ETX20L. No core trade in, free shipping, $81.95 I bought a new VRLA (AGM) battery for my KLR a month ago from these guys...best price around, and excellent communication. Took exactly one week to get.

I bought mine from Partshark last year. They list it currently for $458.19.... http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=1755554&category=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2011&fveh=51690

I did the re-fi on the HARP program with Citi a year ago. There was no down side. It's bacially free money. I dropped my payment by $180 and there were NO fees. I give it :thumbsup2:

I second this, but would say 1 year minimum solo before even considering hauling a passenger. When you carry someone with you, anything and everything that happens to them is the pilots responsibility. I think you're going to need some time with this bike, before you're comfortable. I can't imagine choosing a Venture as a first bike to ride after 25 years of not riding. The Venture has to be one of, if not the most difficult big motorcycle to ride (especially two up) The slow speed handling of the Venture is....less than friendly. It's ponderous, slow to react with all of that handle bar weight, and way top heavy. Don't misunderstand, with some seat time the RSV can be a very capable ride. But you have to stay on top of it. Once you get it moving down the Highway, it's a joy to be on. Around town for a less than seasoned rider.....maybe not so much.

I haven't dropped a street motorcycle in at least 20some years over 5 different bikes. Dirt bikes are a whole 'nother story, and I did lay the Venture down just to see if I could pick it up. I don't care what anybody says.....it ain't easy. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/sidebike2011004.jpg

Tomorrow evening??? I thought it was next weekend, the 12th....or, I mean ya, ya, see you tomorrow. Hang in there Karl, that kid is going to be around for a while. The time will come, just get healthy.

Positive thoughts headed your way, Karl.

Put me down as a defninte possibility of a firm maybe....

I knew there was a reason I haven't thrown that blown shock in the trash yet. lol

Here ya go, Gary. Looks to be exactly (or very close to) 10" c x c. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ventureshock001.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ventureshock002.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ventureshock003.jpg

I went in from the right side, as well... http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/shockchange004.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/shockchange002.jpg

Your bike is very nice....lots of farkle, good mileage, etc, etc. The price is right in the middle of low and average NADA retail numbers. But.... This is late fall, and few riders (even if they're looking) are buying motorcycles. The economy in Michigan is still in the crapper and there are gobs of motorcycles for sale. I've been looking for a KLR 650 for the past year or so. There have been lots of KLR's for sale but nothing that really was a must have. Last weekend I happened across an old ad on CL and I was bored so I rode out to look at it just for fun. This bike is an 08 and NADA showed $3200 to $4300 retail. This guy originally wanted $3700 and had come down to $3000.....while I was there he came down to $2900. I offered $2500, and with only some hesitation, he took it. This wasn't a must sell, but the seller knew that if he didn't take my offer he was going to sit on this thing and still be trying to sell it again in the spring. My point is, if it is a "must sell" you probably will have to give it away. Anyone buying a motorcycle right now is expecting to steal it. I would NOT have given even $2800 for my KLR. Sellers don't set the price, buyers do. Any seller that is not willing to drop his price until his stuff finally sells, is likely going to have it for a while. Yes, eventually some buyer may come along and take your first asking price, but how long are you willing to wait?

This is what I have.... http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/forkwork002.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/forkwork003.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/forkwork004.jpg

In my thoughts....

I haven't dropped mine, but I did lay it down in the back yard just to see how hard it would be to pick up. I'm 6'1" 225#, and while it was very doable with the "butt in the seat" method.....it wasn't easy. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/sidebike2011004.jpg

The wife has a trip planned to go to some drive through animal safari type place in Port Clinton, Ohio. My daughter and her brood will drive down and the wife and I will take the scooter. We are looking for a decent (read good, but not break the bank good) hotel to stay at the Friday night before and/or maybe Saturday night as well. We'd like to be on the lake, but realize that may be too expensive. Maybe even some place between Toledo and Port Clinton. Anyone familiar with this area that can make any suggestions? Thanks...

I just put a new factory shock on the back of my 2000, a few weeks ago. I needed the air adjustability of the factory unit. Got mine form Partshark for $435 plus $25 (or real close to that) shipping. Handles like a dream again.

Hmm, very interesting. I did think about just swapping the old clyinder to the new switch. It's held on by just two phillips head screws, but my old cylinder is so worn and sticky it's probably not long for this world either. I'm definetly going to do more research on the rekey issue. Though at this point the dual key setup doesn't seem like it's going to be a real big hardship. lol

I talked to two different lock smiths and they both said the same thing. Neither the ignition switch or the luggage/gas cap could be rekeyed. I now have to deal with two keys as well. In order to tell them apart I left the triangle plastic head on the ignition key, and broke the plastic off of the luggage/gas key. No mistaking them now. The lock smith made me a third spare key, so I have the one I carry, a spare hidden on the bike, and one in my work bench. It cost me a whole $4.50. ou'd think for as much as the new ignition switch cost, they'd give you 5 or 6 keys. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange022.jpg

I replaced a faulty ignition switch today, and while there is plenty of info on the forum on how to do it, I wanted to share how I dealt with the tamper proof bolts that hold the switch to the frame. There is no "head" to get a tool onto these bolts, so many guys use a dremel or die grinder to cut slots into the head so they can remove the bolts with a screw driver. Another option is to just drill out the bolt and then remove the remaining bolt after the switch has been removed. I decided that since I didn't need to salvage the switch or the housing (it was already broke) it wouldn't hurt to break it more. I used a small sharp chisel to break part of the switch base so I could get at the recessed bolt heads. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange014.jpg Then I used the chisel to tap into the side of the bolthead, making a gouge for the tool to bite into and loosening the bolt. It was just a matter of a couple of revolutions and I could turn it the rest of the way by hand. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange015.jpg http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange018.jpg I replaced the factory bolts with a couple of metric allen head bolts from my collection and I'm good to go. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange021.jpg Total time, start to finish to replace the switch.....1 hour, give or take.

Rev. Jessie Jackson was in Flint less than two weeks ago. He had his little pep rally and then he beat feet out of Dodge City.