Jump to content

Condor

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    12,680
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Everything posted by Condor

  1. That's cool as all get out.....
  2. This is frustrating as all h3ll.... If you have fluid in the bore of the cylinder in front of the piston cup, and it's installed properly, and you pull the lever, fluid will come out the bottom master hole with the line removed. The only way nothing will come out is if there's nothing in there. I assume you tried forcing fluid up through the calipers and it came out into the reserve along with any air, and if that's the case it will work. I just got through bleeding the front calipers of my '99 and it took about 15 minutes from empty lines to seated pads, and that's with out reversing anything and with Speed-Bleeders. I don't know what else to suggest that might help at this time.... :confused07: Ya got me pardner....
  3. Sorry, money's already been spent on beer....
  4. Now I'm starting to wonder if you bought the correct rebuild kit. When sliding the cup into the cylinder it takes a little 'shoe horning' to get it into the barrel.??? If it slips in fairly easily the cup may be undersized and not making good contact with the cylinder wall...
  5. I get that here and on another board probably using the same programing.... I just ignore it.....
  6. Prayers sent Dan. Sounds like she's contacted a blood infection called Sepsis. My wife came down with it about 2 months ago and she's still dealing with it. It can be quite serious if not taken care of quickly....
  7. Check out this write up about half way thru it deals with seating the Barnet plate....
  8. Yeah.... You have problems somewhere in the master. When you insert the plunger and cup in the barrel did you have to kinda work to get the cup into it?? Also what's the opening at the base of the barrel look like. Sometimes they can get plugged up with crystals. Usually a good blowing out with compressed air will do the trick. Anyway somewhere in the master you have a problem. Tomorrow...since you taking today off.. .... try removing the banjo bolt completely, make sure you have fluid in the reserve...'bout half full... and try pumping the lever with your finger over the banjo hole, and while you have the banjo bolt out check the bolt passage for crud.... BTW attached is are pics of a tool I made to get that c-clip out. Also what makes things easier getting it out is to compress the piston into the cylinder and stick a small screw driver, pick, piece or wood, etc through the feeder hole at the base of the reserve to keep it out of the way when dealing with the clip... which can be a real PITA....
  9. OK, From what I gather from your previous posts is the brake lines are full of airless fluid, the reserve is half full, and the cup is in correctly, your not runing Speed Bleeders, and you don't get any pressure build up or flow when pumping the lever and the caliper valves are closed. Try cracking the banjo at the master and pull back on the lever. Are you getting any fluid leaking out? If not, the problem is in the master, if you are the new lines are suspect. Also if the pistons are pushed back into the caliper you won't get any pressure build up until the pistons actually seat against the rotor.... just a thought.... Let us know what you come up with.. Bleeding proceedure should be the same as any other brake....
  10. Baker Wings.... Stay out of cross winds...
  11. Correct. You might want to check it even if you think you did it right. The only way you wouldn't get any flow or pressure build up is if the thing is on backwards. I almost did the same thing the first time I rebuilt a brake master. Oh yeah.... another way is if you left the bleeder valve out of the caliper..... Just jokin'...
  12. The rim of the cup goes into the barrel first. Bottom toward the lever....
  13. I'm pretty sure I read about this problem a couple of years ago. Maybe it was Squid's post???
  14. When you rebuilt the master which directiion did you install the cup?? If it's on backwards you won't get any pressure.....
  15. Yeah, we have a few around here that will do that too if you bring them the tires off the bike. I figured for the extra 50-60 bucks it was worth not having to mess with it.
  16. Man inflation has taken over big time.... Mine was $39.95 about 3 years ago.... Works fine by the way....
  17. I've never found a dealer that will come close to the prices that can be found on the internet. Try JakeWilson they've been pretty competive. There's a couple of others. I'll let others chime in with those. My local Yamaha dealer will mount tires on the bike for about $100. Ride it in, go have breakfast, ride it out.
  18. I'd just make sure that the eBay units are returnable... not DOA. Finding something new is going to be near impossible. Another thought is to replace the complete control with a slider. The only year they made that type was in '84. They went back to the slider in 85 and stayed with it until '93. You may have to replace the choke cable with a later model but I can't see it being all that much of a problem...
  19. Mike I just sent you a PM that may help....
  20. Hi Squeeze. The lip of the clutch master cup only retracts far enough to expose the expansion hole in the master barrel. The feed hole remains behind the lip of the cup. In the past when ever I've had air come out that hole it came out very slowly, and in little strings of micro bubbles. Now I can understand undoing the lever and letting it sit for an hour or so, but everyone that gives advice on the tied lever 'trick' never mentions this. The air just doesn't disappear magically... The first thing the person will do after releasing is pull the lever to test the clutch. A little of the air will spurt out, but a lot of it will go back down into the line. If the clutch is allowed to sit over night without the lever being pulled back, in the morning there will only be fluid in the barrel. The point I'm trying to make is the same thing would happen leaving the master sit overnight without tying the lever to the grip. Sorry to be stuburn about this, but I put the tied clutch lever in the same catagory as the Jason Mod....
  21. I don't know nuttin'.... What happened to the Busa??
  22. Just keep a close eye on the sidewalls. If they're going to crack it happens fairly soon. I know what you mean about the handling. Loved every mile I put on my set, just couldn't put up with the cracks.... Keep the psi at max sidewall pressure...
  23. Anyone still have a good condition final and shock laying around after triking their bike that they haven't found a new home for yet?? I'd be interested in adopting it..
  24. That would be interesting. I have a couple of extra sets of 2gen fins. Maybe at least hold them up to the head to see if there's a possibility??? Don't think drilling is an option, but maybe someway to attach them to the existing side cover plates, and dummy fill the 2ndGen holes??? It may be more trouble that it's worth??? That also gets me to thinkin'... I wonder if the chrome bling from a2Gen valve cover would fit a 1stgen?? The gaskets are the same....??
×
×
  • Create New...