Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'water'.
-
Let me start off by saying I'm having a great time. The riding has been spectacular even today when I rode in 3 hours of rain. This being Independance Day long weekend, I have had my challeges getting a camping spot but it always worked out. Night two I was deperite after getting turned away from two camp sites. I saw a farm house that was storing trailers. So I did a door knock and introduced myself and asked if I could camp by the trailers. The man said sure and called his wife who said I could even use his shower outside in his workshop for $15. I thanked them very much and set up camp. I did have to clean the shower as I don't think it had been used in over 5 years. Cob webs and moths all over, but it worked great. So here is my story of my fourth night camping at a KOA in Goodland Kansas. Let me first say that this is a very clean and well kept facility. Well this is earlier then I would like to wake up without an alarm. Real bad storm. A few times I thought the wind was either going to lift the tent off the ground or break it into pieces. I was awake when I heard noises and people at 1am. I didn't know what they where doing. My pee jug was getting full from my second time. I cautiously open the tent a little to dump it out and the ground was covered in water. Only about an inch. The people that I heard where other tenters that got flooded or their tent torn apart. They got in their truck and spinning tires to get out. I laid in bed not able to go back to sleep. The rain was so hard but the tent was doing well. The wind was what concerned me. I was afraid the tent would get damaged and I wouldn't be able to close it. There goes the next 3.5 weeks I was thinking. My mind wasn't stopping should I cut my losses or tuff it out. A lull in the weather happened. *Good time to break camp I thought. Don't be a chicken I thought. So there I laid. The storm picked up again, eaqually as bad. I checked outside by unzipping the door a few inches. Now there was 2 inches of water all over the ground. It kept comming down and blowing so hard that I thought I may damage the tent trying to put it away. At 2:15am I checked outside and there was almost 3 inches of rain water on the ground. That was it, only an inch or two more and my changing area will be under water. I started to pack things up inside the trailer so when there was a lull in the weather I would be ready to spring into action. I made a mental list of what I needed to do outside to close the tent quickly and without damaging it. There I sat bed deflated belongings packed away and waiting. 2:30, the rain slowed right down and wind wasn't so strong and gusty. Like a lion saving their cubs I was out and moving. Lucky I had my boots the trailer skirting was all under water. The gravel road was covered. No hesitation I had to act to get this tent down and closed before another wind gust would come and rip it out of my hand. I kept seeing flash news reports of times past of bad things happening in trailer parks. Everything went smooth. The tent got put away safely. I put the cargo carrier on the picknic table as the water drains thru. What a relief. I may be a chicken and over reacted, but I kept thinking it could get worse and then where would I be. It's only sleep I'm missing out on by packing up. If the weather breaks in the morning I'll set it back up to dry and sleep. If I have to stay another night that's ok too. My tent us not broken. I'm a happy camper. I'll up date you all in the morning. Dave Sent from my iPhone
-
I have a 1993 GMC 1500 that I am restoring my ? is I replaced the ac compressor and dryer with all new o-rings and it works great but I get a drip of water running on the passenger side floor any idea what is causing this?
-
My wife had a triathlon today. I was out riding the bike course while the swim was going on and came across a 30 foot wide across both lanes except for a foot of what I thought was water. 99 out of 100 times I just would have ridden across, but something made me stop and get off and make sure it was water. Appears someone was angry about the race and dumped oil across both lanes of traffic. It completely covered the asphalt. The bikes were going to be coming in about 10 minutes with motorcycle escorts. Even worse it was on a curve. I'll spare you all the details of what happened but was able to keep any bikers or bicyles from going down though. Have to tell you, it had me shook. I consider myself to be a very safety conscious biker, wear full gear and always thinking safety, but this came out of nowhere. How do you prepare for this. Makes me wonder about being on the farm roads and coming across a truck failure that dumped a bunch of oil on the road. I have a hard time believing that I would have had a chance to keep the bike upright going across that oil. Don't think I could have done it even if it was straight. I get taking certain risk, but this was one I had not planned on that has me a little shook. Was curious if anybody has taken their bike across a serious oil stretch and what happened.
-
So after a few years of riding with a nice bag that slides over a backrest, I now need something to fit nicely on the rack of the tourpak. I think something similar to a longer narrow type of duffel would work. Anyone got any good suggestions for a bag that is or can be made water proof?
-
I have noticed when changing my final drive oil that it has been milky, is this normal for these bikes? The last 2 rides have been almost nothing but hard rain for at least 100 miles. Just wondering if there is a bad seal or is this normal, I have no oil leaking, but I know water will get anywhere.
-
I was in the cafeteria at work today. I normally go there late so it is quiet and calm with not many people around. On the other side of the room I could overhear a conversation between one of the cafeteria managers and a customer. I was not paying close enough attention till I was snapped to attention by the comment "by the end of this year the oil in the gulf will have flowed up the Mississippi and be contaminating the shores in Wisconsin". Too which I could only think WTF!!! They then morphed the conversation to the FACT that rivers can only flow south. It is "impossible" for water to naturally flow North. On my way out the door after I finished my lunch I mentioned to the manager that water will always flow down hill regardless of which direction that is. Water does not know how to read a compass. At that same time as I mentioned this there was another customer that walked in and got all over me, because it is a FACT that water can only flow from north to south. At which point I had to RUN FOR MY LIFE. I did not post this in Jokes and Humor cuz it really did just happen!! I thought that I had a pretty good handle on this gravity thing and how it relates to water. Or am I all wet and therefore doomed to be headed south. I'm scared now. Hiding in my office with all of the lights off. OK flame suit on,,,,,,,,,or should I be wearing a wet suit.
-
Mr Clean Auto Dry Car wash is absolutely wonderful , I have to admit that I was very skeptical about this product, I give it a 10 out of 10 (Awesome) [ATTACH]44410[/ATTACH] First of all our water here in Iowa is extremely hard and you folks know what happens to chrome and the paint job if your not fast enough in drying, I have even tried using the soft-water out of the tap in the laundry room. even that will dry with salt left over. our water should be at about 3 grains PPM but it is around 55 Grains PPM Having said all that. I proceeded to wash my trike today and she turned out wonderful , just walk away and it will dry with no spots. but I could not help myself and had to try and dry it. what I liked is that you have till the end of time to wipe the chrome and plastic parts down with no spotting. I was so excited that I walked over and washed both our Cars as well. Guess what? NO HARD WATER SPOTS. simply walk away from the car. My other experiment that I have found and still need to try, is that you mix up a 1/2 cup of BORAX 20 Mule Team to 5 Gals of warm water and place your pressure washer siphon into the bucket, and rinse the car or bike with that. I am told that works very well also. The refiles for Mr Clean Auto Dry Car wash are kinda pricey. this item can be purchased at Walmart when in season and Target Stores and of course on-line. that is how I got mine. also do a a search and read the reviews, I think some do not follow the directions. it has its own soap as well. Just keep turning the dial. Just wanted to share this with you folks. Jeff
-
ok, so my water light keeps comming on. I've been reading back through the 1st gen forum and i've seen 3 different positions that the valve is said to need to be at. one person said that it should have off pointed at the 5 o'clock position. another pointed out 2 o'clock, and someone said off pointing to the 10 o'clock position .. anyone know for sure? i know i'm building pressure (although i don't have the tool to measure the specific amount) and my radiator is full, as well as the bottle in the fairing being over half full. so the only areas i'm not sure about are the tubes, and if the valve is letting water through. it's been cold enough that the thermostat gauge doesn't even move, so i can't tell that way.
-
I started the bike this morning for the first time this season. For the first time ever, I had the battery plugged into a battery-minder through the winter. The battery remained in the bike throughout the winter. (I have a permanent charger-connector on the battery and am able to connect the charger to it via a cable whose end is available externally.) When I turned the key I got the usual run-through of alarms on the dispaly, but the low-electrolyte alarm stayed on. I removed the cover and the electrolyte level in the sensor's cell, as well as the rest, seemed OK to me, so I removed the sensor, dipped it in a glass of water and the alarm stayed on. I think that I might have a bad sensor, but I'm not sure about that. Anyway, after determining that the battery level was OK, I put things back together, started the bike and went out for a ride. The bike started and ran beautifully. I want to have a working sensor and NOT do the resistor "mod" to eliminate the alarm, so: 1. Do these battery sensors occasionally fail? 2. Is dipping the sensor in a glass of water an adequate way to test it, or is the electrolyte part of the circuit? If so, should I just add demin water regardless of the present level in that cell? Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks. -
Does any one use that stuff. Talked to people that use it and they like it. I would think it would just rub the dust into the paint and scratch it. I like to use water and rince the bike off. I still use small amount of mild dish soap to wash my bike.
-
like a puddle of rusty water surrounding the base of your water heater with no obvious drips from the pipes, pressure relief valve, or the drain. I bet ya'll can guess what I will be doing tomorrow...
-
I've had this article hanging around for some time, so I figured I'd post it, maybe someone here is brave enough to anodize their cylinder head covers? I don't remember where I originally got it from, but I made some changes to it myself, and so far so good! Supplies Needed: The first thing to do is to get the following things together: First on the list is the most expensive item: a 6 to 12 volt battery charger. They run from $45.00 to $110.00 depending on model, functions, etc. The next item, though not that expensive, will take some effort to find: battery electrolyte, a.k.a. sulfuric acid. This should be available at a battery wholesaler for about $2.00/gal. AutoZone sells it for $5.00, but it's only enough to fill a scoot battery. To make the negative ground, you will need some aluminum ground wire and aluminum-foil. The wire can be found at an electronics store for about $35/spool, and you should have the foil in the kitchen. If you happen to be out of foil, you can pick up some more at the store when you go to buy the last item for this project. No super-special chemicals or solutions necessary to make the colors; just plain-old fabric dye. (Something like Rit dye, for about $5.00.) Rit offers something like 30-40 different colors, so you have quite a number of choices for what color you want your parts to be. If you want to go hard-core, you can order anodizing dye online. An optional item is nitric acid: about $25.00/2.5 L. (This is used to clean parts prior to anodizing, but there are some cheaper alternatives. See end notes.) This is available at chemical supply stores. Should you not be able to find any, you can try to get on the good side of the high school science teacher. He may help you out since you only need a few ounces. Safety Precautions: There are a few precautions I want to go over to help keep you from blowing up the house or trashing the garage. First of all, do not mix or store your anodizing solution in a glass container. Something could happen to make it break, and most households are not equipped to deal with that kind of spill. You also don't want to knock over the container, so a stable, rubber bucket makes a good choice. You will also need to be certain that the part you want to color will fit in the container without sticking out of the solution, and without touching the negative ground in the bottom of the container. Any acid that you don't use, keep in what it came in, or an old plastic bottle, like a bleach bottle. You can also store your used solution this way for doing more parts later. (Make sure that there is absolutely no bleach left in the bottle. Acid and bleach make chlorine gas. Very bad. Don't breathe. Poisonous.) Safety also applies to the nitric acid, but in a different way. It is imperative that you label and keep track of this stuff, as it is a stronger acid than sulfuric, and more dangerous. The breakage/spill problem is not as likely since you won't have that much around. (Unless you bought more than a few ounces from the chem store.) The last note about the acids is to mix properly when adding acid and water. Always pour acid into water, never the other way, and do so slowly, being sure to mix in well. There is a reaction taking place and it releases a lot of energy. During the anodizing process, you will be running electricity through a weak acid solution. This creates hydrogen (just like charging a battery) which is very flammable. This stuff burns at the speed of thought when ignited, so do be careful. (Read as Remember the Hindenburg?) Make certain that there is some way to ventilate the project area, and DO NOT let any sources of ignition (NO SMOKING) near the project area. Other precautions you should take include safety glasses, rubber gloves, and maybe some sort of drop sheet under the area. Preparations: One of the most essential things you need to do in order to get even color over the whole part is to be sure that the part is absolutely clean. You want it free of all contaminates, from dirt to the oils in your skin. This is where the nitric acid and some rubber gloves will help. A solution of 1-2 ounces of nitric acid in a gallon of distilled water will allow you to clean the surface in preparation for the anodizing. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly when exposed to air, so the easiest way to keep it clean is to clean it just before you are ready to start working on the piece. (You should rinse the part with distilled water before you put it in the next acid solution.) Other options are carburetor or brakes cleaners, or other similar degreasers. Soap and water will work also, or cleaners like Simple Green. These are cheaper, a nitric acid wash is the best. (You decide, it's your money.) =) Make your negative ground with the aluminum wire and foil. Shape the end of the wire into a paddle shape and cover the round part with the foil. What you want to do is create a flat, round shape to sit on the bottom of the bucket, with a lead that comes up the side, and out of the bucket. You will clip the battery charger's negative lead to the wire that comes out of the bucket. When you are ready to start, you will want to mix up your immersion solution. In your rubber bucket, combine the sulfuric acid and water to come up with a solution that is about 30% water. (1 part water to 2 parts acid.) Place the paddle in the bucket and attach the negative lead. Then attach the positive lead to the part, making it an anode, and immerse it in the solution. (Remember that the two leads the paddle (cathode), and the part (anode) should not touch.) This is the best time to turn on the charger: once the part begins to fizz, leave it in there for about 10-15 minutes. After about this time the part should no longer conduct electricity. (You can also use an ohmmeter to check conductivity, but this is not needed.) Turn off and disconnect everything, and rinse the part in cold water. Don't use hot water! You'll find out why in the next section. A couple of notes: I have read some other procedures that say it is important that the copper lead from the charger does not enter the acid solution. The article says nothing about this, and shows a picture with the lead right in there. It may take some trial and error to find out if this is a problem. It wouldn't be a bad idea to get some scrap aluminum and play with it before you start anodizing your parts. You can check out the above, as well as pick the colors you like best. If you test out some colors, you'll also learn just how long or short you need to work with the color solution. Color: So now it doesn't conduct electricity, and is ready for color. It's been rinsed and waits eagerly to change to a new look. Don't wait too long to do the color, due to that oxidizing thing again. You want to mix up a strong solution of dye and water, in a container that can be heated. The solution needs to be at low heat, such as on the stove, so bread and cake pans work well. Again, you need something that will fit the whole part, but it's okay if it touches the bottom this time. I would recommend turning parts every few minutes just to make sure that you get all-over color. Inform your mom or wife that the pan can (and will be) washed out. It is important that the heat be low enough. If the solution gets too hot, you will seal the surface, and it will no longer take any color. (See, told you to rinse it in cold water!) Leave it in the dye until the part is slightly darker than you want it. The next step is to seal the surface of the metal in clean, boiling water. This will leech a bit of color from it, thus the slightly darker color in the previous step. End Notes: Also, this process is for aluminum. I don't know how, or if, it will work on other metals. (I doubt it.) Anodizing works great on billet, not so well on castings. If it was forged or machined, it should have the density to take color through this process. Something to consider when looking for a charger, is how many amperes it puts out. Without getting into any mumbo-jumbo, anodizing relies on 10 to 40 amperes per square foot. For small brackets and such, this is no problem. The larger parts however, may need the higher levels of amperes. The other note about part size, has to do with how long you leave it in the solution. Above it said 10-15 minutes, but that is for a smaller part. The larger parts may not only need higher amperes, but more time as well. I would recommend an ohmmeter, but again, I have one already. So there you have it. Quick, fairly easy, and not too expensive. If you don't have the charger, then your first anodizing session could cost as much as sending your parts out to be done. But, then you can do it again for much less. Or do your buddies stuff. Or talk them into chipping in on a setup for all of you to use. We all know ways to help make things cheaper. And the stupid statement required to cover myself... If you try this and something gets messed up, or someone gets hurt, you are on your own. Deal with it, you can't blame it on anyone else.
-
I have my bike in my shop now and am in the process of giving it a good cleaning. I'm wondering what everyone uses to clean all of the parts that are hidden under the fairings/seat and side covers. There is a lot of dust and dirt in there. I blew out what I could with compressed air. I am reluctant to spray any water in these areas as it is mostly electrical stuff. Maybe I should just leave it alone. Ideas? Thanks JR -
Nothing like just jumping on the bike and taking off.....well.....once the water boils. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t93QlgBu4Is]YouTube- "Pete's Garage" - "1896 Steam Motorcycle"[/ame]
-
Bought a pair of water bottle holders off ebay for $50 for the pair.. I kept one and gave my brother in-law the other one. I just got it installed today. Removed all of the original snaps, some cutting and trimming and installed the new snaps. Easy reach and it does not clutter up the handle bars being on the saddle bag guard. Now if the snow would just melt....................
-
First off, Happy New Years everyone! Hope to get a chance to ride more this year with ya!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Been having an issue since Biketoberfest with slow leaks in both tires. Running Avon Venoms, maybe 8k on them. tires seem to be in ok shape and have bunches of tread on them. I'd like to think they have plenty of miles left. Went down, filled both to specs and sprayed some soapy water on them. Both of them are leaking badly on both sides of the rims???????????????? I've removed both and hope to get them to the stealer tomorrow to have them busted down and hopefuly resealed. Is this wishful thinking or do I need new tires or worse new rims??????????????????????????
-
any one used this,have had to replace water pumps on three of my veh this last yr
-
The fountain of youth...lol!!! http://www.flixxy.com/evian-roller-babies.htm
-
I just recently bought a 1989 Venture Royale and a day ago I noticed a small wet spot under the bike about as far back as the highway pegs. It was so small, I really didn't take time to investigate. But after leaving my bike parked for two cold days at my G/F in Chicago (near freezing temperatures) I noticed that the spot was about 6-8 inches in dia. and appeared to be water... Anyone know where I may get down and look for the source? Water pump seal? Radiator Hose connection? I have no idea. Thank you in advance for your input. I need it. Sunrayman
-
Every now and then I see someone mention about how to make your tires look good. Well, DO NOT use Armorall or anything resembling it, because that can cause major problems when leaning in a curve. Now, back in the OLD DAYS... We didn't have any of the fancy stuff they have now. What we used was 'sugar water'... Just mix a cup of sugar in a quart of warm water, stir ir until it disolves. Then take a rag and soak it with the water, ring it out slightly, and rub the tire with it. Your tire will look better than brand new after it dries. Now, I don't know how many bees it will attract, it depends on where you live....
-
Prevent Swine Flu - Good Advice Dr. Vinay Goyal is an MBBS,DRM,DNB (Intensivist and Thyroid specialist) having clinical experience of over 20 years. He has worked in institutions like Hinduja Hospital, Bombay Hospital, Saifee Hospital, Tata Memorial etc. Presently, he is heading our Nuclear Medicine Department and Thyroid clinic at Riddhivinayak Cardiac and Critical Centre, Malad (W). The following message given by him, I feel makes a lot of sense and is important for all to know. The only portals of entry are the nostrils and mouth/throat. In a global epidemic of this nature, it's almost impossible to avoid coming into contact with H1N1 in spite of all precautions. Contact with H1N1 is not so much of a problem as proliferation is. While you are still healthy and not showing any symptoms of H1N1 infection, in order to prevent proliferation, aggravation of symptoms and development of secondary infections, some very simple steps, not fully highlighted in most official communications, can be practiced (instead of focusing on how to stock N95 or Tamiflu): 1. Frequent hand-washing (well highlighted in all official communications). 2. "Hands-off-the-face" approach. Resist all temptations to touch any part of face (unless you want to eat, bathe or slap). 3. *Gargle twice a day with warm salt water (try to use sea salt, not idodized table salt - about 1 teaspoon in a large glass of warm water, or use Liserine). *H1N1 takes 2-3 days after initial infection in the throat/ nasal cavity to proliferate and show characteristic symptoms. Simple gargling prevents proliferation. In a way, gargling with salt water has the same effect on a healthy individual that Tamiflu has on an infected one. Don't underestimate this simple, inexpensive and powerful preventative method. 4. Similar to 3 above, *clean your nostrils at least once every day with warm salt water. *Not everybody may be good at Jala Neti or Sutra Neti (very good Yoga asanas to clean nasal cavities), but *blowing the nose hard once a day and swabbing both nostrils with cotton buds dipped in warm salt water is very effective in bringing down viral population.* 5. *Boost your natural immunity with foods that are rich in Vitamin C (Amla and other citrus fruits). *If you have to supplement with Vitamin C tablets, make sure that it also has Zinc to boost absorption. 6. *Drink as much of warm liquids (tea, coffee, etc.; especially WATER) as you can. *Drinking warm liquids has the same effect as gargling, but in the reverse direction. They wash off proliferating viruses from the throat into the stomach where they cannot survive, proliferate or do any harm. I suggest you pass this on to your entire e-list. You never know who might pay attention to it - and STAY ALIVE because of it. A 15 year-old near here died
-
I've been reading about this story for a bit and I know we have folks that were Marines. So I thought this might be pertinent to them. Seems that Camp Lejeune here in NC had some water problems. There is a group that have come up with some health problems which they attribute to the toxic water they were exposed to. This is there website. It's going before the Senate here shortly and there is a bill where the Senator from NC is trying to get VA benefits for former Marines and their families due to this. The water seems to have been cleaned up now. Just thought I'd pass this on in case we have anyone that may have been affected and need to know where to go. http://www.tftptf.com/ Margaret
-
I rode last Thursday 350 miles from Fairfield in SE Iowa to Minneapolis MN. The temps were i the upper 40s to lower 50s the whole time and it rained from start to finish. I discovered that my rain suit had disguised tears in the crotch so I ended up sitting in water the entire time. Despite this my Widder liner and gloves kept me warm the entire trip. I am a big fan of good electric gear now. I should really enjoy it when my new Frogg Toggs come in the mail. Then I will really feel like I am ready for the weather. BTW, does anyone have a recommendation for water proof glove covers for the Widder heated gloves? Iowa Guy
-
Ok and plumber's out there? I have a hot water heater that is 4 years old. Its a 2 element unit. that is not heating. I have checked and the breaker is Ok and I have 120 volts on both sides of each element. I have replaced the upper element ( I was told this is the heating element and the bottom element was for keeping the water warm.) I turned up both thermostats to max and still no heat. any suggestions ?????? Cold showers were great when you were 16 but not so good when your 60 LOL
-
Well my as-is project continues, what started out as a simple dragging starter repair has now turned into a water pump overhaul as I found oil in the water. I have a couple questions that I couldn't find answers to in the Tech. talk. How much slack is there supposed to be in the plastic gear that runs the pump, where mine sits on the pin there is noticable slack, is that normal? How many other places are there where oil can get into the water besides the head gaskets and which are the most likely? My trike has 44,800 miles on it. Also I did find a crack in the water seal, hard to believe oil can get into the water through that hair line crack. As usual any help is appreciated.
.thumb.jpg.176b2ebbe9863175975d94710375c414.jpg)
