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Showing results for tags 'stator'.
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I think I'm in dire need of a new stator. Can someone point me in the right direction. I know some time ago, there was talk of a beefed up stator on the market, but cannot find the thread. My current output is 12.57 volts, but I cannot live on the battery alone for long. Joe (Saddle_Bag)
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Well my odometer just passed the 100K mark last night... I bought my 03 in June 05 with 10K on it on ebay for $8500... It had been dropped and I had to do some work to it but was very rideable and only cosmetic damage.. The only out of pocket repairs were a Stator which I replaced with the Buckeye Performance Higher output stator which works fine powering my 55W Passing Lamps... A Clutch which I replaced with a Barnett Pressure Plate and new factory discs.. The Barnet has a little stiffer pull which you really don't notice after a while until you ride your Buddy's stock RSV and sometimes it can take some doing to find neutral but I would buy another Barnett in a heartbeat.. I also had to replace a coil in TX which would have been a warranty item had I known going in that it was the coil but Yamaha had the coil backordered at the time and I was down there working... The Independent shop hooked me up with a used V-Star coil and it's been in there since... I had the valves adjusted at 60K and the mechanic (Yamaha Dealer) was kinda sketchy on how they were. I replaced the original still working battery in 07 cuz I was doing a long trip and I never had a battery last 4 years before so I didn't take any chances.. Warranty repairs: Rear Shock, Ignition Switch, and CB Antennae which the dealer ordered the FM Antennae so I have to radio Antennaes which don't bother me cuz I only listen to the CB occasionally.. Usually to find out why traffics backed up.. I don't own a headset so my Ratchetjawing days are over... That's about it except 3 sets of brakes and a whole bunch of synthetic oil and tires... All in all this has been the best bike I have ever owned and I've got the most bang for my buck... I hope it goes another 100K..
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Need your help! Did a preventative stator change on my 89 VR getting ready for a 3000+ mile trip since the original stator had almost 60k miles on it and I run a lot of extra lights. Installed the new stator (high output) in under two hours and was feeling really good about it until I got back from a 30 minute ride and had oil dripping from the kickstand. The leak has definitively been isolated to the bottom most seam of the side cover (between the rearmost two bottom bolts) and is making a real mess. Have changed the gasket now 3 times... once without sealant and twice more with two different types of sealant (yamalube, RTV gasket sealer) applied with no luck. There are no cracks, scratches or dings, and both the side cover and case look square with a straight edge applied. This bike was tight and dry until the cases were split... and as an old aircraft mechanic leaks drive me CRAZY! Thinking about double gasketing... any other ideas? Thanks in advance for your help!
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Does anyone know if it is possible to test the stator without removing the sidecover or draining the oil? I know that one can test it by starting the bike and checking the voltage at the battery, but what I do not know is if this is a conclusive test for determining whether the stator is functioning properly. Thanks in advance. -
I know that the service manual states on page 8-24 that the stator coil resistance ought to be between 0.279 and 0.341 ohms. Has anyone actually taken this measurement (excluding the run to pin 4 - since that seems to be a typo)? If so, what did you end up with? I am currently trying to troubleshoot my scoot and have already done the voltage check at the battery (which the scoot clearly passed). I have taken this measurement, but the resolution of the meter that I used is only 0.1 ohms, and I do not know for sure what the accuracy of the meter is nor what the TRUE range of this meter is... I have a better one at my office, which I will pick up when I go in next time to redo this measurement. The goal here is to verify that the stator is good/not good before I install and possibly ruin a new radio and/or not waste the money and time on a new stator if it is not necessary. Thanks in advance!
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Wondering if anyone else has had problems with pre-mature H.O. RM Stator failures. Attached pics are of RM Stator installed less than 9 months ago (~10k miles). No warning on the failure... all systems go until voltage dropped to 12V during a PGR ride. Coil resistance measured .1-.3 across the three output wires. [ATTACH]33833[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]33835[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]33834[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]33832[/ATTACH]
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After riding, well idling through steel horse alley at the Bike time Rally this weekend about 30 times, I noticed something. My volt gauge is bouncing from 12V to normal from time to time. when I get on the open road at 35+mph it seems fine at a full charge. Did I overheat my Stator by idling the bike for about 6 hours while trying to get through the traffic and people that act surprised when a bike wants to get through at a bike rally and dont get out of the way. Temps were in the mid 70's bike never overheated, the fan came on a lot.
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Can someone please tell me if a stator for a 1991 royale would work for a 1986 royale? Thank you
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Which stator upgrade is the best ? Websites for the stators ? thanks
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Recent findings 1. They will make noise at low rpm and high electrical loads. Lights, radio, aux's "On" 2. Stators may appear to be ok visably but still bad. 3. If they are black on 1/3 to 2/3rds of the coils they are probably burnt out or going out. 4. The ohm reading (2.4) maybe OK as stated in the service manual but they still will not generated electricity. 5. The regulator/rectifier is probably more reliable than the stator. It has cooling fins and is in cooling air. 6. Make sure you reinstall the starter gears correctly, watch how they came out. 7. Have an extra stator cover gasket in case yours gets torn. Silicone RTV is not needed. 8. Make sure the gear selector arm is in the up position behind the cover before reinstalling. Use both washers, don't loose the circle clip. 9. You must remove the middle gear cover to get the stator cover off. 10. Look for leaks at the gear selector electrical switch, the clutch push rod and gear selector shaft seal while your in there. 11. Make sure all wires are covered, taped and will not get pinched when either cover is reinstalled. 12.At idle the voltmeter should not drop down to 12.0 volts unless the fan is on. It does have high current draw. Yes I've done it all wrong and had remove the stator cover 6-8 times now!!
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With only 22k miles my 84 needs a stator. Anyone got a good used one or where I can get the best price for new one. And yes it is fried. New battery, good connections thruout. When I did 2nd gear it was black on one side. I have a spare regulator-rectifier and it does the same, no charge. Just hoping then.... Thanks -
I have removed the stator cover just to reseal the two rubber gromets (stator and pickup coils) that from time to time (huh) leak. For those of you that have had to (for whatever reason) remove the stator cover, what is the best, and I do mean best, sealer to use on those pesky gromets? Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Ok.....here I am again. In the middle of attempting to install Buckeyes upgrade stator. In pretty good shape so far. All the bolts came out fine from the cases and the only bolts that gave me grief were the retaining clip bolts on the wiring harness for the stator and the pick up coil on the inside of the case. Got that done. God Bless Dremel! The old stator tested fine and all the leads test equal volts but the top of the stator is black and melted. Good time for the change. While I'm in there I want to take a look at the starter engage clutch and install the stator cooling kit. I was surprised it didn't have one but I had one on the self. So with that said here is where I'm at. THE BOLT! The 19mm rotor bolt is one tough cookie. Been at it for a 1/2 hour working on it with a 1/2 drive impact wrench. Added a little heat, not much, with a propane torch and still no movement. I'm open for suggestion here. How hot can I go or should I? I really want to get to the starter clutch and get the cooling kit installed but I got to get past this danged bolt. Thanks Mike -
Ok here goes. The 86 VR I just brought home a few days back has a minor oil leak. Minor; but still a leak and leaks can get worse. The leak is somewhere in behind and between the stator cover and the main gear cover. Isnt the stator gromet and isn't the main gear cover gasket; somewhere further in I believe. What is back in there that can leak oil? Can the slave cylinder leak oil; clutch rod???? Any help and/or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks -
I got to ask. I just finished up installing an upgrade stator. I remembered all the chatter about the crush washer on the 6 o'clock bolt on the stator cover. When I started to open the old girl up I had drained the oil and decided to pull both the 6 o'clock bolts on the stator cover and the secondary cover. Loosened them up and got nothing. Not a drop of oil. When I pulled the bolts there were no crush washers on either one of them. The only bolt that had a crush on it was the 8 o'clock bolt on the secondary cover. Weird place for it I thought. None the less no leaks ever on this bike. Not a drop. Now I'm getting ready to close her back up and I'm wondering if I should put washers on the two lower bolts to be safe. Are these actually supposed to be a reserve drain as I didn't see any kind of path for it when I opened it up. Just wondering.
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Went to start my 93 Venture Royale to ride home from work the other day and weak battery. Didn't start and had to boost. Noticed comming home gauge showed right on 12 and seems to me it use to be a little higher. Had to get gas after about 10 mi. and it started right back up. Got home went to testing. Battery showed 12.07v, stator output showed 7.04-7.25ac to ground on all 3 connections @ 3 wire plug. I charged the battery and now shows 12.30 not running and 12.50 running idle @ 700rpm. If I rev to 2500rpm I,m getting close to 13v. I have a pair of driving lights I added a couple of years ago and noticed when I shut them off I pick up about .25- .40v. They are 50 watts each. I had not had any problem at all, before this so I think the lights are ok, and I just got back from a 500mi trip 2 days earlier. I had the battery tested and it showed good-low charge before I charged it. From what I'm seeing on here the stator should be putting out more. And if I understood correctly I'm suppose to test the stator between the connections not to ground??? I'm wondering if the stator is weak, the lights are to much, idle too low (should be 1000rpm?), or something else altogether. Sorry so long here I tried to tell all I know and if anyone can shed more light here I'd appreciate it.
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I noticed today when I stopped to talk with a friend and started the bike back up it didn't spin the engine like it usually does. I then noticed that it wasn't charging like it usually does. When I left his house the bike immediately started charging the way it always does and did so all the way home till I went to put it in the garage, and then it started doing the same thing again, not charging the way it always did before. I just read the stator post and am wondering if it could be the connection that goes into the voltage regulator, or is this a symptom of the stator going out. I replaced one stator on a Suzuki Cavalcade, was not a fun job. Louie -
I got a question and I hope its not a stupid question. I have never had a bike with a voltmeter on it before so I dont know if this is normal or not. When i have the turn signal on is it normal for the volt meter to go up and down ever so slightly? How about when the brake light is on i notice the volt meter go down a volt or two. Is this normal for these bikes or does this indicate I have a stator about to go out?
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I have an 89 Venture, and replaced the stator last year. I must admit this stator never indicated as high a charging as the old one did. However, these guages are not noted for being really accurate. However, how is it possible to have the voltmeter indicate less than or equal to 12 volts, for 40 km. I shut the bike down for 1/2 hour. I had barely enough to turn bike over to start and then on return trip it indicates charging ie about 13.5 volts. I even had a short trip 0f 40 km one way, where it indicated 12 or less, and then gradually worked up to over 12 volts after about 30 km. I note that if I put on running lights (2x35 watt) they really knock it down...but for all the above the only electrical items were Cb, radio and cruise control. I thought that the stator either worked or didn't, battery the same. So I am thinking poor conection somewhere (note I did remove conectors when installing new stator and directly soldered), or is it possible the regulator can do this intermittent thing? I am lost on this one. Perhaps some of the electrical gurus have ideas? Thanks.
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Well I did it; I installed my new stator from Buckeye. It took me a day and a half, due to the fact that I had to remove the battery and battery box just to get to the stupid stator wire assembly and re-rout it. I completed it late this morning and checked the battery output to make sure I was getting a proper charge. I took it out today for a 50 mile ride, for a good shake down. I also have the vmax rear end gears and I really love the performance upgrade that they have given me. I give a great thumbs up to "Buckeye Performance" and to Blue Ridge Sport Max", for the information and the great parts.
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Hi Everyone, did some searching first but didn't find the answer so here I am. Opened up my repair manual and everything I've read out here said the same thing. The stator plug (3 wht wires) is behind the engine left side, manual said it was behind the side cover. It ain't there. I've looked just about everywhere I can look, got parts scattered and still no plug. Any thoughts? I'm thinking I've got a rectifier problem, I'm reading high voltage (about 17)at the battery, although it is new (Odessey and it came fully charged according to their specs) and it might possibly be charging up. I just want to check the stator windings too.
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Hi All, Well, winter has a firm lock here in Newfoundland, and my VR will be sleeping for another 2 - 3 months yet, but I've gotta start thinking about the spring, so I have two questions 1. I want to upgrade my battery cables from stock before the next season... anyone know when I can get the heavier cables now? That slow engine crank really makes me nervous sometimes! 2. I replaced my stator last year, and I know I didn't seal that stator wire up as good as it should have been. It was seeping oil all fall. I read somewhere about a sealant - I think from Yamaha - that could be used. I don't want to be dripping oil next summer, those Harley guys think it's funny! Thanks in Advance! -
ok....installed the venture running lights (07).....hooked up my heated gloves,vest, pants.....rode for about an hour....discharged battery......( yes, system is charging correctly)... i know of only one co. that has an upgrade stator...has anyone done this upgrade and have you had any problems...is this the only co. do i have to worry about hurting the stock rectfier, wires etc. ? how easy an install is it..... thanks
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Just wondering if anyone has a 1st generation charging stator that is burned up that I might be able to talk you out of? I have some ideas that I want to experiment with and I need an old burned up/damaged stator
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After spending a good deal of my summer trying to figure out why my VR wasn't charging, and now that the riding season is over, I finally got her to charge properly again. I should have gone with what my first gut instinct told me and replaced the stator right from the start. I went through a flow chart I found somewhere on here to try and figure out where the problem was before tearing into the engine. I had stripped it down to the frame and pulled all the wiring to check and clean all the connections. I cut out the connector and hardwired the stator to the rectifier. But according to everything in the flowchart, the stator and rectifier were both fine and the problem had to be somewhere in the wiring. I finally cut the connections between the stator and rectifier and tested the stator again. The stator was definately the problem. Unless I'm illiterate or something, nowhere in the flowchart did it tell me that I needed to disconnect anything before testing it. My gut was telling me to do one thing but the books and flowcharts seemed to be telling be something else. I've worked on cages all my life but seldomly ever on bikes, so I was trying to follow the books as closely as possible. I realize noe that I've got it fixed that of course I would get false reading with everything plugged in. The power from the battery would feed back through all the wires and give me the false readings. I guess the books and such took it for cranted that I would just know to unplug things first. But then there are alot of things you have to leave plugged in to get an accurate reading. How was I to know? So to make a long story short, unplug the stator and rectifier before you test them in order to get an accurate reading.
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