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Showing results for tags 'shock'.
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The error codes on the compressor for a 86 , e4,e2, what do they mean? I heard the guys talking about how the rear shock could just be a regular shock and wondered where to look and what to read up on for anyone doing this? I think the computer is the issue with my loss of air.
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So I am pulling the rear wheel for a tire change and once the wheel is off I am checking the swing arm, shock etc. WHen I pick up on the swing arm, there is up and down slop where the bolt goes through the top shock mount. Bolt is tight, its like the mount hole in the shock is too large. I would figure this to be a near zero tolerance fit where the bolt passes through. Sufficient slop that you can make impact noise with it if you push up and down slightly on the swing arm. Amounts to about 1/8 inch movement up and down at the axle just from the slop in the bolt. Anyone else seen this before? OEM shock 22,000 miles. There is also oil on the bottom of the bellows. Still holds air and no excessive bouncing I can tell, but likely not long for this world. Thanks, RSTDdog
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Has anyone ever replaced the oil in the rear shock? Is it possible? I hope to improve the ride for the remainder of the year. My shock is getting tired and seems to be leaking air. Did the entire lead test and found no bubbles anywhere.
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Went on a 50 mile ride with the wife today. I set the front at 7lbs (I have progressives) and 42 in the rear. On the highway, which was pretty bumpy, it felt like the rear shock was bottoming out. I have the damper set normally at position 3. Now the bags are on but basically empty. The wife & I weigh a total of 345 Lbs and I had a 1/2 a tank of gas. The system is holding pressure & not leaking. On flat ground I don't feel an issue only when I hit bumps & not massive potholes either. So is this a normal feel? Even though the shock has air could it be worn out? The bike oly has 15K miles -
I'm a member at the RoadStarClinic.com and they have a few guys that have successfully installed a hydraulically adjustable shock assembly from a GL1800 (Goldwing). There are a couple of minor mods to make it fit the RS like drilling another hole in a bracket on one end and changing bushings in the other but it works great. Without measurements I can't say it would work on the 2nd Gens but from what I see, it should. I've put 2 links below that go to 2 different threads that should have enough info between the two including the wiring how-to. I also posted a pic of the GL1800 shock and hydraulic actuator after the mods. What I find funny is that they talk about how expensive the GL1800 shock units have become to buy them used on ebay. When I went to look the highest price was $125. Anyway, this is just info in case someone wants to give it a try when their shock takes a dump on them. Link to thread Another thread http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s320x320/577896_3423724624406_1008938154_32461466_1097849736_n.jpg -
The rear shock finally died on my 99 Venture. So has anyone bought one recently and if you did I'd like some input on what to purchase and how much money I can expect to pay. Thanks.
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So Im replacing my swing arm shock mount on my 1990 I couldnt find a 90+ but I bought one from an 86 . I know there are differences with no zerk fittings on 86 but the shock mount is definitely different. The 90 has two set of bolt near the shock mount the 86 has one. Does anyone know if this will work? -
Two weeks commuting with a blown rear shock. Motion sickness pills............... $4.00 New shock with shipping......... $460.00 The new found ability to ride a mechanical bull.......... Priceless.
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After 2 years I found the saddlebags guard bars for the RS 97, and i got them. (Yes I paid at least 100$ over the price since it is not on the market anymore...). I finished to put it, and I didn't realize that one of the upper plates is not on the same positition regarding the saddlebag than the other one. After I runned the bike yesterday, it seems that my rear shock is not longer working now. Did somebody had been on the same situation any time? I'll correct that now, but I wonder if due to the lateral force the shock is not on perfect line and that is enough to stop working. Or when I put the lower plates, and release each one of the two bolts that holds the frame on each lower side (One at the time) that some way released the shock and now is totally loose, and this is the real reason for the shock not working anymore since it is loose. Thanks for any advise on this. :sick::sick::sick:
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OK, we all know that all of the model year Gen2 Ventures are pretty much the same. well, I'm fixin' to buy a new ignition switch and a new factory shock. Mine have both gone almost totally, splooey. Yes, I know there are probably better aftermarket units out there (Works, Hagon) but I feel that I need the adjustability that the factory air preload shock offers, so that's what I'm buying. Partshark has the lowest price that I've found, but. I'm finding two part numbers and two different prices. The Partshark diagram shows no vent hose before 2005. Those shocks show a price of $512.84. 2005 and after show the vent hose and a price of $434.50. Now to confuse things worse, one of the years showing the older part number, more expensive shock shows the newer part number at the higher price of the older part number shock. So, the question is....is there a difference between these two shocks and/or price. I don't think there is, and I'm thinking that Partshark has just listed the new updated part number with a wrong price. Why would the older non-vented style shock (if they even make that version any longer) be more expersive than the newer vented style?
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Rear shock on my 88 is not holding pressure
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Just bought an 88 and found the rear shock will not hold pressure. Is there a rebuild option or fix for this problem? If not is anyone parting out a bike or anyone that would have an extra they might let go. The price for the bike was to good to be true, i should have known:depressed: I have already rebuild front shocks and replaced one anti-dive module. Just found out the new replacements from progressive is ~$400. This is much more than I had budgeted to get the bike on the road. Any help is much appericated -
So I had a leaky stock shock on my '09 RSTD. I did some research and opted for the YSS from EPM Performance. One surprise about the shock is that it is made in Thailand. I don't think that matters much in todays day and age. The machine tooling in Asian countries is as good if not better than in the US. China still has issues with specifications and stuff. Taiwan is a powerhouse in machine tooling that started with their bicycle industry. Not sure of Thailand but this shock is a very well made aluminum piece. Very pretty bike porn. I filled out the information from the website and got an e-mail from Klaus Huenecke the next morning. I called them and placed my order Jan. 16. I was quoted 2-3 weeks for the shock, but I ended up getting it in March. This was not that big of a deal as I have been swamped with other projects in the first couple of months of the year. Here is the photo that Klaus sent me of the shock when I ordered: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7205/6887486880_efa82f3026_b.jpg Here is the shock as received by me: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7251/7033581199_0300d3a992_b.jpg If I am not riding, the next best thing is working on the bike in the garage on a nice day. My house faces north so I think it is the perfect place to work: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7241/7033597743_3514120497_b.jpg I did not want to take the rear wheel off so I figured I would go thru the battery box and change the BikeMaster TruGel with a Deka. I took the battery box out as well as the passenger floor boards on each side and the side covers. I realize now I did not get a good shot of that. That shock sure is tucked down in there pretty good: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7192/6887488318_a1f4ecb868_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7265/7033586793_c1469fd67a_b.jpg When I first started motorcycling I purchased this bike jack from Kawasaki. Very handy when you want fine control lifting the bike up. You still have to lie on the floor, but it is perfect for unloading the shock: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7280/7033587875_ab1f8dec3d_b.jpg Some other people have written that you don't have to take off both floorboards to do this, but I am glad I did because you can really get in there and work and see what you are doing. Another set of hands would have been good to hold the back side nut when loosening the bolt on the shock and the dog bone, but it was nothing strategic use of a 2X4 and a box end wrench could not handle. Since I was laying the ground the hardest part was getting the vent hose released, I was on the left side and should of got up to undo it on the right side: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6887495050_98ac4cb53c_b.jpg Here is the new versus the old. Very nice piece of kit is the new one: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7103/7033589763_a8f55435e4_b.jpg The YSS came with 2 washers that there are no instructions as to where they go. There was some play in the bottom clevis so I put them on the inside of it. Unfortunately the Billet clevis is wider than the stamped steel original and the bolt does not quite get full engagement. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7041/6887506104_c6f16530ed_b.jpg bad pic that does not quite show the lack of full engagement of the nut. I'll keep an eye on it and maybe talk to the bolt supply guy at work and get a longer one if it seems to be a problem. When I bought the longer dog bones for the rear, they came with new bolts. For $499.00 I wish it would have been all inclusive of all the parts you need. Also the instructions it comes with are generic and not specific to the bike. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/7033603105_a7dab270ef_b.jpg Here is a pic that shows accessing the nut on the top bolt. The bolt head has a capture device so you only need one socket to remove it: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7089/7033598581_363648a59e_b.jpg Here is another pic that shows the lack of full engagement on the bottom bolt. Unfortunately there is a dearth of places to get large metric bolts like this. I'll have to measure it and get a longer one from Bolt Depot perhaps. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7084/6887508424_c64620c0ba_b.jpg by sadicarnot, on Flickr
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It looks like the dreaded pogo effect has started. The rear shock will hold air but the damping is going. Unfortunately the warranty ended last October so I'm on my own. I hate to drop $600 on new one but I don't trust something used from eBay for something like this. Does anyone know of a viable alternative or am I pretty much stuck on this? Can't complain too much though, I have 90k on the bike so it's not like I didn't get any use out of it?
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I don't think any air is getting to the shock. When try to set the air pressure on the class controller to medium for the rear shock the pump runs for a few seconds the display shows 43 psi. But when I turn off the key and then back on and check the rear pressure it shows 0 psi. If I try the high setting the pump runs until it shows 71 psi. but the bike does not raise. It all seems to be working fine with no errors. I would think that if the rear shock was bad it would not build pressure as quickly as it does. Any help would be great. Thanks.
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Anyone still have their rear shock leftover from your conversion? I'm looking for one.
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Replaced my rear shock today took about 90 mins (gotta love air tools) figured out a couple of things and thought I would share. I did not remove the rear tire I did everything through the sides. 1. If you put a quarter inch shim between the Carbon One adapter and the frame it gives you plenty of clearance to pull out the leveling links bolt. 2. Needle nose vice grips are great for pulling out the top bolt and putting it back in. 3. A floor jack under the rear tire will give you control of the tension and makes it real easy to slide the bolts back in. -
Has anyone looked at a Goldwing shock as a possilbe fit? Seen a pic of one they LOOK alot alike.
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Klaus from YSS just e-mailed me with a oppurtuniy for someone the e-mail is below, just wished I lived closer and I would jump on it. Joe, the inquiries and orders for this shock are getting more and more, but I never had a chance to test one on a bike, or to have a bike in the shop to see whether we can offer remote pre-load adjusters or other model shock with compression damping. Do you know of a list member in NJ possibly in the center of the state around Freehold who would be interested in a deal for letting me have the bike over a weekend or so to do some tests. If not, can you put an info out on the forum to let them know that I am looking for a Royal Venture in my area and the owner could contact me at 732-786-9777 or email me at sales#yssusa.com
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Okay guys, I come here during my coffee break and frustration break. I have the top bolt out, I have the bike on jack stands and all the weight off the rear shock. I cannot get the bottom bolt/pin to turn. I have liquid wrenched the entire area, short of getting the heat on it, does anyone have an idea before I get out the BFH and start swinging? Which isn't always a bad idea, but hopefully there is a better way.
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Called Dave Quin Motorcycles and ordered the hagon shock product ID HA M62097U with 300 KG spring. $464.00 plus 17.70 shipping gave him rider 220, pass 180, 20lbs each bag and 20 lbs in trunk. It is an 06 RSV with 81K on the clock and the second factory shock just went. took about 3 weeks to get. As suggested in some of the write ups, I cross tied the bike to plumb then remover passenger foot rest on right side and the plastic underneath. loosened top and bottom bolts then raised on jack stand to rear wheel just off floor. whole job took less than an hour. did the test ride, I think it will be just fine, It's as sport as an RSV gets solo and perfect 2 up. The adjustments on the shock are just as the factory set it, That is red spring all the way to the top (loose). I think it's a winner
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Well here goes. I have been stranded several times in the past by batteries and don't necessarily mind buying a new one before it is needed. I bought my '09 RSTD in June of '10 and it came with a BikeMaster TruGel battery. I was looking to maybe get a Shorai, but they are so dang expensive. I ended up getting a YSS Shock and decided it would be a good time now to change the battery as the shock is easier to get to thru the battery compartment. I was going to get an Odyssey but I never did like how the posts are and it is usually a PITA to get the wires to be just right. I looked at some of the posts on this site and saw good info on the Deka, and considering the price ($90.95 to my door) decided to pull the trigger on an ETX20L from Bohannon Battery. I phoned them Wednesday and since they and I are both in Florida I got the battery on Thursday via USPS. The battery is very well packed with styrofoam: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7065/6885911518_6bd0bbb4ff_b.jpg The battery case on first inspection looks to be very well made and very sturdy: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/6885917970_5de955993c_b.jpg I like the posts; they look easier to deal with than the captured nut style on other brands and screw hole found on the Odyssey. I am not sure what the post material is, you will have to be careful not to strip them when they are tightened: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7240/7032017739_abe90d43ff_b.jpg The battery includes 2 bolts and copper washers. Deka has a very elagent solution to include the screws: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7253/7032016931_89f0fa3849_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7265/7032015837_b003a8c803_b.jpg Here is the Bike Master TruGel in my RSTD: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7075/7032018807_87a524119a_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7131/7032020597_9a5c264e65_b.jpg I never liked the case on the TruGel. It seems to be cheap and toy like and very plasticy, more plasticy than a plastic battery case should be like. Side by side I think the Deka has a much better, and more industrial construction feel to it: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7111/6885925022_f08531ea0c_b.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7121/7032023643_0f69efa292_b.jpg Alright, well let the flames begin. I took the battery and shock out last night. Going to put it all back together today. I will post a separate post on the shock.
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Here's an inexpensive tool I just found at Walmart and used to add lubricant to my RSV's rear shock. It's called The MixMizer produced by FloTool and designed to assist with mixing the proper ratio of oil with gasoline for two cycle engines. At my local Walmart it was stocked in the automotive department near the oil funnels. I found it the perfect device for adding lubricant to the rear shock. As Rick Butler describes in his very informative thread about the OEM rear shock, "Understanding Your RSV Rear Shock", http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2220, I removed the Schrader valve and used the syringe and the included 4 inch extension tube to inject two ounces of lubricant. It worked perfectly for this task without spilling a drop of fluid. Here's what to look for, -
My RSTD started groaning from the rear end. I replaced the tires back in November and thought I put enough grease on all the rear end components. Very surprised that it is groaning all things considered. Anyway I have a YSS shock coming so I think I will go ahead and replace it by removing the rear wheel route.
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Hi guys, Happy New Year.. what better way to spend the evening than in the garage working on the bikes eh? (gosh I need to get a life!!) My new shiny WORKS Performance shock finally arrived today and wow, it's real purty! Almost too purty to mount it under a bike. Its all preloaded and ready to go. Though I'm mechanically inclined and have all the tools to install this shock, is there something out of the ordinary or 'don't forget to do this' notes I should do to install this shock properly and such? Oops, just read through the manual and looks like i have to pull the rear wheel, bags, fender and pipes to change the shock?! Ouch.. is this true? Thanks in advance for any advice or comments Cheers
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Got to use my Christmas present for the 1st time. Borrowed a Carbon_One adapter from a member here in town. Swapped out my rear shock this afternoon. Haven't ridden it yet, but seems the bounce is gone.
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